How much do you reduce JPW for Recluse's 45/45/10?

[GMT210]

I've read and searched the sticky thread several times and it isn't mentioned with much authority so I thought I'd ask.

When you start with a full 16oz tub of JPW, how much do you reduce its volume down before you measure out equal parts JPW & Aox?

Once melted I've marked the level in the sauce pan on a paint stirring stick and then divided and marked the section into quarters and thirds to measure how much I've reduced it. I've reduced it down to anywhere from 1/2 to almost 1/4 of the original volume.

I was just wondering if there was a consensous on how much to reduce it. The sticky thread really just says cook it for about 20-30 mins at about 350 degrees. I'd like to clarify that part of the recipe a little bit, or understand if it matters very much.

Thanks

GMT

[Hamish]

Not having cooked it down, I cannot say whether it one is better than the other, but, post #344 from the thread:


"Being a KISS kind of guy, (OK, OK, I'm LAZY!), the whole cooking it off thing bothered me right off. So,,,,, I pared the recipe down to:
1. Set the can of JPW in a pot with enough water to not quite float the can.
2. Apply heat till it melts and shut heat off.
3. Stir in one small bottle of Alox.
Waah-Laah, Bob's yer uncle. Have used this on .45's, .303, 7.62x54, and 7.92x57 up to 2000 fps. so far."

My take on the whole thread is that the recipe has performed well as long as you dont set it on fire for an extended period of time.

[dbarnhart]

I made my first batch of 45-45-10 a couple of weeks ago. I cooked the JPW down until there was about 4 ounces left. My Lee Alox bottle was a 4-ounce bottle. Therefore I had equal parts JPW and Alox. After the cook-down and adding the Alox (I had to warm the Alox to get it to flow easily) I added 1 ounce of mineral spirits.

Once the mixture cools it is pretty stiff. It takes 2-3 minutes in the microwave to heat it up enough to use.

[randyrat]

Here is the way it is written:

[I melt the JPW, then "cook off" the solvents for approximately 15 - 20 minutes until I get a very viscal, thin liquid. I would not advise cooking the JPW over an open flame.]

The more or thorough you cook the JPW down, the more stable the lube is in the future. In other words, if you don't cook it enough it will change in time due to the petroleum products evaporating.

I have access to almost any ingredient known to man kind and I still fall back on 45/45/10 for a fast time saving lube method..I would advise to make only small batches at one time. It is so easy and fast.

[buck1]

I made my first batch a few days ago.
I melted down 1/4 can JPW and cooked it for 10-15 min. Then added 1 bottle LLA and 1/4 of that LLA bottle of oderless MS. Then I coated some RNFP .357s with 2 light coats. not the exact recipe but Seemed to work well. dry in about 15-25 min.

[GMT210]

Guys thanks for your responses, however all 4 of you gave different answers ranging from:
I never did it but here is what someone else said, just melt it, to melt a full can down to 1/4 remaining.

This is exactly why I asked the original question.

GMT

[Hamish]

Sorry GMT, what I was trying to convey is that *I* was the guy that does'nt cook it down, and it works for me. Now, as far as stabililty over long term, I cannot say, I'm still on my first can from right at a year ago.

Randyrat gave you the original skinny. 45/45/10 is Recluse's baby, and if you stick with his instructions, it is pretty hard to go wrong. I realize that does'nt quite answer the question, so:

"When you start with a full 16oz tub of JPW, how much do you reduce its volume down before you measure out equal parts JPW & Aox?"

"I melt the JPW, then "cook off" the solvents for approximately 15 - 20 minutes until I get a very viscal, thin liquid. I would not advise cooking the JPW over an open flame." "I measure by volume AFTER the JPW is cooked."

GMT, however much is left, after "cooking" for approximately 15 - 20 minutes until you get a very viscal, thin liquid, then add an equal amount of LLA, then:

"As soon as the LLA is mixed in, I turn the heat completely off the hot plate/griddle and continue to lightly stir the mix, letting it cool naturally as the griddle itself cools. This gives me time to get my funnels and empty LLA bottles ready." "As soon as the concoction has cooled enough that it won't warp or melt the LLA bottle, I add the 10% odorless mineral spirits into the mix and stir well."

