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ihmsakiwi
03-17-2012, 12:49 AM
I had to pull 50 rounds of 7MMBR as I forgot to nose size them first to fit my tight chamber.
I have about ten cases where the bullet left the gas check inside the case. Most are loose in the case and the powder is extracted. How do i get them out? I will shoot the ones with powder still in them checking between each shot that the gas check has actually left the barrel befor firing the next one. I have a fear when I do this that one day a bullet will will find a gas check half way up the barrel.
I hate having to pull (or hammer) loaded rouds after all the effort of seating perfectly good rounds into perfectly preeped brass. Peter

mpbarry1
03-17-2012, 01:25 AM
A primer alone should get them out of the case. But make absolutely sure your barrel is clear between shots!

geargnasher
03-17-2012, 02:34 AM
Poke one side of the check with a small screwdriver or something that will turn it sideways in the neck, then grab it by the edge with hemostats or needlenose pliers and pull it out.

Gear

HARRYMPOPE
03-17-2012, 02:38 AM
expand with a 30 expander and dump them out.

stubshaft
03-17-2012, 02:57 AM
Good idea but it would really overwork the necks on expensive BR brass.

geargnasher
03-17-2012, 03:05 AM
I promise I really did read the whole OP, it just didn't register that the powder is out and the checks loose in the case already, so ignore my previous post!

My solution to the problem would still involve extracting with needle-nose pliers, but you'll just have to invert the case overhead and look up into it while shaking it around until the check settles in a place you can grab it. You can tip the check sideways and grab it if you hold your mouth just right, the check will tend to flip on edge and locate itself between the tips of the needlenose when you poke them up in the neck.

You could also squeeze the case necks slightly to make them elliptical and shake out the checks, but then you'd have to resize them.

Gear

adrians
03-17-2012, 08:08 AM
"My solution to the problem would still involve extracting with needle-nose pliers, but you'll just have to invert the case overhead and look up into it while shaking it around until the check settles in a place you can grab it. You can tip the check sideways and grab it if you hold your mouth just right, the check will tend to flip on edge and locate itself between the tips of the needlenose when you poke them up in the neck".

Geargnasher,

i found this way to be the best also but there is always one that tests my patience [smilie=l:

williamwaco
03-17-2012, 09:26 AM
Poke one side of the check with a small screwdriver or something that will turn it sideways in the neck, then grab it by the edge with hemostats or needlenose pliers and pull it out.

Gear

This works for me.
Been doing it that way for years.
Has no effect on the neck.
You will need to run it back through the expander to remove the crimp before you can seat a new bullet.

.

Shuz
03-17-2012, 10:02 AM
Poke one side of the check with a small screwdriver or something that will turn it sideways in the neck, then grab it by the edge with hemostats or needlenose pliers and pull it out.

Gear

This has worked for me!

deltaenterprizes
03-17-2012, 10:34 AM
Poke one side of the check with a small screwdriver or something that will turn it sideways in the neck, then grab it by the edge with hemostats or needlenose pliers and pull it out.

Gear

This was recommend to me by a forum member and it worked well.

dragonrider
03-17-2012, 11:09 AM
I have used a dental pick, hook shaped, and simply grabbed it inside the rim and pulled it out.

HollowPoint
03-17-2012, 11:20 AM
I have used a dental pick, hook shaped, and simply grabbed it inside the rim and pulled it out.

I hate it when this happens. And it usually only happens to me when I use aluminum checks. It usually means that I screwed up my re-loading process somewhere along the line so I have to take my cartridges apart.

The method described above always seemed to work for me. Just about any small diameter hook-shaped piece of wire with sufficient rigidity will work.

HollowPoint

williamwaco
03-17-2012, 11:47 AM
I have used a dental pick, hook shaped, and simply grabbed it inside the rim and pulled it out.


I have done this one too.
It is more tedious than the needle nose pliars but works.


.

geargnasher
03-17-2012, 01:35 PM
Removing a gas check from the neck or from inside the case requires the same technique that mechanics have been using for a hundred years or more to remove "freeze" plugs and oil galley plugs from engine blocks and heads.

Gear

runfiverun
03-17-2012, 01:44 PM
i'd be somewhat concerned, about, if they can come off the boolits being pulled from the case that they would do the same at another time.

montana_charlie
03-17-2012, 01:56 PM
i'd be somewhat concerned, about, if they can come off the boolits being pulled from the case that they would do the same at another time.
You mean, fall off of the bullet and wind up floating around in the powder charge?

runfiverun
03-17-2012, 04:32 PM
yep,, right at the most inopportune time.

ihmsakiwi
03-18-2012, 02:48 AM
yep,, right at the most inopportune time.

Thanks everybody for your helpful suggestions. I will try the needle nose plier routine as that seems the most logical and doable. Peter

44man
03-18-2012, 10:00 AM
Checks should never fall off a boolit until it hits the target. Fix the mold so checks never come loose.

Whistler
03-18-2012, 10:23 AM
Since I started using aluminum checks I've let go of the whole "gas checks should stay on no matter what" argument. I can shoot groups up to 330 yards (300 meters) with my Model 28 .357 Magnum using 180gn gaschecked boolits and everytime I walk toward the target I find the checks in a nice pattern 30-50 feet in front of my shooting position. Accuracy speaks its own language. I've even loaded some checks backwards just for the experiment and the effect was about the same up to 35 yards.

