Ruger 10-22 Barrel Beddinf w/ Free Floated Action

[deltaenterprizes]

I have a .920 barreled 10-22 that the action is free floated and the barrel is bedded.

The problem is that the barrel can move up and down, it pivots on the action screw.

Anybody do a 10-22 like this?

[uscra112]

If the barrel can move in the bedding, it's not bedded. How that could possibly work is beyond me, anyway. If the whole barrel is bedded, then it needs to be held into the bedding either at both ends or in the middle. Just having the OEM action screw lets the front end wave about like straw in the wind. Did the person who bedded it intend it to be a glue-in, maybe?

Only thing I ever did to mine (all-stock except for aftermarket trigger) was to add a business-card shim at the front of the action, which stops it rattling around in the mortice. It helped some. "Bumping" ammo in a die to make it fit that sloppy chamber Ruger cut helps some, too. Beyond that I will not go. 10/22's are a money sink, and I'm too poor to get into that.

[stubshaft]

That was always an issue with the 10/22. The problem is that it just has one screw holding the whole barrel receiver assy in place. What I have done in the past is to extend the bedding about one inch ahead of the barrel receiver joint and get a little more support to the barrel. I use modelers clay or beeswax to fill all of the gaps before pouring the bedding compound in.

[crabo]

I like to run a bolt through the action, receiver, and trigger group. I bed the first inch or so of the barrel and then depending on how it shoots, I usually shim the front of the barrel.

[shotman]

and after all the money, time . you still have an auto. A stevens crack shot will out shoot it

[crabo]

and after all the money, time . you still have an auto. A stevens crack shot will out shoot it

Not quite as good as a crackshot, but 10 shots at 50 yards.

[BT Sniper]

I like to run a bolt through the action, receiver, and trigger group. I bed the first inch or so of the barrel and then depending on how it shoots, I usually shim the front of the barrel.


That is pretty slick! Good thinking and good shooting.

BT

[Forrest r]

A lot of shooters use a small strip of rubber between the front edge of the stock/bbl. I like to use a bughole tuner, the 1st target I shot after installing/tuning the bughole tuner to get the most out of a low ($$$$) grade match ammo.

57525

That wasn't a hand/cherry picked target, those groups are easily repeatable.

I've done a lot of work to my 10/22, what a great experence. The trigger group was reworked along with the bolt/firing pin, the bbl was set back & the shank was recut to that receiver, the chamber was recut with a true "match" chamber reamer, the scope mount holes were enlarged/retapped with heavy duty screws along with a stronger scope mount being epoxyed in place. I added a aftermarket stock & bedded the action/1st inch of bbl & added a 8-32x50mm scope.
My 10-22 & what I actually built it for, silhouettes.

57526

The total cost? $450, that includes the aftermarket bbl, stock & the scope. Everything you see in the picture above.


I like to test/tune 22 rifles in the winter, the cold brings out the worst in them. I use a low grade match ammo to test them & will also bring a rifle (10-22) that is a known performer to use as a baseline. Baseline rifle='s a rifle that will consistently shoot the same sized groups day after day after day with the same ammo. I'll shoot a test target with the baseline rifle & when I get the same boring groups I know the ammo/shooter is ok. Then I shoot a target with the rifle being worked on with the same ammo, same shooter, same everything.
A typical target shot @25yds with the 10-22 being used as a baseline.

57527

The bughole tuners flat out work & allow the shooter to fine tune the rifle to the ammo.

[kweidner]

Forrest that looks like my old 10/22. problem was it got me into shooting br. Had to quit after my daughter was born. 2 sako finnfire and a ton of money later I had to quit. closest match to me was over 100 miles. One day I will do it again.

[montana_charlie]

I have a .920 barreled 10-22 that the action is free floated and the barrel is bedded.
The problem is that the barrel can move up and down, it pivots on the action screw.
Anybody do a 10-22 like this?
I can't imagine why anybody would even consider it.

It's not unusual to bed the action and the barrel in separate operations, but it's normal to bed the action first.
Sounds like your 'stockmaker' did the sequence backward ... then quit when he was half done.

CM

[Skipper]

Add a v-block:

http://www.hawktecharms.com/Rimfire-Technologies-10-22-V-Block-Barrel-p/rt-10vb.htm

[hiram]

I included to bed the read of the receiver. It's nothing more than a thin edge of epoxy wrapping around the back end.

The stock screw is behind the barrel so the barrel is not pulled straight down when the screw is tightened.

[mikeyd23]

A properly bedded barrel/stock should not allow the barrel to move like that...something doesn't sound right

[Shiloh]

You need to re-bed.
I kept the factory V block, but shimmed the barrel with layers of tape to get a slightly tensioned fit. There is also a brass pillar
at the takedown screw. GM Heavy taper barrel and Power Custom adjustable sear and target hammer gives 1/2 or less when I do my part. Wolf MT ammo.

Shiloh