Lee mold issue

[Fortkevin2]

Hi Guys,
I ended up breaking a sprue plate lever on my 6 cavity lee mold. As of now I have replaced the sprue plate lever but the mold is still full of lead and stuck closed. What would be the best way to heat up the mold/lead inside to be able to break off the spruces and get the bullets out?

I was thinking maybe heat the mold up in the oven then trying. As of now its solid. Thanks ahead of time.

[John Boy]

You broke the sprue plate lever because you were casting with the melt too cold to release the bullets. Presume you have determined this.

As for the bullets still in the mold - heating the bottom of the mold with a propane torch will allow the mold halves to open up. KEEP WORKING the torch back in forth, not heating it constantly in one spot. Also, keep working the sprue plate to determine when the bullets are soft enough to be released

But heating the mold over an electric or gas burner is the best way to heat the mold to release the bullets

[Elkins45]

I'm not a guy who is deathly afraid of lead poisoning, but I don't think I would put a mold full of bullets in my cooking oven. I would use a propane torch to gently heat it until it releases.

BTW I'm not intending to be pedantic but it's a sprue plate, not spruce.

[mooman76]

Just set it on top of your pot while it is heating up. If that doesn't quite do it stick the corner including the sprue plat in the melt until it's hot enough that all the lead comes off easily.

[Fortkevin2]

I'm not a guy who is deathly afraid of lead poisoning, but I don't think I would put a mold full of bullets in my cooking oven. I would use a propane torch to gently heat it until it releases.

BTW I'm not intending to be pedantic but it's a sprue plate, not spruce.

You make good point. I guess I should have stated but I have a spare oven that I use in the shop for duracoat etc.

Thanks for letting me know the correct word.

I will give the torch idea a try tonight. Thanks

[runfiverun]

unless that oven has a 650* setting, all you'll have is a warm mold.
i'd just melt it out on the pot edge,dipping it.
then clean it all up and cast with it.

[geargnasher]

You broke the sprue plate lever because you were casting with the melt too cold to release the bullets. Presume you have determined this.

As for the bullets still in the mold - heating the bottom of the mold with a propane torch will allow the mold halves to open up. KEEP WORKING the torch back in forth, not heating it constantly in one spot. Also, keep working the sprue plate to determine when the bullets are soft enough to be released

But heating the mold over an electric or gas burner is the best way to heat the mold to release the bullets

He didn't break it because the MELT was too cool, he broke it because the MOULD was too cold and the alloy probably froze solid before he filled the last cavity.

Preheat the mould and fill just one cavity to test it, preferably the cavity closest to the sprue plate pivot bolt.

Gear

[Carolina Cast Bullets]

Find a cheap electric hot plate, one with a variable heat contol
and a used/dull circular saw blade.

Put the blade on the hot plate, turn it to med/high, set the mold on the blade and wait about 15 or 20 minutes. then open the sprue.

Use the hotplate/blade to heat molds BEFORE you cast.

Put the molds on the hotplate, turn on your lead pot and when the lead is melted, the mold is
ready too.

Jerry
Carolina Cast Bullets

[RG_86]

LOL I did this last week. Kinda makes you feel like a moron for not letting the mold and lead get warm enough. anyways I just used a Propane torch and heated the mold while moving the torch around the mold in attempts to keep from warping it. I have since cast with that mold and all seems to be fine. Lee was pretty good about it after some light ribbing they sent me new parts, plus a back up set for free. I was rather impressed with em over it.

[MikeS]

Another thing you can do to make your life much easier is to replace the cam lever. KAL Tool (RedRiverRick on the forum here) makes a replacement handle that's much stronger (it's made from steel, not sintered metal like the original Lee handle), and the way the cam is made on his handle it's much easier to cut the sprue as the cam has a longer duration. I've replaced the handles on my Lee 6 cavity moulds with these handles and I couldn't be happier with them.

Another investment would be to get a hotplate to preheat the moulds on before casting. You could also use it to heat up your mould that's full of lead, and once it's up to normal casting temp it will cut the sprues just like normal.

[fredj338]

You broke the sprue plate lever because you were casting with the melt too cold to release the bullets. Presume you have determined this.


That is true, but the real reason is Lee makes cheap ****. If the spru plate handle were just about anything but the pot metal they use, it would never break.[smilie=b:

[sargenv]

One way I found to warm up my mold besides leaving on top of the pot, is to fill 2 cavs, then 3, then 4, and so on until all 6 can be filled and the mold comes up to temp.. having snapped a couple of these before.. *shrug* you get what you pay for and other than that little oopsie, I've made thousands of bullets with these seemingly "Cheap" molds.

[DLCTEX]

If the Lee six cavity sprue plates were made of better material the moulds would have to double in price. I have no problems with the current design by preheating the mould on a hotplate and get six keeper boolits from the start. Without a hotplate you start casting in the front cavity until it is hot enough, then add a cavity at a time until the mould is up to working temp. If you don't do this you will break the sprue handle. You can spend the price of a new 6 cav from Midway or other discount place to get a steel sprue plate if you choose to.