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aus71383
04-03-2007, 04:18 PM
Right now all I have to reload for is my .45 ACP, my .40 S&W, and my .44 Magnum. However, it won't be too long before I'll be reloading for a 10mm, .45-70, and .308 as well. And thats just the near future.

So basically I want to be able to reload almost anything. I'm not too interested in speed of production, but I am interested in accuracy and economy. I have a couple reloading manuals, and loadbooks for my current calibers as well. Also am reading the ABCs of Reloading. Oh and I have calipers as well.

I want the Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler, Hornady Chamfer and Deburring Tool, Hornady Cam-lock Case Trimmer, Redding Case Preparation Kit, Frankfor Arsenal Case Neck Lubricator, Redding Case Lube Kit, Hornady Hand Held Priming Tool, Redding Match Grade 3BR Powder Measure, Redding #5 Powder Trickler, Lyman Electronic Scale Powder Funnel Pan, Lyman 1000 XP Electronic Scale, and Redding 700 Ultramag Single Stage Press.

I thought it would be prudent to ask opinions and advice from experienced reloaders before I buy it all. So please, if you have any experiences with these particular products, or recommendations regarding them, don't hesitate to post your thoughts and opinions.

Also, I would like some advice on reloading benches, recommendations on dies, and anything else you think might help me out getting started on reloading.

I just had a hernia surgery yesterday so I'll be laid up for a while - paid vacation is nice...hopefully the pain will subside soon. If I seem jumbled just blame it on the Vicodin. Thanks all!

buck1
04-03-2007, 06:21 PM
Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler--Good choice

, Hornady Chamfer and Deburring Tool ---good

, Hornady Cam-lock Case Trimmer - ?-I have a lyman & forester, The Lyman with the power adapter is pretty quick.

, Redding Case Preparation Kit --A lube pad & primer pocket cleaner and above trimmer would work fine.

, Frankfor Arsenal Case Neck Lubricator--I twist the necks on a lube pad.

, Redding Case Lube Kit --I use rcbs lube pad.

, Hornady Hand Held Priming Tool.--- should work well, LEEs works suprisingly well.

, Redding Match Grade 3BR Powder Measure--Good

, Redding #5 Powder Trickler--Great

, Lyman Electronic Scale Powder Funnel Pan,Lyman 1000 XP Electronic Scale,---- A powder measure, RCBS 505 or what you like in a scale and trickler are faster and just as good. (been there done that & sold mine!). But if you do go that way, check out pact before you buy any.

and Redding 700 Ultramag Single Stage Press. -good choice

Thats just MY opinion.
Keep in mind that the best selling fishing lures were not made to catch fish but fishermens $$.
There are a lot of answers to the questions never asked out there, and they aint cheep.
Happy shopping!.......Buck
PS This place is one of the cheeper ones...............WWW.wideners.com


OOPS!! ................ WELCOME TO castboolits!!!

garandsrus
04-03-2007, 06:40 PM
aus71383,

Welcome to the site. I didn't see any molds mentioned :) They will probably follow your other purchases...

The ABCs of Reloading is a pretty good book!

Keep in mind that with the calibers you mentioned, the only one's that will require trimming are the .308 and possibly 45-70 (I don't have one so I don't know for sure).

Most folks don't trim pistol cases, but I am sure it's done by someone... The chamfer tool etc is only used after a trimming.

Frankford Arsenal Case Neck Lubricator - I have loaded thousands of rifle cases (.223, 30 carbine, 30-30, 30-06, 6.5x55, 7.5x55, 375 Win, 35 Rem) and have never used a case neck lubricator. I use a spray lube of lanolin and alcohol which is equivalent to what Dillon (www.dillonprecision.com) sells. When you spray it on the cases, some gets into the case necks.

I want the Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler, Hornady Chamfer and

Dies - Lee are cheap and work fine. Their factory crimp die is very nice. I have Dillon, RCBS, and Lee dies.

You may want to get a "case gauge" for the various calibers, especially the .308. It allows you to set your sizing die properly. For the pistols you can just take the barrel off and use it as a case gauge. You can also use your rifle as a gauge to set the sizing die to where the bolt just closes without resistance. This is a trial and error process where you keep sizing down a little at a time trying the case after each sizing.

You might consider a progressive press. You can use it as a single stage press while you are learning how to load and then when you are comfortable, you can use it as a progressive.

John

MT Gianni
04-03-2007, 07:19 PM
I have a LY 1200 elec. scale and powder measure and trust it but would not be without a balance beam scale. I find it easier to use for 5 rounds to "check and see what this will do at the range".Warm up on an Elec. scale is 30 min. Gianni

Bret4207
04-03-2007, 07:39 PM
I wouldn't bother with the powder trickler, electric scale and I'd go with a less expensive, maybe used press and spend the extra on components and moulds. Just my opinion. You do what you want. All the stuff you mentioned is good.

danski26
04-03-2007, 07:50 PM
You can delete all the lube purchases and get imperial sizing die wax. A bit on your fingers lubes lots of cases. No pads, no liquids and no sprays.

Good choice on the press. i wish i bought an ulta mag for my first press. I'm looking for one now but they are expensive. I havn't found many used ones for sale either.

