New Blackhawk and having some issues, please help!

[newton]

Picked up a blackhawk last week. 45colt/acp. Just shooting colts for now. Shot it for the first time tonight. I have only put a couple dozen rounds through before I decided I needed to regroup and think.

First and foremost is the fact that it no longer is easy to decock. Before I shot it I could lay the hammer down after a gentle squeeze of the trigger. Now it goes to half cock(?) and only goes on down if I push hard on the hammer. I can see what is catching it, but don't know why all of a sudden.

As for the first thoughts some might have that I put some heavy loads in and let her rip, that is not the case. They were all light to medium loads. 8 grains max on unique and also with some herco. 255 grain lee boolit.

Second issue, which more will probably have advise about is the groups were horrendous. I was elated when I first sat down and fired the first shot, but after putting all the more I was sickened with each pull of the trigger. 12" groups or better at 25 yards. I guess if I was using it for self defense it would do, but I got it to shoot cans and such, not watermelons.

Really though, the first issue I would love to figure out. The second issue will entail some discussion which I will elaborate more on tomorrow. Thanks guys.

[Jtarm]

I can't speak to the action roughness, but for accuracy, slug you chamber throats and forcing cone (the un-rifled part of the barrel.)
I once had an OM BH in .45 LC with throats smaller than the forcing cone, guarantying poor cast Boolit accuracy. I opened the throats and it shot much better, but not good enough to keep me from trading it off.

[Four Fingers of Death]

UNload the gun (D'Oh! Obvious, but I had to say it). Hold it up and shake it listening for a chiped bit floating about which may have broken off a pawl, notch or similar. I hope you don't hear this (Just dumb luck, but I have never had a problem with a Ruger, apart from a slightly damaged screw (the big one on the side). The gorrilla that assembled it used the same sized screwdriver for the two small screws and the big oneand a ROA that locked up as soon as you started to cock it. Part stripped it a few times, no luck drove 120miles down to my Black Powder and single action gunsmith. He fully stripped it, couldn't find anything amiss and re assembled it, works like a charm. It was a new gun (easier to fix things yourself in Australia generally) and maybe something was installed incorrectly, went unnoticed when my guy stripped it and he would have put it back together correctly.

The manual that came in the box with the gun willl show you how to strip it. It also has a trouble shooting section from memory althought I don't think this would be covered.

When you strip it, carefully check for sharp edges, scratches, etc as well as checking all of the notches and part for chipping, breakage.

Short of a bit of grunge floating around (hopefully that will be it), it sure don't sound right.

Normally Blackhawks are pretty bombproof, but are like CHinese food. No sooner do you buy one and you feel like another!

[Nazgul]

Remove the grips and check the springs. Make sure the cylinder pin is in the frame completely.

Don

[newton]

Slugging is next on my list. I actually figured I would have to do it before I even bought the gun. I researched it before deciding on the 45. I was wanting a 357, but like the fact that maybe(and sometimes maybe not - pipe dream) with a little work the 45 would be a god shooter.

I am going to say the throats are smaller. All the leading is right at the cone. After that just a tad down the barrel. I did not realize how much lead would accumulate so quickly. That also added to the displeasure.

I bought the gun specifically because it's touted as a tank. But I guess tanks have weaknesses. I have shaken it and hear nothing but the pawl or transfer bar move. Then I did go ahead with disassembly. For those that are contemplating this I have a word of advice - read the instructions. I did not. I did not pin the mainspring. It took a while, but I figured they had to have put the gun together somehow so it could be done. I got it done. But I cleaned the bugger out of it while it was apart. I'll get the diagram out but I know exactly where it's hanging up.

[Nobade]

Is this one of the really new ones with the lock? Make sure it is working right if it is. Also, did you put the hammer strut in backward? It's easy to do and the gun won't work right if you do.

And if the cylinder throats are less than .452" it's not going to shoot for beans and will show pressure early.

[newton]

Is this one of the really new ones with the lock? Make sure it is working right if it is. Also, did you put the hammer strut in backward? It's easy to do and the gun won't work right if you do.

