cylinder face all black do you clean it?

[gray wolf]

No lead splash just the face of the cylinder all black.
Looks to be carbon stain, looks Crappy, Do you clean it off and if yes,
what is the safest way to do it. I have JB bore paste, & JB bore bright,
and a few bore cleaners. I have been told slip 2000 works for carbon.

[steg]

Know just what you mean, I run alot of Unique thru my Airweight, and buy the end of the session it looks terrible, I've just been using gun oil and a fine bronze brush, kind of like an oversize toothbrush, it gets the stain out and dosen't hurt the finish.

[462]

If the gun is stainless, Nev R Dull (impregnated cotton batting) works quite well. Don't know if it's safe for blued metal, though. Also. there is not any paste residue that needs to be removed, unlike Mother's or Flitz.

[jcwit]

On another forum I frequent there has been an on going discussion about this. Some say do some even claim cleaning it will wear the cylinder, thereby making the gap larger, I say BS. But they sure get adamant about it.

Myself, I'd clean it, using the methods already mentioned. Just don't use 80 grit on your belt sander.

[Chicken Thief]

I have the same problem ;)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/Til%20andre/R0010862.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

one of my friends uses rouge and a buffing wheel on a power drill.
I am in the camp that fear this agressive cleaning can open
up the cylinder gap prematurely.

I use either Ed's red or Hopes #9 on a patch,
that cleans the chunks of burnt powder and soot,
but it doesn't really clean up the stain.
I don't care, I'll be shooting that revolver again soon anyway.
Jon

[PbHurler]

On my STAINLESS cylinders, I've not found anything that works as well as Flitz on a red rag. Yeah, you might get a little into the chambers, but you can swab it out when you clean the chambers. It only takes a little. Clean off the face of the cylinder first with your favorite solvent, wipe dry, and use a little dab of Flitz worked into the red rag and rub, rub & rub some more. Replenish a clean area of the cloth as needed & continue to your satisfaction. My cylinder faces wind up looking unfired. I still use a tube of Flitz (about the size of a travel toothpaste) I bought I'll bet; 15 years ago. A little goes a long way. I've heard Simichrome polish is similar, but I've never used it. I'd shy away from using either on a blued gun.

[geargnasher]

Umm, who cares? The dark cylinder face accents the shiny WFN meplats nesting in the other chambers when pointed at bad guys.

Gear

[MtGun44]

I was thinking along the lines of "never worried about it too much".

Hard to get off, goes right back, doesn't effect the function, so what?

Bill

[PbHurler]

Just a labor of love I guess, I like to put up a clean weapon.

[gray wolf]

So far I found the J B bore paste and or IOSSO bore past on a soft tooth brush works to take it all off. I don't want to take any metal off or change any dimensions on the cylinder face. I wasn't sure if it would hurt anything to leave it be.
I may try the never dull cotton, I don't think it's abrasive.
Folks say the slip 2000 cuts through carbon with a 5 Min. soak but I have never tried it. I do like things clean. Thanks for the answers so far.


Sam

[jcwit]

Sam, I think you have to rub forever with J B Bore paste or IOSSO to ever detect any wear.

Remember, forever is an awful long time.

[Blacksmith]

Anyone ever try putting something on the cylinder before shooting to make it easier to clean? You put Crisco on BP cylinders to prevent chain fire so would a film wiped on the surface keep the carbon from sticking?

[Jailer]

Slip 2000 carbon killer and a brass brush. I use this combination to clean the gas block area on our mini 14's and it works well.

[TCLouis]

I clean what comes off with cloth and solvent. Everything else will just be there again. It does not seem to build up, just "stain" the front of the cylinder

[edler7]

The best stuff I have found is Hoppe's Elite. Wipes it off without any scrubbing.

Don't care much for it in the bore, it doesn't smell right.

[stubshaft]

Umm, who cares? The dark cylinder face accents the shiny WFN meplats nesting in the other chambers when pointed at bad guys.

Gear

Mirrors my sentiments exactly Gear.

[Southern Son]

I usuall don't worry. If I am cleaning my 686 I just put a bronze brush in my cordless drill and use that to remove the carbon, not worrying about the little rings around the mouth of each chamber, but every now and then I like to clean it up special. When I do that, I use some of that Lead Removal Cloth (can't remember who made it), but the cloth is yellow.

