Ruger #1 rebarreling options?

[Just Duke]

Wifey tells me I'm gunny bag nuts looking at anything that I can't put a scope on with my vision. No Garands, M-14's, K-31's or SMLE's. :violin:
So I'm wondering if the #1 can be rebarreled in large calibers like 50-110 etc. ?
I have absolutely no experience with this platform at all.
TIA,
Duke


http://www.ruger.com/products/no1Tropical/images/1320.jpg


The first rifle in the picture would work if it could be made 50-110!
This is a stock photo off the net and not my rifles.
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss111/kevb512/pictures001600x800.jpg

[Ickisrulz]

Check with SSK

http://sskindustries.com/rifle

"Ruger 1: A fine rifle with great potential. Customizing with the caliber of your choice increases serviceability. Re-barreling can only be done to the same basic contour as the original rifle has. That means a 458 size barrel to go to any of the larger calibers which encompass the 50 x 3 1/4″ (750 BMG bullet), 577 nitro or the 600 JDJ(577 nitro blown out straight to use the 600 nitro .620 diameter bullets – yes, this does require ATF approval – we have it). Arrestors and hydraulic counter coil recoil reducing devices are highly recommended in these larger calibers. High velocity screamers also work in the #1."

[kbstenberg]

Duke why would you want to deface one of those beautiful Rugers. I would be tickled pink if I could just aford one.

[nanuk]

my understanding is the No1's have the same action regardless of the caliber, so can be rebarreled into anything that can be safely held in the barrel diameter large enough to be fit onto one.

the extractor/ejector would need a bit of work, as would the forestock if the barrel profile was different.

[Haggway]

my understanding is the No1's have the same action regardless of the caliber, so can be rebarreled into anything that can be safely held in the barrel diameter large enough to be fit onto one.

the extractor/ejector would need a bit of work, as would the forestock if the barrel profile was different.[/QUOTE]


This is correct. I have seen several #1 actions done up to calibers that are not offered. 45-120, 50-90 and such. This action can handel just about anything out there that will fit.

[Just Duke]

Duke why would you want to deface one of those beautiful Rugers. I would be tickled pink if I could just aford one.


That is a stock photo I pulled off the net and not my rifles.
I have only had one single shot rifle and it was a Shiloh Sharps which I did not shoot be because I could not see the sights.
This would be a donor rifle as in this one HERE (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=289050159) so no living Ruger No 1's were harmed during the making of this film. Or ah build.

[Haggway]

This would be a donor rifle so no living Ruger No 1's were harmed during the making of this film. Or ah build.

Save the old barrel and buy a new extractor, that way everything can go back to original. There was a guy down here that bought 4 25-06 and rebarreled them to different calibers all matching stocks and such. its a nice set.

[Just Duke]

Any other No 1 vendors out there that rebarrel and rework the extractor other than SSK?

[Just Duke]

Save the old barrel and buy a new extractor, that way everything can go back to original. There was a guy down here that bought 4 25-06 and rebarreled them to different calibers all matching stocks and such. its a nice set.

More like $50.00 in the buy/sell section would be what I would do. ;)

[Just Duke]

These guys any good? http://www.mcgowenbarrel.com/catalog3.htm





Ruger #1 or #3
Price $335.00
The Ruger #1 or #3 are a little more complicated to rebarrel as they have a flat breech with a extractor cut and a firing pin clearance cut. The contour of the barrel is dictated by the forearm hanger attached to the front of the receiver. Also at the customers request we reinstall the factory 1/4 rib.

[Just Duke]

Here's a few more form here http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/518249/1

Mark Stratton, http://www.gunmaker.net/main.html

Carolina Precision Rifles, http://www.cprifles.com/rgr1.htm

Stephen Dodd Hughes (SDH here at the Campfire),

Paul & Sharon Dressel, http://www.dressels.com/

Gary Reeder, http://www.reedercustomguns.com

[Just Duke]

Here' the answer 50 Alaskan http://www.leveractions.com/RugerNo_1.htm So I could surely have one done 50-110.

http://www.leveractions.com/images/No1Alaskan.jpg

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

WOW Duke,

If you can shoot a full bore load RUGER #1 in 45/70 or .458, and enjoy doing so, your a much better man then I am!!!

