Headspace question 1903/03-A3

[ilcop22]

Good morning,

Long story short, I have a badly bubba'd 1903 with an 03A3 barrel affixed. The bbl had been slightly turned down to fit the 1903 rear sight sleeve.

I also have a 1903-A3 stripped receiver w/bolt sleeve.

My hope was to remove the A3 bbl from the 1903 and put it on the stripped A3 receiver. The first problem is a lack of an indexing mark on the bbl thanks to bubba turning that part down. The second is that the stripped bolt does not easily close on a factory round, in this case an M2 ball cartridge. It takes a bit of force, but not any worse than an old M48 or 91/30. When I swapped the bolt sleeve for a complete 03A3 bolt from another rifle, the bolt closed with significantly less effort, but still more effort than the complete 03A3. In all cases, the bolt would not close on the no-go gauge.

I'm new to installing barrels on bolt action guns, so my understanding of how much headspace is too little headspace is negligible. That said, would the gun be safe to fire with less than perfect headspacing (keeping in mind this is a case of too LITTLE not too much) and if not, is this a case of "not worth the effort"? Thanks.

[elk hunter]

Headspace that is too tight can be a pain to deal with while reloading. Good barrels and bolts for 03-A3's are still fairly common, given your lack of experience if you can't find someone close by that can help you set the barrel up, and unless your barrel is exceptional, I'd just look for something better.

[yovinny]

If I'm understanding correctly, it seems fine and correct with go & no-go gauges, but is tight with a factory loaded M2 round ?

Or are you trying to use that factory loaded round as you'r go gauge ?

[Reg]

Best to take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Playing with the proper fitting of barrels is not a good place for the amateur to start.

[ilcop22]

If I'm understanding correctly, it seems fine and correct with go & no-go gauges, but is tight with a factory loaded M2 round ?

Or are you trying to use that factory loaded round as you'r go gauge ?

I am trying to use the M2 in place, as I do not have a go gauge.


Best to take it to someone who knows what they are doing. Playing with the proper fitting of barrels is not a good place for the amateur to start.

I'll never learn the ins and outs if I keep paying other people to do it for me.

[Larry Gibson]

Most new replacement '03/'03A3 barrels have short chambers of about .010" and were meant to be finish chambered after instalation. The 'A3 barrel on your action probably wasn't finish chambered.

Before removing the barrel from the current action simply put a new index mark on it aligned with the index mark on the receiver. When installed on the other receiver check the headspace again and if tight I suggest having the chamber fish reamed and properly headspaced.

To answer the question; no it will not be dangerous to fire factory or milsurp ammunition with the tight chamber provided the bolt closes entirely.

Larry Gibson

[ilcop22]

Thanks, Larry. I was hoping you'd stop by.

The barrel does headspace fine on the 1903 MK1 receiver it came on, just not this new 03-A3 receiver.

[Larry Gibson]

Just needs the chamber finish reamed is all then.

Larry Gibson

[MtGun44]

Just take of the slightest touch and you should be OK.

Bill

[Wolfer]

I rent my reamers and gauges from 4 D products. You can find them on the web. I always found him good to do business with and this won't cost you much money. Be sure to mention you need an extension ( if you do ) Be careful and go slow, don't ask how I know.

[Casting Timmy]

You might be able to lap the locking lugs and get the head space you need with just some valve grinding compound. This would also ensure full mating of the locking lugs if your rifle doesn't have full contact already.

Truing up the bolt face on a lathe woudl also give you more head space, just be careful as there isn't much difference between go and nogo.

[MtGun44]

Actually, the lapping the locking lugs idea is a very good one.

Bill

[largom]

I second lapping the lugs, especially if they are not making full contact. You would need pressure on the bolt for lapping so I would use a dummy cartridge, no powder or primer. Sounds like you don't need much.

Larry

[flounderman]

is the extractor cut properly positioned>make sure your extractor is not binding when you close the bolt. try it without the extractor

[Wolfer]

I always lap my locking lugs before I finish ream the chamber. This might be all you need. As was said above there's not much difference between go and no go.