Bullet STUCK?

[randyrat]

I shot some old military pulled jacketed bullets. Loaded them with 10 grs of Unique. 30-06- 03A3 I have no idea how it happened but I stuck a bullet about an inch from the breach or chamber areas...I have been pounding on this with a 1/4" brass rod for 2 days and I can't budge it. Any Ideas?

I mushroomed the end of the rod once and have a small hole on the other end where the tip of the bullet is touching the rod. I haven't moved the bullet at all.
Can I push it back toward the chamber or do I need to push it towards the muzzle. do I need a .30 rod so it is more of a solid hit?

[Jim]

I would start by getting some penetrating oil in the bore from the muzzle and let it trickle down and 'soak' for a few hours. I would then try backing the bullet out through the chamber end as it is closest to that end.

[dragonrider]

Absolutely toward the chamber, dump some kroil in the barrel and warm the barrel with a hair dryer about where the boolit is. Get a rod as close to bore diameter as you can get and give it good smack, if it moves at all you will get it the rest of the way. A good three pound hammer always works for me. Nice wide face so you don't miss the rod and hit your other hand, or worse, the barrel.

PS, DO NOT USE A WOODEN DOWEL. just sayin.

[jmsj]

Randy,
A friend of mine did exactly the same thing. Hammering on the bullet actually made it swell tighter into the bore. He asked me to build him a long drill bit to get bullets out of barrels.
This was for a 30/06 and he went in from the muzzle. I took a 24" long piece of 1018 cold roll and attached a 1/4" or 3/16" drill bit to it ( I don't remember which). To attach the drill bit, I turned the shank of the drill bit down to 1/8" and drilled an 1/8" hole into the end of 1/4" X 24" rod. I slipped the two together and soldered them together. I put a few shallow grooves into the long rod and slipped on o-rings that were small enough to fit into the bore. We greased up the o-rings to stop the rod from scratching the barrel while drilling.
He told me that after he drilled through the bullet, it was easy for him to knock the bullet out.
I forgot to mention that I used a lathe to make this tool.
Good luck, jmsj

[gnoahhh]

I fear that if you have been beating on it for two days you have well and truly expanded the bullet into such a tight fit that soaking in penetrating oil likely won't help. Before beating on it anymore, I would take it to a gunsmith who can drill it out.

[stubshaft]

I fear that if you have been beating on it for two days you have well and truly expanded the bullet into such a tight fit that soaking in penetrating oil likely won't help. Before beating on it anymore, I would take it to a gunsmith who can drill it out.

You can try to use a long 1/8" bit to drill through the boolit and help relieve the grip it has on the barrel then go to a close fitting brass or rod to try and drive it out.

[MtGun44]

Steel rod 1/4" diam, put a .25 ACP case on the contact end as a boot, wrap a few wraps of
elec tape in 3 - 4 places. whack with a big hammer.

Bill

[randyrat]

So far I soaked it since yesterday with Marvel M...oil I think I will try a steal wrapped rod with a brass cap of some sort
. I think it is a hard armor piercing bullet, so drilling from the front is out. ....Last resort I will go to a gunsmith..

[andremajic]

I have a tip for you that might work.

Get some of those large 'zirc fittings" that are used for greasing equipment.

Drill and tap the muzzle end to accept the zirc fitting. Clean and use red loctite when screwing it in.

Hook up a grease gun to the zirc fitting and start pumping! The hyrdraulic pressure will shove that bullet right out, and the grease won't damage your bore.

Cut off the zirc fitting and recrown the muzzle when you're done.

P.S. Make sure it's aimed into a cardboard box to catch the grease/bullet when it "pops" out.

Hydraulic pressure is awesome!

Andy.

[405]

So far I soaked it since yesterday with Marvel M...oil I think I will try a steal wrapped rod with a brass cap of some sort
. I think it is a hard armor piercing bullet, so drilling from the front is out. ....Last resort I will go to a gunsmith..

Whew! Yah, at this point I'd try the steel rod suggestion.

The next step may depend on the type of bullet it is. You could cut one of the unfired ones in half to see what the internals were. A Dremel or similar rotary tool with a cutoff wheel would work. It would be good for the gunsmith to know also in case it comes to that. It may be a simple FMJ or could even have a hardened steel core :(

[DCM]

Steel rod 1/4" diam, put a .25 ACP case on the contact end as a boot, wrap a few wraps of
elec tape in 3 - 4 places. whack with a big hammer.

Bill

+ another one.