And if the cylinder throats are less than .452" it's not going to shoot for beans and will show pressure early.

Yes it does have the lock. It is working. I'll check the strut again, but I am almost positive I put it back right. However, it was doing this before I took it apart. I think I have it figured out though. I am going to call Ruger in a little bit to get some advise.

Yea, I have a hesitancy to whack a lead ball through the throats and cylinder, but I am betting your right. I took my calipers, which are not the highest or the lowest quality, and I am reading .451 and if tweak it a little it starts to creep up to .452". I am guessing that will be my first step in the accuracy department. I will reluctantly drive a lead ball in them, but it will hurt me inside with every whack of the hammer.

[runfiverun]

just use a sized boolit and wiggle it in the throats from the front of the cylinder.
you'll know right quick if they will go in.
then you can check the threads under the frame for a tight spot

[newton]

Ok, just talked to Ruger. They are sending me a ups pickup for it. Hopefully I'll have it back in 2 weeks. Kind of hard to let it go like this, but seeing how much money I spent on it I have to do something about it. I wonder if they would ream the cylinders for me while they have it....lol. I guess it would not hurt to ask huh?

Anyways, I am almost positive what is going on. There are two pictures below. One is the hammer down, one is it cocked. The red circle is the hammer plunger. It has a spring behind it and a roll pin that keeps it captive. The red arrow is the cylinder latch assembly.

**You guys probably all know what I am going to describe, but in case someone comes along with the same issues I am going to walk through this in a very basic manner.**

What happens is that when you cock it the hammer plunger pushes the latch assembly up witch allows the backside of it to fall allowing the cylinder to rotate. Once the plunger clears, the assembly falls back down captivating the cylinder again.

What is happening is that when I let the hammer down, without firing the gun, the plunger again has to travel on top of the assembly. However, the spring inside should allow it to pass over the flat portion of the assembly and come to rest behind it. In one way or another the plunger is just not working. I am not sure if it is twisted in there, or if the spring is to strong, or what.

It worked fine, maybe a little stiff, when I got it. I am thinking that something was not lined up right or maybe some of the machined metal flakes got caught in there. I say that because when I took it apart last night there were a lot of shavings from drilling and tapping. They were not shavings from wear or anything. I know the difference. But I am just willing to bet the plunger is caught in there somehow more than anything. I do not think it is dirt. But at this moment I cannot assume anything.

42722

42723

Regardless its going to be a couple of weeks before I can play around again. Boy I sure wish I knew if they would ream the cylinders for me while they have it. I might include that in my note and see what the outcome is. I think after I get it back that's what I'll do and then do some fire-lapping to boot.

[nicholst55]

I wouldn't expect Ruger to ream the chamber throats. If the gun needs that done, you'll have to do it.

[newton]

just use a sized boolit and wiggle it in the throats from the front of the cylinder.
you'll know right quick if they will go in.
then you can check the threads under the frame for a tight spot

Actually, I did that last night. lol. I have some .452 boolits sized that I was shooting. I took one and tried to put it into the throat and it would go if I forced it, but it was not a good fit if that makes sense. I am willing to bet that they are indeed .451". I did not have a dowel with me or else I would have went ahead and drove it into the throat and then measured it, but I was not sure if it would have been as good as doing a true slug.

From what I hear, .4525" is the optimum correct? I am really, really thinking that I might ask them to do it. Even if they do charge a fee it seems that their "labor" fee's are around $35 for revolvers. I would think that to be worth it for me not to do it or to have to ship it off once again after I get it back to have someone else do it.

[newton]

I wouldn't expect Ruger to ream the chamber throats. If the gun needs that done, you'll have to do it.

I am definitely not going to expect it. It is well within their "specs" as far as I am aware. I am just curious if they would do it either as a favor, or even for a fee. I have learned a long time ago that you hope for the best, but never expect anything but the worst.

