Safety checks you incorporate in reloading

[H110]

I am sure this has been done before, however: in my opinion there can never be too many threads with topics of this nature.

As I have been visiting some of the various forums there have been reports of mishaps due to re-loader error. Some have resulted in folks getting hurt and numerous firearms destroyed. I pay compliment to the posters who have swallowed their pride and admitted their mistakes for all to read. I think we can all learn from these mishaps.

This brings me to the reason for this post.

What specific safety checks do you perform before, during or after the reloading process. I know I always weight my loaded rounds for consistency as well as use two digital scales at the same time to double check charge weights.

As we all know there are many different circumstances that can contribute to a mishap.

I know I will follow this post and learn from all who are more experienced than I.

H110

[zuke]

Dollar store flashlight to make sure all case's have the proper amount of powder is my biggie.

[Rio Grande]

I load moderate loads one at a time using dippers. Lee dippers which are marked with the cc capacity.
I have doublechecked them on a scale before first use.
(I use factory loads for the hot stuff.)
Before I charge a primed case, I tap the case mouth downward against the cup that holds the powder. Then I charge the case, eyeball it to verify, set the bullet on top and immediately seat the bullet using the press.
No distractions, no radio, no talking, no eating, no drinking, no worrying about bills, etc.

My friends with Dillon presses just look at me and shake their heads :)
They think I come from someplace called Jurassic Park.

[1hole]

There is ONE error that causes serious reloading mishaps; wrong powder charge.

After priming I set my cases mouth up in a loading block. Charges are then dropped while passing the block under my bench mounted measure OR, for more precise charging, I weigh each charge and pour it through a funnel into each case. When all cases are charged I pick up the block and, with a strong light shinning inside the mouth, I visually confirm that each case is charged and the powder column is the same. I never listen to radio or TV or other people when I'm working with powder. In some 47 years of reloading I've never had a missed case, squib or over charge.

I never have more than one can of powder or primers or bullets on my bench and always return everything to the correct places as soon as I finish.

[Kevin Rohrer]

I always use a powder that fills a case >1/2 way, so if I double-charge a case, the powder overflows.

[bob208]

for one thing i don't like progresive loaders. i use loading blocks. all cases go in neck down up till they are charged with powder then they are neck up. then take a flashlight and look in them to check powder level. then seat bullets and crimp. never had a light or primer only load never had a bouble load.

[H110]

All good info, keep it coming!

[Bwana]

I learned a long time ago, while dealing with nuclear warheads, that quality control can save your rearend. So it became a way of dealing with everything else also. You establish the parameters of control and follow them. For me, loading blocks and spot checks and a final check on powder in cases after filling and before seating seems to work well.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Progressive, most of my reloading:

Moderate loads
case filling powders with moderate loads
auto advance instead of manual
a good light on the work so I can see the powder charges
visual inspection of the case every single time
case activated powder drop with QC check every 25 rounds (I weigh my charges to check for drift.)
RCBS lock out die with pistol, considering upgrading to Dillon's powder check device, but am concerned with the battery failing.
visually inspect brass and gauge before loading
measure oal and/or cartridge dimensions after cartridge completed
If anything is suspect, tear down all cartridges and identify problem/failures without hesitation, do not use suspect cartridges in firearms.

Single stage:

batch reload only, one operation at a time completed on all cases before another operation begins - use loading blocks to accomplish this, make them if you have to
weigh every single charge, then visually inspect all cases after batch powder drop is complete
do not do two operations at a time on a batch, as this adds complexity and raises potential for a mistake
Note: It is possible to place several presses and powder measures in a row on the bench to bulk process, but again, do a batch on one setup, then move to the next setup and complete the next operation before moving on.
Stay focused, visual check everything at each step

[454PB]

All of the above.....plus, caution while shooting. Over the last 40 years of handloading I've had several incidents of hangfires and squibs. Nothing will ruin your day/firearm/eyes like firing a round behind a boolit stuck in the bore.

[Texantothecore]

When I batch load, the last step is to stand up and look at the levels of powder in the hundred rounds in front of me. I have dumped and reloaded a a certain number of rounds simply because "They didn't look or feel right".

[dragonrider]

First and foremost I don't use a digital scale to check charge weights, I have flourescent lights in my RR and digital scales act badly around f/lights. Check powder weights every 10 or so rounds. Never have more than one container of powder on the bench. I stick a label to my powder measure to identify what is in it and what charge it is set up for.

[1Shirt]

T'aint no such thing as TO SAFE! In particular when loading charges for cast that fill less than half of the case. A double charge is then very obvious and correctable on the spot. For large capacity rifle cases and small quantity, fast burning powders, I weigh all reloaded cases for consistanciy. It is important to have like batches of cases of the same weight, or of no more than 2-3 grains of weight difference. Mixing brass with reduced powder charges invites potential problems, not only in weighing for safety, but also in accuracy potential as well.
1Shirt!

