New to me 1858 Remington

[Tom-ADC]

I really like the balance of the 5 1/2 barrel.
Uberti 1858 stainless steel faux ivory grips.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1021972/3058943/402904703.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL174/1021972/3058943/402904704.jpg

[larryp]

Nice!

[Beagle333]

Pretty!!! You gonna shoot them sand dollars?:Fire:

[AR-15 Cowboy]

Nice looking gun. If that is a stainless steel frame , is the trigger guard brass?

[Fly]

Nice & it's a shorty at that.Nothing better than a Remy.

Fly

[Boerrancher]

I would trade my colt for a Remy any day. That is one fine looking hog leg.

Best wishes,

Joe

[sharps4590]

I settled on the 5 1/2 in. SAA's 25 years ago and all but two of my Colt SAA's and my Colt SAA clones wear 5 1/2 in. I never thought of 5 1/2 in. for a C & B revolver. I can only agree with your choice and it is a nice looking revolver. How does it shoot?

[wilded]

I recently bought a blue Pietta 1858 with the 5.5 barrel and I am amazed how it handles compared to the long barreled model. I now want one like your SS Uberti, I love how the faux ivory grips look on the SS.

[Tom-ADC]

Yes SS with a brass trigger guard.
Hope to make a range trip this week, plus I want a Howell conversion kit for it in SS.

[tacofrank]

Handsome hand gun ! I've owned and shot a Uberti for years. They look and shoot great. Mines blue and 7.5 inches. Have fun.

[Crawdaddy]

Very nice looking revolver.
I have a Pietta that I love. I cant believe how accurate these cap and ball revolvers are.

Enjoy!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[treadhead1952]

I'm a member of the 5.5 inch Remington 1858 Club as well. Quick to draw and fire, accurate at pistol ranges and cylinder swapping as with all 1858 Remingtons is on a par with reloading a SAA in my opinion. All you need for that one is some leather to tote it around with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v349/treadhead1952/Leatherwork/EmBPHolsters2_060.jpg

[AR-15 Cowboy]

My son just ordered me a 5.5 in, 1858 Remington, .44cal steel frame Pietta for fathers day from Cabellas. I am absolutely thrilled. I've been reading these threads with envy. Now I'm going to go nuts waiting for it to be delivered. I love the look of the gun and have wanted one for a long time. Let's see now, maybe a conversion cylinder for Xmas?

[neil legg]

Greetings from the UK! I have had a 5 1/2 Uberti Remington for about a year but I am really struggling to get any accuracy from her. I have tried various powder loads using 3F bp from 20 to 30 grains. I have tried seating the ball directly on the powder and used cardboard wads. Fillers are banned on our indoor range. Any advice greatfully received guys!

[Omnivore]

I don't know what to say there, Neil. Your Rem's accuracy should be on par with most modern handguns unless there's something physically wrong. Check the muzzle for any burrs or dents-- that's a common cause of inaccuracy. Check the chamber alignment with the bore. Check the forcing cone at the back of the barrel-- I've seen some ugly ones, with deep tool marks or very off-center cones, or burrs.

It has been said that the barrel bore can be constricted in the area of the threads. You can check that by slugging the bore from the back, and again from the muzzle, to see if the diameters are the same. I read an article on the '58 wherein the author took a poorly shooting original and made it shoot great by reaming the bore larger at the back, so it tapered smaller at the muzzle. Use balls large enough that they're being swaged, or shaved, as they're seated into the chambers.

I've also seen damaged chamber mouths. Look very closely under magnification, and/or use a pin or paperclip bent 90 degrees at the tip as a feeler, for burrs or dings at the chamber mounts. I believe it is more common than generally believed, that the chamber mouths have been damaged by the bullet seating ram. The rams are typically so loose in the frame that they can wander off center enough to impinge on the edge of the chamber mouth. I have a brand new Uberti that came from the vendor having the bullet ram visibly dinged from hitting the edge of the chambers. The geometry of the loading system is such that the ram is pushed upward, toward the cylinder axis, when it's under pressure from the lever link. This is often exaserbated by the lever link hitting the frame at some point in its travel. I have a Pietta with all chambers slightly worn, and slightly burred, at the inward or axle side, of the mouths. This is another possible reason why people say that conicals are less accurate than round ball-- the loading ram has a natural tendency to push the bullet nose off-center of the chamber, toward the center of the cylinder. One Pietta cylinder I have has a factory proof mark on the cylinder face so close to a chamber mouth that it has peened the steel inward, deforming that chamber mouth slightly. Every ball that gets pushed into that chamber got deformed slightly as a result, going in and coming out, until I chamfered all the chamber mouths in that cylinder. It's not great, but I regularly get 3 to 4 inch groups at 25 yards with that one.

There are lots of factors in creating an accurate revolver. Keep experimenting with the loads too, including different powders.

What size groups are you getting? Two to three inches at 25 would be considered pretty good, though there are "target" versions that can do better.

And now we have wandered completely away from the OP.

[dualsport]

Can anyone recomend a source for info on tuning a '58? I have just got one and it needs a little work. Thanks

[RobsTV]

Greetings from the UK! I have had a 5 1/2 Uberti Remington for about a year but I am really struggling to get any accuracy from her. I have tried various powder loads using 3F bp from 20 to 30 grains. I have tried seating the ball directly on the powder and used cardboard wads. Fillers are banned on our indoor range. Any advice greatfully received guys!

While I don't have a Uberti, I do have an original Remington (see avatar), and I find that as is the case with most BP weapons, fill it up. I add enough powder so that the ball is pressed against the powder, with a slight gap at the end for lube wad.

Ball needs to shave off a ring for best fit. Ended up using .457 balls here.

The lube I found that works best is normal BP hard lube for cast bullets (ebay here in the states), melted so its about 1/8 to 1/16th inch thick, and cut out as it hardens (yet still soft) using a 45/70 case.

The lube, ball size and full load of powder were the keys to success with a real 1858.