Scope Mounting

[wtfooptimax200]

Even though this is the rifle forum, I thought it to be the most appropriate place for these questions....

I am mounting a scope on my newly purchased H&R Ultra Slug Hunter 20 gauge. I can either use the factory base and simply purchase rings or I can remove the factory base and purchase a DNZ Game Reaper one piece base/ring set. The DNZ would seem to be much more solid, does anyone have experience with this type of mounting? Is it necessary to ream the rings since they are one piece? Are there any foreseeable problems with aluminum rings/bases?

Thanks,
Branden

[dk17hmr]

I would use the factory mount and get a good set of rings. Bed the mount with loctite. You won't have a problem.

[MBTcustom]

My vote goes for the factory offering. Both would work just fine for 99% of anything you would do, but the factory setup seems stronger based on pictures. If the DNZ was made of steel, it would be no contest, but its made of aluminum and is not supported as well as the factory setup.
That's my two cents worth.

[wtfooptimax200]

Please explain the loctite bedding to me. Do you simply apply a bead or two of loctite under the the base and then tighten the screws? Does the loctite cause any damage to the bluing (not that it really matters since it is under the scope base, I just don't want anything rusting)

Thanks,
Branden

[C A Plater]

Please explain the loctite bedding to me. Do you simply apply a bead or two of loctite under the the base and then tighten the screws? Does the loctite cause any damage to the bluing (not that it really matters since it is under the scope base, I just don't want anything rusting)

Thanks,
Branden

Loctite is used to keep the screws from loosening under use. A drop in the screw holes or on the screws before securing the base will do the trick. It will not damage bluing.

[atr]

suggestion,,,,
there are several types or grades of Loctite. The grades relate to how tight the chemical action locks the screws. The tighter the lock (higher grade) the more difficult it is to remove the screw if you should ever want to. I suggest you use the moderate level, that way it will be easier to remove the screws later if necessary.
atr

[MBTcustom]

You use a layer of locktight to "glue" the base to the gun, as well as to lock the screws in place. Don't worry about using the high strength stuff. On an item that gets as much shock as a firearm does, you need to use something really good or you are just wasting your time. Locktight has a weekness, it breaks down if you heat it over 300 degrees. to get a screw loose, stick the tip of a soldering iron in the slot of the screw and hold until it gets hot/smokes a little. screw will come right out. For the base, if you want to take it off, use a propane torch and gently/carfully heat the base. Keep the flame off the gun at all times. Give the base a sharp rap with a brass hammer on an aluminum rod, contacting the side of the mount, in an upward direction (ie, under the 45 degree so that marks will be hidden) it should pop right off.

[richhodg66]

I was looking at those DNZ set ups the other day and kind of wondered about them. It would seem like a one piece arrangement would be best, but then you wouldn't have the versatility of using high, medium or low rings if you changed scopes to something with a different objective bell.

Weaver makes a base for everything and they are cheap. Just about everybody makes rings that clamp to Weaver style bases, and the standard Weaver ones that are made of steel are easy to work with and strong. That would be what I would go with on a gun like yours if I were going to scope it. You may want to look into a Ghjost Ring arrangement for iron sights like the XS sights. Very good, strong sights and for slug gun ranges ought to serve you well.

[waksupi]

I like using fingernail polish on screws. Holds well, breaks loose easily, and cheap.