[randyrat]

Anything short of tapping the end of barrel.. but that would work.

[Mk42gunner]

Randy,

One of my Dad's favorite sayings was: "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer." This is one time a bigger hammer is the correct tool.

When I ran the armory at NAS Fallon, on of the visiting helo squadrons had a bullet (M-80 ball) get stuck a couple of inches into the bore on an M-60D. After they spent a while trying to drive it out with a claw hammer, they brought it to us to try.

I went out to my truck and got a two pound hammer and used a GI .30 cal cleaning rod. About two good hits and it started moving.

The key things were the breech end of the barrel was resting on the concrete floor, and a large hammer. I don't know how your 03-A3 action would take the force, I would really hate to tweak an action trying to drive a bullet out of the bore.

Robert

[JIMinPHX]

I got a very hard cruise missile stuck in a bore a few years ago. Pounding away with a steel rod did not help at all. Drilling a hole through the center & pouring oil down the barrel finally did the trick. I used motor oil. I think that it has better lubricating properties than penetrating oil does. It doesn't help you get things started as well because it doesn't penetrate, but once you do get started, I think that it helps you more as you go the rest of the way down the bore.

[shotman]

if its that close to the breech take a propane torch and melt the base of the bullet and guts will drip out Lead melts at 500 and barrel at 2000. If it has a copper cap drill it to open the base

[Tokarev]

Use steel rod and sledgehammer. Brass rod won't do any good.
Rest chamber end on a heavy anvil or similar object.
Don't be afraid to whack.

[John Taylor]

Lots of good thoughts going on here. Having had more than a few guns come in with stuck bullets I have found that drilling a hole in the center helps a lot. A steel rod close to bore diameter helps also. If there are more than one bullet in the bore most likely there will be a bulge in the barrel. If the barrel has a bulge it will be next to impossible to get the bullet out without drilling the center out. There are a few guns that will still shoot good enough for the owner with a bulge in the barrel, as with the little camp 9MM that came in a while back with 7 bullets in the bore. It still went bang and that's all the customer wanted.

[nanuk]

if the barrel is not being removed from the receiver, what is the best way to support it?

wrap the heck out of it, and let inertia be your friend? as long as it has a soft landing spot, and you have a way to protect the muzzle when you line 'er up, you should be able to get a good whack on it....

Can you just have a "Friend" hold it in gloved hands against a wooden frame so it is steady, and you swing the BFH-2000g???

how much risk is there of damaging the receiver?

[Tokarev]

if the barrel is not being removed from the receiver, what is the best way to support it?

The military service manuals that I've read recommended building a custom anvil.

[JIMinPHX]

if its that close to the breech take a propane torch and melt the base of the bullet and guts will drip out Lead melts at 500 and barrel at 2000. If it has a copper cap drill it to open the base

The temper of steel is affected WAY below 2000f.

[Molly]

An old trick, and one that gave generally good results in this situation is recorded in Hatcher's Notebook. He removed stuck bullets with ease and dispatch by removing the bullet from a round of military ball ammo and carefull inserting the charged case into the chamber. Aim it at the hillside and pull the trigger.

Caution: This wasn't adopted as a standard practice n the army because it could result in a bulged barrel if the obstruction was in the forward half of the barrel, or near the muzzle. But it worked fine for stuck bullets near the breech. Worked fine for me too on a few occasions, back when I was learning to reload.

[randyrat]

I had thought of that, being it is just past the chamber and is just into the rifling. I think I may try that. Unless someone talks me out of it in the next few days. I'm tired of pounding & pounding& pounding. BUT what charge should I use?

[MtGun44]

Put the back of the dismounted receiver on a lead ingot on a concrete floor. MUST use a close fitting
steel rod.

Bill

[John Taylor]

An old trick, and one that gave generally good results in this situation is recorded in Hatcher's Notebook. He removed stuck bullets with ease and dispatch by removing the bullet froma rond of military ball ammo and carefull inserting the charged case into the chamber. Aim it at the hillside and pull the trigger.

Caution: This wasn't adopted as a standard practice n the army because it could result in a bulged barrel if the obstruction was in the forward half of the barrel, or near the muzzle. But it worked fine for stuck bullets near the breech. Worked fine for me too on a few occasions, back when I was learning to reload.

An old smith I worked for tried this with BP in the case. Pulled the trigger and nothing happened. When he tried to open the bolt it would not move so he tapped on the bolt handle to get it open and when it did open it did it with authority, slamming into the bolt stop and throwing the brass clear across the shop. Bullet was still stuck. I don't think it is a good idea to try and shoot the bullet out, especially after it has been hammered on to swell it up.

