I have a project I need to get around to finishing, guidence needed.

[boltons75]

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc431/sbolton36/smoke%20sticks/IMAG0059.jpg

I received this 50 cal flint lock pistol from my uncle back in 93' as a high school graduation present from my uncle, in its current condition. We were planning on finishing it together, but jobs and girls put it on the back burner back then. And unfortunately he passed away at the age of 44, from an unexpected stroke, and we were never able to finish it. This has been in the back of my gun safe for way too long now, and I feel a need to finish this the way he wanted it done.

I inherited his 54 cal Hawkin, hand made muzzleloader and will attach a link to photos of it so you can get an idea of his craftsmanship. The only thing he didnt make by hand on the rifle was the G. Mountain barrel.

Now i know the gun needs the dovetails cut for the sights, I need a set of sights that will look right on the pistol. His plan was to build a sweat box and brown, "rust" the gun for a finish. I know that the frizzen still needs to be hardened, should this be done before the rust process? The flash hole hasnt been drilled, and that I am assuming is an after finish process. Other misc. things, finish the stock, he had only roughed it out. The oval plates behind the barrel pins I need to get ahold of.

I would appreciate any suggestions from some of you guys that have built your own, especially on the rusting process. My wife works at Kettering University and I think I can have one of the techs mill the barrel for the sights, rather than using the hack saw method for the dovetails. I will also get some better photos of the rifle he built, the lighting in these arent the greatest.

Here is a link to the photos
http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc431/sbolton36/smoke%20sticks/

[El Bango]

Try Track of the Wolf for your sights, wedge plates and screws and also some inletting chisels.They also have a good assortment of browning and stock finishing pruducts.Get their catalog and Dixie Gun Works catalog and take some time planning your job.Enjoy ,Michael

[405]

That flint pistol looks like most of the major work is done. The picture doesn't show everything but it looks like you'll need 4 small oval, iron wedge escutcheons & 8 small slot head screws for that job. The pistol looks to have all iron furniture so stay with iron for extra parts. The escutcheons will have to be inletted... probably level with or a hair deeper than the current surface of the wood. You'll file and sand to final shape with the escutcheons in place. The rear sights on those pistols were generally very small, simple types. The front sights were likewise usually fairly simple.... some were only a peg that was staked into a hole in the barrel. Also consider that if it is a smoothbore- many had no sights at all at most just the simple front peg. All the metal, especially the rough cast parts will have to be smoothed. Sanding drum on a power tool can save a bunch of labor if some of the parts are really rough cast. Some file work on the metal may be required. All followed by hand-held 320-400 grit sandpaper/emery cloth. Sweat boxes will work but have to be set up right and they take time with controlled temp. and humidity. Actually B-C Plum Brown if applied correctly with the right amount of heat is nearly as good. And yes, it's best to wait til nearly the end of finishing before drilling the flash hole. For the frizzen I'd polish the strike surface fairly smooth then use a torch and hardening compound to prep the surface. The frizzen will take on quite a bit of dark color during the hardening process.

Track of the Wolf sells most all the extra parts you'll need. Call and maybe ask them if they have a recommended how-to brochure or book on building and finishing muzzleloaders.

[waksupi]

Harden the frizzen before finishing the metal. Same with drilling the vent, do it before finish work.
The estucheons behind the barrel keys are not necessary, unless you really want them.
Stay away from buckhorn sights. Use a wide one on the front for best results.

[405]

It's best to drill the vent hole after final fit so you can make SURE the thing is in the right place. Also, I see couple of holes already drilled in the wood that may be for mounting escutcheons for the front wedge? (although they look a little mis-aligned). If you don't use escutcheons, those holes will still be there.

[Bullet Caster]

I cannot add anythin' to help ya, but I wanted to say that that is a nice looking flinter even before finishing. I've always wanted a .50 flintlock pistol to go with my Pedersoli .50 flintlock. Good luck on your endeavor. And let's see some finished pics. BC

[boltons75]

It's best to drill the vent hole after final fit so you can make SURE the thing is in the right place. Also, I see couple of holes already drilled in the wood that may be for mounting escutcheons for the front wedge? (although they look a little mis-aligned). If you don't use escutcheons, those holes will still be there.

Those holes you see are where the ram rod guide pieces are pinned in place.

[boltons75]

As for the vent hole, he had already center punched its placement. I was under the impression that it was to be drilled out after to keep the rust out of the bore of the barrel. But, that's why I am asking for the guidance of you guys.

I am also trying to get photos of a blunderbuss he built, and another black powder pistol he built for reference purposes.