[LabGuy]

Whatever safety checks you use, I recommend a check list. I don’t know how many times I used to ask myself “did I (trim, measure, or check) something. I just added a step (check) to make sure the powder measure is empty before adding a new powder at the beginning of a reloading session. This was after reading a thread here about a mixed powder kaboom. And for a non firearms related book, read “The Checklist Manifesto” by Atul Gawande. If it works for pilots, surgeons, and nuclear reactor operators, it will work for reloaders too.

[Saint]

I always make sure to empty my powder measure after each use and I back the screw all the way out so I know I have to set it each use. I no longer reload when I am tired. I also make sure to use powders that will take up enough space in the case that a double charge will overflow. I make sure to label every box of ammo I make, not as much for safety as to avoid going to the range and having a POI 4 inches low and not knowing why. I always use loading blocks and charge all of my cases at once so I can see if one of them stands out as too full.

[btroj]

Most Important piece of safety equipment is right between the ears.

I never leave powder in a measure. I never load when I am tired or not having a good focus day.

Key is to find a system that works and don't ever break the routine.

[emrah]

I'm with Zuke. After I dump charges, but before bullet seating, I always shine a flashlight into the cases and make sure there is a charge of powder in every one.

Emrah

[shotman]

experiance is BEST if you get an oh, thats good, if you get wow, that not bad . If you get to call 911 thats bad and you wont do it again . If they call for you, WELL

[Uncle R.]

Single Stage loading in batches with loading blocks.
Only one can of powder on the bench - ever.
Only one type / weight of bullet on the bench - ever.
Zero scale - Adjust and check & recheck powder measure. LOOK at the recipe in the book - don't rely on memory only. Use magnifying glass & flashlight as needed to confirm those tiny numbers on the scale or in the book. (Old eyes.)
Re-check - powder type - load book recipe - bullet weight.
Charge ALL cases in the blocks - count as they go under the spout of the measure. A block full should hit count "fifty" as I charge the last case.
After one block is charged - dump a charge in the scale pan and check the weight again - and a final check after all cases are charged.
Visually inspect all cases in the block for powder level. Use flashlight. Scan through them deliberately with my vision - back and forth first - then re-scan up & down.
Seat bullets. Check length overall - check again at each new row in the block.
<
Yep - I'm a nervous Nellie - an old lady at the bench. But I haven't had an "incident" in over 20 years and I like to keep it that way.
<
Uncle R.

[H110]

In my experience the progressives can create issues especially if you are new to them. I know I have to concentrate and pay attention. I still weigh every loaded round for consistency no matter what I load them on.

H110

[btroj]

I don't use loading blocks. I have a bin of primed cases, a powder measure, and a box of bullets. M
Powder is dumped into a case, bullet pit on mouth of case, bullet is seated, round set aside. That is my way of preventing a double charge.

Like I said before, the key is to find a method that works for you and stay with it.

[Wayne Smith]

No progressives, my recent move in that direction is a Bair Brown Bair three station press! I make loading blocks for myself, but I do not load powder in them unless I am using my little Bair measure. For the rest, it is powder in the case, plug the mouth of the case with a boolit, put in shell holder to seat boolit.

[waksupi]

Something many neglect. When you are priming, check to see if there is a red, green, or other primer color in the priming unit. That is primer compound. You may want to remove that.

[Iron Mike Golf]

Only 1 powder jug on the bench (the one for the powder in my DPS1200)

I use a turret press. I prep and prime cases in batches, but only what I am getting ready to load. I load one round at a time: weigh charge, charge case, seat, crimp, put into the ammo case.

I check scale calibration every 50 rounds.

[H110]

When I started loading pistol ammo on a progressive I soon found out I did not like the process of throwing powder charges. I just don't trust the measure so I modified a powder cop die and it works very well. I can distinguish charge variations to 1/10th of a grain and depending on powder sometimes less. If you wish to make this mod to your die see my thread "powder cop upgrade". I am now comfortable just have to remember to look at the die each and every time.

H110

[WRideout]

First and foremost I don't use a digital scale to check charge weights, I have flourescent lights in my RR and digital scales act badly around f/lights. Check powder weights every 10 or so rounds. Never have more than one container of powder on the bench. I stick a label to my powder measure to identify what is in it and what charge it is set up for.

Some time ago, I was pouring from a one pound jug of Unique, when I found red dots in it. After initial heartache, and soul-searching, I finally decided to use the Unique for lawn fertilizer. Apparently I had emptied the powder measure, filled with Red Dot, into the Unique bottle.

Wayne

[jcw1970]

I use a dry erase marker on the powder hopper labeling the powder I'm using. I use a digital scale to get close to the weight i want, then dial it in using 3 different scales until they all match.

