Texan Progressive Shotshell Reloader

[seagiant]

Hi,
I know most people here are more metallic cartridge reloaders than shotshell but there always seems to be some guys here that are pretty sharp with both so thought I would ask anyway!

I was trying to find one of these loaders for the longest time as every time someone brought them up in a forum all they could say was how well they worked and their robust make up! I tried a couple of times to buy one off of ebay but they were models that had been used quite a bit and still sold for over $150!

I found this one in my wandering looking for one and it was $195 but looked almost LNIB. The owner said he bought it used 26 years ago for $300 and never used it! Had it stored in an AC'ed room all the time! I was hoping someone here could look at the pics and tell me if it is a model MII or a MIV. The sticker came off and the owner could not remember except he said it was the most expensive loader Texan sold at the time? Here are some pics from the sellers ad,also the primer tube is not shown but was included also!

[KYCaster]

WOW! That's a nice looking press.

Check out Cast-pics.....References..........Reprints of manuals..........

I found manuals for both Texan progressives.

Apparently the difference is...The MkIIa has a sizing die at station #10 (kinda like a Lee FCD) which the MkIV lacks.

I thought mine was a MkIV, but after seeing your pics I see that mine has two holes D&T'd on the edge of the shell plate under station #10 and yours doesn't. I suppose that's where the sizer was fastened. Mine works fine without the sizer, but I have best results when I run the hulls through a Lachmiller shell conditioner before loading.....sizes the base.

Couple of minor issues........

Crimp adjustment isn't very "intuitive".......wish I had seen the manual when I got mine. Read and follow the instructions and you can get perfect crimps.

Powder and shot drop are NOT case activated. :groner: Keep a can of compressed air and a pick handy to clean out the powder and shot that get under the shell holder and in the primer assembly. :oops:

Powder and shot bushings are a bit scarce. It's probably easier to have them made than to find them for sale. Let me know if you need dimensions.

I've loaded several thousand shells on mine with ZERO maintenance and no issues other than the ones already mentioned.

You did good! [smilie=p:

Jerry

[seagiant]

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for the info! So you think mine is a M-IV? You mention some problems but still seem to like the machine which is good! I don't really know what a good price is on one of these but just what I have run into on E-bay! The seller was a real good guy and made a point that he would pack it well which is always a concern!

If you have any pics of yours I'd be happy to see them. How does the primer system work? Thanks again!

[skeettx]

You have an MII, the MIV has springs to hold in the hulls and a different final crimp die with a spring and a different wad setting arangement.

The items that I see absent are the shell shovel for the handle to move the ejected loaded shell to the rear of the press and also not shown are the tubes for the auto primer station.



Mike

[seagiant]

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the info! I have the primer tube even though it is not shown on the pics! Do you see any problems with the shells staying in the shellholder? I have been all over the Internet and have yet to hear anyone bad mouth or complain about this loader in the M-II or M-IV model???

[LUBEDUDE]

Maybe I just got ahold of some bad information from the start, but I am really confused.

According to a catalog I used to have/can't put my hands on, only the MK V (5) came with a brass resizer.
I have yet to even see a MK 5 or even hear of anyone having one. Did they actually exist?

Also the catalog did say that the brass resizer was an option that could be added to the Mk 2 or 4.

What I gathered were the differences were options such as auto wad adjusters and wad pressure devices. And basically any option from a MK 4 or 5 could be added to a 2.

And a 4 that was stripped down without a priming system and other options was called a MK 4 Basic which is what I was lead to believe what mine is.

Mind you, I am not challenging anyone, I am only relaying what I have read and was told what my press was when I bought it and the manual that came with it said it was a 4.

Mike- are you certain that all 4's had the springs- even the MK4 Basic ?

Thanks

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_75704fbef420bc780.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=5354)

[seagiant]

Hi,
Wow! I did not realize how big these Texan progressives are! The RCBS Shell Saver next to the press gives some idea of size! The seller of mine sent it in two boxes and total weight was 47 lbs.! Thanks for the pic!

[LUBEDUDE]

Hi,
Wow! I did not realize how big these Texan progressives are! The RCBS Shell Saver next to the press gives some idea of size! The seller of mine sent it in two boxes and total weight was 47 lbs.! Thanks for the pic!



American Prime Grade A-1 Beef!

