slugging the bore and fire lapping

[happyhunter]

I really want to fire lap my 50th Anniv Ruger 357 Flattop. I know I need to slug the bore before and during the process. I am really gun shy of that. Just last week I got a lead sinker stuck in my barrel. (Long story).

I was using a wood dowel. Bad idea I hear... I have a large ball peen hammer maybe a pound or so. I put WD40 down the bore first.

What should I do differently? I hear brass is a better rod, where do I get one?

Also, I saw a post about a fire lapping article written by 2dogs. Where is that article?

Thanks,
HH

[**oneshot**]

I use a short piece of brass cleaning rod from a muzzle loader.

[Piedmont]

Why do you want to fire lap it? The reason I ask is I have one of those and mine had no thread constriction and a gleaming barrel with no tool marks. If something needs fixing, I'm all for it.

Mine shot twice as well at 500 rounds as it did new, but all I did was shoot it and with lead loads at that.

[2 dogs]

http://www.gunblast.com/FerminGarza-Firelapping.htm

[Char-Gar]

I know Fermin and he is a good guy, but reading an article is no reason to do anything to you handgun. If you handgun is giving you problems, then try and run the problem down and fix it. Until you have an "actual problem" don't go shoving abrasives down the barrel of you great pistol.

[2 dogs]

That is a very good post Char-Gar. The original poster doesnt even say WHY he wants to firelap....??????????????

[happyhunter]

Accuracy is ok, I would like to improve it. Runs around 5 to 6 inches at 50 yds. I have a 2.25 inch SP101 that shoots a bit better.

HH

[Iron Mike Golf]

happyhunter,

You don't say what your skills are, beyond your snubbie SP-101 shoots "a bit better". Not how much better. Now, that could be "you shoot your SP-101 a bit better".

1. Accuracy problems can come from (most common to least common): the shooter, the ammo, the gun. Before altering your gun, rule out the other two. What is your ammo?

2. For slugging, brass rod is best. You can also use threaded steel rod (Home Depot or Lowes) wrapped in tape. WD-40 is not a lubricant. Just moisten a patch with gun oil and punch the bore. A heavier hammer would be better, but not required. I use a drilling hammer (short handled baby sledge).

3. You should be able to tell if you need to firelap and not do it blind, hoping to get better accuracy. The two main reasons are to remove a barrel constriction and to smooth out really bad tool marks. Tool marks you can see. Constrictions you can feel with a tight fitting patch on a jag. If you have access to a pin gauge set, you can also detect a constriction that way. Constrictions can be cause by the crush fit of the barrel threads into the frame, roll marking on the outside of the barrel, and intalling sights.

4. Along with slugging the bore, you need to check your cylinder throats. Search here on leading to learn about the way the dimensions should be from chamber to muzzle. Problems with these dimensions can affect accuracy.

[2 dogs]

Does your sixgun display leading? Do you get a lube star on your muzzle?

[happyhunter]

I have often suspected I don't shoot a single action revolver very well. I don't have anyway to confirm that. I only have one SA and I don't think I'll be buying another. This is my second. I had a Ruger NMBH in 45 Colt that did not shoot well but it had some dimensional issues that may have been the reason for that. So, yes maybe I shoot DA better than SA or maybe my SP and my old 686 (sold a long time ago) were just better.

I have been shooting 20+ years. Do local matches sometimes. I have a friend who says I can really shoot well. I think I am above average. I generally run about 2 inch groups with my Kimber 1911s, if I take my time. I tend to shoot more poorly when I rush it (who doesn't).

I have had this 357 flattop for maybe 6 years. Tried mostly jacket bullets: 158 XTP, 158 Winchester JHP, 180 XTP, 180 Remington JHP, 158 LSWC from Missouri Bullet and some 173 Keith bullets from a guy on another forum. Mostly used 2400, tried some H110 and Lil Gun, the Lil Gun did worst. 2400 and H110 were about the same. Unique runs about the same size too but I mostly just blast with that. Only seen average accuracy from any of that (like 5 to 6 inches at 50 yds).

I want to use this for hunting deer in PA out to about 60 yds. Also for coyote out to 100 yds. This piece will not do the coyote and only barely makes it OK for deer accuracy. Overall this disappoints. I really don't want to spend $ on another gun. I would like to like what I have. But right now I am getting fed up with it.

I have slugged the barrel but it was really hard to get the sinker thru. I want a better way to slug so I can tell if there is a constriction at the frame threads. That is why I asked that. I have often heard not to use steel, can damage rifling. I want a brass rod but Lowes does not sell that.

I have a friend who is a machinist. He said I can borrow some pin guages. Guess I should hit him up for that.

Leading does not seem to be a big problem. But most lead I have run thru this is in 38 or 357 Medium loads. I only recently started casting. Tried my first batch this past weekend, they were really bad, maybe 3 inch at 15 yds. I really did not try hard when shooting them. Mostly just blasting. I don't think they were the right size. Again I need to slug the bore to know for sure.

I have read the book that Bear Tooth Bullets put out. It has been a couple years now. Really want to do something with it this summer.

Gotta go,
HH

[454PB]

I use a piece of brazing rod 1/4" in diameter. I put a 20 degree point on the "boolit" end, which keeps the rod centered on the slug and away from the rifling. For slugs, I use pure lead cast in an appropriate mould. If you are limited to a slug size that is a bit too small, just put it in a vice and squeeze it up to a bigger size. Run a solvent soaked patch through the bore and a drop of lube oil on the slug. Use a small hammer (mine is brass) to drive the slug in flush with the muzzle, and a lot of light blows to push it out the breech.

[462]

Slug all six cylinder throats, too. With a revolver, knowing their dimensions is just as important/arguably more so as knowing the dimension of the groove. Throats should be larger than groove.

If you can't find a brass rod, buy a steel one and wrap electrical tape round it every six inches, or so. Using a wooden dowel is asking for trouble, so much so that there is a stickie about it. A rubber mallet will also work, to get the slug started and even with the muzzle. After that, use the brass or steel rod and a heavy hammer.

Report back with throat and groove measurements, taken with a micrometer.

Walk first.

[1bluehorse]

I've firelapped a few pistols, but not for accuracy per se. It was to remove constrictions in the barrel and smooth them out. Sometimes there's a fairly large increase in accuracy, sometimes not. It did help with leading issues where the barrel itself was the problem to begin with and velocity did increase a little in each. Firelapping can serve a purpose but it isn't the answer for all accuracy and leading problems. If done incorrectly it can do a lot of damage, and you'll be buying a new barrel. It removes metal, that's why it's called "controlled wear". It's not that difficult to do but you should be aware of possible consequences.