[MBTcustom]

1. open a can of powder and leave it on the bench until you are finished emptying your hopper back into the same container.
2. Same system for primers.
3. Same system for boolits.
4. As you prime place brass in the blocks rim-down.
5. As you charge, flip them over.....foolproof.
6. Zero the scale and check for zero often.
7. Don't load more than 50 of an unproven load.
8. Where safety glasses whenever you can, both shooting and reloading. (it aint that big of a hassle)
9. Check ammo dimensions (especially the necks) when finished loading a batch with calipers to verify that everything is kosher.
10. If at any time you get the unexplainable feeling that something is not right with a batch of ammo, dont screw around! pull the boolits and start over!
I have been reloading for 15 years and in that time, I have gotten that unexplainable feeling five times. The first one nothing happened, the second one I had a 45acp with no powder charge (unscrewed the antenna from the truck and pounded out the boolit), the third time was uneventful, the fourth time I had a double charge in a 30-06 (that got my attention), the fifth and last time I had the unexplainable feeling that something was not right I pulled 300 boolits and started over. Trust your gut.
So far, I have loaded untold thousands of rounds of ammo and I have only had two mistakes, both of which have lead to the foolproof system that I now use (detailed above).

[StratsMan]

My hints, learned from experience:
1) Don't have a TV near your reloading bench (got distracted, ran out of powder, pulled 300)
2) Put tape on powder measure; write down the powder and charge it is set to so you can pick up where you left off the next day...
3) Only keep one powder can within easy reach while reloading
4) When sizing bottle neck cases, check case dimensions in the chamber BEFORE you load them. Don't do your chamber check at the range...
5) In the event that Murphy is with you at the range, keep a rod in your range bag to push out the squib.

[mooman76]

You can use a small piece of dowel rod and mark a line to check powder dept in cases. It works fairly well in those deep cases with not much powder. I do have the TV or CD player on while working but it's more for background noise than anything. I concentrate better when it isn't too quiet. I like to chamber my first round loaded to make sure it chambers freely. Not really safety but good idea. I usually don't reload a batch from start to finish so I prep cases in advanced and put them in ziplock bags with a tag saying what step I am at, sized belled or just cleaned.

[H110]

Man you guy's have got some really good ideas. I think anyone could benefit from reading this thread. Think about it, you pick up on just one idea or technique outlined here and it could make the difference between a good day or a bad one.

Keep it coming!!!!

H110

[Four Fingers of Death]

I have the can of powder currently in use on the bench-NO OTHERS!
I return unused powder from the hopper at the end of the days reloading (even if I'm not finished the batch).
When finished it is removed from the bench.

Single stage reloading:
-sizing, I just dump from one container to another, but inspect for damaged split cases before placing on the shellholder.
-priming I inspect that the primer is seated properly and not *** backwards before placing it in the loading block.
-once charged, and before a bullet is seated, I take the block out into the sunlight if possible, otherwise under a good light check the levels. when I return to the bench, I will check weight 5 from the 50 round tray at random.
-as the completed round is removed from the shellholder I give it a final inspection before placing it into a tray.

I hardly do any single stage relaoding any more since I bought a Lee Classic Turret press, the procedure for it is similar, but has some differences:

-I inspect the case as I place it on the shellholder, looking for damage or splits, etc
-re-size
-seat primer
-powder charge
-remove case from shellholder, check powder level ( I tried checking it while still on the holder, but this sometimes difficult).
-check weigh occasionally
-start bullet while case is in my hand
- return to shellholder and seat bullet
-crimp bullet
-remove loaded round and give a final check before placing it in container.

Progressive Presses:

-inspect cases as you place them on the shellplate or into the case feeder.
-don't rush
-occasionally check weight
-adopt a cadence/drill to ensure consistent reloading. As I pull the handle, I turn my head and watch the powder measure to see that it operates properly (I have only ever used Lee Auto disk measures and you can see these working clearly. I am about to start using a Uniflow powder measure, so I will have to adopt a new routine with this, which I have yet to work out, probably a powder cop die or similar.
-inspect each loaded round as it comes off the machine ( I catch it as it is being ejected, twirl between my fingers and as I roll it over to place it into the tray, I check the primer is right way around.

If I have to stop for whatever reason, I always stop at the same point. For me, that is with a fresh case on the shellplate and a bullet started into the case under the bullet seater die, the press ready to have the handle pulled.

My wife and son that lives at home know this procedure and if they bring me the phone or a cuppa, they know that they have to wait for a moment until I have the press in this condition.

PPE, Personal protection equipment:
-Safety glasses when priming on a single stage or all of the time operating a progressive press or charging drop tubes, primer trays, etc.
-latex gloves for handling lead boolits ( I handled thousands of lead boolits in the 80s and 90s doing all of the loading for a pistol club, mixed tehh lead based paints for my Grandfather as a child, added powdered red lead, etc and every check I had done for lead poisining/plumbism I didn't even really register on the scale, so this is not so important I'm thinking. I read somewhere that most of the lead poisioning cases came from children eating the flaking lead based paint off old buildings as it tastes sweet. I have a friend on another board that uses soft lubed lead boolits for his black powder cartridges and he uses a pair of pliers to start the boolit. I am yet to try this, but it seems sound, especially with soft lubes.

