S&W Revo rebound spring issues..?

[MasS&W]

I recently purchased a model 13-3 .357 mag 4". It seems the previous owner decided to snip off 4+ coils from the rebound spring, making the trigger reset less than ideal . If I was to purchase an aftermarket spring, what kind of weight would be the stock for this gun? I'm thinking 13 lbs should do it, but I don't want to end up with the same problem if it is too light.

[imashooter2]

The Wolff 14 pound has been right for me. Any less and I get inadequate trigger return for very fast double action shooting. S&W stock is 18 pounds.

[MasS&W]

I was about to order a couple 11 pound springs, but figured I would ask first. The stock was always a bit too tight for me, but I figured one could overdo it.

[imashooter2]

You can probably cheat it down a little if fast DA isn't what you do. I wouldn't think of going as light as 11 without serious polishing and a considerably lightened main...

[MasS&W]

I have given both my K frames some serious polishing treatment, both have stock mains pending shipment of a wolf aftermarket kit. The model 15 has a 6.5 DA pull, with no light strike issues (fed primers only). I want to keep the 13 stock for carry and reliability, but the previous owner tried to do a half arsed race gun job on it. (Thankfully he left the sears alone) phewww

[imashooter2]

Sounds like your race guns are right where mine are. I like to bend stock S&W mains similar to the Miculek springs.

For carry, I'd definitely go with 14 pound rebound. I like a little margin for error on carry guns.

[MasS&W]

I agree. I have a 13 lb spring in my carry gun. I've never heard about bending springs. How does that work? Do you have a pic?

[imashooter2]

Bending the spring lets you lighten pull without getting any stacking, like you see by just backing out the strain screw. This is a picture from a poor angle off Brownell's:

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/l_100000223_1.jpg

Basically, you put a relatively sharp bend in the small end of the spring about 1 inch from the hooks. I built a simple jig with 2 nails driven into a board 1 inch apart. I place a piece of tape on the board and mark the end of the spring at maximum deflection when bending. The jig allows for consistent bends and marking on the tape allows you a reference point to tweak a not quite there spring. It's really very easy. After a couple, you get the hang of how much right off the bat.

I used to re-contour the whole spring, but I saw this on Jerry's video and I figure he has forgotten more than I'll ever know about light DA revolver pulls.

[MasS&W]

Haha, I think I will wait until the replacements come in the mail before I break out the needlenose pliers, but for sure, when I have a spare sitting around I'll give it a go. Thank you sir.

[MBTcustom]

Please, if you don't know how to properly open a S&W revolver, shoot me a PM. Also, springs are cheap, buy a few of 'em so you can tinker it in. Every S&W is different and likes different spring weights to get that glassy smooth trigger pull. Its a combination of polishing and spring tuning. Also, when polishing the inside of a S&W, remember that mirror smooth surfaces are not as slick as slightly rough surfaces are. I find that an 800 grit stone, used in the same direction that the motion of each piece occurs, is just about perfect. It will feel slightly rough through the first hundred cycles, but after it wears in, it will feel like mercury poured over a freshly greased sheet of teflon.
Hope this helps.

[MasS&W]

I have been working on my and my friends various wheelguns for about a year now, for the most part very successfully. I was not aware that leaving a slight bit of roughness was better than mirror smooth, but I left them with a bit of roughness anyhow for fear of taking off too much material. As for the side plate... TAP IT loose, DON'T PRY IT OFF! :P Luckily I learned that before I ever opened one myself. Seen way too many otherwise beautiful pieces with warped sideplates that didn't mate with the frame properly.

[MBTcustom]

As for the side plate... TAP IT loose, DON'T PRY IT OFF! :P Luckily I learned that before I ever opened one myself.
Thank God.
Now, when I said slightly rough, I dont mean gritty! I mean an 800 grit finish as opposed to a mirror finish. You are trying to reduce friction. If you have mirror surfaces, they will try to gall together and become one on the molecular level (thats how gauge blocks stay wrung together you know.) By getting a smooth, fine, matte finish, you are going to have slippery surfaces. Kind of like bead blasting, ya know?
This is the same trick that is used to get 1911 slides to be smooth as silk while being closely mated, and lapped together.

[MasS&W]

I gave them enough passes with a polishing stone to make it so.. how do I put this... the grit in the strokes went away, if that made sense. Once I felt a marked reduction in friction, I quit. I figured feeling smooth was enough, and didn't pursue a mirror finish. There's no trigger pull like a properly fitted smith. I managed to get the Model 15 to the point where seasoned ICORE guys are impressed :)

[MBTcustom]

Good deal, you got it buddy.

[Char-Gar]

I have been messing with Smith and Weson DA sixguns for a very long time. In that time, I have ground, bent, clipped coils, polished and replaced springs with lighter springs.

Decades later this is what I have learned;

1. Use factory springs for duty and non-shooting game use. If you want your pistol to function each and every time don't jack with the springs. Springs will lighted up with time and use, so keep the handgun properly lubricated and just use it. Over time the handgun will get slicker and slicker to use.

2. Start jacking with springs and sooner or later, you will have problems. Lighter springs that feel good now, will roll snake eyes on you down the line, as they have no extra strength to take wear.

3. Race guns, like race cars need frequent work to keep them running. Do what you want with your gun springs, but expect to have issues with them every now and then.

[405]

Great thread here.

The very first S&W DA I saw worked on was in 1973 or 74 by an old PPC competition shooter of the time. Like most on this thread, I have worked on them since learning how to do it but there is great wisdom and experience in Char-Gar's post. My carry 19 and 36 are factory springed. Some of my other S&Ws have been "smoothed" for target and competition.

[MasS&W]

Just popped the springs into my model 15 race gun. 11 lb rebound spring indeed will reset the trigger quite reliably, and the Wolff mainspring, with the adjustment screw at its tightest, will set off CCI primers (amazing actually). I only load with fed primers for competition, so I'll do some testing tomorrow, and Steel Challenge on Sunday. Thanks guys!

[dnotarianni]

After trial and error for years in quest for light DA pull and 100% reliability to light off all brands of primers I have found that the stock main spring with an 11 or 12 lb rebound spring is the cats meow for reliability and function. Use the same setup in a 65, 617, 625 and 627 V-comp.

Dave

[MasS&W]

I put in a Wolff reduced power mainspring, and I got occasional light strikes. I too found that a stock mainspring and an 11 lb rebound spring is the ideal. At some point I'm going to try the wolff std power main and see if it makes the pull more consistent.