Pillow ticking.

[Boerrancher]

A fabric store opened in town apparently awhile back. I mean long while back, and I just noticed it yesterday. I went in and turned loose of $6 of my hard earned money and bought 2 yards of pillow ticking. It is .0012 thick which is the same as the other patch material I have been using, but looks to be a whole lot more durable.

I was told by the Dad's friend who taught me about casting and muzzleloading, that when using pillow ticking, or any patch material for that matter to make sure the thread direction always runs the same when loading. I never paid attention to this before with the patches I was using, because there was no real way to keep track of how it was turned. Since the pillow ticking has lines, is it really critical to make sure the thread lines run the same direction with every load? For my shooting abilities I never never give it more than a passing thought before, mostly because my guns are hunting guns and not target guns.

I would appreciate the thoughts of those who have been doing this a long time on thread direction and accuracy in a hunting rifle.

Best wishes,

Joe

[curator]

Like you I use pillow-ticking for patched round ball shooting. I orient the patch strip the same way, finished side toward the bore for consistancy. If you are not familiar with Dutch Shultz's method, here's a link to his site: http://blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/patches.html

[R.M.]

Well, let me tell ya, the way I shoot, it don't matter one little bit.

[waksupi]

Joe, that's a sucker play. It doesn't matter. Although I have got some pilgrims going, telling them to turn the stripes more left or right, according to where they are missing the target.

[Boerrancher]

Thanks for the comments fellas. I never could see how which direction the stripes were would make a difference, but it is funny that I did find this in my Lyman's 45th Edition Reloading Handbook in the muzzleloading section page 193, first paragraph second sentence states:

"Always keep the grain of the patch in the same direction."

All of the patching material I have ever used has been a standard weave with no distinct grain pattern. I guess if you were using denim or corduroy it could have a slight effect but I really just don't see it.

Best wishes,

Joe

[2571]

Yeah, I've heard that before. Always orient the patch so the finished side doesn't touch the barrel.

And, I've heard that foolish consitency is the hobgoblin of the little mind.

Remeber to wash that ticking in a washing machine with side to side agitation, too.

:>)

[KCSO]

Not one bit of difference which way the threads run.

[Boerrancher]

Well, I did a bit of shooting with the pillow ticking for a patch. It didn't matter how I turned it, which side was against the ball, which way the threads run, none of it. It even shot to the same point of aim as my old patch material. The only thing I noticed was the edge of the patches were not as frayed as my old patches were.

I am starting to think that for a plain old hunting gun folks are trying to make old timey muzzleloading as complicated as rocket science, and I don't think it needs to be. I have no desire to shoot competitively, so as long as I can take either of my 50's and kill a white tail dead inside of 100 yards, I am good with that. Same thing with my 32 cal. If I can go out and fire 7 or 8 shots and bring back a half a dozen or so squirrels, I am happy. I may shoot a fun match, but that is as far as I ever care to take my shooting, or my guns. No need for complicated rituals to do any of that.

Best wishes,

Joe

[oldracer]

Having read this 4 or 5 times and trying to digest what the hell the difference in thread direction will make on a ROUND ball in a round muzzle would make has me thinking it is one of those wives tales. I also wonder about the finish, which side is against the ball and such since one ignition starts it is probably all starting to melt into one piece of fabric?????? Sort of like Doug Knoell told me that he would routinely tell folks he beat that he NEVER had the side of his milk carton wads facing the bottom of the bullet or it caused accuracy issues.......then he'd laugh like hell!

[405]

I have used pillow ticking for most PRBs for a long time. Never paid too much attention to orientation or which side faces up or down. The handiest thing about the stripes is that they make for nice guide lines when cutting strips of the best width for different calibers. I use patch strips and cut at the muzzle. I also wash fresh ticking really well to take out sizing- that does help loading, cutting at muzzle and consistency.