[skeettx]

I have 15 different M loaders, they are in 12, 16, 20, 28 and 410, some are M-II and some are M-IV and yes the M-V does exist with the special sizer. For the II and IV, I use the MEC SuperSizer.
AND I have taken most of the hull holding springs off my M-IVs
Mike

p.s. I also have a CH Auto Champ and a Green Machine

[Huntducks]

I had 2 of them for years sold both on ebay when a friend gave me a PW-800 wish I had the Texan back.

That said a brass sizer was a option on both the 2 and the 4 it sat upside down and was spring loaded your main body were the shell plate rides on will have 2 holes drilled and tapped on the side, your unit has a different attachment that holds primer tube then either of mine.

I bought mine from a family friend of my inlaws he bought it new in 1968 $150 still have the paper work.

Tid bit the primer can was a old crossman pellet gun tin that you peeled the top back like a sardine can, you can see the red at the bottom (no paint.)

Old Lyman shot a powder bushings will work on the Texan.

I might have some extra parts not sure if I sold them.

That is a nice clean unit.

[skeettx]

Huntducks
Please look for your extra parts
I kinda broker M Texan parts
Have lots of bushings
Mike

[seagiant]

Hi Huntducks,
Thanks for the info! I had a PW 800C and although I love PW loaders as a whole that machine was possesed! It would work sweet for 30 or 40 rounds and then jam up and of course you have to start all over again. Might of been in need of a total rebuild as I bought it used and it had some wear on it! I sold it to a PW addict for what I paid and everyone was happy!

I hope to enjoy the Texan more,as I get familiar with it!

[seagiant]

Hi,
Can someone tell me what the difference is in the Black M models and the Red?

[skeettx]

The one pictured has an M-IV priming setup and a partial M-IV wad setup
and new shot and powder tubes. Also looks to have a curtain rod for the primer
tube.

[LUBEDUDE]

Mike - so if you pull all of the options out of the equation, what is the difference between a MK 2 and 4, the hull springs?

Thanks

[skeettx]

1. Hull Springs
2. Different Primer Feed (only feeds primer when actuated by hull in station 1)
3. Different wad guide (self lowering wad guide, plastic, , often breaks at the rod hole)
4. Different Final Crimp Station (no spring adjustment)
5. Different length handle
6. Different primer decapper to go with different primer feed
Maybe more, but I am old and forgetful :)

[LUBEDUDE]

Great, thanks Mike!

[wrench man]

This thread has been very informative, I picked up a Texan shot shell loader a couple of weeks ago, I know nothing about it?, it looks just like the one seagiant posted a picture of in post #13 but mines been in a very humid environment for some time!, it kinda stuck, I haven't tried to do anything with it yet?, it came as a package deal with a LYMAN "All-AMERICAN" turret press, an RCBS collet bullet puller with several collets, a bunch of L.E. Wilson case gauges, and several boxes of bullets and a jar or two of gas checks and large and small primer pocket reamers and a hand full of other stuff I haven't even really looked at yet?, I got the whole mess for $35, think I got a fair deal!?:bigsmyl2:

[472x1B/A]

I also have a Texan Moled IV ( basic ? ) as in the picture in post #13 but without the auto primer feed. It has probably loaded close to, well you do the math. The gentelman I bought it from shot registered trap for 13 years in Calif.. So, I buy it used from him for $300.00 in 1986. I shot trap and skeet for 7years 3 nites a week. All my shells were loaded on this press, 12 ga.. Have never borke any parts, it's heavy as in like 25 - 30 pounds, and it really needs to be mounted very securely. Powder and shot bushings are gettable but it may take some searching. I have used Hornady powder bushings but you really need to keep track of each.

Credit is due skeettx for the good info he has given on these well made reloading press. I have never regretted buying the press I have. It has taken me about 15 years to buy the whole set of powder bushings and have many extras, but never plan to sell my press.

The Texan Reloading Tools catalog I have from 1976 sells a M-V for $459.95, a M-IV for $359.95 (with primer feed), a M-IV basic for$269.95.

[seagiant]

Hi,
WrenchMan,you did great of course! Those deals are once in a lifetime. I had an older gentleman at our club that was getting out of reloading and was a hoarder and had an enjoyable morning buying him out! Just got lucky I guess!

