Tuning a Ruger No.1?

[Ragnarok]

I aquired a Ruger No1B in .243 Winchester a few years ago.

Not the slickest old Ruger...with some stock dings...checkering peckering..cracked forearm..rust..etc. Well used old rifle.

Anyhow...while the Ruger single-shot shoots ok..it ain't just a tack-driver. I shot it some yesterday..and about the best it would do is 2" 100 meter groups.

It does shoot a fairly round group...but I feel it can do better.

You see some online destructions for working over the forearm hanger...shimming the forearm hanger...shimming the forearm itself...etc.

I've tinkered around a bit with this..and reaally didn't make a lot of difference. Even went so far *** to remove the forearm wood..and shoot the rifle with the naked barrel...shot it with a thick washer jammed in between the hanger and barrel too...which did help somewhat.

Anybody a Ruger No.1 expert can give me some pointers on wringing a bit more accuracy from my ruff Ruger?

[dieseldoc]

I have spent a lot of time ,cash and gun smiths trying to get my #1 B-1 22-250 to shoot.
Trigger modifications, fore arm modifications, load development , Ken Farell rail and Night force mounts and scope.
Nothing has improved this shooter as it won't shoot sub MOA and what I have been able to find out it will never be a sub MOA shooter.

[ASSASSIN]

Three thing I have found to make the Ruger #1 a sub moa gun -

1- Take off the factory scope mount and throw it as far as you can! Replace it with a 2 piece mount...

2- Recrown the muzzle...

3- Install a "Hicks Accurizer" that allows you to be able the adjust the tension between the barrel and forend hanger...

If you handload, set your die to "float" in the press and size only half the length of the case neck. This will minimize headspace, increase case life and increase accuracy potential....

A

[Ragnarok]

The forearm on this particular rifle just sucks right up to the barrel..no free-float to it.

I've been meaning to fit a shim in the inletting to see if it will clear. I forgot to mention that with the forearm on it does vertical string to some degree.

The accuracy the rifle has ain't that bad(I didn't think)...but I would like to give it a chance for something better than 2 inch.

I'll check out the 'Hicks Accurizer'....I've heard of these in regards to fixing No.1 issues.

[Maven]

Ragnarok, Assassin's suggestions are excellent, but they assume you have a high quality bbl. in the first place. Years ago, C.E. Harris wrote an article about the Ruger #1 in "American Rifleman." In short, he said that Ruger #1 bbls. were made by several manufacturers and if you got one to shoot into 1.5 m.o.a., you were among the fortunate few. (Harris, as you may know, worked for Ruger at one time.) Btw, I too have a Ruger #1 in .243Win. (fired it a few hours ago as a matter of fact) and haven't had accuracy problems with either cast or jacketed bullets. However, I did put a plastic shim under the forearm pedestal*, which works very well and can be quickly removed if need be. Btw, I also tried firing it without the forearm and got terrible results.


*I read either in Harris' article or another in the "Fouling Shot" (CBA) that it was a cheap and very effective fix. It worked for me. Also, when I removed the forearm to install the plastic shim (flat thing found on bread or English Muffin bags instead of a twist tie), the bluing on the bbl. was rubbed off where it made contact with said forearm.