-no distractions, moosic, TV, nagging wives (I don't allow that even if I'm not reloading), etc.

As to the loaded ammo, I use my dad's maxim; 'if in doubt, chuck it out!'

[bbqncigars]

I use a lot of these methods, and no problems at the range yet (43yrs). One thing I'll add is this: keep the shell plate area of the press CLEAN. This is good for the press, and lets you see if some particles (primer or powder) appear. In that case, STOP and find the source. This has saved me much aggravation (and repair) in the past.

[largom]

I use two loading blocks. One block will contain the empty, primed cases. The second empty block is placed off to the side. I weigh each powder charge on a beam scale, put powder into case and immediately move that case to the second loading block. When the first block is empty of cases I then inspect the cases in the second block with a small flashlight for even powder height.

As others,One can of powder and one box of bollits on bench at a time.

Larry

[Four Fingers of Death]

I learnt a neat but simple trick out of the RCBS manual recently, when using a primer feeder, just put out 100 bullets, as teh bullet pile dwindles, you will know when the primers are about to run out.

[Axton1]

Here is mine – with Lee Classic Turret:
Lots and lots of light! Have to be able to see down in the case!
Powder, Primers, other components stored out of reach of small ones prior to session.
Place load recipe sheet for loading session with any notes stuck up on bench - in my face so to speak.
Read thru load recipe and notes before beginning.
Safety glasses stuck over remaining two eyeballs. (Aiming to keep them both!)
All manner of critters locked out of room. (small kids/cats/dogs -Now THERE’s a story!)
Telephone power switch in the O-F-F position.
No eating at the bench – and wash hands thoroughly after loading. (No smoking – goes without saying.)
Only one type of powder on the bench. (Best in original factory can!)
Only one type boolits out open on the bench.
Only one type/size of primers on the bench. (Leave out empty box until another is opened to verify same.)
All brass cleaned, deprimed, sorted and hand checked prior to loading.
Scale warmed up and calibrated.
Area checked for static electricity – ground stuff to the metal housing of receptacle or ground pin. (Due to wood heat, mostly a winter thing.)
Bullet puller and other tools laid out at the ready.
Powder disc chosen by load sheet and double checked before installed. (Only have one auto disc powder measure.)
Verify correct die sets chosen per load. (Multiple turret plates yannow! Luv’em!)
Check press for correct functioning - loose parts dirt/crud/powder in priming area.
Fill powder measure and primer tray per recipe.
Prime first case and check primer seating.
Drop powder in the primed case and empty in scale – weigh 10 consecutive drops before moving to next stage. (Verifying powder drop and scale function.)
Look in each case to verify powder before placing boolit on it. Check case mouth flare at start.
After seating first boolit, verify OAL with calipers to recipe. Adjust if needed.
After FCD step (if using) look over round and place fresh round in loading block.
Check powder drop of every 10th round on scale and ever 20th with calipers.
When 50 made, look over and clean finished rounds – wipe with towel – and place in marked box – date/cal/primer/boolit weight/powder & weight of/my J Hancock
After 100 rounds, take short break – 15 minutes or so, walk around, check weather, other. Keeps my mind right!
If any distraction happens – stop immediately, before restarting verify last round – even if have to pull down.
Upon completion of loading, return any unused components to original boxes/cans and store.
Remove all unneeded items to their designated storage area before switching calibers for another load.
Keep all spilled powder used primers etc swept up and area clean.
Don’t leave loader and material out for “next day” – put everything away after session. May ‘forget’ you had it out or plans change – to tempting for small kids not to play with. (Heck, some so-called adults too! Got a BiL? Yep.) And I don’t try for any “Barn Burner” loads – mid-range plinkers for the most part. Some close to posted max. but never above.

A lot of this was the method that I was taught to use by my Dad – mostly loading shotgun shells for my first 15 years. Similar but different….
Seems like a lot of checks but so far this has kept me, the significant other and two kids safely shooting pistol stuff for 2 decades now.
A little slow but, prolly stick with it! Had one NO POWDER round once – and that was once too many!
Great info on this thread! Always something new to learn!

[warf73]

I never have more than one can of powder or primers or bullets on my bench and always return everything to the correct places as soon as I finish.

Same way with me also, no need to confuse myself.

[rintinglen]

If I could only pick one tip, it would be to "Pay Attention!"

Every step of the way, from sizing to seating to firing bad things can happen. I have had arguments with my wife when she would come into the garage and start chatting. If I am going to talk, reloading stops completely until I can devote my full attention to it. I try never to be distracted.

Another thing I do is that I limit my loading to a maximum of two hours. I may size and decap cases for a longer period of time, but if I am dealing with powder and primers, I deliberately limit the time I spend so that I do not loose focus. And I further recommend batch reloading. Size everything, then prime, then flare, then charge then seat, then crimp. Do one thing at a time so you don't distract yourself.

[jblee10]

I use a hand priming tool. And I always use a loading block. I either use sunlight or a flashlight to visually compare all thrown charges to a weighed charge. And I've haven't had a problem.

