Rem 760 gamemaster accuracy issues.

[southpaw]

I am having trouble with my 760 grouping less than 4" at 100 yards. On occasion it has given me a group that is ~1.5"(this has only happened 2-3 times) but then I get others that closer resemble patterns. I have tried many different loads in it (jacketed) and have changed the mounts, rings and scope. I have fired a couple hundred rounds trying to figure it out. I clean it after every 20 shots (like all my rifles). I use sweets or cr10 to get the copper out, the rest is done with hoppes.

I have tried sb dies and fl dies with no noticeable difference between them.

My last group started out good then opened up. It is ~ 2.25" wide by ~4.5" long (15 shots). Others have been at least 4-5" wide and 4-5" high. Some closer to 6" [smilie=b:

I was wondering if there is any advice that the experts couple give me. I have been messing with it for the last several years and have not had any luck getting groups.

I will see if I can get pictures of some of the targets this evening. Right now it is bed time for me (gotta love swing shifts :groner:).

Thanks

Jerry Jr.

Edit: it's a 30-06

[kenyerian]

It's been a while since I've had one but if the barrel has any play it you may have to take it to a gunsmith to take it apart , clean it and the barrel extension throughly and reassemble. The barrel is not screwed directly into the reciever but into the barrel extension. If every thing is not very clean and tightened properly than it won't shoot a respectable group. I would reccomend that you do not try taking it apart yourself unless you have a vise with padded jaws and a lot of patience. The 760 is great for deer hunting and I hope you get it working.

[excess650]

I've only owned (1) 760 and it was a 30-06. Truthfully, it was OK but an honest 1.5"-2.25" rifle. It kicked like the proverbial mule, so I sold or traded it.

I've shot other 760s that were far more accurate and consistent than mine was. My brother's 6mm is an honest sub MOA every time its benched. I've shot 270s that nipped on its heels and know of 30-06s that were close.

Yours sounds like one of those that "doesn't shoot". Unless you're absolutely in love with it, I would just trade it off.

BTW, I'm assuming that when you shoot that you ARE NOT RESTING ON THE BARREL, or pulling on a sling attached to the barrel. Its not hard to make a barrel spring with a little pressure.

[Gtek]

Cleaning from the muzzle is a whole different ball game IMHO. By the time patch gets to forcing cone area- not much solvent left. Try plugging in chamber and gas ports soak bore for a day or two. Or try aggressive(amonia base carefully) for I bet bunches of aqua patches. #1-Re-cut muzzle to remove doubt. #2- tight patch and feel for "spots", if so-lap. #3- check jump, try .010"-.015" on reloads, batch mild-batch wild, chase winner. Find your hand-hold on forearm and use that point for bag off bench. I have never seen a couple fire lap shots hurt anything, changes nothing and have woke a couple up. Good Luck. Gtek

[bobthenailer]

Ive only loaded for 2 , 308 and 30/06 both were pretty new and both would group in the 2 to 1 1/2 range at 100 yards . both were SB sized.
Only shoot 3 shot groups & let the barrel cool down

[CJR]

Southpaw,

I have a 760 in 300 Savage. Here's what I've found using SB and FL resizing dies. As the fired case enters the resizing die, the case body is the first to be sized down. As the case moves up into the die, the case body gets sized down more and the shoulder moves forward. Then at the end of the sizing operation, the die is supposed to push the shoulder back to its proper location. Unfortunately, some case shoulders have spring-back and some case shoulders have no spring-back and the shoulders end up being located just about anywhere. Some shoulders are forward of the headspace location, and some shoulders are behind the headspace location. End result? Headspace is all over and accuracy suffers.

The headspace of the loaded rounds need to be checked so the shoulders are 0.002" to 0.003" under the headspace of a fired case. How? Buy a Sinclair Bump Gage (749-011-959SB @ $15.95) and an insert for your caliber (@$9.95). With a Dial caliper and these tools, you can check all your loaded ammo to make sure the shoulders are properly located relative to a fired case's headspace (i.e. which is close to chamber headspace).

I've actually taken a fired case, measured shoulder location and resized the SAME case a number of times and kept measuring shoulder location after each resizing. Every resizing/measurement, of the same case, gave me a different shoulder location. I doubt seriously that the internal dimensions of the die were changing. Likewise, I doubt my press had that amount of play. Case headspace has to be consistent for good accuracy.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

CJR

[southpaw]

Thanks for the responce guys! I will try some the next time I take it out.

The last groups that I shot with it was a 15 shot group. 8 of the first 10 shots are in about a 2" group. The other 2 shots opened the group up to 6" or so (hit lower). 4 of the last 5 shots landed lower by the other 2 shots with the other mixed in (it was getting hard to keep track of all the holes.

The next time I take it out I will make it a point to only shoot 2-3 shots and then let it sit for a bit. I think I wll also take my Dads 760 out and try some of the loads in it to make sure that they will shoot. And it looks like there is another tool that I will be getting. Thanks CJR! One thing I can say about the sb sized cases is that they are a little easier to close in the chamber.

My thoughts so far have been that something must be loose. Some of the targets that I have shot have a couple shots together here then a couple over there then a one there and so on. I am not sure what it could be tho.

Jerry Jr.

[Wolfer]

I have two early 760s. 1 is a 30-06 the other was a 270 until it shot out now it's a 338-06.
I spent several years trying to get the 06 to shoot a little better. Mine shot just like yours. First couple shots good next three not so bad then they would walk right off the paper.

My conclusion was the brace between the forearm support and the barrel was acting like a heat sink and bending my barrel down slightly. I removed it because the newer ones don't have it and I could shoot all day but it still didn't shoot as good as I would like.
I finally happened on a load it liked that the book said was going 2800 fps with 165 Sierra . I was happy, the gun was happy and many deer fell to this combo. But one day I got a chronograph and tested my pet loads. To my dismay they were only going 2500 fps. When I didn't know any better I hunted with confidence and the deer I shot didn't seem to be aware that I was using an inferior load.
Over the next few years I learned a few things about the gun. First shot at the crack of dawn will land in the same place every time, it shoots better with the forearm brace installed, you get two or three shots before it heats up, it works best with faster powders and lower velocitys of say 2550 or so.
I now shoot the 311041 @ 1700 fps and see a lot of 3 shot groups under an inch@ 100.
10 shot groups hover around 2 inch.
Good luck in your endeavor

[Rico1950]

"I hunted with confidence and the deer I shot didn't seem to be aware that I was using an inferior load".
?????????????????????????????????

[Wolfer]

Rico 1950
What I finally realized was that a 165 gr bullet @ 2500 fps doesn't have to apologize to any deer. It just took me a while to learn it.

[frnkeore]

I agree with most of whats been said. My best load is 48 gr 4064 (it's a old M1 match load) and a Sierra 168 or any hunting 165. I've gotten 5/8 groups @ 100 with this load. Seated just back of the rifling. It runs right about 2600 in a 22" 7600 barrel.

Do take the barrel support off it and make sure the jacketed fouling is removed.

Frank