Hope this helps.

@(:^]#>:::

[onesonek]

Guys thanks for your responses, however all 4 of you gave different answers ranging from:
I never did it but here is what someone else said, just melt it, to melt a full can down to 1/4 remaining.

This is exactly why I asked the original question.

GMT

I'm not sure there is a 100% answer in regards to how much to reduce.
I can see where various climate regions, may require some minor altering in that respect, but likely not a lot.
But for me, I reduce the JPW by 30%. And it works for most everything I shoot.
Liking smaller batches, I start out with 75 ml of JPW melted in a graduated beaker (high temp/flameproof), reduce it to 50 mls, then add the 50 mls of Alox/Xlox along with the MS after it has cooled some.
I found using candy thermomter, 320-330 degrees work about the best. 340-350 is pushing it to levels I didn't care to venture very long. 300 degrees seems to produce some vapor, but it's slower. While I didn't time it, seemed like about 15 mins. to reduce at the above parameters. But that will vary, with amount and surface area being applied.
And fwiw, I picked up a candy thermometer at the second hand store for a quarter. Seemed only fair to replace the one I robbed from the kitchen drawer.
All for :cbpour:

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

No right answer here.

I thought that Recluse mentioned in that thread somewhere...when asked this very question, that he stated it was reduced by 50%. It's a long thread, I ain't gonna search through it again.
Anyway, that is what I did, I cooked a 16oz can down to aproximately 8oz, then blended that with (2) 4oz bottles of LLA. then added some MS...about 10%...well I kinda guessed at it. Mine comes out the consistancy of peanut butter. I store it in a mason jar. I scoup out a boolit sized peice and add to a bowl with about 50 to 100 boolits, I then apply heat with a heatgun, swirl and dump onto a piece of waxy paper, they'll be dry when cooled off...about 10 minutes or less.
Jon

[MBTcustom]

I cooked up a big batch the other day and I used a SS pot that had markings on the side. I was surprized by how much the liquid JPW was reduced in 20 minutes of cooking. Seems like it was about 50%-75% of the starting volume when it was done. I used the scale on the side of the pot to determine an equal quantity of LLA. I just guesstimated about 10% MS and stirred it up. The resulting liquid is thin and runs easily @ room temperature, but gets thick like molasses between 40 and 60 degrees. below freezing it is decidedly gelatinous and very thick.
These characteristics are exactly the same for all the batches of 45/45/10 that I have made. I know "cook for 15-20 minutes" doesn't sound very scientific, but it works if you follow the instructions exactly.
As I understand it, the JPW is full of solvents, but they are the wrong type of solvents. They must be reduced to a certain point and then replaced by the mineral spirits in the final process. Also, it seemed like the LLA and the JPW were not mixing well until I mixed in the MS.
I am no scientist, but I understand that like water, some substances maintain a constant temperature at transition stages. Ie. water will maintain a temperature of 32 degrees as long as there is solid ice still floating in solution, and will maintain 212 degrees when boiling.
I assume that by melting the JPW and holding that temperature, a fairly accurate scientific relationship of heat vs. time is established.
Since the original recipie was put in that format, I see no reason to change it to try to make it fit in another format.

[GaryN]

I made some last summer on my little hot plate out on the lawn. It is very flammable. Don't ask. After it burned and I put it out with a bucket of water I was still able to make about a pint of the lube. It works good.

[huntrick64]

This is what I did - Please take notes to make sure you DON'T do it my way.

Took an old enamel sauce pan that would hold the full can of JPW and dumped in the full 16 ounces.

Mistake #1. The sauce pan would probably hold about 24 ounces of liquid to the top (it is a small pan).

Knew better than to do this in the house or garage so went out on the patio with my single coil hotplate complete with an 18" electrical cord (the short cord was Mistake #2)

The only thing I could find to set the hotplate on was one of those plastic (Mistake #3) wal-mart coffee tables. You know, the one that is about 14" square with plastic legs that would collapse if you put more than two glasses of iced tea on it.