[ubetcha]

Everyone has cover all the bases for me.Pretty much all of the above.Only one powder on the bench,Case mouth down,load powder one at a time with balance beam scale, insert bullet right away and move case away from remaining emptys.I also use two loading blocks.One with full cases with bullet inserted and the other block with empty cases to be loaded

[Four Fingers of Death]

I can't really see the point of arranging the empty cases upside down in a loading tray. There are enough steps already without adding another one when reloading on a single stage press.

As they get primed, I put them into the tray open end up. When the tray/s is/are full I have a look to make sure the cases are all empty and charge them with the powder measure running along the rows. I check these under sunlight or a bright light that I have in my garage. Rather than use a flashlight, looking into the cases under the sun or a decent light allows you to see all of the levels across the tray and any that are not kosher, really stand out.

It takes an awful long time to reload via a single station press and while it is not a race, why waste time on unnecessary steps?

[**oneshot**]

ALWAYS double check everything:
scales, press, primers, powder, LOAD DATA

Keep everything off the bench but the materials for what I am reloading for. This prevents all kinds of stuff from happening like wrong powder, wrong primer, etc.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Keep everything off the bench but the materials for what I am reloading for. This prevents all kinds of stuff from happening like wrong powder, wrong primer, etc.

Scheeoootttt! That'd be a day's work clearing my bench off, :D :D

[Bill*B]

Double check the COL when you're researching loading data. I looked up wadcutter charges for a .38 Special once, picked a nice mild one, and "assumed" that it was meant for flush loading. Wrong! Only after I ruined a nice Model 15 did I go back, recheck, and note to my chagrin that the data was for a bullet loaded a full 1/4" out. It's the little simple minded things that will nail you.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I use some of the methods mentioned above.

However the biggest thing you can do with respect to safety is to simply pay attention to what you are doing and actually have your mind there while you are doing it.

Rote operations in reloading are the reason why people come up with all of the "ways" to do this stuff.

You can't 100% idiot proof anything.

But if you pay attention to what you are doing and are actually there while doing it, as opposed to thinking about titties at spring break, then chances are you'll be fine.

I personally pre-process all of my rifle brass IE Size/Deprime, tumble, prime, before I do the actual loading.

I have multi station presses that I can charge, seat boolit, and then crimp, each cartridge in one handling, afterwhich the loaded round goes directly into the cartridge box. There is no posibility of a double or bad charge as all charges are thrown with an electronic PM and nearly fill the case.

With Cast Boolits and charges of 5744 which only fill the case half way, I use a powder measure, and check the level of the powder in the case as it is being moved from one station to another. Minor variations in these charges will not be unsafe no matter if they are even several grains +/-.

I load .40 s&W and .45 ACP on dedicated SDB's and watch/visually check the charged case for powder level as I sit the bullet in place. A double charge will overflow, and with the powders I use, the Dillon PM's are very accurate. However I do want to get one of "1in9 twist's" LED lights for these presses so I can better see what is going on.

As I said above, you can't fool proof anything to the point where you don't need to think about what you are doing continuously.

Thinking you can is the first step down the road to an accident!

Randy

[sthwestvictoria]

great thread, lots of useful bits.

I thank LabGuy for the link to Atul Gawande book covering checklists. I have read his previous book "complications" which I really liked. The local library has it in catalogue, I'll book it out.

As a medico and pilot I think checklists are excellent. The mind is fallible and prey to distractions. Checklist seem lame and rigid but they save our butt with complex situations when we are prone to load shedding.

Two things I have taken from this thread:
Upside down until full of powder then bullet seated immediately
Dry erase marker of powder type on the powder hopper.

Another thing to mention with the Lee powder measure - make sure the hopper is twisted around fully to expose all the hole as the bottom of the hopper before adding powder. It is possible to not full twist the hopper around, resulting in a half moon opening instead of a full circle. Hopefully you would pick this up on a check weight and it would result in an bit undercharge rather than over but something I have found once.

[Four Fingers of Death]

Two things I have taken from this thread:
Upside down until full of powder then bullet seated immediately
Dry erase marker of powder type on the powder hopper.

The only trouble with that system is that you don't get the chance to compare the powder across the loading block.

If you arrange the primed cases mouth up, you can use the loading block held under the spout and work down the rows charging the cases. Then you can inspect and remove a few cases at random to check weights.

It is not a race, but there is no point slowing it down either. I have used this system for 31 years without mishap.

[Reloader270]

I only use single stage press operation in rifle reloading. Biggest checkup is to make sure all cases have powder in it and +-at same level. If there is doubt, I re-throw the powder.

[MasS&W]

My go to reloading safety tool is my hiking headlamp. Shines where you look, in this case, into the case to make a mental note of where the powder charge should fill up to.

[onehousecat]

Several guys have already posted excellent check lists. I may have overlooked one item, if I did I apologize. Use more than one reloading manual when deciding on your load. Loads vary by a bit from manual to manual. I discard any load that is at serious variance to the other manuals.