472,
Thanks for that great info! I have been all over the Internet and this is the best thread on these loaders I have seen! Something to remember for any of the younger guys is that $400 in 1976 was a little bit of change!!! A lot more than it is now,so this shows the value that these machines held in the market back then!

Here's a pic I found that I take is a M-IV,because of the shovel attachment??? Mike?

[skeettx]

What is pictured is an M-II
It does have the shovel for the handle to move the loaded ammo
to a catch box in the rear side of the machine
Notice metal wad guide holder, spring in final crimp die, old auto primer style, etc
Mike

p.s.
Most M-IVs have a plate or holes for a plate

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j452/skeettx/MVC-036S.jpg

[LUBEDUDE]

Well it is clear that I have a MK 2, and not an MK 4 Basic as I was told.

Thanks Mike

[seagiant]

Hi,
Yea,a big thanks Mike! I would still be in the dark on these things without your help! I feel this first one is not my last and it will be nice to tell one from the other! I'm going to keep my eyes open for a Texan catalog that shows all the models. There is just not enough info on the Net!

[seagiant]

Hi,
I thought I would ask this question of the long time users of this loader. I once owned a PW 800 loader and it had advance shellplate problems and I hear that PW will rebuild loaders with new parts,retime,ect.

However, I have talked to owners all over the Internet that claim they have been using their Texan Progressives for close to 30 yrs and have loaded 100's of thousands of rounds with nothing but replacement of wad fingers? Be advised,I'm not trying to start a brand war,I'm just wondering why? The advance shellplate system on the Texan must be some kind of heavy duty is the only thing I can come up with?

[skeettx]

Yes the shell plate advance is STOUT and once activated is fixed, mechanical and flawless.
It is a cam plate.
Mike

[Huntducks]

IMHO the trouble with the PW 800 is simple once you start the shell there is no removing it until full cycle mine won't load some hulls with some wads about 1 in 5 don't seat right. the PW 900 is a better unit as you can remove the shells at any station.

Like I posted before wish I had my Texan back, but find myself using a mec grabber or sizemaster most of the time instead of the PW unless i'm loading active hulls W/CB 1oz wads.

[seagiant]

Hi HD,
That's my point! If a reloader does not work right it gets a bad name! That's a given,especially with the Internet now! What got my interest up on the Texan was that in my quest for info and talking to owners I've never heard the first complaint and coupled with HEAVY usage!

I sold my PW 800 to a friend that loves them and was above board with the problems but he was happy to get it??? I use the PW Met II and the PW 375 loader and think they are both leaders in their type but just will never have another PW 800!

[skeettx]

For manuals for the M-II and M-IV
look here

http://stevespages.com/texan.html

[LUBEDUDE]

Thanks for the manuals Mike!

[seagiant]

Hi,
I don't think we are allowed to post e-bay links,but if you go there and type in Texan Reloader,you will bring up what is available. One of the loaders is a red (early) model with no primer feed and has without a doubt been used! It has 2 days to go and is already at $162!

This is why I jumped on mine! I wanted to thank everyone for the nice info on these loaders and everyones input. I am once again better informed than I was! You gotta love this site!

[RoGrrr]

The reason my first progressive metallic reloader was a Dillon 650 is bcuz I had 2 of those old Texan loaders. The first one was the original red-base model in 12 GA, followed by the M2 that we converted to load 20 and 410.
Having a mechanical background and knowing that precision is GOOD, My father and I loved the fine workmanship of the ROTEX.
So many of the local rednecks we shot with got them, couldn't figure them out and soon sold them dirt cheap and replaced them with MECs. (we still out-shot them)
Now that Dad is gone, I have both of them, tho I don't shoot many clays I still appreciate what they are.
Consequently, I was not at all afraid to buy the Dillon. It runs perfectly, as did those Texans. The only thing I might have had in place of them would be a LJUTIC. But they were only 12 GA. and we wanted to shoot skeet too.
We made our own powder and shot bushings.

[seagiant]

Hi RoGrrr,
Thanks for the info! So you have had the older Red model and the Black MII. I was wondering if you could tell me your opinion on one over the other or your experience between the two? I have a old DL-300 that only has the primer post (no auto primer feed) and do not see it as a downside! This coming from a man that sold his Spolar Gold,but would never sale my Deitemeyer!!!

[RoGrrr]

Between the red and black, I truly have no preference. The black incorporated the gauge change capability. The heads are primarily the same (Black has powder and shot cutoffs. Big deal !) and all the dies and bushings are too.