[Good Cheer]

OK, maybe this comment really isn't going to be totally applicable because it's about a .69 rifle that has minie ball style three groove shallow rifling. The lands and grooves are of equal width. When you try to load round ball the patch is pulled in three directions 120 degrees apart. The cloth is a 90 degree construct being pulled three ways. Doesn't work with that much cloth being gathered up around that big of a ball. If it had round ball style rifling it would be much simpler to shoot round ball in it. But, I reckon that's a no brainer, huh?

[405]

3 groove bores? huh, hadn't thought of that but could have an effect. I know my early 7 groove Zouave bore doesn't care which way the patch is layed. Never tested it in a 30 cal 2 groove 03A3 bore though :)

[dualsport]

I'm consistent about orienting the patch, but more by chance than intent. I cut it into strips wide enough for each caliber I'm using. It's easier to cut along the lines of the pillow ticking. Then I rub secret lube all over the strip and roll it up finished side IN and put it in an old snuff can. Let it soak and age a bit. When I pull it out to load it hits the muzzle the same way each time, no effort required. Accuracy and consistency go hand in hand. Won a little stuff and such so can't be too bad. I'm thinking why not? You're careful to pack down that ball the same each time, right? But is it a big deal? Have to do a test to see.

[Boerrancher]

. Accuracy and consistency go hand in hand. Won a little stuff and such so can't be too bad. I'm thinking why not? You're careful to pack down that ball the same each time, right? But is it a big deal? Have to do a test to see.

Yesterday I shot a bunch out of my TC Hawken. The first 3 shot group is was careful about how I oriented the ticking patch, and at 50 yards had a nice clover leaf, about an inch in over all diameter. The next 3 shot group I made sure the patch was different each time, one even reversed. I still had a 3 shot group the same size as the first. From then on for the next 2 groups I did the same thing, no patching was identical. My shot groups stayed the same, except for the last group and the second shot was way out. I knew it was out when the rifle went off as the sights were not where I wanted them to be.

Best wishes,

Joe

[Geraldo]

I'm testing Dutch Schoultz's methods right now, but which way the the stripes go doesn't matter a bit.

Do be aware that all ticking is not the same thickness. The stuff I buy is .016-.018" thick. Take your mics with you and ignore the looks of the fabric store ladies. ;)

[Boerrancher]

I'm testing Dutch Schoultz's methods right now)

I spent a couple hours on his website reading everything I could. I decided yesterday to try his cleaning method, since I was using my T/C that didn't cost me anything. I will not let it go for days with out checking it. I will check it daily for about a week or until I shoot it again which ever comes first. Since Dutch only lives less than an hour from me and we have the same humid weather, if his cleaning method works for him it should work for me. I know it was quick compared to what I had been doing. If it works out like Dutch says it does, I will post my results here and share them. I think I used 6 cleaning patches, and it took longer to wipe down the outside of the rifle and clean the nipple than it did the bore.

Best wishes,

Joe

[Hanshi]

Well, I guess I just use the "Hanshi" method. I don't worry one way or another about patch/thread/etc, direction. I'm lazy; I just like to load and shoot. The way I shoot I couldn't tell the difference between an accurate and an inaccurate rifle if my life depended on it.:violin:

[7of7]

Yeah, I've heard that before. Always orient the patch so the finished side doesn't touch the barrel.

And, I've heard that foolish consitency is the hobgoblin of the little mind.

Remeber to wash that ticking in a washing machine with side to side agitation, too.

:>)

Oh man.... I forgot to wash the ticking before I made a bunch of patches..

Is that bad?

[waksupi]

Put them in a cloth bag, and wash them a few times.

[PanaDP]

Isn't that really thin for patch fabric?

[Boerrancher]

Isn't that really thin for patch fabric?