[MtGun44]

Only one can of powder out at a time. Hard rule.

Look into EVERY SINGLE case. On the Dillon, and in a loading tray when doing small
batch stuff on the turret presses.

Bill

[L Ross]

Aw man, I just read all three pages and I suck at this safety stuff. However while reading the thead I did have to stop and shoot another chuck as I declared a resumption of hostilities after the fourth time they ate the leaves of of my brussel sprouts. I had a choice of two chucks. I shot the one that was not lined up with the 50 gallon propane tan I use to fuel my smelter. How's that for safe ?

Duke

[Beagle333]

I shot the one that was not lined up with the 50 gallon propane tank I use to fuel my smelter. How's that for safe ?
:goodpost:

Safety first! :bigsmyl2:

[FUBAR 6]

3 To 4 presses at different locations on the same bench:

- each rifle press loads 3-4 different calibers (load pistols on separate bench & presses, use some but not all the same QC/QA methodology)

- keep powder for the load behind the press

- write the type of powder on masking tape and stick it on hopper lid

- wite load data on masking tape and stick it on the side of the powder hopper, and on the case guard box

- clean and inspect brass, weigh/separate certain types, and check case length/trim if neededt

- for rifle, I load one complete round at a time

- for rifle, check each powder charge with a sartorius scale

- I also turn cases upside down until they are primed

- use concentricity & OAL gauge on each round

- each press has a number, and I input load data into a spread sheet by load type and press number

[rda72927]

A point to MTGun44. Not I, but my brother let someone else use his equipment. When that guy was done, he poured the 1/4 lb of Titegroup in a can of Varget. Of course no one was aware of this. Until Varget was used to load some 308 Win. The gun didn't come apart, but the case would not come out at first and then it did come apart. One can of powder out and maybe no one else using your equipment.

[guidogoose]

I use a Hornady electronic powder thrower that weighs every charge. It actually goes pretty fast. I dont reload for speed. My hands and face are worth the extra time it takes to weigh every charge. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure, as the saying goes. Every completed round is also checked with a Dillon case gauge. I use the same powder for all my pistol rounds. As of now only 2 for rifle. One being a ball and the other extruded so that helps to keep them separated and not accidentally mixed. Hope this helps.

[1in9twist]

I use the mini post its like these:

http://http://www.mitronics.com.au/attachments/Product/9376/3M6834.jpg?ts=1305785896


I write what powder it is and what the charge is. When I am using that powder, the post it is stuck to my measure. When I am done with that powder, I remove the post it and stick it on the top of the powder bottle.

Lots of light.

As few interruptions as possible. (Not likely.) [smilie=b:

[MtGun44]

I also write the powder, quantity and date on the plastic powder hopper with a yellow
grease pencil whenever I set up a powder measure. Rubs off easily but lasts well.

Bill

[Bullfrog]

In addition to these folks fine examples, because I have been called paranoid reloading more than once:
I don't eat/drink when I am reloading
I check each case for a charge- like others said
I bulk prep/prime each case then charge/seat each cartridge one at a time
I have been known to "shake" the cartridge to listen to the powder on some that I could to hear the "salt" sound
I use a Lyman scale weight checker and I have 4 scales that I check a charge every so often to make certain it is the same. I do not use all 4 at once, but I do check each against the other.
I use a Lyman 55 ( I own 4) and I use the weight twice to tap any bunched up in the neck.
When in doubt from all the previous mentioned if I have a serious doubt that something went wrong I have pulled bullets to check the weight again. This only happened when I could not hear the powder and it would have been a squib load.

I think the biggest thing I do that most do not is I will prep all my cases in stages. I tumble to get the junk off, then I decap/size, clean primer pocket, and sometimes I will tumble again. I measure with a mic and trim if only necessary and I inspect each case for deep scratches and signs of cracks or fatigue.

Toldya I am a bit on the cautious side when reloading.

[375supermag]

Hi...

I have used the following system for years in the interests of safety. Speed is of secondary concern to me when reloading.

I dump all available fired cases of a given caliber in the tumbler and run it for at least 4 hours. If the cases don't look clean and shiny, I run it another 3-4 hours.

I inspect each case by hand after separating the tumbling medium for damage, spilt case mouths,etc when wiping them off to remove any residual tumbling medium.

I re-size and de-prime all available cases in a given caliber on my RockChucker, checking each case individually. The cases are then separated by brand.

I then clean the primer pockets on an RCBS motorized case prep center, while visually checking each case.

The cases get re-primed on an RCBS APS bench-mounted tool, where each case is again inspected and separated into batches depending on brand of primer and whether or not they are std. or magnum primers.

I then expand the case mouths, while once again inspecting each case.

When ready to do the actual reloading, I have only one can of powder on the bench and install the appropriate rotor for the desired charge in my RCBS Lil Dandy powder dispenser.
I charge in batches of 50 cases in a reloading block and visually check each case to ensure it is charged at an appropriate level. I weigh one charge in ten on my powder scale to verify the weight.