[44man]

Doesn't take much with a pure lead ball, use a brass rod.
There is a pawl and spring in the cylinder pin that pushes the transfer bar back. Either the pin moved out or the pawl is stuck. That makes the transfer bar run into the firing pin when you COCK the gun and should have no affect lowering the hammer, so I rule that out.
The hammer strut in backwards will really mess you up and could be it. The top must angle to the front.
If the grip frame was off, did the spring and pawl that pushes the hand get lost or the spring bent or cut off? Did it fall into the gun?
Is the transfer bar broken? Can you see it raise and lower as you work the hammer?

[44man]

I was a little late posting but, yes the hammer plunger could be stuck.
Good catch but since you had it all apart, it should have been easy to clean it all up.
But Ruger is paying so good!

[pdawg_shooter]

Ruger has put more custom pistol smiths children through collage than student loans have.

[newton]

Doesn't take much with a pure lead ball, use a brass rod.
There is a pawl and spring in the cylinder pin that pushes the transfer bar back. Either the pin moved out or the pawl is stuck. That makes the transfer bar run into the firing pin when you COCK the gun and should have no affect lowering the hammer, so I rule that out.
The hammer strut in backwards will really mess you up and could be it. The top must angle to the front.
If the grip frame was off, did the spring and pawl that pushes the hand get lost or the spring bent or cut off? Did it fall into the gun?
Is the transfer bar broken? Can you see it raise and lower as you work the hammer?

Cylinder pin is not the problem. Checked that, and in fact that is what Ruger Technician first suggested.

Hammer strut could be, but likely is not. However, it was doing the same thing before I ever took it apart and was the reason for taking it apart.

I made dang sure that I did not loose that little spring and pawl. They are good. Its not an issue with the gun not revolving, just de-cocking. In fact, it could be used as is because it fires flawlessly. I imagine it is because of the strength of the spring that pushes its way past the flat portion of the cylinder latch assembly.

Everything leads to one thing and I am sure they will see it pretty quick. In fact, if I had not just bought the thing and am so new to revolvers, I could buy the parts brand new to fix it at $2.49 a piece x3 from midwayusa.

The Hammer Plunger, the Hammer Plunger Spring, and the Roll Pin that captures the Hammer Plunger from falling out. Somehow or another it is simply stuck. I have tried to think of what would cause it, but I cannot. However, I am 99.99% sure that is what it is now. I would love to be there when they fix it so I can see just how it works, and what is not working.

I assume, from reading others who send things in, that they will give me a list of things repaired and/or replaced.

[newton]

I was a little late posting but, yes the hammer plunger could be stuck.
Good catch but since you had it all apart, it should have been easy to clean it all up.
But Ruger is paying so good!

Haha. Did not see this before I posted the reply to your other post. Sorry.

I really would have, and am half tempted to still do it, but I did not catch it until this morning. I brought it to let a friend look at it and feel whats going on and we started looking at the parts diagram. It was then that we realized what was going on.

Ruger is paying, and I do not like sending things back to companies when I can either repair or just use things as is, but there was no hesitation from their side in this so I am going to let them look at it. If anything, maybe it will help them keep a closer eye on this part. The gun was brand new.

Now, if I had bought it used, then yes, for sure I would have fixed it. I was really looking forward to shooting it this weekend with my brother. But it is what it is. Gives me some time to contemplate the accuracy things. I am going to slug it tonight to see where I am at then ship it off tomorrow. Hopefully when it gets back I'll be ready to move forward with what I need to do to increase the accuracy.

[newton]

Ruger has put more custom pistol smiths children through collage than student loans have.

I hear that. And I bought this gun knowing full well what might need to be done to get decent accuracy out of it. I find it fun tinkering with things, and hopefully its not going to cost me an arm and a leg to do it. I will find superb enjoyment when I get it shooting good and am able to post a picture of a good target.

I am sure that there will be all kinds of things I will do in the future, but for now I just want to be able to hit a tin can at 25 yards consistently.

[fishnbob]

Ruger has put more custom pistol smiths children through collage than student loans have.

