X-Die Setup

[BulletFactory]

I still have some confusion about setting the headspace after reading the instructions for the X dies online.

In the instructions it shows you how to set up the dies by raising the ram, lowering the die to contact the shellholder, lowering the ram and turning the die in 1/4 turn so that the press will cam over at the top of the stroke.

But how do I set up the proper headspace by doing this? My rifle headspaces at 1.631. From what I have read on the M-14 forums, I am supposed to set the bullets up at 1.627, giving them .004" breathing room.

How do I accomplish this?

I've never done this part of reloading before, this is all new to me.

Thanks.

[BulletFactory]

Did I put this in the wrong spot?

[Larry Gibson]

BulletFactory

I still have some confusion about setting the headspace after reading the instructions for the X dies online.

In the instructions it shows you how to set up the dies by raising the ram, lowering the die to contact the shellholder, lowering the ram and turning the die in 1/4 turn so that the press will cam over at the top of the stroke.

But how do I set up the proper headspace by doing this? My rifle headspaces at 1.631. From what I have read on the M-14 forums, I am supposed to set the bullets up at 1.627, giving them .004" breathing room.

How do I accomplish this?

The instructions are for generic set up. The X Die can be set up like any other FL die to adjust the case headspace to match the chamber headspace, just as you want to do it. So, with the mandrell backed out or removed adjust the X Die to give the case headspace you want.

Then, as per the instructions run the case up into the die (with the mandrel back in) and screw the mandrel down solid against the case mouth. The additionally sized cases should then not get any longer than the 1st case. The cases to be sized need to be close to the same oal but not exact.

Larry Gibson

[Bwana]

Larry is spot on. The only thing I would add is that since the case mouth impinges on the bottom of the mandrel you might want to give a slight touch with your chamfer/debburring tool after sizing. That's what I do anyway. I used it for my 308 and it worked as advertised.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I got one for .308 and .30-06. Once you figure it out you won't go back. The die functions just like a regular FL die except there is a step on the mandrel that doesn't allow the case to move forward (or lengthen) while being sized.

That's pretty much all there is to it.

I will add that the instructions are about as clearly written as the instructions for Nuclear Fusion. Hence your corn-fusion.

Randy

[Sonnypie]

I will add that the instructions are about as clearly written as the instructions for Nuclear Fusion. Hence your corn-fusion.


And that's probably why Auk-my-gin-is-bad is having so much trouble, too.... :kidding:

:lol:

[BulletFactory]

lol thanks.

I havent loaded rifles yet, its a different animal.

[BulletFactory]

I guess whats throwing me, is the part of the instructions that say to size the case, then trim them to .020 under maximum case length.

If the maximum SAAMI is 2.015, and you trim .020 off of that, then your trim to length will be 1.995.

That seems a little shorter than I have read on any forums. Most seem to trim to 2.005.

[popper]

BF The initial sizing in the die gives you the 'expected' case length. Trim the .020 off and then the case will never get too long. The die pushes any 'extra' brass into a donut at the shoulder. I would advise getting a case gauge(assume you are doing SA 223) and a set of feeler gauges. Use a fired case in the case gauge, measure how much the head sticks out of the case gauge. This gives you the HS (shoulder to head) measurement. Subtract .005 or more. Set your die to give that measurement. Write it down somewhere. Keep your primers below flush and your FP clean. Long HS can cause slam-fires out of battery - bad ju-ju. I use the AR die not the X die. I don't find the neck getting longer but the shoulder gets blown forward and then I size it back (.308). Use the hooked paper-clip trick to check for thinned case wall. Most of the brass I chuck is due to locking lug dings,(after about 6 reloads). I need to get an adjustable gas block.

[BulletFactory]

I just placed the order for the tools to load .308 (yay, at long last.)


I ordered a Lyman case gauge, a set of small base X-dies, the regular X die was out of stock.

I don't understand what you meant saying "(assume you are doing SA 223). Im loading .308 not .223

"Keep your primers below flush and your FP clean. "

Whats the FP?

