Lee 4 20 pot adjuster screw doesn't stay in pintle groove

[Advil]

My new Lee pot has only gone a few sessions and the adjuster screw that has the head which engages the pintle rod wobbles in its threads just enough that it will frequently slip out and allow the pintle rod to jam open, making it a mess to get the screw re-engaged wile it pours lead everywhere.

I honestly have been very delicate with it. The screw head to valve rod engagement has been iffy from day one.

Assuming there is some kind of fix or rebuild that will allow better adjustment of flow?

I could try to put a washer on it that is just a touch bigger than the screw head... but the screw will still wobble in the threads.

I read one post where someone peened down the valve and just redrilled to 3/32 to fix the flow to one reasonable rate and just set it to wide open with no adjustment?

Other ideas?

[RydForLyf]

Call Lee

[Frozone]

Grasp the sheet metal piece close to the adjuster screw, opposite the rod and gently bend it upwards slightly.
That will move the too pieces closer together.

While you can use a constant orifice to control the flow, the amount will vary considerably from a full pot to an empty one.
Diferent mold like a different flow rate.
All in All I think the constant orifice is an Incredibly BAD idea.

[mdi]

I used a piece of stainless steel "safety wire" to keep the screw head in the slot of the valve rod. My pot is put away until the next session so a pic ain't handy, but, the wire is fairly small in diameter, 18 or 20 ga. and I just looped it around the valve rod and screw body and twisted the ends together the keep the screw and rod together. A piece of bare copper wire will work too, doesn't need to be tight, just enough to remove slop.

[geargnasher]

Grasp the sheet metal piece close to the adjuster screw, opposite the rod and gently bend it upwards slightly.
That will move the too pieces closer together.

While you can use a constant orifice to control the flow, the amount will vary considerably from a full pot to an empty one.
Diferent mold like a different flow rate.
All in All I think the constant orifice is an Incredibly BAD idea.

I peened my spout some, but still use the flow adjustment. This makes the last 1/4 of the pot useless because it won't flow fast enough to keep from rounding the bases of the boolits in just about any mould. However, it solved the problems related to the first half of the pot, where it was either dribble or flood. Relying on a fixed orifice will only lead to frustration.

Advil, I'd call Lee and ask them to send you some new pieces.

Gear

[Advil]

They're sending a new valve arm assembly and flow screw. Hopefully that will get things lined up better.

I will try the wire for the next few days, and maybe another fix I have in mind to control the valve adjustment.

BTW - Lee was great to talk to and is really great about sending out parts.