You got that right. Look up cylindersmith and make arrangements to have him do it. I had to do that with a Ruger .45 LC/.45ACP that I bought last summer, plus I had to get Ruger to put a new barrel on it 'cause the one that came on it looked like a railroad track due to "chattering" by a worn out tool and the inspector must have failed to look down the barrel.

[44man]

Cylindersmith is GOOD.
I can't go into what I have found with many guns from full blown customs to just very expensive factory guns. They can all have problems. I just think Ruger sells so many that the percentage is higher.

[Four Fingers of Death]

I did not pin the mainspring.

I've never forgotten to pin it as I was way too scared to pull it apart without reading the instructions, but I had a brand new ROA that locked up when you started to cock it (I think I mentioned this earlier). Then I had to take the grip frame assembly off to go any further. Naturally, that left the mainspring loose.

Boy! They are fun to assemble and pin off the gun aren't they? lol

[newton]

I've never forgotten to pin it as I was way too scared to pull it apart without reading the instructions, but I had a brand new ROA that locked up when you started to cock it (I think I mentioned this earlier). Then I had to take the grip frame assembly off to go any further. Naturally, that left the mainspring loose.

Boy! They are fun to assemble and pin off the gun aren't they? lol

Yea, fun was what it was all right. haha. I about puked when I realized what I did. I wont even go into how at one point the cylinder latch spring and plunger went flying across the shop...

It took me a minute to collect myself and think. I knew they had to have done it when they were putting the gun together, but I know they must have a tool for it. What I did was open my vise for the strut to go down but the spring to rest on top. Then I placed a long allen wrench through the top hole in the strut and eased it down into the jaw, then when the bottom hole cleared I stuck a small allen wrench into it.

It was a lot less scarier than I thought it would be when I first realized. I am sure I am not the first to do it, but I bet I am not the last.

[tek4260]

Is this 45 the Flattop on the Mid frame? If so, the throats are usually pretty close to right. The smaller cylinder prevented Ruger from chambering with a gang reamer and therefore the cylinders seem to be closer to right due to the same reamer being used on all the cylinders.

As far as it locking up/binding when decocking, it pretty much has to be a chip in the latch plunger bore or possibly in the pawl plunger. Remember, the mid frames have a reverse indexing pawl therefore the pawl retracts near the bottom of the hammer travel. A complete tear down, cleaning, and lubing will probably fix it.

[newton]

Ok, got the gun shipped off today. Looking forward to hearing from Ruger, hopefully soon.

But before I shipped it I did slug it. Last night I took one of my .459 roundballs for my ML and drove her into my cylinder throats. Guess what. .4521" with a micrometer.

42774

Then I realized what I had posted earlier and did not give a second thought to it. In one of my previous posts I made a comment on how I had tried to place one of my .452 sized boolits into the throats, and how they just barely fit. So I decided to try it again. Except this time I had just got done cleaning the gun so there was no powder residue or anything like that. I took a video of it, but I cannot post that here. But if I were to describe it then what I did was place the boolit into the throat nose first and gave it a firm push. I was able to push a different boolit into all 6 throats.

Then I took one and dropped it into the chamber nose first and was able to lightly tap it out. These bullets have been tumble lubed. So, based on that, would it not be an accurate statement that my throats are sized ok for my boolits?

But then I guess what matters on top of that is my bore size. Well, I then took the slug and did the barrel. It was a tight fit at first, but then it slid down to the back off the barrel real easy. At the frame it did tighten up some, but who knows for sure. I know there are ways of checking the difference between the two ends, but the overall bore diameter seems to be the major factor.

Well, the bore diameter was .4495"-.4500". It was kind of hard to measure it with the grooves, so there were a few differences. One thing I did notice were the grooves were very shallow. I know all guns are different, but these are really shallow. I measured them with my calipers, and got .440" or there about. It just seems like .005 for land height is not much.

Now, with that in mind, it changes all my thoughts about why my accuracy was so out of whack. Here are my thoughts.