I have the hornady case trimmer and it works ok. Same with the hornady priming tool.

You mentioned 308 win. Are you going to be getting into match shooting or just plinking and hunting with the 308?

Dies i stick with redding for rifle and hornady for pistol. Nothing wrong with RCBS, Wilson, Dillon or Lyman dies though.

aus71383
04-03-2007, 08:42 PM
Thank you all for your advice and recommendations.

I shoot my pistols for recreation for the time being, the .44 is for hunting but living in southern california on a military base has its limitations. My next pistols will be 10mm and .45 Colt, my next rifle will be a .45-70 lever action for hunting, then a M1A which I intend target shooting and hunting with. I'm really looking forward to developing accurate and powerful (enough) loads and taking my time with it.

From what I've read about bullet casting online and in the ABCs of Reloading it sounds like something I couldn't get away with on base - and quite an investment up front too. Also since there is Cast Performance Bullets and Beartooth Bullets I can trust them and get the basics down pat before I try making my own. Just what I've been thinking. I love the science aspect, and I'd be that guy trimming pistol brass to the .001 just to try to make it as perfect and consistent as possible.

My thoughts are a little jumbled right now and I don't know what else I was going to say. Thanks for your responses!

Mk42gunner
04-03-2007, 09:47 PM
1. I agree with Bret, the powder trickler is unnecessary, an old spoon works better and faster.

2. A set of Lee powder dippers are handy to have around.

3. An RCBS stuck case remover will be appreciated the first time you forget to lube rifle cases while sizing and rip the rim off of a case. For a cheaper solution; you can get a 1/4-20 tap, #3 drill, bolt and washer. Use a 3/8 drfive socket that fits over the case head for the spacer.

I used to cast in my garage on base; don't ask-don't tell.

Good Luck

Robert

GP100man
04-03-2007, 09:54 PM
aus: frankford arsenal tumbler kit is on sale this month us.$49.99
at midwayusa.com.

GP100man

montana_charlie
04-03-2007, 10:31 PM
I recently became convinced that the L.E. Wilson case trimmer is the best way to go...especially if you are picky about 'square' case mouths.
CM

aus71383
04-08-2007, 08:16 PM
i'm not sure yet what i'm picky about, but i've placed my order and i'm happily awaiting the arrival of my new equipment!
I intend loading up some plinking rounds using titegroup for the .40, .45, and .44, and some hotter rounds using longshot for the .40 and .45, and h110 for the .44. wish me luck! i should have the stuff within the week.
Austin

wiljen
04-08-2007, 08:31 PM
All of the equipment you listed is good stuff and I cannot take exception to any of it. I do see 3 omissions that I think no reloader should be without.

1.) a good dial micrometer

2.) a good dial linear caliper

3.) a chronograph


I wouldn't be without these things.

aus71383
04-08-2007, 08:42 PM
the calipers i have, and i intend using them often.
the micrometer i don't have, and maybe i'm a bit inexperienced but what would i use it for?
a chronograph is on my list, but since the only place available to me to shoot is an indoor range i might delay that a bit.

wiljen
04-08-2007, 08:45 PM
The micrometer is a way to measure case expansion, a poor mans measure of pressure, granted it is not a strain gauge but it can be used to compare factory ammo to handloads and is a reasonable approximation of pressure.

aus71383
04-08-2007, 09:00 PM
great now i have to admit to my wife that i don't know everything and i need to order something else! thanks! :)

wiljen
04-08-2007, 09:44 PM
According to SWMBO here, you should have just asked your wife and she could have told you that at the outset and saved you the pain of this realization.

floodgate
04-08-2007, 11:14 PM
aus71383:

While the dial caliper can easily be read REPRODUCEABLY to a couple of thousandths, and once you get the "feel", to 0.001", there are times - like in case expansion, as noted above - where a couple of "tenths" (i.e., ten-thousandths) can be important. You can get import thimble-type 1" mikes with carbide faces reading to tenths for $20 - $25 from most of the "hobbyists' porn" catalogs, and digitable readout models for only a bit more. If you don't get one, sooner or later you'll wish you had.

Two points to remember:

1) Take time to learn how to hold the mike properly, with the bow in your palm, little finger through the bow opening, fourth and middle supporting the bow and barrel, and spin the thimble with thumb and first finger, holding the workpiece in your left; PRACTICE controlling the pressure until you can read the same workpiece to +/- 0.0001" consistently;

2) "Park" both dial calipers and mikes with the jaws slightly open, and keep stored in box or slip-case when not in use; and make SURE the anvil faces are clean (a swipe with a clean finger tip is good; a fresh shop rag or towel is better) before measuring.

After my 12-oz rawhide mallet, these are the two tools I reach for in my (VERY amateur!) shop most frequently.

floodgate

LAH
04-09-2007, 06:11 PM
3. An RCBS stuck case remover will be appreciated the first time you forget to lube rifle cases while sizing and rip the rim off of a case. For a cheaper solution; you can get a 1/4-20 tap, #3 drill, bolt and washer. Use a 3/8 drfive socket that fits over the case head for the spacer.

maybe used press and spend the extra on components

YES & YES............Welcome to the board...................Creeker