[RugerFan]

I use Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth. It does a fantastic job of removing the carbon and burn rings from the front of STAINLESS cylinders.

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-31001-Remover-Polishing/dp/B001MQIA9Y

[btroj]

I have found it difficult to remove so,I no longer try to. I just quit caring about it.

[Dennis Eugene]

Most of the guys who say "I like'em clean" don't seem to understand that just because it is stained a little bit black does not mean it is dirty. I've got better use for my time than to spend it cleaning a clean gun. Dennis

[bobthenailer]

I usually wait until i have about 200 rounds through my handguns before cleaning . With the stainless revolvers , I use Flitz metal polish and a red shop rag & a brush, I can clean all of the gun including the Inside of the cyl & barrel , to almost like new in about 10 min or less .

[scb]

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=03356524&PMPXNO=1714979&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

[3006guns]

Most of the guys who say "I like'em clean" don't seem to understand that just because it is stained a little bit black does not mean it is dirty. I've got better use for my time than to spend it cleaning a clean gun. Dennis

I agree........guys that make that kind of statement have yet to mature into the realm of reality, where practicality takes over. If the carbon doesn't come off with regular cleaning and doesn't interfer with functioning, it stays.

[jcwit]

Then why should I wash & wax my auto? It'll just get bugs and dirt on it the next time I drive it anyway.

I realize we're not discussing cars, but the logic is the same!

[gray wolf]

so if I get dirt behind my ears I should just leave it there.
What the heck, I can't see it, I can still hear.
Sorry I wash it off,
I Don't put other people down because they want to do something.
If your happy with what works for you--have at it.
I don't mind the extra 2 MIN. it takes to do the job to MY satisfaction.
and what kind of ridiculous statement is this ?

guys that make that kind of statement have yet to mature into the realm of reality, where practicality takes over. If the carbon doesn't co

What a crock of crapolla.
A little JB bore bright ( not paste ) on a tooth brush and about 45 seconds gets the job done.
Reality checks are in order yes,-- but not in my world, especial in a case like this.
I

[405]

Everyone who has shot and cleaned a revolver has seen it and attempted to clean it off. Some of the build up is obviously carbon and that will come off using normal methods. I'm not sure the underlying stain is carbon build up. It's more like a discoloring of the surface layer of the metal itself- not a layer of build up. I have ignored it for a long time. I like extremely clean guns & bores. But, early on I figured that aggressively cleaning that face was prematurely wearing the blue off the front of the cylinder near the edge. And, I think it is in the metal itself kind of like case coloring. Removing all traces of the "stain" to reveal bright metal each time the gun is shot and cleaned, could also be removing thin layers of metal.

[bootsnthejeep]

I'm with RugerFan. I have that very same cloth. My stainless 686 has been fed a pretty steady diet of 2400 and lead and Hoppes and brass brushes wouldn't even put a dent in the soot on the cylinder face. It wasn't a big deal, but stainless is stainless, and once I get started cleaning, it gets out of hand in a hurry.

Forget why I bought the lead removal cloth, but just rubbing it on the cylinder takes that soot right off. My only complaint is I can't get it right into that corner between the cylinder and crane bore because the cloth is too bulky to make the edge. But I can live with that.

[gray wolf]

Boolit Master


405's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mtn West
Posts: 2,115

Everyone who has shot and cleaned a revolver has seen it and attempted to clean it off. Some of the build up is obviously carbon and that will come off using normal methods. I'm not sure the underlying stain is carbon build up. It's more like a discoloring of the surface layer of the metal itself- not a layer of build up. I have ignored it for a long time. I like extremely clean guns & bores. But, early on I figured that aggressively cleaning that face was prematurely wearing the blue off the front of the cylinder near the edge. And, I think it is in the metal itself kind of like case coloring. Removing all traces of the "stain" to reveal bright metal each time the gun is shot and cleaned, could also be removing thin layers of metal.
__________________
I agree with what you said, however for me, I AM NOT talking about cleaning down to bear metal, obviously that could remove metal at some point in time.
But I think any heavy carbon that will come off ( and it will ) with a good soak in slip 2000--- with out being aggressive does no harm and only takes a short time.
The metal especial on a S S gun will stain, you are correct.
I am not advocating scrubbing the stain off.