I shoot a .495 ball in all of my 50 cals, so the thinner the better. My only concern at first was that it would burn through, but it didn't. All of my guns are hunting guns, and I like to be able to reload them multiple times without swabbing the barrel, which means I don't like tight loads. I use a short starter on my 50cals but on my 32cal I like to be able to start the ball with my thumb. There is nothing worse than being surrounded by trees full of tree rats and having trouble reloading the rifle because there wasn't time to swab it and the loads are tight to start with.

Best wishes,

Joe

[SamTexas49]

Some more thoughts;

A: when shooting at the range in competition, (let's say for discussion a 50cal rifle) that shooitng a .495 RB with thin patch where quick reloading isnt an issue, versus when out hunting shooting a .490 RB with a little thicker patch ( for easier/quicker reloading ) seems sensible?

B: Patch material ? We all probably agree that a quality cotton/ pillow ticking is the common material but has anyone tried other fabrics?

I recall in an old book I read years ago " The Long Rifle" where the main character aquires Danile Boones rifle and is always using buckskin as patch material.

Buckskin ? Linen ? muslin ? Silk ?

Polyester ?( I dont think this would bhe good because of the melting of material in the barrel from the burning charge)

what say Ye ?

[waksupi]

Some more thoughts;

A: when shooting at the range in competition, (let's say for discussion a 50cal rifle) that shooitng a .495 RB with thin patch where quick reloading isnt an issue, versus when out hunting shooting a .490 RB with a little thicker patch ( for easier/quicker reloading ) seems sensible?

B: Patch material ? We all probably agree that a quality cotton/ pillow ticking is the common material but has anyone tried other fabrics?

I recall in an old book I read years ago " The Long Rifle" where the main character aquires Danile Boones rifle and is always using buckskin as patch material.

Buckskin ? Linen ? muslin ? Silk ?

Polyester ?( I dont think this would bhe good because of the melting of material in the barrel from the burning charge)

what say Ye ?

I don't know where the silk ever came from. I've heard it mentioned before, and did try it out years ago. Not very satisfactory, blew patches regularly.

Irish linen is a very good weave for patches, but finding it, plus the expense is almost not worth it.

I've used thin brain tanned patches, and they worked well. I used one of them eleven times before I finally lost it. You could be pretty frugal with patching material!

Muslin is what the commercial pre-lubed patches are. It comes in several thicknesses, and makes a lot more sense to buy, than the commercial pre-cut patches, if you are going to use that thin of material.

[grullaguy]

Some more thoughts;

A: when shooting at the range in competition, (let's say for discussion a 50cal rifle) that shooitng a .495 RB with thin patch where quick reloading isnt an issue, versus when out hunting shooting a .490 RB with a little thicker patch ( for easier/quicker reloading ) seems sensible?

B: Patch material ? We all probably agree that a quality cotton/ pillow ticking is the common material but has anyone tried other fabrics?

I recall in an old book I read years ago " The Long Rifle" where the main character aquires Danile Boones rifle and is always using buckskin as patch material.

Buckskin ? Linen ? muslin ? Silk ?

Polyester ?( I dont think this would bhe good because of the melting of material in the barrel from the burning charge)

what say Ye ?


Some of the guys I shoot with swear by aircraft fabric. It tried it and wasn't impressed. True, it is super durable but it did not carry enough lube for me and I had fouling. They were using moose milk, so that is almost certainly the difference. I prefer to shoot my gun on the range with the same lube as I hunt with.

I tried a polyester blend coverall fabric. It did not burn through, but the synthetic did not carry lube well either. I tried thin denim and it works okay, but my preferred material is the same cotton material found in Khaki pants. I like anything from .016" to .020" thick, depending on which gun I am using. They have their preferences as well.

[Boerrancher]

I have used muslin and didn't have a problem with it. I just prefer the super tight weave of the pillow ticking. I still use muslin for patching material from time to time. It does seem to hold a bit more lube than the pillow ticking. When I go out later to day to play with my 32 cal I my interchange the two materials and see how it affects the accuracy. In my 32 I doubt there will be much difference because the little rifle is pretty forgiving.

Best wishes,

Joe