Really needed an extension cord, but If I put the plastic table close enough to the house I could plug it right into the outlet and the eave of my house would keep the slight mist that was falling out of my concoction. So, I moved it under the eave. (Mistake #4) I really wasn't too worried about the heat because the eave was at least 6 1/2 feet above the pot, way too far to be an issue.

So I started out on low and the grease (A.K.A. JPW) started to melt. If you think you can smell the solvents when you open the can, wait until it starts to melt! The mist is now starting to turn into small raindrops so I better hurry. Kicked it up to medium (Mistake #5).

Now things are cooking! A steady steam (at least it looked like steam to me) was rolling out of that little pot. All of the solid stuff had melted and I am now in the "reducing" stage. Now before you all say "He's an IDIOT!", remember this is not an open flame it is a hotplate.

The liquid is now giving off quite a bit of steam (A.K.A. explosive solvent gases combined with evaporating raindrops that are hitting the boiling JPW). Somewhere between "that looks cool" and "OH MY GOSH!" The stuff flashed! Not due to any open flame just because it got too hot.

Not like "hey this stuff is on fire" but more like "why can't I see!" and why is there fire on top of my house?" The liquid is at a full boil at this point and I have a solvent gas fountain shooting flames not only up to my eave, but rolling out past the guttering and above the roofline of my house! It has started to boil over the way-too-small pot (remember mistake #1) and onto the plastic (remember mistake #3) table. Now I have flames going up and down and did I tell you I am not wearing gloves or any eye protection (let's combine them for Mistake #6).

Now sinced I am no dummy, I know the only way to put this out is to smother it out. But wait, my cheap _ss didn't get a lid with the little pot I bought at the second hand store (mistake # whatever). Immediately I grabbed a large stone (18" diameter and 4" thick) that was left over when they rocked the new addition to my home that I now have on fire. Now if that rock had been perfectly flat it would have been a good idea, but it wasn't and it also weighed about 25 lbs.(I've quit counting the mistakes at this point because it just makes me feel stupid!) Now the flames aren't shooting up as high, but they are shooting out and up in about a 2 foot diameter inferno and that **** is still boiling over and I am standing in fire! I took off to get something else when I suddenly heard a loud BOOM which I later discovered was just ME breaking the sound barrier running into the house to get something else.

I tried to not look scared or even concerned as I ran into the kitchen and grabbed a large-flat cookie sheet and some gloves. As I headed back out I heard one of my kids yelling "Mom, Dad smells like burnt feathers" which was just the remains of arm hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows. At least now I see the real benefit of a receeding hairline.

As I approached the Maltov coffee table I noticed that the melting plastic legs can't support a 25lb stone forever. The whole thing was kinda like that video clip of the Hindenburg coming down. Slow motion even slowed down some more. The slowness was what saved me. I grabbed the stone, lifted it up and threw it in the yard. I didn't even think it was possible for stone to catch on fire, but hey I have been wrong many times before this. I put the cookie sheet over the pan and set the whole thing on the patio. Grabbed my shovel and made good use of that sand in the turtle shaped sand box. Also threw some on that flaming rock and the surrounding grass.

OK, it's over! I let the whole thing cool down 30 minutes before I took the cookie sheet off. Didn't want it flashing again. When I did take off the cookie sheet, I discovered about 2 semi-liquid ounces and a bunch of black chunks in the bottom of the pan. I mixed that with equal amount of LLA and a splash of mineral spirits and ended up with a lifetime supply of this stuff. Literally, I will never have to nor will I ever make it again. It is the best tumble lube I will ever have.

The end result was that I threw away the pan, the hotplate, the coffee table, the gloves, the cookie sheet, the rock and had to clean a kryptonite/JPW compound off of my house and repaint the guttering, eave, and siding above the rock. The patio stain looks like I rebuilt an engine and tranny there.

Star lube-sizers are very reasonably priced.

