PDA

View Full Version : Glass bedding .22 rifles ?



Jack Stanley
02-28-2012, 12:11 PM
Does anyone have a tutorial with lots of pictures for glass bedding Marlin bolt action .22 rifles ? The rifle I have in mind is clip fed not a tube magazine and I'd like to tighten up the accuracy potential just a little if possible .

I was able to tighen up a different rifle that was loose in the stock and it helped quite a bit . This Marlin isn't loose , it just needs a little help ....... somewhere .

Jack

starmac
02-29-2012, 06:26 PM
Any chance you are talking about a marlin model 25n. If so there is some good details on tightening them up on rimfire central, maybe the other marlins too.

Bret4207
02-29-2012, 09:10 PM
It's going to be the same as any other rifle- make sure you have enough room for the bedding to have a place to go, tape/release agent on everywhere you don't want it or that will stick it, get to work. It's not going to be much different than a magazine bolt gun.

phaessler
02-29-2012, 09:54 PM
I did 3 Marlin 25's , and after the first one I learned a valuable lesson. The action screw on my 25N has a reduced shank, I was able to get the action out but the screw is captured. Obvious now that I look back at it, but it wont happen again.

Pete

Jack Stanley
02-29-2012, 10:12 PM
Rifle in question is a model 880 held in place by a single screw just forward of the action . I'd like to learn if this rifle needs pressure points or any other things that make them work real well .

I've never done a "complete" bedding job , always just minor repair and snug things up work .

Thanks , Jack

phaessler
02-29-2012, 10:20 PM
880's are the fancy bolt action models, same screw design, be sure to dam it off or build up the diameter to prevent its capture in the stock, I was taught long ago to use window glazing, and modeling clay.

If you think it "might help", try shimming the action and/or barrel with businees card paper before you go thru the trouble of bedding it, same thing some work better with floated barrels, releive the channel a smidge and see if it help, you can always add a pressure pad on the forearm after you find if it works or not.

I agree to check with www.rimfirecentral.com , and www.marlinowners.com. There is alot of information, that may save you some aggrivation.

Pete

Bret4207
03-01-2012, 08:12 AM
People have added rear action screws to all sorts of rifles if you feel that would help.

Forrest r
03-01-2012, 11:08 AM
A rear action screw would definitely help, it’s pretty much a must have when you’re trying to wring every last bit of accuracy out of a rifle.

A good way to tell if bedding would help/aid in any accuracy gains with your rifle is to put a small piece of rubber up front in your bbl channel ˝” from the forend of your stock. The rubber can be from an old inner tube, wide rubber band, bottle openers, ECT. A piece of rubber 1/4” wide and 1/8” thick and long enough to cover the bottom half of your bbl that fits in the stock will work. Just put the piece of rubber in a snug the action screw and shoot some groups. Tighten the action screw a little more & shoot more groups. The rubber will act like a 2nd hold down point for the barreled action (2nd screw). You will find that if you keep tightening/testing groups with the action screw you will find the sweet spot of that rifle.

Test the rifle/torque without a piece of rubber & then with a piece of rubber. That will show you how much improvement, if any, you can expect from bedding that rifle.

303Guy
03-01-2012, 07:29 PM
Now that's been mentioned, I added a rear action screw to my Remington 512 and bedded it down under the chamber and at the rear. I don't know how much difference it might have made but it did seem the right thing to do. It is pretty accurate now but I also removed the end bit of worn barrel and re-crowned it - by hand. I simply squared it off using a file then de-burred with emery paper. It was the muzzle wear causing accuracy problems.

starmac
03-01-2012, 09:41 PM
An extra screw is one of the things explained how to do on the model 25, over on rimfire central.
It supposedly helps a lot.

Shiloh
03-02-2012, 12:09 AM
I'm doing a 10/22 now. Pillar bedding takedown screw area, floating an bedding the barrel, and bedding the receiver area. Different rifle, same technique and principle.

Shiloh

Jack Stanley
03-03-2012, 11:35 AM
I spent a little time at rimfirecentral.com last night looking for posts about bedding . Some of the posts were helpfull in showing where to place the compound , other posts suggested that the type of compound was important as well . My thanks to the fellas that suggested the web sight .

So far I've shot eight different types of ammo within a couple of those brands I tried different lot numbers as well . Now that I have ammunition it works "OK" with I'll look at the sights again , I've tried an old Bushnell .22 scope on it and a modern Leupold . The old .22 scope had a reticle that is really to big for precision work and the Leupold was meant for centerfire work so parallax may be part of the problem .

I found a Nikon .22 scope on close out for thirty dollars less than regular price so I ordered that to try . I suspect I'll need to order some Devcon steel putty from Brownells since all I have now is Accraglass .

Should I need to get into the bedding I think that trying shims of paper or rubber band at the forend tip may be the place to start . It looks like the rest of the rifle is solid in the stock and is not rocking at least . Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like doing the least amount of modification would be the best place to start .

