300 Sav in 99. Sort brass by weight?

[robroy]

I bought 120 of formed 300 sav brass for $15.00. I forgot to ask the origin of the parent brass. It appears the lot was formed from range pick-ups. Got some 308 Win, 30-06, millitary, etc head stamps. A half dozen random pieces chamber in my Model 99. I have yet to check the case lengths. I forsee trouble with this disperate brass and I'm wondering if sorting by weight alone will keep me out of pressure trouble and give me a fighting chance of finding an accurate load.

This also raises the question of how fine a grade to sort. Is 5 gr close enough or by 1 gr or by a fraction of a grain. I think maybe the weighing will answer the grading question but please folks opine away.

[Good Cheer]

Just my opinion...
For accuracy in full power loads you will probably be better off sorting by name brand and then weight. But depending on your load and rifle it may not matter enough to worry about.
Have the necks been reamed / turned?

By the way, you really can anneal too much (real quick) on the .300.

[redneckdan]

If the necks have not been turned don't expect much luck. Need to take off like 20 thou to get them to fit. Best bet would be to use them for plinker loads, 6gr of red dot has worked well for me. Get some 300 savage brass for full power stuff.

[DeanWinchester]

300 savage and 308 win have a lot in common. I have a LOT [a whole lot!] of 308 ammo I have made over the years. 270, 280, 243, '06, 2506, as well as a plethora of military brass. Loads ranging from wimpy to powerhouse. As far as the differences in brass, the only real difference I have ever seen or had trouble with is neck diameter. Sometimes 30/06 brass will need to be neck turned as the brass gets a touch thick. Looking into each case after charging, I can't tell much difference in powder levels for the same charge. I can visually see differences in 223, but not so much in my 308's. YMMV

I would full length resize, trim, check neck diameters and run 'em. Starting charge and work up. If you're only using them in the one rifle, neck size only.

[robroy]

Thanks for the replies. I hadn't thought of the neck thickness till now. I'm thinking that if it pulls off the sizing button of the die and chambers it is probably close enough. Having said that I was planing on buying a ball mike anyway.

As far as anealing goes it may need it it may not. I use temp stick to judge when the neck is to temp and use my hardness savers (thumb and forefinger) to hold the case head and quench before they get uncomfortable.

[richhodg66]

When I first got a .300, I thought brass was going to be a problem, but after posting in the WTB/WTT forum here, I came up with an awful lot of it pretty cheap, so I gave up the idea of forming it from .308s.

I'd go ahead and find some .300 brass, but I think you'd be OK with what you have too. I'd sort by headstamp and be done with it.

[405]

Huge bargain eh? You might save a lot of headache and get some decent, correct, new brass to begin with. You can look here and it is in stock at the moment:

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/19589

You can also check out Midsouth Shooters Supply, but I don't know if they have it in stock- just a mouse away though.

[starmac]

Sportsmans usually has it here. I was suprised, but they stock it.

[robroy]

I'll chalk the $15.00up to tuition. I'm still going to try this stuff and see what it does.
I've got some 150 grain jacketed layin about loose. This might be a good way to use it up.