[geargnasher]

The solvents in JPW are too "heavy" to evaporate quickly, so the mix works better if you remove them and add back a lighter solvent. I've tried both cooking and not cooking since it seemed counterintuitive to remove solvents and just add them back in, but I had much better shooting performance from the cooked lube. Simmering the liquid Alox and the remains of the JPW together for a while seems to make a much better lube. I think the waxes bind together better and make a harder, cleaner, less smokey lube when you cook them.

Another trick that works is to remove all the JPW from the can and spread it on a clean surface (like a cookie sheet) and leave it in the hot sun for several afternoons. When it's just a bunch of dry, crumbly chunks, throw it in a pot and melt it for about 5-10 minutes and then add your Alox. Simmer and stir for another 10-15 minutes and let it cool to about 120 degrees, then add some mineral spirits and stir. Allow it to cool to room temperature and check the viscosity, it should be about like 10W-30 engine oil. If it's still too thick, add more MS.

Gear

[runfiverun]

This is what I did - Please take notes to make sure you DON'T do it my way.

Took an old enamel sauce pan that would hold the full can of JPW and dumped in the full 16 ounces.

Mistake #1. The sauce pan would probably hold about 24 ounces of liquid to the top (it is a small pan).

Knew better than to do this in the house or garage so went out on the patio with my single coil hotplate complete with an 18" electrical cord (the short cord was Mistake #2)

The only thing I could find to set the hotplate on was one of those plastic (Mistake #3) wal-mart coffee tables. You know, the one that is about 14" square with plastic legs that would collapse if you put more than two glasses of iced tea on it.

Really needed an extension cord, but If I put the plastic table close enough to the house I could plug it right into the outlet and the eave of my house would keep the slight mist that was falling out of my concoction. So, I moved it under the eave. (Mistake #4) I really wasn't too worried about the heat because the eave was at least 6 1/2 feet above the pot, way too far to be an issue.

So I started out on low and the grease (A.K.A. JPW) started to melt. If you think you can smell the solvents when you open the can, wait until it starts to melt! The mist is now starting to turn into small raindrops so I better hurry. Kicked it up to medium (Mistake #5).

Now things are cooking! A steady steam (at least it looked like steam to me) was rolling out of that little pot. All of the solid stuff had melted and I am now in the "reducing" stage. Now before you all say "He's an IDIOT!", remember this is not an open flame it is a hotplate.

The liquid is now giving off quite a bit of steam (A.K.A. explosive solvent gases combined with evaporating raindrops that are hitting the boiling JPW). Somewhere between "that looks cool" and "OH MY GOSH!" The stuff flashed! Not due to any open flame just because it got too hot.

Not like "hey this stuff is on fire" but more like "why can't I see!" and why is there fire on top of my house?" The liquid is at a full boil at this point and I have a solvent gas fountain shooting flames not only up to my eave, but rolling out past the guttering and above the roofline of my house! It has started to boil over the way-too-small pot (remember mistake #1) and onto the plastic (remember mistake #3) table. Now I have flames going up and down and did I tell you I am not wearing gloves or any eye protection (let's combine them for Mistake #6).

Now sinced I am no dummy, I know the only way to put this out is to smother it out. But wait, my cheap _ss didn't get a lid with the little pot I bought at the second hand store (mistake # whatever). Immediately I grabbed a large stone (18" diameter and 4" thick) that was left over when they rocked the new addition to my home that I now have on fire. Now if that rock had been perfectly flat it would have been a good idea, but it wasn't and it also weighed about 25 lbs.(I've quit counting the mistakes at this point because it just makes me feel stupid!) Now the flames aren't shooting up as high, but they are shooting out and up in about a 2 foot diameter inferno and that **** is still boiling over and I am standing in fire! I took off to get something else when I suddenly heard a loud BOOM which I later discovered was just ME breaking the sound barrier running into the house to get something else.

I tried to not look scared or even concerned as I ran into the kitchen and grabbed a large-flat cookie sheet and some gloves. As I headed back out I heard one of my kids yelling "Mom, Dad smells like burnt feathers" which was just the remains of arm hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows. At least now I see the real benefit of a receeding hairline.

