Pressure Nut on Lyman 450

[ColColt]

Today I was sizing some boolits and finally an out of my lube(BAC). I have a Lyman 450 and as I began turning the pressure screw to back out the pressure nut, the one with two O-rings) I finally got it to the top level of the sizer but it just kept spinning and wouldn't come out those final threads. I tried to turn it by hand with a wrench on the screw and it wouldn't budge. Finally, I poured a bit of Kroil on onto the threads and heated the stem up a little and it finally gave way to turn on out. Is there an easier way? I don't recall it being that difficult before. I guess the wax from the lube got on the threads and made turning it most difficult.

[snuffy]

Two reasons the piston would not come out. One, the threads on the shaft are stripped right at the top, or two, the piston was turning in the reservoir tube along with the shaft.

[ColColt]

Two reasons the piston would not come out. One, the threads on the shaft are stripped right at the top, or two, the piston was turning in the reservoir tube along with the shaft.

That's what it was doing. I tightened the sizer down more to the work bench to no avail.

[imashooter2]

I just use my fingers to hold the nut from spinning while turning the screw with a wrench.

[Larry Gibson]

I just use my fingers to hold the nut from spinning while turning the screw with a wrench.

+1 on all 3 of my 450s.

Larry Gibson

[Mal Paso]

A couple new O-Rings could make life better. Like $1 each + shipping.http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page150.html Fits all 3 models.

[ColColt]

A couple new O-Rings could make life better. Like $1 each + shipping.http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page150.html Fits all 3 models.

They're brand new. I bought all new parts for it after refurbishing it some months back-except for the stem. I'll try the recommendations listed above-makes sense to me. That may be awhile since I just put in a new stick of BAC.

[snuffy]

That's what it was doing. I tightened the sizer down more to the work bench to no avail.

Tightening the sizer more to the bench has nothing to do with the piston. The piston is turning WITH the threaded rod, you have to stop the piston from turning, while turning the rod.

When my lubber runs out of lube, I put a cordless drill on the ¼ hex head of the rod, use the drill to rapidly raise the piston! Got real tired of hand cranking that bugger, now it's no problemo! I also melt the lube, pour it in the top. It eliminates air pockets, makes the lube pressure more positive, and once you release pressure by backing the pressure rod out, it does NOT keep pressure on the lube because of trapped, compressed air.

[ColColt]

When my lubber runs out of lube, I put a cordless drill on the ¼ hex head of the rod, use the drill to rapidly raise the piston! Got real tired of hand cranking that bugger, now it's no problemo! I also melt the lube, pour it in the top. It eliminates air pockets, makes the lube pressure more positive, and once you release pressure by backing the pressure rod out, it does NOT keep pressure on the lube because of trapped, compressed air.

Good ideas I'll put to use next time. I nearly got arthritis turning that ratchet wrench round and around. Sine the lube was in stick form, I didn't think about melting it but if that alleviates the current problem I had another good tip to store in the memory bank...thanks.