[MT Gianni]

I clean it just before I sell it.

[jcwit]

Removing all traces of the "stain" to reveal bright metal each time the gun is shot and cleaned, could also be removing thin layers of metal.

Have you any idea how long you would have to polish/rub/clean till you removed enough to be measureable?

This is of course using the type of cleaning products we have listed here.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

On another forum I frequent there has been an on going discussion about this. Some say do some even claim cleaning it will wear the cylinder, thereby making the gap larger, I say BS. But they sure get adamant about it.
I was skeptical when you posted this...I've read all the following posts, I stand corrected, many of us are adamant about it :)

also, I've done a little redneck machining on my drill press to take a few thousands off a expander plug for a case neck expander die...unless I go real agressive, it takes forever to 'polish' off one or two thousands.
BUT, with that said, I'll still won't attempt to polish off the 'stain' from a cylinder face. :)
Jon

[405]

Have you any idea how long you would have to polish/rub/clean till you removed enough to be measureable?

This is of course using the type of cleaning products we have listed here.

I have no clue how many abrasive scrubbings it would take to matter. Those in the "remove the stain" camp should be able to continue to do so and those not in that camp should be able to do so. I pointed out that the stain everyone is talking about may not be a simple, exterior layer of carbon (IMO) . Also, I simply stated I don't pay much attention to it after cleaning all the sure enough exterior fouling and carbon off.

[jcwit]

I have no clue how many abrasive scrubbings it would take to matter. Those in the "remove the stain" camp should be able to continue to do so and those not in that camp should be able to do so. I pointed out that the stain everyone is talking about may not be a simple, exterior layer of carbon (IMO) . Also, I simply stated I don't pay much attention to it after cleaning all the sure enough exterior fouling and carbon off.

And I'm only pointing out it would take an awful long time to remove any measurable amount of metal. In other words IMO I believe virtually none of us would ever be able to measure the amount removed by cleaning the face of the cylinder under normal service.

[thx997303]

Then why should I wash & wax my auto? It'll just get bugs and dirt on it the next time I drive it anyway.

I realize we're not discussing cars, but the logic is the same!

Actually, this is not a valid comparison. Washing and eaxing a car is more akin to oiling the finish.

Without the protective wax coat, the paint will oxidize And the metal will rust

Of course you wash the car before waxing so you don't scratch the living heck out of it.

And of course dirt behind your ears will eventually smell bad and likely hive you an infection.

The dark staining on a cylinder face will not rust your gun, or give it an infection. Apples to oranges.

[jcwit]

I guess if you think so. So lets go apples to apples as you say.

Then why should I wash my car, it will just get dirty the next time I use it.

Again, I realize we're not discussing autos here but again the logic is the same.


Without the protective wax coat, the paint will oxidize And the metal will rust

Not necessarly true with todays clear coat finishes. Sold a 15 year old mini van last year that had never been waxed in it roof. Paint was in the same shape as when new except for tree sap drippings in places, and no rust.

[MtGun44]

Next we can sort out how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.

LOL!

Bill

[chboats]

gray wolf - Sam if that's your thing DO IT!

We are thinking of traveling up to your neck of the woods again. May be we will have time to get together for more than a cup of coffee this time

Carl

[Recluse]

I always clean my wheelguns pretty quick after shooting. *dunno* Just kind of anal about it, I suppose.

Most of the time I'm using some unflattering language. . . Cleaning a wheelgun is like cleaning SEVEN semi-automatics. . .

For the cylinder, on stainless I simply use some 0000 steel wool or Scotchbrite pads and Hoppes. For the blue-'d guns, I use some foul language, lots of Hoppe's and oh-so gentle scrubbing with textured patches.

Just the powder residue is easy enough--drown it in solvent and gentle scrub with a soaked patch will do it. For any lead flakes or buildup on the very end, scotchbrite or steel wool.

:coffee:

[Roosters]

No lead splash just the face of the cylinder all black.
Looks to be carbon stain, looks Crappy, Do you clean it off and if yes,
what is the safest way to do it.

On a stainless revolver it’s as simple as just wiping it off with Never Dull. Not only the cylinder but even inside the frame . It’s available at about any auto parts store. A can will last for years unless you start finding all the other stuff it will clean and shine. http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A Another plus cheap around 5 bucks a can. . . .