My attempt at hollow pointing a Lee mold for a ML sabot bullet

[Elkins45]

The mold in question is (was?) a Lee 45 caliber 300 or maybe 310? grain flat point. I used it over the last couple of years to cast bullets for both practice and hunting out of a 50 caliber muzzle loading rifle using plastic sabots. I recently bought myself a 1936 South Bend metal lathe and thought this would be a good first project.

For some reason I can't remember I hit upon the idea of using a steel archery field point to make my HP pin. The eventual idea is to make a wooden handle from a 1" dowel by drilling it for a threaded insert for aluminum arrows. Once the mold is closed around the point it can be screwed up somewhat snug until the pour is made and then it can be unscrewed and removed with the bullet in place. Stupid idea? Maybe, but so far what I've done hasn't ruined the mold for a more conventional HP treatment if this idea doesn't pan out.

Here's the field point in the lathe.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/field.jpg

Here it is after being turned to shape. It needs a bit of polishing if I ever expect a bullet to slide off easily.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/point.jpg

Here's half the mold block with the alignment pin driven out of the way.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/block.jpg

Here's the mold being centered in the four jaw chuck by aligning the cavity mouth with a dead center in the tailstock.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/center.jpg

Here I have flipped it over and am drilling the HP pin hole through from the bottom. Yes, I am making an assumption that the cavities are cut perpendicular to the base of the block.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/drill.jpg

Here's what it looks like all back together---that's going to be a mammoth HP if this all works.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/final.jpg

I'll post more pix in this thread once I complete the handle for the HP pin and after I get around to casting a few.

Comments? Please keep in mind this is the first time I have ever used a metal lathe so I really have no idea what I'm doing!

[Nobade]

It could be just parallax in the picture, but that pin doesn't look like it's in the center of the hole. If it's not they won't fly very well.

The other comment is, you really want the hollow point insert to be removable before you open the mould blocks. Otherwise you have a mould in one hand, the hollow point insert in the other and need to grab the bullet with the other to get it to let go. That's really hard.

[runfiverun]

that is a huge h/p.
you'll probably end up making it much smaller.

[btroj]

I have used a Lyman 457122 HP cast of pure lead and sized down to .452 on a few deer. Absolutely devastating results. All 3 were broadside shots, all bullets exited. Talk about opening a wound channel! That bullet at 1700 fps is awesome. Only bad thing was the recoils in a 7 pound rifle.

[Elkins45]

It could be just parallax in the picture, but that pin doesn't look like it's in the center of the hole.

It's the angle of the photo. I went to quite a bit of trouble to make sure the hole was centered.


that is a huge h/p.
you'll probably end up making it much smaller.

I'm 99% sure you're right, but I wanted to start big under the assumption I can always take off more metal but I can't put it back on without starting from scratch.

[ButterNutZ]

Elkins looks good now lets see some bullets!

[Sonnypie]

Whew!
Looks like it will start expanding when it leaves the muzzle. :holysheep [smilie=l:

Good on Ya. I too look forward to the bullets and results.
Nice having a new lathe to play with.

Here's my little gum drops. http://s1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/HP%2045s/
I've since made a single block handle that carries both pins.
For my 45 ACP. Don't know if they would open up in meat. Waiting for a boogerler to test them. ;)

[Buckshot]

...............Elkins45, best to center the cavity up and drill through the cavity, as below:

http://www.fototime.com/4E82C710D2AEAC9/standard.jpg

You really shouldn't count on ANY block surface having any relationship with the cavity. If you're wanting to drill a hole on the centerline of the cavity ............... indicate the cavity true. The way you centered the cavity via using a dead center in the tailstock quill is a quick way to get the cavity close, BEFORE running a test indicator in it.

Loosening 2 jaws, swapping top for bottom, and depending on the block top and bottoms being parallel, and then tightening the 2 jaws again means you're doing a lot of assuming. Stacking assumptions can get a person into a tight spot.

http://www.fototime.com/2E52E1F832F7ACF/standard.jpg

Checking cavities on a surface plate against block faces and their other surfaces can be a real eye opener. If your mould here truly is centered up I'd immediately go buy a lottery ticket:D

...............Buckshot

[Elkins45]

Buckshot,

I realize it's probably a sloppy mess, but my hope is that it will be good enough to shoot deer at 100 yards. That's as far as I will ever shoot with my muzzle loader anyway. I will remember the method you used to indicate the center if I ever do this again. The reason I flipped it was so I could use a center starting drill thingie (don't know the proper name) to make sure I had a centered pilot hole so the drill would start straight and not begin wandering the minute it touched the block.

The good news is that I have another cavity to try if the first one is beyond all hope..and I also have the opportunity to drill the first cavity out for a full diameter pin if needed. I figure $20 is a cheap price to pay for a learning opportunity. And I have a spare block left over from a failed experiment with a drill press and a 7mm mold I tried to turn into a 30 cal paper patch bullet. I think it may soon get a new lease on life!

Thanks for the very helpful advice. One question: how do you keep the bit from wandering when you drill from the top, since you have to extend through the full depth of the cavity before ever touching metal?

[Nobade]

They make long center drills. Get one of those that will reach to the bottom of the cavity, and you should be set. NC spotting drills might work for this too.

[mooman76]

Thanks for the ideas. I tried it once but it didn't work out but the biggest piece of equipment I have is a drill press. The field point idea gives me some ideas.

[Josh Smith]

Thanks for the ideas. I tried it once but it didn't work out but the biggest piece of equipment I have is a drill press. The field point idea gives me some ideas.

04-09-2011


Hello,

I had a junk mould laying around, and a group buy for hollowpoint moulds got me thinking.

I drilled the mould, slapped it back together (an old Lee, so it involved the use of pins), and tried it out.

I'm having trouble with the pin making it cast cold, but it's just a concept mould. If I were going to actually use it, I'd build a new on on good blocks.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/WabashShootist/Guns/DSC00383.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/WabashShootist/Guns/DSC00383.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/WabashShootist/Guns/DSC00385.jpg

Only took about an hour start to finish, and it shows it. But what do you all think of the concept? Shallow cupped hollowpoint with think walls?

Later:

OK, looks like I have the concept right on the pin now; now it's just a matter of getting a decent handle on it and running the correct temps, I think:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/WabashShootist/Guns/angled.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/WabashShootist/Guns/top.jpg

Better, you think? I know I was casting way cold. Also need to get an aluminum handle on the pin; the wood will not hold for long. It's starting to give out already in fact.

Josh

I had it casting magical looking boolits after this, then sold the danged thing on eBay.

It wasn't worth the hassle.

Softer lead cast flat nose work better. I tested the two on coyotes then sold the hollowpoint mold.

If you still want to do it, holler at me if you would like pointers.

All I had at the time was a drill press, as well.

Regards,

Josh

[Rangefinder]

Mooman76>> I've got a sticky about doing this with your drill press right in this subforum--just in case you didn't know. ;) I'm liking the field point idea too--I could take that a couple different directions!

[Elkins45]

I'm liking the field point idea too--I could take that a couple different directions!

I would love to know what you're thinking. I've got a whole box full of field points and I haven't shot my bow in years.

[NSP64]

I would love to know what you're thinking. I've got a whole box full of field points and I haven't shot my bow in years.

How about a stepped piece of metal , that would attach to the handle hinge bolt ,then drop down to ly flat against the bottom of the mold. Drill and tap to hold field point in place.
This would be the same concept lee used to make hollow base molds.