[popper]

My bad, I forgot whether you were loading for M1A of Ar. I have the RCBS AR die, it only sized .001 smaller in diameter than my standard 308 die, I haven't notice any shortening of brass life due to the extra sizing. Does the X die ome with a taper crimp die? Most .308 rifle die are roll crimp - not good for most SA type bullets. The firing pin in M1A and the AR (AK) style is floating. If the pin is stuck out due to dirt and crud buildup, you can get a slam-fire(AK even goes full auto, so will may older 22s). Momentum from the firing pin moving when the bolt is slammed shut will ding the primer so you want your primer slightly below flush to prevent slam fire. Your head space MUST allow the bolt to lock up with no resistance, even with a dirty chamber (or that leading problem you had in your XD).

[BulletFactory]

right. You can get an X die with a taper, but I think its a different part #. Also, there is an AR small base die. I got this one.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/824502/rcbs-x-die-2-die-set-308-winchester-small-base

I plan on using a very minimal crimp, if any. Slam fire is a concern in an M1A, it wont happen if proper procedures are followed from what I understand, but you need to be aware of its quirks, and do what she tells you to do.

I'll be taking the extractor out of the bolt, removing the charging handle. andchecking the lockup very carefully. I also have a case gauge, and a Hornady headspace gauge on the way.

[nicholst55]

How To Set Up a Full-Length Sizing Die (http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/02/19/setting-up-a-full-length-sizing-die/), from the folks at Sinclair.

[popper]

Just got the adj-gas-block. Now to install and adjust it. BF, did you get your X-die/HS problem figured out?

[Hip's Ax]

You are going to get shorter brass life from that small base die. These were meant for tighter then minimum match chamber M1's and M1A's. I do not know a single service rifle gunsmith that uses that reamer any more. The only place these dies have now is when you buy once fired machine gun brass for the first resize.

[BulletFactory]

Thats good to know.

Any reason to avoid that type of brass?

[BulletFactory]

@ popper. yes, I figured it out.

The hornady headspace tool is magic.

[Hip's Ax]

Thats good to know.

Any reason to avoid that type of brass?

The M1A is a harsh environment for brass, the old match shooters use to load the Lake City Match brass 3 to 5 times then throw it away. Due to the short op rod and the mid barrel gas port there is still pressure present in the brass as the op rod starts extracting it. This leads to a lot of stretching.

Small Base dies were for returning the brass to the original factory dimension, the SBD works the brass far more then is necessary for a normal match chamber. The X-Dies were developed to stop further stretching in the FL resizing process. I have read reports of many more reloads being possible due to the X-Die's design. Using a SBD you are giving some of that life expectancy back.

Machine gun brass is usually bulged at the base and being a machine gun the chamber is "big and sloppy" for reliability. If MG fired brass is all you can get then that is it. Rifle fired brass is far more desireable as is virgin LC brass but that stuff is getting very hard to find.

Enjoy that rifle, I drooled over NM M1A's for years. I had a NM AR-15 first and my buddy and I swapped rifles one practice session. He is a former US Air Force Shooting Team member and his rifle is a Tom Lohman built forged Smith reciever M1A NM. It was several years before I could afford my own.

[popper]

My RCBS small base AR die only sizes the base .001 smaller. I set it to NS and only push the shoulder back enough for proper HS. Rifle is an AR, I got the new GB to reduce the extraction wear on the brass. It doesn't stretch, just a lot of neck dings from the lugs. 4x reloadings for mixed rem, win & fed and cases still look good. Some of the Fed cases have swaged PP but they deprime OK. Have to drill them ot to load a new primer.

[nanuk]

how tight does the X-die make the neck? too tight for cast?

[Larry Gibson]

how tight does the X-die make the neck? too tight for cast?

Not any different than a regular die; the neck comes out over a standard expander. Besides, you should be using a .30 or .31 cal M Die which will uniform the inside diameter.

Larry Gibson

[BulletFactory]

how tight does the X-die make the neck? too tight for cast?


http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/case-neck-expanding-tools/expand-iron_complete.html

[BulletFactory]

How many times can I reload the brass with the x dies?