44man
03-18-2012, 10:34 AM
Since I started using aluminum checks I've let go of the whole "gas checks should stay on no matter what" argument. I can shoot groups up to 330 yards (300 meters) with my Model 28 .357 Magnum using 180gn gaschecked boolits and everytime I walk toward the target I find the checks in a nice pattern 30-50 feet in front of my shooting position. Accuracy speaks its own language. I've even loaded some checks backwards just for the experiment and the effect was about the same up to 35 yards.
The difference is that all of yours fall off at the same place, like a wad under a boolit. But if one stays on to the target, it will be different then one that fell off.
GC's that can fall off a boolit while in the case is not good.

Whistler
03-18-2012, 10:48 AM
If I pull my boolits from the case I can be pretty sure that at least some of them will leave the base and stay in the case. I don't believe the thread starter has any problems other than in this particular case of having to pull some.

44man
03-18-2012, 11:27 AM
If I pull my boolits from the case I can be pretty sure that at least some of them will leave the base and stay in the case. I don't believe the thread starter has any problems other than in this particular case of having to pull some.
You fail to see the problem. If the man drives to the range, do some checks fall off into the powder before he gets to shoot them?
Pulling boolits should never have checks fall off.
The purpose of the check is to stop boolit skid, not to fall off or spin.
It is part of the boolit just like a jacket is part of a bullet. I would go crazy if jackets were on the ground.
Just what does a beer can check do?

geargnasher
03-18-2012, 03:18 PM
You fail to see the problem. If the man drives to the range, do some checks fall off into the powder before he gets to shoot them?
Pulling boolits should never have checks fall off.
The purpose of the check is to stop boolit skid, not to fall off or spin.
It is part of the boolit just like a jacket is part of a bullet. I would go crazy if jackets were on the ground.
Just what does a beer can check do?

I'm with you on this one, one reason I still buy Hornady crimp-on checks rather than buy tools to make my own. No one yet makes a tool you can use at home to properly swage a reverse-taper to the edge of the check cup so it will "crimp" the shank when sized. I've recovered my boolits after going through tree stumps and the checks were still on them. The only time I ever lost any in the cases was when I was dinking with the Swedish Mausers and using .266" checks with .272" boolits and .270" neck ID with boolits that had undersized shanks. They would come off every time I pulled a boolit. Honing the check shank in the mould solved the problem.

Gear

Whistler
03-18-2012, 06:13 PM
The only time I've lost checks in the case is when I've pullet a bullet from the case... It happens when the bullet releases with kinetic force or by being drawn out by a collet without anything pushing from behind. When there is an ignition of a proper amount of powder pushing on the check it will always do its job and seal up behind the boolit. If it is loose, then it falls off after the muzzle, if not it will stay on.

If we're talking bottleneck cases with a low case fill ratio, then I'm with you guys. My first option in that case would be to switch to a slower powder and make sure the case is filled.

gloob
12-25-2022, 02:15 AM
I had a check fall off the bullet before I seated it. I set that bullet aside, worrying the check could fall off in the case. After I was done loading for the day, I decided to sacrifice a case to find out.

I slipped the check back on the bullet and verified I could easily pull it on/off with my fingers. Then I seated it in an empty case and cut the cartridge in half, just below where the base of the bullet would be. At the OAL for my rifle, the mouth of the check end up right where the neck starts. This was expected just eyeballing a bullet against a case. Plus there's the fact that on the few I have ever pulled, the check has always stayed in the case.

But despite my best efforts with picks and hot glue, I could not get the check to come off. I'm not saying this would be the case for your ammo. It depends on your cartridge and your seating depth. I'm saying you could check for yourself, if it eases your mind. All it takes is sacrificing one bullet and case.

gwpercle
12-25-2022, 02:08 PM
A primer alone should get them out of the case. But make absolutely sure your barrel is clear between shots!

And now how do you get a stuck gas check out of the rifle barrel ?

Primers are a sad thing to waste ... Get a small pair of needle nose plairs , like used in jewelry making ... hold the case up so the check can be grabbed and pulled out of the case through the neck ... save them Primers !
Gary

mehavey
12-25-2022, 03:06 PM
how do you get a stuck gas check out of the rifle barrel ?Whether pushing the bullet back out (rod from the muzzle) or all the way through from the breech, the GC goes with it.
No problemmo . . .

As to getting a GC out of a case... ice pick to the side of the gascheck to up-end it sideways in the neck, then remove w/ needle-nose and or forceps/tweezers

frkelly74
12-25-2022, 03:58 PM
It's fun to read through these old posts that get resurrected. I wonder where all those banned members have gone off to. I remember enjoying geargnashers posts and runfiverrun ad 44mans also.

I resorted to superglue in one instance to get the checks to stay on a 6.5 boolit I was playing with. I managed to get one boolit superglued into a push through sizer die, you have to make sure the glue is set before sizing. I ended up melting the boolit out of the die and re polishing the inside of the die, no serious damage done.

Turning the hung up check sideways in the case and extracting it with hemostats is as near a correct solution as I have ever come up with.

pcmacd
12-25-2022, 10:33 PM
And if all else fails? You can...

--->>> throw out the case, or

--->>> put a stout dose of fast propellant in the case with a wax plug in front and just shoot the thing out.

This ain't rocket science, dude.

I'm just sayin'

///