Once adjusted, given your knowledge/skills/abilities, they both will function the same way.
On that subject, I have a Dillon 650, after much time studying the 650 and 550. I chose the (more complex) 650 due to the added shell station so I could immediately incorporate their powder check, but down the road, I thought I might like to add a bullet feeder. That would be hard with the 550.

So, that extremely complex TEXAN taught me/set me up for other complex machines down the road. I'm forever thankful for the lessons learned by it.

Now I have a Magma Bullet Master (8 moulds which run continuously with no supervision. Can you say - PRODUCTION FACILITY) to cast slugs with, and even tho it was offered as a "basket case abortion" (sight unseen - ebay, you know) I jumped in with both feet and have no qualms whatsoever that it will work flawlessly for me after I rebuild and adjust it.


Hi RoGrrr,
Thanks for the info! So you have had the older Red model and the Black MII. I was wondering if you could tell me your opinion on one over the other or your experience between the two? I have a old DL-300 that only has the primer post (no auto primer feed) and do not see it as a downside! This coming from a man that sold his Spolar Gold,but would never sale my Deitemeyer!!!

[seagiant]

Hi RG,
Thanks for the insight/opinion! The no primer feed Red model on E-bay went for over $200+shipping! Guess I did alright after all! Can't wait to get home and set mine up! Thanks again!

[bds]

I want to apologize before hand if I am breaking any forum rules for posting this here (mods can PM me).

I have two Texan progressive reloaders (12/20 ga) that I decided not to keep. I have them up for sale/trade on another forum but if someone here is interested, I will halt the sale. I may even consider trading them for some cast bullets. :D

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=171860&stc=1&d=1347841367

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=171861&stc=1&d=1347841407

[LUBEDUDE]

Howdy bds, most of us reloaders are nosey and of course are interested and appreciate in what cha got.

However, to keep from getting your hand slapped by the mods, and to further help yourself, you might want to post what you have and how much you want or list your demands over in the the "Swapp'n and Sell'n" section. Go over to the home page and down near the bottom. Of course pics go a looonnng way.

Good Luck to ya!

And thanks for the heads up!

[UNIQUEDOT]

bds, you can't advertise them for sale here unless you end the ad on the other forum...just a heads up for ya.

[bds]

UNIQUEDOT, got it. Thanks, didn't know.

I will wait a bit to see what the initial response is on the other forum and if there's no interest, I'll close out the sale and post here for trade with some "cast boolits".

[skeettx]

Give us more data please
Cost?
Model M or RT or ??
Thanks
Mike

[bds]

I am asking $160 each or $290 for the set.
I will also consider 5000 45ACP 200 gr SWC sized .452" and lubed (wheel weight alloy OK).

I am not familiar with the Texan presses and out of town on work til Friday. I can check the presses and report back/post more close up pics.

[skeettx]

Great looking forward to pictures
What part of the country?
Mike

[bds]

Central California.

[bigretic]

Can anyone help me find a primer tube and feeder setup for a M11a Texan?

[Cactus Mike]

bds,

Hello, I am new to this forum but not new to Texans. Am interested in yours and would like for you to PM me (I sent you one already!).
Thank you.





I am asking $160 each or $290 for the set.
I will also consider 5000 45ACP 200 gr SWC sized .452" and lubed (wheel weight alloy OK).

I am not familiar with the Texan presses and out of town on work til Friday. I can check the presses and report back/post more close up pics.

[db@100]

Wow, I'm glad I found this site. I've had a Texas reloader since the mid to late 60's. I haven't loaded lately. My dad bought the loader when I was in 7th grade. We did a lot of bird hunting so he had me load shells for the whole family. After he passes away I didn't hunt as much so I would just load a few cases of shells and that would hold me for a while. It has been so long since I loaded anything that the powder I used to use isn't even made any more, Alcan 5. Would someone please tell me what powder you use and what charge bushing it is?

[Cactus Mike]

The prices sound pretty good, but I would like to get a little more information ans see some pictures please. Could you do that for me?

DO WE NEED TO BE IN A DIFFERENT THREAD TO DISCUSS BUYING AND SELLING?
Maybe i ought to check for a "for sale / WTB" thread.

