Neck Sizing 30.30

[Wrbjr]

is purported to be a no no in articles I have read. Due to possible chambering issues all should be full length sized. Anybody have any experience with just neck sizing for the 30.30?

[atr]

In my lever gun Win 94, I always full length size,,,the action seems to work better

I also have a savage 340 bolt action and with that rifle I found neck sizing worked ok

I dont know of any other reasons, other than smooth chambering issues, that would make neck sizing a no-no

[Nobade]

As long as the cases are used in the same rifle it's not a problem. I neck size them with a Lee .308 collet die. Works great, just doesn't do the whole neck.

[hiram]

You can back-out the 30-30 FL die 1/2 turn.

[RU shooter]

I agree with Hiram ,I partial FL size for my 32 spl so the neck is only sized 3/4 of its length,Dont have any problems but I dont push the old girl too hard either.

[reloader28]

Rather than screwing with your die, put the spacer from a 38/357 or 44spl/mag under the die.
I've made several thickness's of washers to use under dies. Much easier.:grin:

[geargnasher]

I use two tools for my .30-30s and do segregate brass for each gun. The main tool is the Lee Collet sizing die, which doesn't stretch the cases at all, and they chamber fine for 3-5 reloadings with full-power loads, a few more with lighter stuff. Once they get peened out enough to need a FL size, I use a Lee FL die that I've honed the neck part out to about .334" or so and installed a .310" EZ-expander rod from a Lee .303 British FL die. I use that to bump the shoulder back about .003-5" and swage the case head just a little bit, then I trim the brass. Ready to go for a few more firings with the Collet die and no trimming or overworked necks.

Gear

[Larry Gibson]

I use a Redding NS die and it works fine with most all my cast bullet loads in my two M94s and Contender Carbine. With top end loads approching 40,000 psi that do require FL sizing for ease of chamber/extraction in the M94s and in chambering in the Contender I use a RCBS X die. With the X die I do not have to trim the cases anymore and they stay the same lenght for crimping.

Larry Gibson

[MT Gianni]

+ 1 for the X die.

[.30/30 Guy]

I neck size for all of my .30/30's. I do segregate for each gun.

1885 Winchester Hi-Wall
Remington 788
1899 Savage
1936 Marlin
Savage 219
Merrill single shot pistol

[Four Fingers of Death]

A few shooters that I know (including me, although I haven't done this in 30/30) buy a RGB die set and modify the FLS to turn it into a body die.

I haven't made a body die for the 30/30, but always load on the 310 Lyman tong tool which only neck sizes and that never seems to be a problem. I have ended up with squillions of 30/30 cases, so I suppose they haven't been loaded more than 3-4 times.

[popper]

I do as gear does, but don't use the Lee collet die for anything but decapping. Sizes the neck and just push the shoulder back a few thou. Neck goes down .006 and M (31r) pushes it back out .004, probably should take another .002 from neck. I set the shoulder for proper HS. Haven't trimmed any brass for a long time. I only have 1 30-30, but did this for 2 243, set shoulder for the tighter one.

[405]

As to the OP's ? about is it a no no? Not really a no no, but if you neck size only at some point you'll find out. Can't argue with gear's method- pretty much the way I handle most lever gun reloading. I have not tried the Xdie system but can see how it would work well also.

Many of the levers that have shot a lot of rounds, are old or have had some hot loads run though them will begin showing increasing headspace. That increasing headspace will also aggravate the issue of sticky chambering after neck sizing after firing and reloading. Additionally, neck sizing only and partial full length sizing after some number of reloadings will begin to add friction to the chambering process. You can feel that stickiness start just before the round and bolt goes into full battery. While the bolt may still go into full battery with a little added umph on the lever, that resistance can't help but add friction to the action parts thus increasing wear. At some point it may become a compromise between what is best for the gun versus getting the last one or two reloads out of the brass. In the case of the 30-30, the brass is relatively cheap so I opt for increased kindness to the gun and accept decreased brass life.