Brand New Yugo M48 barrel

[Pirate69]

Widener has some surplus barrels. Does anyone know if the threads on these barrels are the standard threads for the '98 Mauser? I have a '98 mauser that the bore is gone in it. I may try to rebarrel. Thanks for any input.

[tomme boy]

If they are the Yugo barrels, they are the standard 98 LR thread. They will have the ring for the extractor cut. Yo will have to cut yours when it is fully chambered

[Pirate69]

It that an expensive task along with rebarreling?

[trooperdan]

D'oh! I just made a post about these barrels, never thought to check for a thread! Well, I had other info as well! :)
Cutting the extractor cut is a piece of cake... IF you have the right machine for it otherwise, a minor pain!

[tomme boy]

You can do it with a file or dremmil if you are careful. Once the barrel has had the HS set, Mark the slot on the right side where it needs to be and unscrew the barrel. Then cut the slot were it needs to be and tighten the barrel back up and test it.

I had a few of these about 10 years ago and they are very good barrels.

[bcp477]

This may seem controversial to some, but I'll mention it anyway.

You can also remove the barrel boss (the "c" shaped extension on the chamber end, which is what needs to be indexed when installing a barrel). This causes NO problems, as long as the brass you will be using in the rifle is in good condition. The "safety" breech design was created early in the 20th century, to compensate for the relatively poor quality of brass of that time, as compared to now. With good quality modern brass and loads that are not on the ragged edge.....the safety breech is not really necessary.

I removed this feature, when I rebarreled my M48, a few years ago. I used a file for this, along with an accurate machinist's square. Thus, I didn't have to worry about indexing the barrel at all - only adjusting the external barrel shoulder, to get the headspace to a minimum. I did this with a file , as well. As I only shoot hand loads, well below maximum pressure, I had no fear of problems.

As I thought would be the case, there have been NO problems. The rifle is quite safe, has really tight headspace.....and excellent accuracy. I did all of the work myself - for only the cost of the barrel ($34).

[tomme boy]

The Yugo intermediate actions are the only one using this. I have built about 4 of these up into other calibers. None of the ones I redid used this. The normal 98 barrels do not use this. I also had to thin the extractor a little on each so that it would fully close.

[vintagesportsman]

I am going to do a Yugo actioned .308 bull barrel. Some folks say the extractor cut is not needed, maybe some stoning of the extractor though. Anyone else ever re-barreled the yugo 48?

[bruce drake]

I've rebarreled two Yugo 48s. One to 22-250 and the other just recently to 6.5 Creedmoor. Cutting the extractor cut is not required for the rifle to headspace and operate properly.

Bruce

[ilcop22]

I bought a few of those recently from Wideners. They're definitely in great condition; in the white. If you have the means to properly chamber it, they're worth the low price.

[tomme boy]

Like I said above, you will have to thin the extractor a little to make the bolt close. Just make sure when you are setting the HS to have the bolt completely taken apart and use the bolt body only to check the HS. You will not get a good reading if the bolt is together.

[David2011]

Agreeing with the above posts. The extractor cut is unnecessary and the bolt should be stripped for headspacing. I've done a few Yugo rebarrels myself and helped my students do several as well. It's not hard if properly equipped; just go slowly and sneak up on the final dimensions. Clean the reamer and chamber thoroughly every few turns and use plenty of cutting oil.

David

[johnnybar]

I bought a few of those recently from Wideners. They're definitely in great condition; in the white. If you have the means to properly chamber it, they're worth the low price.

I thought these were fully chambered and throated. Headspace can be adjusted on the shoulder and the shank (boss) on a lathe. No reamer required or did I miss something?

[bcp477]

I thought these were fully chambered and throated. Headspace can be adjusted on the shoulder and the shank (boss) on a lathe. No reamer required or did I miss something?




The barrel I used WAS fully chambered and finished. It was sold as a "take off" M48 barrel.....by Numrich. When I received it, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was NOT a take off barrel at all, but rather a SPARE barrel, that had never been mounted. It was, essentially, a BRAND NEW 50-plus year old barrel....and it was PRISTINE.

A good way to tell about this is whether the barrel in question has only a proof mark...or whether it has an assembly number (in addition to the proof mark). If NO assembly number (which the Yugoslavs stamped on each part after initial fitting, to identify groups of parts for final assembly)....then the barrel is probably a spare, like mine.

If I were you, I would contact the seller directly and ask whether the barrels in question are BLANKS.....or whether they are actual Yugo surplus. If surplus, then more than likely they are fully chambered. In that circumstance, there will be no need for chamber reaming or finish reaming. Just mount the barrel for minimal headspace (which can be done by simply adjusting the outer torque shoulder).....deal with the extractor groove issue, as needed, and you're done.