#1. I am a new big bore handgun shooter. Simply put, I am sure I need practice and if I was experienced maybe my groups would not have been so big. (were talking 18"-24")

#2. My boolits might be too hard. I used some ingots I got with my casting stuff from this gentleman. I have no idea what alloy it is. It seems pretty hard, but who knows for sure. But there was some definite gas cutting which is evident by the amount of lead at the forcing cone and not so much down the barrel. To hard boolits=not enough expansion with the mild loads I was using??

#3. Not enough lube. This I know for sure. I did not even think about it, but it makes a lot of sense. I only tumble lubed them. There is no lube "packed" into the lube groves. There is some, but more than likely not enough. This, I think(tell me what you think), is also evident from the fact that one 6 shot string I did was with like 6 grains of Unique. That load grouped the best, that is, they all went onto the paper at least.

#4. Last but not least I think I had the boolits set back to far. I am using Lee 255 grain. Last one on the right on their boolit diagram. I do not have load data specific for this boolit. But I was seeing in the Lyman manual that the oal of the round was supposed to be 1.600". So that's what I set them too. It put the crimp up above the crimp groove of the boolit. I'll have to check again, but I think that the boolit actually has to jump into the throat. I am guessing this might have some accuracy issues. I am guessing that seating the boolit out far enough to allow the front driving band to be at rest inside the throat would be a good thing???

Those are my thoughts at least. I know this is long, but I have been thinking a lot about it. And I am completely new to it. I have done a lot of research, but there is so much to learn. One other thing I want to ask about is the transition between the chamber and throat. Looking from the chamber end you can see it "step" up. It is not smooth at all. There was some lead build up on these little steps. Are the steps normal? And does lead being on them indicate something?

[newton]

Is this 45 the Flattop on the Mid frame? If so, the throats are usually pretty close to right. The smaller cylinder prevented Ruger from chambering with a gang reamer and therefore the cylinders seem to be closer to right due to the same reamer being used on all the cylinders.

As far as it locking up/binding when decocking, it pretty much has to be a chip in the latch plunger bore or possibly in the pawl plunger. Remember, the mid frames have a reverse indexing pawl therefore the pawl retracts near the bottom of the hammer travel. A complete tear down, cleaning, and lubing will probably fix it.

No, its the new model blackhawk.

[newton]

I came across something that interested me and wanted to see if anyone knows anything about it. I was looking something up and someone said that starting in 07'-08' Ruger made some "improvements" on their cylinders, they called them "improved cylinders". The way you are supposed to detect it is where the warning label is at on the gun. On the side indicates its the same cylinder design, but if the warning label is on the bottom of barrel then they are the "improved cylinders". Anyone heard of this? Because if I am thinking correctly, I would look if still had the gun with me, but I think my warning label is up underneath the barrel. So it might give some insight as to why my throats are so much larger than those who are having to ream them.

[newton]

Oh yea, forgot to add that on #2 I also water dropped all my boolits. I am guessing that might add to the inability for them to obdurate effectively at the mid range pressures I was generating??

[Nobade]

Sounds like you are well on your way to solving any issues with that revolver! And yes, soft lead is what you want for normal level 45 Colt loads. Air cooled wheelweights by themselves or with some pure lead added. Soft lube, make sure the expander in the die is not making the cases too tight and resizing the boolits, etc.

And .005" land height is very deep. 45 Colt and ACP barrels are normally .446 x .451 or .452, so .003 to .0035 land height. But not to worry, you did hear correctly and Ruger is making their sixguns far better than they did in the past. The ones with the warning on the bottom of the barrel use the same reamer to cut all the holes, rather than six different reamers. That way the chambers are all the same, and much closer to what they should be.

Keep practicing with that new revolver, and you'll have it shooting great in no time!

[newton]

Sounds like you are well on your way to solving any issues with that revolver! And yes, soft lead is what you want for normal level 45 Colt loads. Air cooled wheelweights by themselves or with some pure lead added. Soft lube, make sure the expander in the die is not making the cases too tight and resizing the boolits, etc.