But there is no critter in North American and few if any in the world that will stand up against my 45/70 with the 465gr WFN boolit I use.

I'd think that a .50 coasting along at 1500fps would be more then a match for anything anywhere!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[Just Duke]

The receiver would need to go to Turnbulls for case coloring for sure.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

OH yes, or those flats look GREAT engraved!

CDOC

[Just Duke]

Can the 1/4 rib be removed and traditional scope mounts used?

[Just Duke]

WOW Duke,

If you can shoot a full bore load RUGER #1 in 45/70 or .458, and enjoy doing so, your a much better man then I am!!!

But there is no critter in North American and few if any in the world that will stand up against Dukes wife Buffalo Barbie

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot


Unless your married like I am. :violin: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=671637&postcount=21 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=28515&highlight=married
She does though try's real hard to keep me from doing dumb things like buying guns I can't see well enough to shoot.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Duke, how do you fair with Buffalo Barbie?????????????

Maybe better not answer that!

I have used #1s for years, and have never had an issue with mounting a scope to the quarter rib.

That has been 4 X 12 Redfields, 3.5 X 10 Leupolds, fixed 6 & 10 power, 2 x 7 Leupolds.

The only scope that ever had an issue was a 10X Weaver and that was a scope issue and quickly resolved with a replacement 10X Leupold.

Be nice, and Buffalo Barbie just might let ya linger on another day! :kidding:

CDOC

[Just Duke]

Be nice, and Buffalo Barbie just might let ya linger on another day! :kidding:

CDOC


Does that mean I'll have to do a lot of this? :kissarse:

[Just Duke]

So if you remove the rib there are no other scope mount applications?

[JFE]

You can re-barrel the Ruger to something like 50/110 and you can set up your scope mounting differently but it will be custom installation.

Here's a link to a thread on a custom Ruger No.1 where a custom sighting base is used.

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411043/m/485106389

The thing about scoping a Ruger that you should be aware of is that in factory form the scope is set somewhat forward which means you need a scope with a fairly long tube to work well.

If you want something in a large calibre then look for a Win Hiwall in 50/90, which is actually a larger case than the 50/110. About 10 years ago Winchester made a limited run of two versions, one a lightweight (8.5lbs) traditional hunter version and the other, a heavier (around 13lbs) BPCR version.

These are drilled and tapped for scope bases and unlike the Ruger the rear base sits on the receiver providing a better scope mount position in my view.

[Frank46]

Lipsey's has a special run of 400 ruger #1's in 45/70 with 26" long barrels. Circassian wood or plain wood. Don't know the price. Maybe they will make it a catalog item. I got one with the 22" carbine barrel. Frank

[Frank46]

Conetrol sells horizontal split rings and a base for use without the rib. I think brownells sells a picatinny rail that mounts on the bbl. And Steve Earle may have something as well. Frank

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Me thinks you folks are trying to make a pigs ear out of a silk purse!!!!!!!!!

CDOC

[Artful]

I know you can get bases for #3 contour barrels - doubt the #1 is drilled the same though

[Just Duke]

Me thinks you folks are trying to make a pigs ear out of a silk purse!!!!!!!!!

CDOC


I'm not sure what you mean?

[EDG]

You can use aperture sights with old mans eyes.
The target is sighted through fuzzy apertures that have an equaly amount of fuzz around.


That is a stock photo I pulled off the net and not my rifles.
I have only had one single shot rifle and it was a Shiloh Sharps which I did not shoot be because I could not see the sights.
This would be a donor rifle as in this one HERE (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=289050159) so no living Ruger No 1's were harmed during the making of this film. Or ah build.

[Just Duke]

You can use aperture sights with old mans eyes.
The target is sighted through fuzzy apertures that have an equaly amount of fuzz around.

I tried everything...... I need surgery. Just like a fella that would need a knee or hip replacement.

[Nobade]

I had thought that making picatinny rails to replace Ruger quarter ribs was a good idea. There are only four different ribs from Ruger, so it's not a big deal. Make them extend back over the front ring to be able to get your scope back, etc. So I polled the Ruger forums, email lists, etc. and universally the idea was hated. Seems nobody wanted to spoil the look of the #1 even if it made it work a lot better and be able to use real scope rings. So I scrapped the idea of producing them for sale and will only make them on a custom basis now. I am working on a #1 for myself with a long barrel to shoot paper patched 45-70 with black powder. My eyes aren't worth a darn anymore either, so I am going to mount a scope with lots of adjustment and make a rail that will have the scope zero at 100 yards with it all the way down. Cant will depend on what scope I get, but the point is when you are building something custom just make all the parts work together and then you don't care what is available or what other people have done. Do what works for you.

