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View Full Version : Plastic in a hot mould - oops



GL49
04-28-2012, 03:23 PM
Got a little problem with a mould, but you've got to hear the story (excuse) first.

A friend started loading for his wife's 9mm, so I was going to cast a few bullets for him to try. I thought I'd start out with my Lee 120grTC six cavity mould, I've cast and shot a few thousand of these, knowing that the mould was always a bit "sticky", one of these days I'll get around to polishing the cavities. Well, yesterday, it was a lot worse than normal, finally got about 100 decent bullets cast, enough to shoot and a few so I could Leement it before using it again.

AHA! I'll go get my brand new MIHEC six cavity 147gr. TC mould off the shelf, mount the handles, life will be good again. After the obligatory wash in the sink, mount the handles, (search high and low for metric tools, which I finally found in the trunk of my son's car), I started to cast. First pour, the bullets literally fell out of the mould. :smile:

As I got close to casting temp, one of the cavities started to stick. Maybe hotter is better. Nope, now two, sometimes three are sticking. Third on the right, second on the left were worst. More temp, more stick. Cooler alloy, hotter alloy, more stick. Finally got it to where I had the last three on the left and the first three on the right block wouldn't come out of the mould.

Maybe cooler is better. Now I'm back to the third on the right and second on the left are sticking, but the mould isn't filling out. Slow the pour, speed up the pour, pour at an angle, hotter and cooler in the casting pot, nothing seems to help. Now it's cold enough I'm getting a few wrinkles AND it is sticking.

My youngest son came out to the garage and needed help holding something, took off my gloves, finished his job, (knowing the mould would be cooler), then went back to casting. Only after pouring the next mould full, shearing the sprue, and catching it in my right hand did I remember why I always should be wearing my gloves.

Burn ointment, gloves, and now a cold mould, I started again, same problems, finally got the mould up to temp, now I'm gonna try a few other things. Ever have a chunk of sprue go into the hole in the knee of your pants you wore, (so you wouldn't ruin a good pair earlier in the day weeding the garden), go down your leg and lodge at the top of the two pairs of socks you wear inside your work boots? You'd be amazed at how fast old guys can move.

Try the mould again, beat on the mould again until the wooden handles fall off the mould. Reinstall them, get one crooked so it won't go fully on, don't worry about it 'cause it's gonna fall off again sooner or later. Sure enough, six or seven casts later I had another chance to get it on straight. Took a look at my Klein rubber handled screwdriver I had been using for a mould beater, the rubber isn't factory original any more.

Finally get to the point of trying mould release, get out my can of MIG spray which has worked before, get a few casts with wrinkled bullets but no sticking, then back to stick-stick-stick. Hot, Cold, change alloy temperature, nothing works. Cool the mould, take it into the sink, wash, scrub, now everything is clean, it's going to work this time. Redo everything I've done before with the same results, except NO mig spray, not gonna clean that off again.

Where's my can of Frankford Arsenal Graphite Mould Release?. Haven't used that in years, most of you probably know why. Finally find it hiding behind my can of Breakfree, next to my new box of earplugs, on the third shelf above my loading bench. Knock the earplugs off the shelf, right over my box of 12ga shotgun hulls I'm preparing to load. Want to guess how many of those little earplug packages will go down inside shotgun hulls when they are standing on their bases? Clean up my earplugs, I need to let the mould cool to apply the mould release anyway. You remember the hole in the knee of my pants? It'll locate every spent primer that's fallen out of my Dillon 550 and made it's way to the garage floor while you're picking up earplugs.

While all this is happening, my bottom pour Lee pot decided it'll do what Lee pots do best. Next project was to find a hacksaw blade to cut the ingot out from around the front legs of my pot. After it was unplugged and set up hard. Not gonna do the "I hope this burns through my pants and not my leg dance" again. I'd only gotten 45 minutes older, but a heap smarter. Reheat the pot, add the ingot parts I cut off from the bottom of the pot and the old sprue. Flux.

About that time my son shows up in the garage "DAD! WHATEVER YOU'RE DOING SURE STINKS!" This is the one that always helps me cast and likes to shoot, he must want something from his mom, now he's siding with her.

Apply the mould release. Did you know it'll get kinda clumpy and lumpy over time? Wow! The bullets just jump out of the mould, but they look like they've got a bad case of measles from the mould release. Ever seen paint that has kind of a "textured" finish? That's my bullets.

Now we get to the real problem. Since my frustration level is about a 9.2 on a scale of one to five, I'm not really thinking clearly at this point. I'll bet one of the old toothbrushes I keep on my bench may smooth out or remove some of the lumps.
Hot mould + plastic bristles on a toothbrush=now I'm gonna quit.