And .005" land height is very deep. 45 Colt and ACP barrels are normally .446 x .451 or .452, so .003 to .0035 land height. But not to worry, you did hear correctly and Ruger is making their sixguns far better than they did in the past. The ones with the warning on the bottom of the barrel use the same reamer to cut all the holes, rather than six different reamers. That way the chambers are all the same, and much closer to what they should be.

Keep practicing with that new revolver, and you'll have it shooting great in no time!

Thanks for the info and encouragement. I'm thinking a simple 50/50 mix of beeswax and grease should do it right?

[rockshooter]

What I found helpful when working with Ruger mainsprings is an old fork. I cinch the round end of the strut in a vice, drop the spring on top, use a fork to mash the spring down, pop a small nail in to hold it all together.
Loren

[Rico1950]

The fork trick is on Cylindersmith's website along with a few more ways of doing it.

[44man]

What I found helpful when working with Ruger mainsprings is an old fork. I cinch the round end of the strut in a vice, drop the spring on top, use a fork to mash the spring down, pop a small nail in to hold it all together.
Loren
I use a crescent wrench opened just right. I change a lot of springs and it has proven easier.

[9.3X62AL]

I concur with Nobade's view that .005" land height is more than adequate for the purpose.

Once the annoying hammer issue gets resolved, ya gotta shoot that roller some more before declaring the internal dimensions to be good/bad/indifferent. Barrels can be like an old cast iron frying pan, gotta have some use before they "season" correctly. At the pressures you're running (8.0 x Unique), air-cooled WW metal is more than what's needed to do the right things.

While your revolver is at the hospital, get the mic out and see what diameter your die set's expander ball is. I'll bet it's near .447". You'll want at least .449" for .452" boolits, and .450" would be better. Otherwise, your case mouths will be reducing boolit diameter during the seating operation.

[newton]

I concur with Nobade's view that .005" land height is more than adequate for the purpose.

Once the annoying hammer issue gets resolved, ya gotta shoot that roller some more before declaring the internal dimensions to be good/bad/indifferent. Barrels can be like an old cast iron frying pan, gotta have some use before they "season" correctly. At the pressures you're running (8.0 x Unique), air-cooled WW metal is more than what's needed to do the right things.

While your revolver is at the hospital, get the mic out and see what diameter your die set's expander ball is. I'll bet it's near .447". You'll want at least .449" for .452" boolits, and .450" would be better. Otherwise, your case mouths will be reducing boolit diameter during the seating operation.

Thanks for the heads up. I am thinking I need a couple hundread down the tube before I set on anything. I am going to run a new batch of boolits, softer and air cooled. I'm gonna get a good lube set up too, then I'll load a bit and wait for her to come back home.

I am using lee's expanding die. I lets me choose what amount of flair I want. Will the case beyond the flair size them back down? I think once I run all my cases through then I will just "neck" size. I think that should help.

[leadman]

Neck sizing can cause problems sometimes, especially if there is the slightest difference in the cylinder chambers.
Crimp in the crimp groove of a dummy cartridge and insert it in the cylinder and check to make sure the boolit is not even with or beyond the end of the cylinder.
If you have a mild choke restriction where the barrel screws into the frame you can shoot a couple hundred jacketed rounds and see if that opens it up. If not you can fire-lap the bore.
When you get the gun back you may want to shoot it with some softer boolits and see what happens. Chances are the gun will shoot fine.
Use a good rest off the bench so you can tell if the gun is ok, or if you need more practice.
Rugers are good guns and Ruger stands behind them better than any other manufacturer I can think of.

[HDS]

Yes it does have the lock. It is working. I'll check the strut again, but I am almost positive I put it back right. However, it was doing this before I took it apart. I think I have it figured out though. I am going to call Ruger in a little bit to get some advise.

Yea, I have a hesitancy to whack a lead ball through the throats and cylinder, but I am betting your right. I took my calipers, which are not the highest or the lowest quality, and I am reading .451 and if tweak it a little it starts to creep up to .452". I am guessing that will be my first step in the accuracy department. I will reluctantly drive a lead ball in them, but it will hurt me inside with every whack of the hammer.