BTW, with smokeless I think a 50-90 would be plenty cartridge, It would way out power a 458 Lott if you used Starline brass in a #1 action.

[Just Duke]

I had thought that making picatinny rails to replace Ruger quarter ribs was a good idea. There are only four different ribs from Ruger, so it's not a big deal. Make them extend back over the front ring to be able to get your scope back, etc. So I polled the Ruger forums, email lists, etc. and universally the idea was hated. Seems nobody wanted to spoil the look of the #1 even if it made it work a lot better and be able to use real scope rings. So I scrapped the idea of producing them for sale and will only make them on a custom basis now. I am working on a #1 for myself with a long barrel to shoot paper patched 45-70 with black powder. My eyes aren't worth a darn anymore either, so I am going to mount a scope with lots of adjustment and make a rail that will have the scope zero at 100 yards with it all the way down. Cant will depend on what scope I get, but the point is when you are building something custom just make all the parts work together and then you don't care what is available or what other people have done. Do what works for you.

BTW, with smokeless I think a 50-90 would be plenty cartridge, It would way out power a 458 Lott if you used Starline brass in a #1 action.

I'm thinking a 500 to 600 grainer at 1200 to 1300 fps using 5744 or 4198. Basically a 100 yard gun.
As far as the scope goes 2X looks good and I'll send it to Leupold and have something like there Boone and Crockett reticle installed.

[Just Duke]

Someone sent me a link. No sure who he is though.

http://www.davenoringunmaker.com/examples.html

OOOOHHHH AHHHH!!! http://www.davenoringunmaker.com/images/photo%2022.jpg

[EDG]

The Browning/Winchester 1885 Highwall was manufactured in 2 different versions in 50-2.6 Sharps.
It is drilled and tapped and can be used right out of the box - without all of the drama of looking for someone to work on it with all the risk, cost and delay.

[rockrat]

Get one of the Lipseys special runs, with the 26" barrel, send it Jess at JES reboring and have it made into a 50cal. I think you can go 50-70, 50AK, 50-90 or 50-110. 50AK should be plenty, out of a #1. I have a 50-70 done by SSK, and loaded up with Lil Gun and 700gr boolits, it flat out smarts to shoot it. Accurate, in the few shots I can stand.

[Just Duke]

The Browning/Winchester 1885 Highwall was manufactured in 2 different versions in 50-2.6 Sharps.
It is drilled and tapped and can be used right out of the box - without all of the drama of looking for someone to work on it with all the risk, cost and delay.

The barrel is to long for my application but that would be the easier route. I'm told that it's not real good just to cut a barrel down either because of the internal taper. Even the barrel manufactures tell you to chamber from a designated end.
Isn't 50-90 brass thinner in the case mouth than 50-110? I don't want to get into another 44-40 crushed case mouth problem. I got rid of the 1873's off and now stuck with 700 rounds of loaded ammo. Anemic as Blake says.

[Just Duke]

Get one of the Lipseys special runs, with the 26" barrel, send it Jess at JES reboring and have it made into a 50cal. I think you can go 50-70, 50AK, 50-90 or 50-110. 50AK should be plenty, out of a #1. .
50 Alaskan would surely be an option and also a possible upgrade for my 1886's.
JES does a three groove rifling from what I'm told which I do not prefer.
I'd rather just have a new barrel.

[Haggway]

So if you remove the rib there are no other scope mount applications?



Yes you can have a good base set up for barrel mounting. Then again you may be able to re- use the quarter rib also. I have seen both ways done. This action lends itself to some very fine custom work.

[Just Duke]

Yes you can have a good base set up for barrel mounting. Then again you may be able to re- use the quarter rib also. I have seen both ways done. This action lends itself to some very fine custom work.