So here's my question.... How do you remove melted plastic from the inside of one of the cavities on a mould?

GP100man
04-28-2012, 05:12 PM
Try Brakekleen it`ll get into the mold release & if there`s any under the plastic will help the plastic release .

try freezing the mold then scraping with plastic scraper .

Solvents stronger or oilier than brakekleen or alcohol would be my last resort .

Reheating & wiping it out of the cavitys ???

GL49
04-28-2012, 10:16 PM
Thanks! I'll pick up some Brakekleen tomorrow. After yesterday, I thought I had somehow entered "The Twilight Zone".

GLL
04-28-2012, 11:51 PM
Acetone ! Plenty of acetone!
I use it as my final mold rinse before casting anyway.

Jerry

Dale53
04-29-2012, 01:04 AM
+! on the Acetone. Use with plenty of ventilation and it will dissolve the plastic. Make sure the mould is cold before doing this...

By the way, I nearly messed my drawers laughing at your "perfect day"...:mrgreen:

I have been casting bullets for sixty years and on occasion, things don't go well. When that happens, I stop and shut up shop. Come back the next day and chances are every thing will run fine. Normally, there is a reason why the mould is not working well but sometimes, they are just contrary - the BEST of moulds.

Good luck and remember things WILL get better.

Dale53

Lance Boyle
04-29-2012, 09:32 AM
With all that I would have probably shut down and go inside for a beer. I'd probably find a mouse in my beer though.

Sounds like days when i do my own mechanic work. this is stuck, that breaks, can't drive my own vehicle to the parts store cause it's disassembled, and by the time I get a ride arranged the parts store is closed.

kenyerian
04-29-2012, 09:39 AM
Some days a guy should just stay in bed.

Von Dingo
04-29-2012, 03:21 PM
With all that I would have probably shut down and go inside for a beer. I'd probably find a mouse in my beer though.

But then you get a free 24 eH

Ben
04-29-2012, 03:35 PM
One of these days I'll get around to polishing the cavities.

Some things take a priority, you can avoid a lot of sticking problems with some polishing.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=47669

Ben

williamwaco
04-29-2012, 03:41 PM
As I got close to casting temp, one of the cavities started to stick. Maybe hotter is better. Nope, now two, sometimes three are sticking. Third on the right, second on the left were worst. More temp, more stick. Cooler alloy, hotter alloy, more stick. Finally got it to where I had the last three on the left and the first three on the right block wouldn't come out of the mould.


Been casting almost 6 decades.

In my experience when a really good mold starts sticking during a casting session. It is ALWAYS caused by the mold getting too hot.

When that starts, it nearly always starts with a single cavity. If you keep going, more cavities will start sticking. When this happens, dump the bullets, then set the mold aside with the halves wide open. In front of a fan if you have one, for about 60 seconds. While you are waiting, inspect some bullets. Maintain this cadence and in about three or four fillings, the sticking will stop.


I hear a lot of recommendations to use water or a wet rag to cool the mold. I don't like the idea. The old timers said it would warp the blocks. I don't really think this is true but I know from experience that slowing down the casting cadence will fix the problem. I do NOT recommend water.



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rexherring
04-29-2012, 07:07 PM
+1 on the acetone.

Thanx for the story, I think I almost spit out my coffee. I thought that stuff only happened to me.

runfiverun
04-29-2012, 07:48 PM
i have a couple of molds that will stick a boolit like that right when they get into the grey zone, where i like to cast at.
i polish just that one cavity,and watch the color if the boolits stick after that, the heat gets turned down so i can ride the line.

Moonie
05-02-2012, 09:29 AM
I've had days similar, some days the casting gods frown upon you. I find it best to stop and come back another day.

plainsman456
05-02-2012, 06:21 PM
When days get like that stop and reflect some.
The same thing works when trimming limbs here a the house with a chainsaw.
Those Levis will never be the same but the skin on the left leg will grow back.
Lesson that was learned was stop and reflect when tired and things are not going right.
The wife was pissed because they were new,not because the leg was mauled.

John Boy
05-02-2012, 06:54 PM
How do you remove melted plastic from the inside of one of the cavities on a mould? VERY CAREFULLY ... with a 50:50 mix of Acetone : Marvel Mystery Oil

Made a serious error one day putting Micro-90 cleaner in the cavity of a hot mold - pure hard 'gum' adhesive mess. The 50:50 solution cleaned the mess out ... when the mold was COLD