As I approached the Maltov coffee table I noticed that the melting plastic legs can't support a 25lb stone forever. The whole thing was kinda like that video clip of the Hindenburg coming down. Slow motion even slowed down some more. The slowness was what saved me. I grabbed the stone, lifted it up and threw it in the yard. I didn't even think it was possible for stone to catch on fire, but hey I have been wrong many times before this. I put the cookie sheet over the pan and set the whole thing on the patio. Grabbed my shovel and made good use of that sand in the turtle shaped sand box. Also threw some on that flaming rock and the surrounding grass.

OK, it's over! I let the whole thing cool down 30 minutes before I took the cookie sheet off. Didn't want it flashing again. When I did take off the cookie sheet, I discovered about 2 semi-liquid ounces and a bunch of black chunks in the bottom of the pan. I mixed that with equal amount of LLA and a splash of mineral spirits and ended up with a lifetime supply of this stuff. Literally, I will never have to nor will I ever make it again. It is the best tumble lube I will ever have.

The end result was that I threw away the pan, the hotplate, the coffee table, the gloves, the cookie sheet, the rock and had to clean a kryptonite/JPW compound off of my house and repaint the guttering, eave, and siding above the rock. The patio stain looks like I rebuilt an engine and tranny there.

Star lube-sizers are very reasonably priced.


i just had a flash back to most of my attempts at most everything.

[randyrat]

{ The patio looks like I rebuilt an engine and tranny there} That made me swallow my chew and I still have tears in my eyes

[twotoescharlie]

don't know what type "dryer" is in JPW, but why cook it down if you are going to add it back in with mineral spirits? just curious.

TTC

[GMT210]

Thanks for all of the responses, I'm not to far off when I end up with a 1/2 to 1/4 of a full tub before measuring 50/50 ration with Alox. I didn't think I was the only one out there that measured this, but I guess you never know unless you ask the question.

Thanks again

GMT

[dRok]

Ive never done this before but I reduced my JPW by 50%, melted that and mixed with equal amounts of alox, 4oz each, 2oz red carnuba stick lube and 2/3 cup mineral spirits. When it is room temperature it is thick, about the consistency of ketchup but it warms fast in a hot water bath. I lubed up a batch of 1000 bullets with it but havent loaded any yet.

[geargnasher]

don't know what type "dryer" is in JPW, but why cook it down if you are going to add it back in with mineral spirits? just curious.

TTC

see post 13.

Gear

[wrench]

huntrick, that story made me laugh so hard I cried, thankyou, and I hope your hair grew back.

[Bullet Caster]

When I made the 45/45/10 Recluse lube, I started out by melting the whole can o' wax and since I had no hot plate nor thermometer, I used my kerosene heater instead. I left the can o' wax on the top of the heater for about 1 to 2 hours and by this time it had cooked off about 1/3 of the contents by volume. After that I poured the melted wax into a measuring cup to the 4 oz. line and added a full bottle of LLA and stirred the contents for about 15 minutes. After I took the mix off the heater I added only 1 cap full of MS. This made enough lube to refill my LLA bottle and another hair color application bottle full. Haven't even used up one bottle yet. But I have fired rounds lubed with it and it works well for my 9mm, 45ACP and 45 Colt. The lube is very stiff and will not pour when cold. I heat it up in the microwave for about 40 sec. to warm it up and squirt a C pattern on about 100 boolits at a time. I also use the hair dryer to heat up the boolits in my tumble lube plastic bowl then add the lube and tumble. Works great. I have enough JPW left to heat up again and mix with another bottle of Alox to make even more lube. I use 50% of the 45/45/10 mixed by volume with 50% melted beeswax for making lube for my rifle boolits. I could pan lube with this lube but it is very messy. I usually ranch dip my rifle boolits--keeps lube off the noses. BC

[huntrick64]

Oh, the hair grew back, the grass grew back, and the rest was repainted. I rarely go to that area of the patio anyway, and just to be safe I parked the 4-wheeler over the spot. You know, those things leak fluids over time and leave really nasty stains on the concrete.;-)

I have since come up with a pretty slick way to lube my bullets with that unrepeatable concoction I made. I use a blow dryer on high to preheat the bullets in my cool whip container before I squirt on the lube. It takes very little lube to quickly and evenly coat the bullets. The hot bullets make the lube dry quickly and are not sticky at all. I can load them 15 minutes after I lube them. It ended up being a great lube, but when it's gone, it will be gone for good.

