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View Full Version : Can I see some pictures of a hollow point pin?



MBTcustom
03-09-2012, 08:07 PM
I am thinking of hollow pointing one of my .452 RN molds. I have an RCBS that is smiling at me. I realy want a devistator style pin but I have never even held a HP mold so I dont have a good grasp of what I am after. I could easily design something, but these are my dads molds passed to me, so there is zero room for error. Any pictures or descriptions would be helpful, as well as tips for what the best fit is for the pin (ie. -.0005? -.001?) and things to watch for or designs that may work better etc. etc. etc.
Please educate me!

MBTcustom
03-09-2012, 08:08 PM
Also, is it helpful to have a slight "hollow grind" on the pin or the oposit, or is a strait taper better?
Thanks!

Lefty SRH
03-09-2012, 09:55 PM
PM me your email and I'll take a few of mine.

StratsMan
03-09-2012, 10:39 PM
GS...

I've taken a bunch of photos of my 452 Devastator... you can view them at:

https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/19278538/1/452_Devastator?h=5e5426

Hopefully they are self explanatory... the only dimension I didn't show is the end of the pin, which is just shy of .100"... it's a straight taper... I haven't tested the expansion characteristics, but I've read others... they say there's a reason it's called Devastator...

StratsMan

Mk42gunner
03-10-2012, 01:35 AM
Also, is it helpful to have a slight "hollow grind" on the pin or the oposit, or is a strait taper better?
Thanks!

I think if you put a hollow grind on a HP pin, you will lock the pin in the boolit and either never get it out, or destroy the nose pulling the pin.

My Lyman HP pins seem to have a convex proflie, but I have never actually measured them. The ones that I have made as replacements are tapered; usually by the pin in a drill and a file method.

I have used brazing rod and steel for pins, I use sandpaper on them until they are a decent sliding fit. You don't want them too tight; you have to be able to pull the pin prior to cutting the sprue. The 358429HP that I bought missing the pin, I used 5/32" brazing rod and set the depth about half the nose length.

Once you get the mold drilled, you can experiment with various sizes and depths or the pin for your desired expansion.

I am not a machinist, you undoubtedly have a better way to accomplish this than I do.

Good Luck,

Robert

P.S. Sorry for no pictures, my daughter killed the last two digital cameras we had. One she wore out, the other one got dropped off her dresser.

R

Beerd
03-10-2012, 06:41 PM
have you seen the sticky about hollow pointing a Lee mould?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=123677
..

Max Brand
03-10-2012, 09:51 PM
Best I can tell Miha's are a straight taper as illustrated below. These are from his 452-200 mould.
They start at .19" and taper to .11"

I forgot to add that the length of taper is .3"

Hope this helps.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1992/10790285/19219291/401521767.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1992/10790285/19219291/401521768.jpg

Max

MBTcustom
03-11-2012, 08:22 AM
Thank you for all the great replys fellas. All those HP pins seem very similar in design (inside the boolit) so thats what I was after. good deal.

Ben
03-11-2012, 09:32 AM
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=87686

Wayne Smith
03-12-2012, 08:23 AM
PM Buckshot. He's got lots of experience with this.