How do I get lead off of my mold?

[ian45662]

Some how I got lead on the insides of my mold blocks and it won't close all the way and it wont seem to come off. How do you guys get the stuck lead from your mold? Would a propane touch hurt the mold?

[Mk42gunner]

I try to keep a torch as far away from my molds as I can.

What I do when I get lead stuck to the mold face is (assuming an iron block) scrape it with a flatened cartridge mouth, the brass shouldn't hurt the iron mold block. If it doesn't work with everything cold, the nest time I am casting I will preheat the mold as usuall by dipping it in the pot, then scrape the errant lead with the brass case. That usually does the trick.

Robert

[ian45662]

great idea!!! Thanks

[Le Loup Solitaire]

An often recommended method is to have the mold at casting temperature or slightly above and to rub the smear with coarse cloth such as burlap. Some folks also bring the flame from a torch momentarily up to the smear, get it soft and then wipe with coarse cloth. Yet another trick and this can be done cold is to rub the smear with the corner of an ingot; the ingot corner will pick up the smear. it takes some elbow grease, but it works. A propane torch will not hurt the mold if you just keep it in/on the lead smear for just a moment....you are not trying to get the whole mold block hot.... just enough to soften the smear so you can wipe it away. LLS

[Catshooter]

If it's an iron block I use a brass brush, about the size of a toothbrush. A cotton rag also works well.

Welcome to the site Ian.


Cat

[L Ross]

Like MK42gunner I keep a couple of 30-30 cases next to my casting area with the case mouths flattened and then filed to a bevel scraper edge. I can even clean out a vent line if need be. A 30-30 is long enough to keep me from accidently touching the mould.

Duke

[clodhopper]

Wow the case mouth idea is a good one, I have been useing a popscicle stick on hot moulds, it works, but brass scraper with a corner to get into air vents is another level.

[OD#3]

I just touch a piece of beeswax to the smear on the hot mold--just enough to melt a very small amount and wet the area of the smear. Then I brush it briskly with a brass brush. For some reason, the wax makes the lead smear "let go", and the brass brush just wipes it off. Takes maybe 5-10 brush strokes. Be very frugal with the wax, though. Any excess can flow into the cavity, and then you'll have wrinkled bullets until that burns off.

[Mal Paso]

I just touch a piece of beeswax to the smear on the hot mold--just enough to melt a very small amount and wet the area of the smear. Then I brush it briskly with a brass brush. For some reason, the wax makes the lead smear "let go", and the brass brush just wipes it off. Takes maybe 5-10 brush strokes. Be very frugal with the wax, though. Any excess can flow into the cavity, and then you'll have wrinkled bullets until that burns off.

Just tried some of Randyrat's Bee's Wax on my brass 503 and it works Better than anything I've ever used.

Thank You OD#3

MP Sprue Plate Lube and Bullplate too are better on Steel Sprue Plates

[John Boy]

Won't close - sounds like the lead is in the vent lines
Wet with Kroils or Eezox to break the adhesion. Then scrap out with a razor blade or sharp pointed dental tool

[popper]

Wood toothpic on alum mould, cold.