I could surely see that as correct. Also easy enough to dissemble too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgTJfITvDJI

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad54/LEVERACTIONSHOOTERS/SAFARI/image-52.jpg

[rockrat]

Jess does 3 groove, but he also has the option for 4 groove or 5 groove

[Just Duke]

The Browning/Winchester 1885 Highwall was manufactured in 2 different versions in 50-2.6 Sharps.
It is drilled and tapped and can be used right out of the box - without all of the drama of looking for someone to work on it with all the risk, cost and delay.

You know that don't look half bad either. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=114828


http://images32.fotki.com/v1045/photos/2/36012/9654765/DSC_2685-vi.jpg

http://images56.fotki.com/v127/photos/2/36012/9654765/DSC_2687-vi.jpg

http://images17.fotki.com/v10/photos/2/36012/9654765/DSC_2690-vi.jpg

http://images12.fotki.com/v611/photos/2/36012/9654765/DSC_2689-vi.jpg


The stock comb looks to low for efficient scope mount height.
http://www.texas-mac.com/sitebuilder/images/Rifles_Accessories_Modified-713x382.jpg


http://www.texas-mac.com/Firearms_for_sale.html

So why can’t smokeless ammo be used in the .40-65, .45-90 or .50-90
rifles? The barrels are quite thick and heavy, with lots of high quality
steel surrounding the chamber and bore. With the exception of
freebore and a slightly longer chamber, the .45-90 bore is identical to
the .45-70. The chamber and bore dimensions of the .40-65 are
smaller than the .45-70, resulting in additional barrel material
surrounding the chamber and bore. The answer is because Browning
and Winchester are SAAMI members, and SAAMI does not specify
chamber dimensions and ammunition standards for the .40-65, .45-90
or .50-90 cartridges. Consequently, due to liability concerns, Browning
and Winchester made it clear the .40-65, .45-90 and .50-90 rifles were
designed for BLACK POWDER ONLY by clearly stamping the barrels
accordingly. It’s certainly your call, but personally I would have no
concerns about shooting commercially loaded smokeless ammo in
one of my Browning or Winchester Badger barreled BPCRs.

[Just Duke]

Thanks all for the assistance. Looks like 50 Alaskan would be an easy build for the Ruger No.1 and conversion for the 1886's.

[Just Duke]

Jess does 3 groove, but he also has the option for 4 groove or 5 groove

This would be great for the 1886's.
http://www.35caliber.com/8.html
4 groove would be easier to get a measurement on when slugging the bore.
He also does a 50 Alaskan rebore and I can use the existing barrel.
Thanks for the heads up.

[softpoint]

I'd go .50/ 140 if there is still brass around. Single shot, so there is no action length concern, can always use smokeless, or load a hat full (140 gr. )of black when wanted. I saw a Sharps in this caliber years ago that I should have bought.

[afish4570]

After shooting with hot Ruger loads you'll see why its a hunting rifle, not a plinking rifle. Had to shoot the last 10 rds out of a bx of 50 rds. I loaded up 3 yrs. ago......rest of hunting camp said. Thanks but no thanks.:cbpour:

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Duke,

My comment about making a "pig's ear from a silk purse" refers to taking a beautiful and well designed rifle and messing with it.

The thought here of, if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it, seems to apply.

As I believe I indicated earlier, I have NEVER as in NEVER EVER, had a scope mounting issue with a RUGER #1.

I realise that some scopes are strange/picky, which is the reason that years back I removed a Weaver 10X from a #1 and replaced it with a Leupold 10X.

This situation had nothing to do with scope mounting/position issues some folk seem to have, but the fact that the Weaver was not clear on close in shots, while the Leupold was clear/sharp from near to far.

Ok, I can deal with wanting another caliber, it being beside the fact that a well loaded 45/70 or .458 will take anything and everything you'll ever face.

However, my vote will remain with buying a #1 in a factory chambered caliber and forgetting the retro fit.

Not being an, as from the factory fan, of the RUGER #3, That seems to me to be the platform you should be looking at for your conversion.

Properly stocked/re-stocked and with a properly done re-barrel you will be taking the "sow's ear" (sorry #3 fans) and building a silk purse.

Like I don't like the Alexander Henry fore ends and replace that ugle groove with a nice piece of walnut or ebony, I love the #3 action but don't like the, and never have, the wood on the #3.

Sorry Bill, but you really dressed down what could have been lovely rifle.

The #3 however, is a great platform for building a real class custom build.