[Bullet Caster]

I would agree with John Taylor. I would try a gunsmith before I'd try to shoot the stuck boolit out of the bbl. I've heard of bad things happening to rifles when trying to shoot out a stuck boolit. Can you get to the boolit if the bolt was removed? Then you could go at it with a drill bit from the breech end. Just my thoughts. And I hope that never happens to me! lol. BC

[gnoahhh]

+1 on John Taylors warning. If you have been pounding the **** out of it, you have done nothing more than make it tighter. Drilling is your only option now.

[Houndog]

Since you have in all probability ruined the barrel, pour some Sweets or Barnes bore cleaner in the barrel and let it soak. That's two of the most agressive copper disolving compounds that are easily obtainable I know of. If that don't disolve the copper jacket enough to get it moving, drilling out the center of the bullet is about the only option left. I'd remove the barrel from the action and drill from the breach end in a lathe to keep everything straight.

[flounderman]

You could pull the barrel and get closer to your work. If you don't have access to a barrel vise it would be hard to do. I have heard of using dry ice. if you are drilling from the back, drill a hole in an empty case and use the case to center the bit. could bush the neck of the case to drill size and the bit should stay in the middle of the bullet. if it was a black tip, it was an ap and it has a steel center.

[beagle]

You guys laugh at this method but EOD uses a very similar procedure to remove high explosive 40mm grenades from the barrels of the old M129 grenade launcher and still save the barrels. These rounds are prone to getting stuck in the barrel and someone came up with a hydraulic device to seal and set the barrel and apply pressure gradually to pop them out. I've never seen the device but it must only take a few minutes as we got them back pretty quick.

Just for the tally book, these grenades are armed by acceleration and centrifical force and are one piece of munitions that EOB blows in place every time./beagle


I have a tip for you that might work.

Get some of those large 'zirc fittings" that are used for greasing equipment.

Drill and tap the muzzle end to accept the zirc fitting. Clean and use red loctite when screwing it in.

Hook up a grease gun to the zirc fitting and start pumping! The hyrdraulic pressure will shove that bullet right out, and the grease won't damage your bore.

Cut off the zirc fitting and recrown the muzzle when you're done.

P.S. Make sure it's aimed into a cardboard box to catch the grease/bullet when it "pops" out.

Hydraulic pressure is awesome!

Andy.

[randyrat]

Since you have in all probability ruined the barrel, pour some Sweets or Barnes bore cleaner in the barrel and let it soak. That's two of the most agressive copper disolving compounds that are easily obtainable I know of. If that don't disolve the copper jacket enough to get it moving, drilling out the center of the bullet is about the only option left. I'd remove the barrel from the action and drill from the breach end in a lathe to keep everything straight.

Naw I haven't ruined the barrel yet. I haven't touched it with anything but Brass so far.I think MtGun44 is right, I need a tighter fitting rod. the Brass rod I tried is .25 and the barrel is .308 Too much give and spring.
I'll have to drill the back a bit and then tap with a coated steal rod that fits better.

I got this far in life and plan to continue, Soooo I am not going to shoot this stuck bullet out. Bad pictures of explosions/ ER/ bandages keep popping up in my mind.

[shotman]

the drill idea is best but the heat if the bullet is close in the heavy part of chamber would hurt if you dint stay in there long.
One other thing??? You said in first post that they were "pulled" did you mic them?? they could be from a 762.39 or the like that was .312

[swheeler]

RR; I would try some light weigh oil over the stuck bullet, say an inch or so up the barrel, then a close fitting brass or steel rod and whack it real good, let the hydralic force move the bullet.

[MT Gianni]

I slug bbls with a cold rolled steel rod wrapped with electrical tape every 4". I also use a 4 lb hammer and an inverted gas check over the end. If it will not move with that set up a gunsmith sounds like the cheapest option that you have.

[Longwood]

I slug bbls with a cold rolled steel rod wrapped with electrical tape every 4". I also use a 4 lb hammer and an inverted gas check over the end. If it will not move with that set up a gunsmith sounds like the cheapest option that you have.

I have removed a few bullets the way you do it.
The large diameter rod and a big heavy hammer is the secret.
I have someone hold the gun so I don't risk cracking the stock.
If he tapped on it with something like a small ball peen or claw hammer or if he peened it well enough with the wimpy brass rod he may have to drill it or melt the lead out of the bullet.

