"frozen" trigger questions??

[10 ga]

Posted this in rimfire since it was my 581 but probably fits better here.

What to prevent trigger assembly parts "welding"

Couple of years ago put the old Remmy 581 away. It was cleaned and stored "properly". Couple of weeks ago got it out and the trigger was "frozen". Well my smith said the trigger housing was some kind of "pot" metal and had "welded" to the steel trigger. I understand how this happened and the use of anodes and the problems with non similar metals and how the welding occurs so my question is--- what can I use to prevent this from happening again? Any suggestions on the best stuff to use for storage, like more than a year, other than cosmoline? Heck, to prevent this again I'll get some Cosmoline and use it. Thanks, 10 ga

[Longwood]

Maybe Di-electric grease from the electronics store.
Radio Shack sold it back when Radio, in their name, actually meant something.

[atr]

physically separating the metal, not practical in your case, but its the solution for metals which react to each other such as as you described. For instance we usually used plastic to separate aluminum from steel, so you might want to find a spray lubricant with a high content of teflon or some such.

[bob208]

3m antiseze. that is what it is made for. i will not put a sparkplug in an al.head with out it. never have had a problem.

[atr]

Very good suggestion bob208 !!!

[10 ga]

bob208 a question? anti-seize is great. I use it on all my breech plugs, nipples etc... for my MLs. What I have is very grease/paste like, how do I get that inside the trigger mechanism?

atr, good suggestion of a high teflon type oil/spray. Should get into the triger unit easily. Will continue to monitor the post for more suggestions etc...

Yeah, I have boats and am familiar with "isolating" the electrical parts and Fe from the AL to prevent electrolisis. Gets to be a PITA.

Thanks all, 10

[bob208]

i use the silver collered antiseze. never had a problem getting it any were . one drop on my finger 5 min later it is climing past my elbos heading for the ear lobes. it does not take much just one drop and i am covered. same thing with dap pipe sealer.

really i would put the can in a pan of hot water. then dip the trigger assemably.

[10 ga]

bob208, LOL! How well I know about that anti-seize going everywhere! Warming it up sounds just right. I'll put some on some foil and just set it on a light bulb and pronto = liquidus. I may well turn silver or copper myself way that stuff travels. Thanks, 10

[Dark Helmet]

+1 on antiseize, put it on all friction/wear/contact points.

[Longwood]

Cut a single wire from a wire brush. Clamp it in a vise with about 1/4" sicking up above the jaws.
Drive a short piece of small dowel down onto it.
Your new tool will reach into some mighty small places.

[John Taylor]

I get guns in that have sticky parts and most of the time it is because the owner used WD-40 to clean/lubricate. This stuff has caused more gun related problem than I can count.
Never heard of pot metal "welding" itself to steel. Have seen oxidized aluminum stick to steel.
The trigger on your 581 can be taken apart with care. Clean the parts up and use a good gun lube.

[Joni Lynn]

Remington has been known to use a lube in their triggers that after a period of time seems to solidify. Soak it in something to loosen it up and then flush it clean and relube and I think you'll be okay. I remember a local gunsmith telling me that once.

[roysha]

Personally, I think someone is blowing a little smoke. I have never seen or heard of the specific occurrence you are describing. I'm not saying it is not true, but I doubt it very much. Several here have posted the suggestion of hardened grease/oil and I fully agree with that.

In some environments some oils can harden quite quickly. For example, when I was a kid (more or less prehistoric times) there was a commonly used stock finish repair formula that used 3in1 oil and ether as a dryer. I don't remember the ratio now but it was something like 3 oil to 1 ether. It worked quite well as long as there was no buildup on the surface. 3in1 would work OK by itself but took quite a long time to dry. The point I'm trying to make is that if the oil did harden, it most certainly would "freeze" a trigger since it would be akin to varnishing the trigger.

If you think you really need something other than a good quality synthetic gun oil, I would suggest you go to a boat shop and get a can of Volvo-Penta corrosion shield. I have used this on guns that were exposed to some pretty harsh environments and it protected quite nicely. Just for curiosity (this thread brought it to mind) I got out a rifle I have not shot in 15+ years (didn't intend to not shoot it for that long, but sometimes time just gets away) which I had "stored" after spraying with the V-P product and everything works and looks great.

[10 ga]

OK here is outcome. I soaked in a pot of WD-40 for about a week, then cleaned with brakleen and began a PB-Blaster regimen for another week. Then cleaning with carb cleaner and air blasted, no freedom. To the smith, he's retired but does easy short jobs about 1 a day for the beer $. He has the punches and pliers and vices for the pins and keepers etc... Takedown and the steel triger is electrolisis "welded" or corroded to the housing. Trigger seperates from housing with a tap. Clean up the electrolisis and corrosion and lube and reassemble. Worked just like new. Going to use the antiseize and try some "fogging oil" like I use on the outboard for year long put ups as well as get some real "cosmoline" for the long long term storage. Thanks all, 10 ga

[bob208]

yes i have seen al. weld itself to steel. from corsion. i have seen it alot on the water necks on chevy intake manifolds. it just grows around the through bolts and you have to break them to get the bolts out of the intake. that is where i learned about the silver antiseze.