Immediately after dumping the powder, I seat the bullets for that particular batch of cases and then box them up, either in a plastic ammo box or a bulk ammo can, with a label denoting the caliber, case brand, primer type and brand, with powder type and charge and bullet type and weight, along with published velocity data.

The system works for me, albeit a bit slowly. Still the case prep work can be spred out over several weeks or months during the winter after hunting season is over, before the spring and summer shooting season begins. Despite my slow and deliberate process and pace, I manage to load thousands and thousands of rounds for each caliber. I usually load several thousand rounds of generic target shooting rounds for my various .357magnum and .45ACP pistols each year. Plus hundreds or more of target and specialty loads in those calibers and everything from .38 Special, .44 Special, .44Magnum, .41 Magnum, .45 Colt, and .45AutoRim,etc. each year. I also manage to find a way to reload whatever empty cases I accumulate through the shooting season...I suspect that each case is reloaded several times each year, not including new cases that are acquired. Even after discarding cases that have exceeding their useful lifespan, I generally finish each shooting season several hundred cases ahead in most calibers.

[BBGun]

I always put a paper tag inside the hopper to mark what powder is in it. I don't always empty the hopper after each session so this way I keep up with what powder is in there. I have a Lee turret press but use the depriming die and priming die as if single stage. I always place cases primer up until powder load. After I load powder I immediately seat and size the cases. That way no chance of double load. I intermittantly check powder charge with a measured rod and always check the last case for powder weight.
If ANY case is suspect or just doesn't look right, I will tear it down and start it over.

[David2011]

About 3 years ago I experienced some light .40 S&W loads using a Dillon 650. I had been using the press for several years, almost exclusively for the .40 and had never had this happen before. I had moved recently and the press was set up in a large workshop without the benefit of a climate controlled room so it was exposed to everyting in the shop. One night while loading I noticed that a case appeared to have too much powder. Upon investigation I found that June bugs had crawled into some of the cases in the case feeder and died. My guess is that the bugs blocked most of the spark from the primer but the boolits were leaving the barrel so the powder had to be just barely burning. The affected shots felt like there was no powder at all but the barrel was always clear. After the June bug discovery I quit leaving brass in the case feeder. Never had a repeat of the problem.

David

[jethunter]

I batch charge and when all the cases are charged i check them with a flashlight, then remove the powder measure from the turret prior to seating boolits.

[smokeywolf]

It would be difficult to add to the great tips and procedures that have already been described.

I have found that as I have gotten older I don't trust my memory and concentration as much as I used to. I use a single stage press. I used to trust the powder measure more. Now I weigh a lot more of my charges on a Redding oil damped beam scale. I keep my batches down to 50 rounds at a time. I take my breaks at key points in the process so that I don't lose my place. I weigh each completed cartridge on an Ohaus 3100 beam scale.

I believe very strongly in what goodsteel says about trusting your feelings, "your gut".
I have both inertia and collet type bullet pullers. If I have any doubts or second thoughts about any cartridges, I pull the bullets and check them. I have even had suspicions about cartridges while loading them at the range; just an off feeling. I marked them with a sharpie and pulled them apart when I got home. Never have found anything wrong, but I will keep doing it that way. There are lots of chances to check, double check, and triple check your work. Mistakes are permissible, but only if caught before you pull the trigger; before they take the life of an innocent.

smokeywolf

[wallenba]

I prime and powder charge all cases off press, put them in loading block. Then I FL size, 'M' expand, seat, then crimp, when using a turret press. In my progressive, I still prime off press, and use an RCBS lock out die to guard against over/under/no charges.
(My decapper pins have been removed from all my FL dies.)
I use a single stage for rifle.

[MtGun44]

"tumble all available cases. . . . . . ." :shock:

WOW! Not practical for me in many cartridges. Got too many cans and boxes of
2000 here 4000 there, etc. Clean them up, box and store. Pull some from storage
as needed.

Bill

[BrassMagnet]

To All, this is a great thread and there are many great ideas here. In many decades of shooting and reloading I have seen or heard of many ways to get in trouble, or injured. I have had friends injured badly enough that range personnel called ambulances. I have read about fatalities from events that are generally deemed to be safe. Rather than boring everyone with my methods, I'll just list the major danger areas that come to mind in "bullet" format and brief explanation of why if needed or the incident that brings it to mind.