[thtwit]

Take the gun to a gunsmith and have him PROPERLY remove the obstruction. before you ruin your collector gun and maybe injur or kill yourself and others too.
Don't even think about setting off a charge behind that bullet after you have swaged it into the lands and grooves solidly!
taketheguntoagunsmith

[Bullet Caster]

thtwit,
I like that subliminal message. BC

[MtGun44]

Steel rod with a .25 ACP case as a shoe, with tape.

Steel is twice as stiff as brass, for the same dimension it will put MUCH more shock on the
bullet, the brass is acting like a spring.

Bill

[StratsMan]

RandyRat...

Still have that bullet stuck in the bore??? In post #8 you said you think it's an AP bullet. Does it have the telltale black tip??? If so, you're not gonna get it drilled out... And it isn't swaging tighter into the rifling, either... At the same time, that core isn't very forgiving and is causing the bullet to be lodged tighter against the barrel than it's lead core cousin...

I've seen the cannon guys make a breech block for Vulcan barrels that thread right on to the barrel. They load the barrel from the breech just like a cannon, using modern projectiles (ie: 20mm blue practice rounds), then put in their charge. The threaded breech block has the ignition system built in; either a hole for fuse or a nipple and hammer for a percussion cap. They load and ignite just like any other cannon... Could you possibly remove the barrel, build a breech block, and drive it out with 30,000 psi of pressure??? It would be pricey, but...

Sounds like you're getting close to the point of just re-barreling as the most cost-effective solution...

[andremajic]

Zirc fittings are pretty cheap on ebay. Here's a 12mm wide one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-M12-Male-Thread-Hydraulic-Straight-Grease-Nipple-Fitting-/260950603311?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cc1de362f

You will probably need a metric tap though.

I just did this on a 10" piece of barrel which was hopelessly blocked. Took about 10 pumps of the grease gun and it shoved right out.

I can post pics if you're the visual sort.

[randyrat]

I have a tip for you that might work.

Get some of those large 'zirc fittings" that are used for greasing equipment.

Drill and tap the muzzle end to accept the zirc fitting. Clean and use red loctite when screwing it in.

Hook up a grease gun to the zirc fitting and start pumping! The hyrdraulic pressure will shove that bullet right out, and the grease won't damage your bore.

Cut off the zirc fitting and recrown the muzzle when you're done.

P.S. Make sure it's aimed into a cardboard box to catch the grease/bullet when it "pops" out.

Hydraulic pressure is awesome!

Andy.
Sounds like this is my next project.
I have pounded that bullet, tried to drill ( AP bullets are very hard) Never, never, try to push/pound an AP bullet from the front, all you do is jam it worse it seems. I have stopped short of blowing this gun up by charging an empty round and setting it off.
I will soak it in Kroil for a few days, fit a zerc and start pumping.

[Junior1942]

Randy, before you drill & tap your muzzle for a zerc fitting try one more thing. AFTER a day or two of soaking in Kroil, find a brass or steel rod CLOSE to bore diameter. Pour enough 30W motor oil in the barrel to fill it for 8" or 10" above the stuck bullet. Ease the rod into the barrel until you can tell it has entered the motor oil, i.e., it is in the oil but is still several inches above the bullet. Stop. Hold the rod in position. Wrap a rag around the rod/muzzle to catch ejected motor oil. WHACK the end of the rod with a hammer. I bet a dollar to a donut you'll need no more than three WHACKS.

[Pavogrande]

AP bullet? -- As a last resort, I would go with jmsj's method of an extension drill, but substitute a length of drill rod close to bore diameter and use a shortened carbide concrete drill about 3/16 diameter silver soldered into the drill rod. Or a similar diameter carbide end mill.

[Tokarev]

Is the bullet to far in to be EDMed out?
I know there are portable EDM machines out there, some use them to remove broken exhaust manifold studs w/o pulling the heads from the engines.
If someone could EDM steel core out of the jacket...

[Casting Timmy]

I would also recommend setting your rod on top of the bullet and marking it so you can mark where the tip of the bullet is on the outside of the barrel. Then do the same thing from the back end.....you might want to make sure you've just got one in there.

