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View Full Version : Boolit Mold From HELL!!!



Alan in Vermont
06-10-2012, 04:12 PM
I used to campaign a couple 357 Herrett Contender barrels in IHMSA. Primary fodder, at that time, was 200 gr Hornadys. Keep in mind that this goes back to the early 1980s. At that time I was casting for my 44 and 357 revolvers as well as a 7mm TCU, for the Contender, but not for the Herrett. I've still got the 10" Herrett bbl. but the 14" is long since traded away.

When I started getting back into casting a few months ago I found a Lyman 358315 in my collection. It has had the GC shank machined out, very nicely done, BTW. You can "see" where it used to be but can't feel it, either in the mold or on bullets cast from the mold.

I have no idea where I got it but I'm leaning towards a gun show purchase. There was a small sticky tag in the bottom of the ammo can my molds were in with a hand written price of $20.00 on it. I don't remember casting anything from this pig and following the results yesterday I'm sure I WOULD remember the experience if I had.

I thought I'd cast some boolits out of it and see how they shoot in the Herrett tube. Yesterday I filed a set of Lee handles to fit it and checked to see how the blocks closed. Good to go!

Enter the boolit mold from HELL!!

Apparently this little number has been around the block a couple times. :(

First cast, when I opened the sprue cutter it was hard not to notice that both sprues are off center. The rear one just enough to notice but the front sprue is closer to the edge of the cavity than the center.

In addition to the sprue plate being off center it is also warped/bent/distorted. When you try to swing it closed it binds as soon as corner opposite the pivot gets to the blocks. About halfway closed it loosens up again. If the cutter screw is loosend enough to allow it to swing freely it leaves a very thick fin on the base of the rear bullet. On examination it is visibly apparent that the sprue plate is twisted in several directions

Other than the fin, the rear cavity seems to cast a decent boolit. The front cavity spits out boolits with no fin but can't seem to make one with everything filled out.

I probably cast a couple hundred boolits and maybe 25% of them are worth shooting.

I just spend 20 minutes working the plate on a file file. Trying to get the visible waves out of it before I try it on a flat block with abrasive paper. I got it close to flat (can't see the curve now) but it still binds/loosens every time it is closed.

I'm about ready to think of it as scrap metal and move on. I may give up on the idea of using this mongrel to make fodder for it and just work up some loads with condom bullets for it.

This did serve to remind me that 2-cav. molds take a LONG time to make a pile of boolits after using 4 and 6 cavs.

theperfessor
06-10-2012, 04:17 PM
Why not just replace the sprue plate?

Alan in Vermont
06-10-2012, 06:18 PM
Keith, I just hunted up my only other 2-cav Lyman mold and swapped the sprue plate. It fits the mold fine, opening and closing as it should and the sprue holes are a closer fit than the one on it. The one that was close before is now too close to call by eye, the other one is still off-center visibly.

I may heat it up again tomorrow to see if the base fins are gone. If they are I'll try changing things to see how it fills out. Worst case I can try some straight linotype in it. If it won't fill out with that it's probably worth a penny for scrap.

theperfessor
06-10-2012, 08:27 PM
If you decide you don't want to keep it talk to me. I might be interested in it, maybe do a swap of something if you like or just talk dollars.

A while back I overhauled a two cavity Ideal mold donated by Alchemist to fix up for Ben's teenage friend. The sprue plate on that had holes that were on one edge of one cavity and the other edge of the other cavity. I tried a replacement sprue plate from a Lyman overhaul kit and it was the same way, hole centers were different spacing. I ended up making a new sprue plate for it. I clamped the mold in my milling machine vise, found the centers for the pivot screw, stop pin, and cavities and recorded X,Y location of each, and then used that to make a sprue plate that fit perfectly.

Apparently there have been some variations in hole center spacing over the years with Ideal/Lyman molds.