I have started pan-lubing using a double boiler as a safety precaution to melt the lube and placing my bullets in those silicon baking dishes. Problem is that I end up with unwanted lube on the nose of the bullet which in turn gets on the cases when I dump them into bulk containers. I then have to wipe the lube off each case so it grabs the cylinder wall upon ignition. Pretty time consuming compared to the TL method.

I started saving for that Star Luber, but might take the money I have so far and just buy a large chemical fire extinguisher. I will probably see more return on my investment with the extinguisher.

[huntrick64]

Hey Bullet Caster; ditto on the blow dryer. I would say "great minds think alike", but would never put anyone in the same category as myself since I was the Grand Marshal of the Igno-Parade in 2011.

[Elkins45]

"Molotov coffee table"

There are so many reasons why that made me laugh, most of which I would be too embarrassed to tell a stranger :)

[ubetcha]

Huntrick, Good story.I love it.Sound like the one think Recluse told awhile back. :bigsmyl2::lol:

[geargnasher]

Huntrick, that was told in true Patrick F. McManus style! POOF, no eyebrows!

Gear

[Recluse]

Huntrick, that sounded a lot like some of my pan-lubing experiences. . .

You wouldn't happen to have any kinfolks around Texas or the swamps of Louisiana would you? My wife swears we might be related. I told her to go check the family tree and she told me she couldn't 'cause I burned it down during one of my early smelting sessions (which was also in the rain. . . ).

:coffee:

[popper]

I don't cook anything, except for making Recluse's stuff. I will add a safety note. Flammable substances have a flash temp and smoke temp. The flash temp is REDUCED when the smoke temp is reached. It doesn't take an open flame to cause combustion! Most hydraulic fluid (ATF included) have a 30% reduced flash temp when as little as 10% water is added.

[dragon813gt]

So I made a batch of 45/45/10 over the weekend. It's almost the same consistency as the original JPW and I reduced it down to 4oz by volume. The LLA was extremely thick and I had a hard time getting it out of the bottle even after heating it up. Is there a way to fix this?


Brought to you by TapaTalk.

[GMT210]

Dragon813,

Add some mineral spirits first and see how you like it. The more spirits you add the longer it will take to dry. I usually heat up the bullets and the lube before applying, otherwise it will sieze up and not coat the bullets.

GMT

[huntrick64]

Recluse, we just might be related! I can't tell you where my up-line comes from because we either forgot, or it was just too confusing to begin with.

I will definitely add "Don't boil JPW" to my list of "things I have learned". It will fall somewhere below "don't ever take a sleeping pill and a laxative at the same time!" and somewhere above "Don't ever pull your dad's finger". I get smarter by the minute!

My wife says we should really think about getting rid of that leaky 4-wheeler :wink:

[daddyseal]

Forgive me...but what is JPW?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Johnson's Paste Wax
available at most hardware stores and box stores like Menards and Lowes.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CbrvudVbA5I/T34CIIVUB-I/AAAAAAAAETM/zXsc1DKWR6s/s1600/woodcleaner01-0410-xl.jpg&imgrefurl=http://alaskanbargainhunter.blogspot.com/2012/04/hearth-and-home-make-your-own-non-toxic.html&h=360&w=460&sz=57&tbnid=LyeqQqf_rqCNOM:&tbnh=96&tbnw=123&prev=/search%3Fq%3DJohnson's%2BPaste%2BWax%2Bimage%26tbm %3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=Johnson's+Paste+Wax+image&usg=__YEm6mwB9hcomj9zEXoTm1G49b1U=&docid=Uy2yjhNmJNfXEM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=UqftT_mcIoK68ASa--mPDQ&ved=0CEsQ9QEwAw&dur=3541

[odfairfaxsub]

not having cooked it down, i cannot say whether it one is better than the other, but, post #344 from the thread:


"being a kiss kind of guy, (ok, ok, i'm lazy!), the whole cooking it off thing bothered me right off. So,,,,, i pared the recipe down to:
1. Set the can of jpw in a pot with enough water to not quite float the can.
2. Apply heat till it melts and shut heat off.
3. Stir in one small bottle of alox.
Waah-laah, bob's yer uncle. Have used this on .45's, .303, 7.62x54, and 7.92x57 up to 2000 fps. So far."

my take on the whole thread is that the recipe has performed well as long as you dont set it on fire for an extended period of time.