[M-Tecs]

Randy, before you drill & tap your muzzle for a zerc fitting try one more thing. AFTER a day or two of soaking in Kroil, find a brass or steel rod CLOSE to bore diameter. Pour enough 30W motor oil in the barrel to fill it for 8" or 10" above the stuck bullet. Ease the rod into the barrel until you can tell it has entered the motor oil, i.e., it is in the oil but is still several inches above the bullet. Stop. Hold the rod in position. Wrap a rag around the rod/muzzle to catch ejected motor oil. WHACK the end of the rod with a hammer. I bet a dollar to a donut you'll need no more than three WHACKS.

I have used this method. It works very well. I used a loosely fixed round ball for a better seal. With a good seal water or light oil will work. With a looser seal the heavier the oil the better. In your case just melt some wax and pour it in. If you can't get it and you get to Mpls I can give you a hand.:drinks:

[Lonegun1894]

I have had this happen more times than I care to admit, but with cast which probably makes it easier. The few times the rod down the oiled barrel didn't seem to be working well, I just used Hatcher's solution. The only thing I did different is I DO NOT use a full powder load. I use light charges of Unique or any other fast burning powder with toilet paper to hold it against the primer and provide a slightly better burn. We're talking it took 4.0 grs of Unique to move a 461gr bullet out of a 32" 45-70, so go light on this. As to the gunsmith that was mentioned earlier that bulged the barrel with black powder, I apologize but I had to laugh. Anyone who knows anything about black powder knows that airspace between the powder and bullet acts as a bore obstruction and is a DANGER, and would have thought a gunsmith would have known better. For some reason, smokeless powder does not act like this, especially in small amounts like would be needed to remove this bullet, so it is safer for both you and the gun. If you use this method though, be careful because even though it is moving slow coming out that muzzle, it is still fast enough to injure/kill someone or damage something. For a .30-06 size case, I would start with 3grs Unique and go up in half grain increments until the bullet moves, checking each time with a cleaning rod for progress. If the load isn't enough to seal the case to the chamber, you may hear a hissing coming form the closed chamber which is the pressure bleeding off and shouldn't take more than 2-3 seconds. If it does this, at least in my expreience, it isnt a problem, just wait before opening the action and load another slightly heavier blank (half a grain charge more each time until the barrel is clear). Just to be clear, I would not do this with a full charge as I can see how barrels get damaged with the full loads, but the light load only needs enough pressure to expand the case to seal the bore so it puts the pressure behind the bullet and pushes it out. Did I mention a SAFE BACKSTOP? Cause it will (backstop) have a bit of pop (backstop) to it when it comes out (backstop).

[Molly]

I have had this happen more times than I care to admit, but with cast which probably makes it easier. The few times the rod down the oiled barrel didn't seem to be working well, I just used Hatcher's solution. The only thing I did different is I DO NOT use a full powder load. ...

Hi Lonegun,

Yes, me too. I once got hold a batch of bad 7.65x54R ammo, lots of hang fires and similar poor performance ... including about one shot in five giving a bullet stuck in the bore, usually just past the throat. I just pulled the bullet out of the next round, dumped about half the powder out on the ground and chambered it. If it went bang, it invariably removed the stuck bullet instantly, and examination of fired cases indicated vey low pressures as you would expect.

Well, now that I've written that, I DO recall one time when it didn't eject the bullet. The rifle just went 'click', and I thought it was another misfire. But when I lifted the bolt, it snapped back with considerable enthusiasm and a mild 'pop' But the next round (with a little more powder) did the job just fine.

I've done my share of pounding stuck bullets out, but that was before I read Hatcher. Yeah, you might bulge a barrel with Hatcher's technique, though I never did. But I will guarantee that you can bulge a barrel by upsetting the bullet in the bore with a rod and mallet. I know THAT for fact.

[Longwood]

I saw a Python barrel in a gun store case one time that had been machined in half to show that the bullet sicking out of the end of the barrel, was actually a barrel full of lead.
The shooter did not notice he had a problem until the cylinder would not turn.

[Lonegun1894]

Hi Lonegun,

Yes, me too. I once got hold a batch of bad 7.65x54R ammo, lots of hang fires and similar poor performance ... including about one shot in five giving a bullet stuck in the bore, usually just past the throat.

Molly, I wish I could blame the ammo manufacturers, but I can't. In my case, it is due to working up (down?) very light loads for subsonic use in various rifles. In fact, I got one stuck in a new to me Enfield .303 after typing yesterdays post. [smilie=l: 5.0 grs of Unique removed it very well, and the neighbor grilling outside a couple houses down didn't even look up to indicate he had heard anything. I just put the rifle back inside and cleaned the confetti out of it since I use a square of toilet paper to keep the powder against the primer since I fire these straight down into the ground next to the back porch to make sure I never have a ricochet or any other mishap.