Just an Ol'Coot's opinion!

CDOC

[rockrat]

Been checking on rebarrels for the #1. So far, $700-$850 for stainless, so the JES reboring at $250 is a bargain.

[Just Duke]

Been checking on rebarrels for the #1. So far, $700-$850 for stainless, so the JES reboring at $250 is a bargain.
I don't think there's enough metal thickness to bore the 45-70 No1 out to .50 caliber.

[rockrat]

Gunsmith here in town used to send #1's (45-70)off to get redone to 50AK. Still kick myself for not buying the last one (stainless/lam).he did, before he passed away.

Call and talk to Jess , he will tell you if it can be done. If I didn't have him do a Pedersoli Sharps to 50AK, I would get one of the Lipsey guns and have it done. I think you need at least a muzzle diameter of .612" for Jess to be able to do the 50's (.050" per side of muzzle min.)

He did 3 groove in the Pedersoli. 700gr boolits @1300fps and groups about 2"@ 100yds (1.5" if I try real hard--tough with my eyes).

[EDG]

There is enough metal on a Ruger #1 in 458 Win Mag to bore it out to about 40MM.
But the Browning/Winchester 1885 Highwall is a period style rifle that has already been made in .50-2.6" (50-90) Sharps. If you want convincing order a single 50-90 case from Buffalo Arms And look down inside the empty case. Then say something and listen for the echo. If all you want is a 100 yard plinker why not just use the factory Browning without all of the drama, dollars and delay of a rebarrel job. The Browning factory rifle is drilled and tapped for standard scope mounts.
A you can lace on a higher comb if one is required. All in all even a cave man could do it.

I have one of the standard model 1885 Brownings in 45-70 that I benchrest with a leupold 12X in high Browning rings. I have no problem with this sighting arrangement.

BTW you might get a Ruger #1 and find out the safety will grind on your hand with heavy loads..

[paul h]

Been checking on rebarrels for the #1. So far, $700-$850 for stainless, so the JES reboring at $250 is a bargain.

The problem is Ruger drills their barrels very deeply for the 1/4 rib, so boring larger than 45 caliber is highly recomended against. When my smith built my second 458 lott using a ruger #1 458 take off barrel he cut off a couple inches of the barrels breach to get rid of the rear two 1/4 rib holes that were over the chamber as he wasn't comfortable with those holes right ove the chamber.

If you want a 50 on a ruger #1, plan on starting with a new barrel.

If all you're looking for is 500-600 gr @ 1200-1300 fps, then just go with a 500 linebaugh. There is something to be said for using a properly proportioned case vs. a massive case and dealing with fillers etc. A 50 alaskan will do near 2000 fps with 500 gr bullets and the big 50's will do 2400 with 500 gr bullets. There's just no reason to use such ponderous cases unless you want to burn black powder.

[Dogmann]

I'm in the process now of doing this. Making a 44mag - longer throat for heavy cast bullets out of a 1H

[Dogmann]

I have two custom big bore thumpers. Both great up close and real personal thumpers.

One is a Custom 18inch 458win mag with express sights

The other

A custom 16inch 45/70 1H built on a 4581H!


Both ruger 1H's

Work was done by the best ruger no.1 smith in the USA !

Steve Durrand of Johnsons Sporting Goods in Michigan

I'll get some pics and post them

[Parson]

The Ruger can be made into a fifty but be careful which case you choose. The problem comes in getting the rim past the block. The longer the case (longer case has to go in straighter) and the larger the rim diameter the harder to get past block. Some will take a little off of the top of block but most will not touch it.

[Chief]

Any other No 1 vendors out there that rebarrel and rework the extractor other than SSK?

there is a couple of guys over in Idaho that have done some good work on #1s, if you are interested I can post some info for you.

[Chief]

the 1V model has two separate mounts on the barrel. Just use the Varmint contour from Ruger and use their mounts...
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b281/thought101/DSCF0392_zps59566208.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/thought101/media/DSCF0392_zps59566208.jpg.html)
stock photo from my gunrack
sent from my ASUS laptop that barely works

[bigted]

Dogman ... still waiting for them pictures of the short Rugers. those sound cool and id like to see a photo of them.

also Duke ... where did you go with your desire? did you ever get a Ruger and do the desired changeup to it?