Jack

phaessler
03-03-2012, 01:27 PM
Well exhausting all the options first might be easier than bedding as a last resort, I agree there. If you get an action bedded tight enough the screws only hold it together, and the recoil on a .22lr would have minmal effect on it.
Lots plays into it:
Trigger pull? smoothness?
Sights? sight mounts?
Muzzle crown? (saw it stated above)
Bedding? I have used Auto Body Filler for a quick and dirty experiment, with good results too
Headspace? once you find ammo that works, sort by rim thickness to see the effect.
Bump the bullets? search "Paco Kelly ACU-RZR" some science behind that it looks like.
I have been long accused of looking for the proverbial "Hair on the egg" and "Guilding the lily", or trying "To make a silk purse out of a sows ear", But I admit I have fun doing it.
Please keep us posted on your findings, might shedsome light on other projects.

Pete

Jack Stanley
03-03-2012, 10:43 PM
The trigger pull is smooth enough for me though I got to admit that it would be better without so much creep . Muzzle looks good but I wonder what it might do if it had a rebated target crown . I ordered Warne mounts to go with the new scope though the mounts on the rifle look to be secure .

Lots of stuff to try and I'll be reviewing this post a lot untill I get this rifle working better . Thanks to all of you guys that offer suggestions .

Jack

303Guy
03-04-2012, 06:10 AM
My old 512 had a funnel muzzle. Must have been cleaned from the muzzle. Funny that, I never clean it now. Anyway, as I've said before, that was the source of my rifles problems.

Jack Stanley
03-12-2012, 01:01 PM
OK , so I can call this one for the most part a D'oh !:oops:moment . A fella suggested that I clean the barrel REAL GOOD . Well I'd cleaned it I thought but apparently not enough to suit the bullets I was sending down the bore .

After a lot of brushing and leaving the barrel wet with Kroil , after patching with JB and hoppes . Groups are about a half inch better with the same ammo as before . I'll keep the bore wet with Hoppes when storing overnight between range sessions for a while . Perhaps JB a couple of more times might still help , I think this bore is one you could have called "neglected" .

This isn't to say the trigger doesn't need a little help , I think it does . The bedding might even be bettered by shims and epoxy too , I'll just have to see how this goes . At least now I can be pretty happy with the rifle even if it doesn't get a lot better .

Jack

phaessler
03-12-2012, 07:36 PM
"A clean gun is a happy gun" sticks in my head from a shooting friend of mine from many years ago. I think and am guilty of it too, that .22lr's go "unloved" in the cleaning department, and sometimes neglected.
Proof positive right there that cleanliness does matter. Good findings, and picked up some accuracy on the cheap.

Pete

Jack Stanley
03-14-2012, 09:45 PM
I was fooling with shims on the range the other day . Cut a piece of cardboard from the end flap of a old cartridge box and moved it around and shot lots of groups . I think I found a spot where it likes to have the shim at , so in an effort to keep the metal in that spot I mixed a little accraglass and went after it .

What I've done so far is to stabilize behind the hold down screw back to the front part of the action itself . All this with the shim in the spot the rifle liked and the screw snugged down the same . Things should be hard enough to shoot tomorrow and if it doesn't rain I'll try and get out with it .

I'll need to see if I'm going to have to glue the shim down of if I can move it about some and glass where it is at right now .

Jack

izzyjoe
03-14-2012, 10:04 PM
some .22 are sensitive to bedding, some not. i think that you'll get you'r most improvement from the trigger. marlin rimfires have horrible triggers, but they can be made better. i've heard that micro groove rimfire barrel ain't that great, they may not be target rifles but they work for me!

ilcop22
03-14-2012, 10:48 PM
I did it on my Ruger 10/22. Easy to do, just make sure to use enough tape and release agent.

Jack Stanley
03-15-2012, 10:25 PM
When I took it out I had the shim placed about three inches ahead of the hold down screw . The shim is about three eights of an inch wide and an inch long so it will just lay on the bottom of the barrel channel .

Since Winchester bulk hollow points have shot the best I used that and got a VERY acceptable group . From there I took the rifle back inside and took it apart again . Where the shim was I drew a line with a pencil so I could relocate it easy . I cleaned the area with accra-glass solvent and then used a small chisel to rough out a very small area about the size of the shim for the pad between the shim and the hold down .

The barrel was all waxed up and ready for placement so I mixed up four drops of resin and one drop of hardener . After mixing it well a little Floc was added so it wouldn't run to bad and it got placed in the area . The shim got replaced to where I penciled the line and the barrel inserted and snugged down . After leaving it set untill it was hard I took it apart again and the pad needed a couple drops more .

As of now , it's waiting for tomorrow and I'll see how it does . Trigger is probably next but I think I'll use like it is for a little bit .

Jack