Oh and one more thing - barrel torque. The original barrels on ALL of the military Mausers were always installed with too much torque. This was done to "crush fit" the threads....and bring head space to the final dimension. In other words, the barrel shank was left just a wee bit long, then the barrel was over-torqued to achieve the final head space. A bloody STUPID practice, if you ask me - and completely unnecessary. All this method of fitting does is damage the threads and ensure that barrel removal (later) will be a giant PITA ! Do yourself a great favor and DO NOT do it this way. All you need to do is cut back the outer torque shoulder a wee bit more than absolutely necessary, so that the barrel face will bottom out against the inner C-ring, when the barrel is screwed in. Then, you will automatically have minimal head space, which is very desirable. The barrel should be installed with NO MORE than about 75 ft-lbs. NO more torque is needed - it will NOT "shoot loose". You can easily time the sight bases afterward....or, as in my case, I installed them from scratch, after barrel installation (I removed them from the barrel before I mounted it).

[craig61a]

http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/8x57-mm-yugoslavian-mauser-barrel.aspx?a=965879I

I see that Sportsmans Guide has these also...

[zuke]

Now I need a reason to pick up one of these.

[johnnybar]

I've rebarreled two Yugo 48s. One to 22-250 and the other just recently to 6.5 Creedmoor. Cutting the extractor cut is not required for the rifle to headspace and operate properly.

Bruce


Let me make sure that I'm clear on this:
1. Turn the safety boss off for 98/22, M48, M48A and VZ24 actions. Then headspace on outer shoulder. Trim remaining barrel shank only if necessary for bolt clearance on 98's and 24's. Trim for boss crush on 48's and 48A's.
2. Optional to leave safety boss on for M48 and M48A. Then notch for extractor clearance.
3. If stamped, they should be fully chambered and throated for surplus 8mm. May need throating for long boolits.

You guys with hands and eyes on please give me guidance here. I'll be buying 10 to 15 barrels if they are what I think they are.

[johnnybar]

The barrel I used WAS fully chambered and finished. It was sold as a "take off" M48 barrel.....by Numrich. When I received it, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it was NOT a take off barrel at all, but rather a SPARE barrel, that had never been mounted. It was, essentially, a BRAND NEW 50-plus year old barrel....and it was PRISTINE.

A good way to tell about this is whether the barrel in question has only a proof mark...or whether it has an assembly number (in addition to the proof mark). If NO assembly number (which the Yugoslavs stamped on each part after initial fitting, to identify groups of parts for final assembly)....then the barrel is probably a spare, like mine.

If I were you, I would contact the seller directly and ask whether the barrels in question are BLANKS.....or whether they are actual Yugo surplus. If surplus, then more than likely they are fully chambered. In that circumstance, there will be no need for chamber reaming or finish reaming. Just mount the barrel for minimal headspace (which can be done by simply adjusting the outer torque shoulder).....deal with the extractor groove issue, as needed, and you're done.

Oh and one more thing - barrel torque. The original barrels on ALL of the military Mausers were always installed with too much torque. This was done to "crush fit" the threads....and bring head space to the final dimension. In other words, the barrel shank was left just a wee bit long, then the barrel was over-torqued to achieve the final head space. A bloody STUPID practice, if you ask me - and completely unnecessary. All this method of fitting does is damage the threads and ensure that barrel removal (later) will be a giant PITA ! Do yourself a great favor and DO NOT do it this way. All you need to do is cut back the outer torque shoulder a wee bit more than absolutely necessary, so that the barrel face will bottom out against the inner C-ring, when the barrel is screwed in. Then, you will automatically have minimal head space, which is very desirable. The barrel should be installed with NO MORE than about 75 ft-lbs. NO more torque is needed - it will NOT "shoot loose". You can easily time the sight bases afterward....or, as in my case, I installed them from scratch, after barrel installation (I removed them from the barrel before I mounted it).

Can all large ring, large thread actions use the C ring and shank end for headspacing with these Yugo barrels? Assuming with the option to double "crush" torque to 75 on the shoulder too.???

[johnnybar]

Spoke to one vendor and they won't unwrap the waxed paper original packaging to look for stampings. :-?

[bcp477]

Can all large ring, large thread actions use the C ring and shank end for headspacing with these Yugo barrels? Assuming with the option to double "crush" torque to 75 on the shoulder too.???


Yes. Essentially, all of the large ring, large thread actions are the same, EXCEPT for total action length. Thus, the barrels are interchangeable, notwithstanding the "safety breech" boss, on the Yugo barrels.

Even though this is true, you STILL need to check for proper head space with a gauge - don't just assume that it will be acceptable, if mounting the barrel as I described.

[bcp477]

Spoke to one vendor and they won't unwrap the waxed paper original packaging to look for stampings. :-?