[widmeyer]

Hello all, I read this thread and found it very informative. I have a couple questions and am hoping that I can get some expert opinions/advice!

-I found a guy selling two texan shotshell reloaders 12 ga. (one appears to be the MK II, and one is the older red painted version) He is asking $250 for both (they are missing the primer feeder, but otherwise function perfectly) is that a good deal?

-Is there anyone who knows where I can look to find spare parts for these loaders (ie. the primer feeder)?
-I'm also wondering if/how I can convert the current 12 ga setup to 20 ga? If it's possible does anyone know where to get the dies/parts?

-I guess my biggest question is whether or not getting 2 of these for $250 is a steal, or I should not be excited...

thanks for any and all help you guys are able to provide!!!

thanks,

AJ

[skeettx]

Primer feeds are RARE
Might find one on Ebay, perhaps, possibly, but expect to pay money
I have bushings at $6 each and shipping
Gauge conversions sets also sometimes show up on Ebay
Good luck
Mike

[bpratl]

Hello all, I read this thread and found it very informative. I have a couple questions and am hoping that I can get some expert opinions/advice!
-I found a guy selling two texan shotshell reloaders 12 ga. (one appears to be the MK II, and one is the older red painted version) He is asking $250 for both (they are missing the primer feeder, but otherwise function perfectly) is that a good deal?
-Is there anyone who knows where I can look to find spare parts for these loaders (ie. the primer feeder)?
-I'm also wondering if/how I can convert the current 12 ga setup to 20 ga? If it's possible does anyone know where to get the dies/parts?
-I guess my biggest question is whether or not getting 2 of these for $250 is a steal, or I should not be excited...
thanks for any and all help you guys are able to provide!!!
thanks,
AJ

If you purchased the Texans, PM me as I may have some of the parts you need. I presently have three Texans and use the 12 gauge one all the time (100 reloads/week). The 20 gauge is a source of parts and yes the 12 gauge press can be easily converted to 20 gauge with the correct parts.

[beeser]

After finding this excellent thread on Texan MKs I thought it might be better to add to it than start another one with my question. I have a few of these fine machines and just started loading some 12 gauge shells with one of them. I was having problems with the wads hanging up on the hulls but just now realized that the wad holder has to be pushed down for the fingers to do its job. Duh! I read elsewhere here there is a modification or a feature on a model I apparently don't have that automatically lowers the wad holder. If anyone can provide a picture of the setup it would be appreciated.

[seagiant]

Hi,
Actually you should NOT have to push the wad guide manually?

If you have to then either the wad guide holder is not sliding freely like it should OR your wad guide fingers are worn out and not holding the wad when the post pushes on it to move the whole assembly down.

When that happens the wad will push through the fingers prematurly and get hung up on the mouth of the shotshell!

Hope you can understand my crummy explanation?

The wad guide fingers HAVE to be stiff enough to keep the wad from starting to go through the fingers UNTIL the whole assembly is pushed down and stopped by the shotshell case mouth THEN the post pushes the wad into the hull!!!

[beeser]

The wad guide holder (silver part in your picture) on the machine I'm using now slides freely but I don't see any mechanism that pushes it down. Can you elaborate a little more on its workings?

[seagiant]

The wad guide holder (silver part in your picture) on the machine I'm using now slides freely but I don't see any mechanism that pushes it down. Can you elaborate a little more on its workings?

Hi,
The post or rod that seats the wad into the hull will push the assembly down till it is stopped by the mouth of the hull.

THEN it will go further and seat the wad inside the hull.

You need to get the machine in front of you and study what is going on and what is happening and what is SUPPOSE to happen, and see what the problem is, ie troubleshoot!

I saw on another site that people bought the Texan Progressives and could not run them and switched to MEC's!

They are more involved than others, and not for everyone.

There are a lot of things happening at once and everything has to work together. (timing)

Some people want a plug and play (today) and don't have the basic patiance to figure something out like they did in the 60's (my theory)

[beeser]

Hi,
The post or rod that seats the wad into the hull will push the assembly down till it is stopped by the mouth of the hull.

THEN it will go further and seat the wad inside the hull.

You need to get the machine in front of you and study what is going on and what is happening and what is SUPPOSE to happen, and see what the problem is, ie troubleshoot!

I saw on another site that people bought the Texan Progressives and could not run them and switched to MEC's!

They are more involved than others, and not for everyone.