++++1

[Hamish]

Gosh, huntrick fit's right in aroun' here, don' he? Have you ever noticed that in the truly great stories, it's not the first mistake that gets you in trouble, it's the fifth, sixth, or seventh.

DAMHIKT

[pastor]

huntrick......


OMG LOLOLOLOLOL................best post of the year!!!!!!!!!!

[Jeffrey]

Huntrick, that was told in true Patrick F. McManus style! POOF, no eyebrows!

Gear

+1 on sounding like McManus. Post 12 could easily go in humor section.

[daddyseal]

What is the point of cooking out the solvents in the JPW...and then adding some back in with the mineral spirits, please?

[geargnasher]

What is the point of cooking out the solvents in the JPW...and then adding some back in with the mineral spirits, please?

It is counterintuitive, but it really does matter that you do it Recluse's way.

We had an in-depth discussion recently about this, I forget which thread it was in. The short version is that the JPW and liquid Alox need to be cooked together for a few minutes to make the lube perform as well as it can, and that requires eliminating most of the solvent content of the JPW beforehand. There is a chemical change to the stuff when they are heated together, and it makes a much better, much less smoky lube. The mineral spirits that are added back also have a higher volatility than the stuff you cook off, so the lube dries faster. I've done it both ways and I ALWAYS reduce the JPW as much as I can before adding the liquid Alox to it. When I'm done, I correct the consistency with mineral spirits so it's the viscocity I want at room temperature. Also, the JPW is over 50% solvent by volume, and you add back 10% total to the mix, so you're eliminating 45%+ of the solvent content of the JPW by the time the mix is finished. The Liquid Alox has about a 50% solvent content as well, so some of that is cooked off too. Heating the reduced JPW and Liquid Alox together makes them bond and homogenize, and each lends a desireable property to the other while also elmininating an undesireable property in the other.

Gear

[daddyseal]

It is counterintuitive, but it really does matter that you do it Recluse's way.

We had an in-depth discussion recently about this, I forget which thread it was in. The short version is that the JPW and liquid Alox need to be cooked together for a few minutes to make the lube perform as well as it can, and that requires eliminating most of the solvent content of the JPW beforehand. There is a chemical change to the stuff when they are heated together, and it makes a much better, much less smoky lube. The mineral spirits that are added back also have a higher volatility than the stuff you cook off, so the lube dries faster. I've done it both ways and I ALWAYS reduce the JPW as much as I can before adding the liquid Alox to it. When I'm done, I correct the consistency with mineral spirits so it's the viscocity I want at room temperature. Also, the JPW is over 50% solvent by volume, and you add back 10% total to the mix, so you're eliminating 45%+ of the solvent content of the JPW by the time the mix is finished. The Liquid Alox has about a 50% solvent content as well, so some of that is cooked off too. Heating the reduced JPW and Liquid Alox together makes them bond and homogenize, and each lends a desireable property to the other while also elmininating an undesireable property in the other.

Gear
Gotcha...thanks for the answer, friend~~

[Del-Ray]

My take on the whole thread is that the recipe has performed well as long as you dont set it on fire for an extended period of time.

Err.....

I slapped a bunch in a pyrex cup. And held a lighter to it till the fumes caught and the flame stayed lit. After several minutes it had all melted and I added more JPW till I had liquid at the 6oz line. I then let it burn off till it hit the 4oz mark, put the flames out, and added the LLA, waited a bit longer, and added the MS.

It works fine for me.

But -DO NOT USE THE WIFE'S BRAND NEW PYREX CUP FOR THIS!- She will not believe that the "dishwasher must have done it", when you can't get the black burn marks off the cup.