Oh well, probably not important. If the barrels are actually Yugo surplus....and are being sold as "new".....then they are most likely spare, unmounted barrels (like I started with).

[johnnybar]

Yes. Essentially, all of the large ring, large thread actions are the same, EXCEPT for total action length. Thus, the barrels are interchangeable, notwithstanding the "safety breech" boss, on the Yugo barrels.

Even though this is true, you STILL need to check for proper head space with a gauge - don't just assume that it will be acceptable, if mounting the barrel as I described.

Gotch Ya',
I'm good to go on trimming the safety breech ring off the shank. Will take care of that in the lathe probably...filing scares me a little, even though it won't show. On a VZ24, I guess I'll have to trim the muzzle end to accept the VZ's slightly smaller sight base band. Any thing else going to suprise me on a VZ24? M48's should be apples to apples all the way.
PS: If used properly, do I really need anything more than a GO gauge and tape shiming to check headspace?

[johnnybar]

I bought a few of those recently from Wideners. They're definitely in great condition; in the white. If you have the means to properly chamber it, they're worth the low price.

Thought they are fully chambered and throated. Give us the details of your install issues.

[bcp477]

"PS: If used properly, do I really need anything more than a GO gauge and tape shiming to check headspace?"


NEED anything more ? No, technically you don't. The key is (as you said)......"if used properly". Considering the relatively modest cost, I purchased both a "GO" and a "NO-GO" myself. If you have NOT re-barreled a Mauser before, I'd advise getting a NO-GO, too....especially if you plan on doing more than one re-barrel. They are not expensive.

[zuke]

[QUOTE=bcp477;1954995They are not expensive.[/QUOTE]



Probably cheaper then surgery to put you back together after the "mishap".

[johnnybar]

Anybody have any ideas what "If you have the means to properly chamber it, " might be referring to with respect to these Yugo 8mm barrels? ...cast boolit throating? ...not a finished chamber/throat?

[David2011]

Let me make sure that I'm clear on this:
1. Turn the safety boss off for 98/22, M48, M48A and VZ24 actions. Then headspace on outer shoulder. Trim remaining barrel shank only if necessary for bolt clearance on 98's and 24's. Trim for boss crush on 48's and 48A's.
2. Optional to leave safety boss on for M48 and M48A. Then notch for extractor clearance.
3. If stamped, they should be fully chambered and throated for surplus 8mm. May need throating for long boolits.

You guys with hands and eyes on please give me guidance here. I'll be buying 10 to 15 barrels if they are what I think they are.

I've rebarrelled a few Yugos and helped students with quite a few more. Some were fitted with Adams and Bennet pre-threaded, short chambered barrels and others were fitted with Shilen contoured, unthreaded blanks. Granted, this is a very little bit different from installing a New Old Stock original barrel. The first semester students were started on the lathes by machining a mandrel to true the face of the action in a lathe. That taught them some basic lathe skills, truing the tailstock, measuring and basic threading. Some receivers required a surprising amount of material removal to square up and a few would not machine with HSS steel bits. We had to use carbide on the harder ones. Of course, truing the action would make the fitting of a replacement barrel require more machining.

Once the action face was square to the bolt race a depth micrometer was used to measure the distance from the face to the raised surface that the back end of the barrel rests on. After the barrel blank was threaded the shank length was cut to match the depth of the receiver as measure previously. The tolerance there was -0.000/+0.002; not hard to do since you just trim a little off of the back of the barrel or the shoulder. These barrels were partially chambered before screwing the barrel into the receiver. If you want to drill and tap for scope mounts it's easier to do that (IMO) before mating the barrel to the receiver. Once the barrel was mated to the action the final headspacing was completed. None of the rifles required an extractor cut. Agreed that the factory torque on Mausers is excessive. Paul Mauser's spec was that a 150 pound man support his weight on a 1 foot action wrench to torque the barrel. Benchrest shooters torque by hand with nothing more than a lightweight aluminum barrel vise and their barrels don't shoot loose.

That's all there is to fitting a barrel to a Mauser on the '98 pattern. As gunsmith fit barrels go, it's pretty easy.

If you're fitting a new barrel or cutting the final headspacing, you COULD get by with only a go gage. If you're fitting a fully chambered barrel you need a no-go as well. The go gage only tells you that the cartridge will fit. It doesn't tell you how much the cartridge will blow out if the chamber is too big. The no-go will alert you to excessive headspace.

I chambered and headspaced a belted magnum in .375 H&H once with only a go gage. As soon as the stripped bolt would close fully on the go gage I quit cutting. The bolt fits the cartridge very closely, putting just a hair of pressure on the case as it's closed. Since I don't expect to hunt things that will eat me, I'm comfortable with minimum headspacing.

David

[johnnybar]

David2011,
Thanks for the detailed report. Any experience with this recent batch of Yugo M48 barrels chamber depth?