Buy a set of pin gages instead and use those to measure the throats.
http://www.gageshop.com/

Buy a few minus gages in the .450" area and see which one fits. You will need to slug the bore however and you should use pure lead or nearly so for that. When doing this also be careful to see if there is increased resistance around where the barrel is screwed into the frame. That signifies a barrel constriction and might explain your leading issues.

If the throats are fine and you have a constriction, then I would suggest fire lapping. If the throats are smaller than the bore, then ream them. Though IIRC rugers sometime come with oversized throats and then I dunno what todo...


Edit:
Reading further in the thread I see you have measured a groove size of .450" or just below to a throat size of .452" or so, so your throats are not too small and should definitely not be any bigger then!

Given what you have written about lube I would try and change just the lube first, try some pan lubing with conventional lube if your bullets have conventional lube grooves and see if that makes any difference. Best in my opinion to do small incremental changes and tick them off, so you can see what works or not.

After that I'd probably work on powder charge and alloy hardness and see if any of those make a difference. How farback in teh case you are seating your bullets should not affect accuracy from what I've read. How deep you should seat is a matter of what powder and charge you have for your bullet. Precision shooters here like to seat a wadcutter deep in the case with a very light charge of some fast powder for instance.

After that I would probably consider fire lapping if nothing has helped. Assuming there is a constriction around the frame, it's very common though on rugers. Even my smith has a slight one that I am gonna try to iron out with loads of jacketed ammo.

[Four Fingers of Death]

If not you can fire-lap the bore.

I have often thought of loading the cylinder, then filling the front of the it with a lube with a mild abrasive paste smeared over al la cap and ball cylinder and firing it. Sounds good but never been able to make myself do it.

[Nobade]

Thanks for the heads up. I am thinking I need a couple hundread down the tube before I set on anything. I am going to run a new batch of boolits, softer and air cooled. I'm gonna get a good lube set up too, then I'll load a bit and wait for her to come back home.

I am using lee's expanding die. I lets me choose what amount of flair I want. Will the case beyond the flair size them back down? I think once I run all my cases through then I will just "neck" size. I think that should help.

The flare tool won't do what you need. He is talking about the second die in your set, to be used to expand the case back up once it has been sized down. Most 45 Colt die sets come with an expander designed to give lots of neck tension on jacketed bullets. This is what you DON'T want - if it is too tight the case will size your boolits down, and they will lead the bore and shoot poorly. I personally always make new expander plugs for my dies to be NO MORE than .002" under the boolit diameter I want to shoot. Usually only .001" under, which almost allows me to seat the boolit by finger pressure. But on revolvers that is sometimes too big and lets the boolits slip out of the case on recoil. But this is important, because boolits soft enough to work right at 45 Colt velocities and pressures are soft enough to easily be resized by the case so it needs to fit properly.

[newton]

Just an update, Ruger sent the gun back to me Tuesday, should be in my hand by the end of the day.

It was a nice turn around I guess. Two weeks to the day. I am just hoping that I can get her to shoot good now.

[44man]

I have often thought of loading the cylinder, then filling the front of the it with a lube with a mild abrasive paste smeared over al la cap and ball cylinder and firing it. Sounds good but never been able to make myself do it.
I have used a "Q" tip to apply a little abrasive in the cone and rifling start. Worked fine with less mess.
If you do not want to mess with the throats, it does good. The right hardness boolit and just enough powder to make sure they exit is all you need.

[Four Fingers of Death]

I have used a "Q" tip to apply a little abrasive in the cone and rifling start. Worked fine with less mess.
If you do not want to mess with the throats, it does good. The right hardness boolit and just enough powder to make sure they exit is all you need.

Now, that would work. My old 586 has fired a truckload of cast boolits over the last 26 years (and for a few before I bought it used) and it still has a rough cone. Been meaning to do something about it for years. Tempted to send it off to S&W for a rebuild and conversion into a 4" barrel. I don't use it enough nowadays to justify much being spent on it, but it was my first centrefire when I bought it as a very well used example in 1986 and I am rather fond of it.