*Safety glasses - for when things do go wrong. Every major manufacturer has loaded ammo with the wrong powder.
*High primers - a primer which is not flush or below flush may go off in a semi-auto before the action is locked up. Ambulance for a friend with a new Garand. He did have safety glasses and is not blind.
*Always zero the scale before use
*Never use flourescent lights with electronic scales
*Use appropriate powder for case capacity - a double should overflow and make a mess!
*Too little powder is more dangerous than too much - too little can "detonate" instead of burn. I lost a Model 29 to commercial reloads which were detonating 296 and had a double or triple charged case and still detonated.
*Too much is still dangerous - a family friend was too impatient to wait for OJT. He did not zero his scale, ended up "weighing" a nearly full .357 magnum case of Bullseye and blew out the top three chambers and removed the top strap on a Blackhawk.
*Failure to follow load data - I was loading ball 7.62x51 (147gr) and switched to loading special ball 7.62x51 (173gr). In readjusting the powder measure, I returned to the weight for the lighter bullet and loaded more than a thousand rounds with the wrong weight of powder. When I was done loading, I compared my load to my load data label and caught the error. One day to load and two weeks to pull it down. More than 20 years ago.
*Correct dimension/correct headspace ammo - know it goes brfore you load it in a firearm.
*Safely clear cartridges stuck in the chamber - It is generally believed to be safe to use a cleaning rod to drive a stuck cartridge out of the chamber. It is not safe. There is one documented case I am aware of where the case went off, the case head separated and struck a person in the abdomen. She died during surgery. The primer did not go off. Compressing the powder lit the powder. If you must drive a loaded round out of the chamber, make sure forward and back are clear and safe before beginning to tap with the cleaning rod. Case gages are relatively inexpensive.

[Wal']

I have only one reloading rule.............the slightest doubt .........pull it & reload it

[opos]

My process involving case prep (cleaning, decapping, trimming if needed, etc) is a chance for me to do a multiple inspection of the cases before they ever hit the loading process. I'm really slow and old....I use a lighted magnifying glass to inspect my brass. When it's inspected and cleaned I begin. I use a Lee Auto Prime and never get in a hurry...another chance to inspect the brass and to "feel the primers into the pocket"...if a primer/pocket is a problem...out it goes. I live near the ocean but far enough inland that we get the very dry Baja and desert winds and humidity goes way way down...I don't do any loading or mess with primers when its extremely dry...I think the military has a humidity check point at which the armors will not load any ammo...something I read one time but I just don't feel comfortable messing with explosives when the air is really dry and static prone.

My biggest area of caution is in the powder/seating area. First I close the door....the wife knows no interruptions...phone off the ringer so no answer at all while I'm loading powder....tv off...computer off....one kind of powder only at one time on my loading desk. I zero my scale and use RCBS check weights to verify the beam scale is still fine....I use Lee dippers to get close to the charge I want and an RCBS trickler to bring the load to proper spec...I load with a funnel and immediately double check the load and finger seat the projectile. the finger loaded projectile goes into the loading block and about every 10 rounds I go ahead and seat the projectile with my lee hand press so that if something causes my load block to be disturbed I'm only dealing with a few cartridges that might spill.

Slow...you bet.....low through put...you bet....boring....not really as it give me a nice diversion that takes my attention with no outside distractions. I'm old and have no care about "throughput per hour"...I've always loaded with a single stage press of one kind or another and never "automated" much of anything and that's how I like it...If you see the white 4 door Buick in the fast lane of the freeway with it's left flasher going for miles and miles and only going 60 mph....that's probably me.

[almostgem]

My workflow goes something like this. I decap all of my brass when I return from the range.
I use an ultrasonic to make sure the cases are clean.
I then perform the first inspection, and weed out any that are too badly deformed to reshape with dies. I also check for obvious cracks etc.
At this point, I send the cases through a treated walnut shell tumble. After the cases come out nice and shiny, I use my caliper as a go/no go gauge for trimming. I put aside any cases that need trimming.
With the cases that pass length requirements, I resize, and prime using an rcbs universal priming tool, verifying all primers seat properly. While priming, I also double check the cases for deep scratches, or anything that would render the case dangerous to use. After priming, I load powder either off press individually for rifle cartridges using an rcbs electronic scale which has been calibrated. Immediately after charging, I neck expand if necessary, seat, and crimp. I use a Lyman turret press.
Pistol brass is almost the same. After priming, I powder using a Lyman 55 powder measure, and verify using my rcbs scale. I check every other case to 10, then every 10th case thereafter. Immediately after powder, the neck expanded, bullet seated, and case crimped. During each phase the cases are checked for defects.

Sent from my rooted Kindle Fire running Ice Cream Sandwich.

[Casper29]

1 I inspect my brass each and every time I clean it
2 I use scale weights to zero out my scale
3 I only have one powder on the bench and empty the measure after every use
4 I keep my empty brass off to one side in a loading bloack and the charged brass to the other side
5 I inspect all charged cases before seating bullets
6 I seat all the bullets first then crimp
7 I check all loaded rounds for proper head space
8 I lable all my loaded rounds right after loading them
9 I store all my primers, powders and loaded rounds in a climate controled room.

[o6Patient]

The two different loading blocks is a good idea. I load to typically 85 - 95% capacity so double charging
is not likely to happen but what I have done is thrown charges in a whole block of 223 and then discovered
that I hadn't primed them yet..quite a waste of effort, the 2 block system would check that mistake the first
round or 2 (depending how numb a person was on a given day) good stuff