There are a lot of things happening at once and everything has to work together. (timing)

Some people want a plug and play (today) and don't have the basic patiance to figure something out like they did in the 60's (my theory)

The wad fingers on my setup do not seem stiff enough to hold onto the wad and lower the wad guide body. It slips shortly after engagement with the wad plunger. I have another Texan with a plastic wad guide body and different wad fingers, which may be a MKIV setup. I may give that one a try and see if it works better. I have about 4 original manuals and I'm just noticing that they all have differences. After finding the section on wad insertion in one of the manuals it seems that some of the machines at least were meant to have the wad guide body lowered manually, not a problem since it's done with the opposite hand that does the indexing.

[seagiant]

Hi,
To each their own.

If you use modern Hornady wad guides you should be ok.

If the wad guide is a little "big" just cut it down the middle then cut a small sliver off (top to bottom)

That will allow a slightly smaller dia. to fit.

The cap when it goes back together in the holder will hold it together and it will work fine.

The plastic wad guide fingers only work so long!

[beeser]

I tried holding the wad guide body down on the hull until the wad engaged part way and that seemed to work OK. Another one of my factory manuals suggests using a .410 plunger and .410 wad fingers appropriately cut down for all gauges. I may give that a try.

I also applied a light coat of powdered graphite between the metering body and upper hopper plate. That made the press function smoother but now I'm a little concerned about the graphite doing harm to the aluminum. Is there a better dry lubricant for this application?

These Texans seem to be good solid machines and built for a lifetime. I don't have a lot of experience with shotshell reloaders but here is a list of improvements I would like to see.

Case activated powder/'shot dispensers. Spills take some fun out loading with these machines.
Way to stabilize the hulls as the shellplate indexes. I've crushed a few hulls in the process.
Improve the primer dispensing mechanism. Primers occasionally get jammed.
Smooth the indexing mechanism. It seems a little rough to me even after lubrication.

[seagiant]

Hi,
With the Texans I actually like the manual primer arm that does not use the auto set up!!!

More reliable and really just as fast!

I'm actually converting mine to the manual but have to make the parts on my lathe.

No big deal cause thats why I bought it!

Problem is lately I started a new job out of town and have no time to play very much!

Here is another shotshell loader that I like a DL/Pacific-300 with a few mods!

[beeser]

The manual primer feed sounds interesting. I have one on my Texan metallic loader and may give it a try on the shotshell loader. Removal and reassembly is a simple one bolt installation. Nice looking DL/Pacific-300. Is that the predecessor to their 366?

[seagiant]

The manual primer feed sounds interesting. I have one on my Texan metallic loader and may give it a try on the shotshell loader. Removal and reassembly is a simple one bolt installation. Nice looking DL/Pacific-300. Is that the predecessor to their 366?

Hi,
Yes it is!

Actually I think it was Dietmeyers first progressive press and it is built like a Russian T-34 Tank!

Funny how most of my preferred loaders ,shotshell or metallic are built SOLID!

One thing you might want to do is get a Lachmiller resizer nd decap and resize your hulls before you load in a seperate operation.

It smooths up the reloading process and gives you a chance to inspect the hulls before use!

Here is a pic of one, Randy Buchanan rebuilt, and did his usual excellent job on!!!

[beeser]

Hi,
Yes it is!

Actually I think it was Dietmeyers first progressive press and it is built like a Russian T-34 Tank!

Funny how most of my preferred loaders ,shotshell or metallic are built SOLID!

One thing you might want to do is get a Lachmiller resizer nd decap and resize your hulls before you load in a seperate operation.

It smooths up the reloading process and gives you a chance to inspect the hulls before use!

Here is a pic of one, Randy Buchanan rebuilt, and did his usual excellent job on!!!

As mentioned before I'm new to shotshell reloading. What's the purpose or advantage of resizing/decapping the hulls beforehand?

That Lachmiller is some beefy tool. Nice! I like that thick plate underneath. Aluminum?

[seagiant]

Hi,
Pretty much what I mentioned.

You have to try it, it's a fast operation and I wouldn't load without one now!

Here is a pic of mine, not as pretty, but works perfectly.

That is a piece of aluminum for a base, allows you to C clamp to a bench and move things around!

[vh2q]

I have a NIB Texan RT set up for 20ga and about a hundred bushings if anyone needs ..