[scb]

This depicts a rig I made a few years ago to get a bullet out of a barrel using a grease gun. It worked very well, but it was a 17 cal. bullet. 2 pcs of 2.5" dia. .75" thick aluminum. 3 pcs of threaded rod. 6 nuts. 1 grease fitting. And I DIDN"T have to thread the muzzle. On the muzzle end cap I counter-bored it to be a tight fit to the muzzle of the barrel. I also put an O-ring in the counter-bore.
http://i487.photobucket.com/albums/rr236/scb2008/remover1.jpg


http://i487.photobucket.com/albums/rr236/scb2008/remover2.jpg

[725]

Can you remove the barrel from the action? If so, the threaded barrel could be capped over the threads with a female threaded cap with a zirc threaded in. Apply the grease and hopefully squirt out the bullet. Unscrew everything and put it back together. No cut barrel. No cut and recrown job.

[Molly]

Molly, I wish I could blame the ammo manufacturers, but I can't. In my case, it is due to working up (down?) very light loads for subsonic use in various rifles. In fact, I got one stuck in a new to me Enfield .303 after typing yesterdays post. [smilie=l: 5.0 grs of Unique removed it very well, and the neighbor grilling outside a couple houses down didn't even look up to indicate he had heard anything. I just put the rifle back inside and cleaned the confetti out of it since I use a square of toilet paper to keep the powder against the primer since I fire these straight down into the ground next to the back porch to make sure I never have a ricochet or any other mishap.

I hear ya lonegun. I used to have a pretty nice little basement range, but that was then and this is now. Now I live in a small house without a basement. And I'm 15 or 20 minutes from a range, depending on the traffic. When working up a new load (I like to play with squibs too), it's a real pain to have to drive to the range and fire a single shot so I can make reasonable estimates of the safety / pressure (in handgun loads) ect. But I came up with a great solution.

There used to be a vent pipe in my crawl space for a floor furnace that is long gone. I put a piece of plywood on a hinge to cover it, and when I want to pop a round off without alarming the neighbors or alerting the police, I just move the plywood and fire into my crawlspace. Works great. As you say, the ground is an excellent bullet stopper, and I can add that a house is a pretty good silencer too. (VBG)

[nanuk]

Take the gun to a gunsmith and have him PROPERLY remove the obstruction....


and can you tell us what that might be?

We have 'smiths on this site, and there seems to be a differing of opinion.

Just wondering what yours is?

[nanuk]

... As to the gunsmith that was mentioned earlier that bulged the barrel with black powder, I apologize but I had to laugh. Anyone who knows anything about black powder knows that airspace between the powder and bullet acts as a bore obstruction and is a DANGER, ....

so here is a thought....

point the barrel DOWN, and fill 'er up with ffg and take a Primed cartridge, cut off just after the web, and jam it down on to the powder so it is Tight....

now, you have a BP round right full, no airspace

point in safe direction and pull the trigger....

[Lonegun1894]

Nanuk,
That seems like it should be safe in regards to no airspace, although I would love to know the pressures involved. I really dont think that BP would develop pressures that would be unsafe in a modern bolt-action, but the pressure would certainly be sufficient to clear the barrel. Wonder if anyone has a program that might bive us an idea of the pressures involved in that experiment. I guess it would have to be done and powder placed inside and then dumped for measuring.

[Chicken Thief]

so here is a thought....

point the barrel DOWN, and fill 'er up with ffg and take a Primed cartridge, cut off just after the web, and jam it down on to the powder so it is Tight....

now, you have a BP round right full, no airspace

point in safe direction and pull the trigger....

Nah!
Fill the case with BP and cap it with wax. drip a candle into the chamber until it is full to the chamber.
Chamber the round and be gone with it.
In theory BP can achieve a max. pressure of @ 4373bar~63425psi, but te bullet will pop put way before that.

[Hang Fire]

Chuck the barrel up in a lathe and drill it out using undersized bit.

[Hang Fire]

point the barrel DOWN, and fill 'er up with ffg and take a Primed cartridge, cut off just after the web, and jam it down on to the powder so it is Tight....


Methinks a case cut that short is going to result in one hell a lot of gas leakage.

[Junior1942]

Hey, Randyrat! Well??????

[bob208]

my gunsmithing book says and this method does work. i have used it. drill the jacketed bullet from the rear. run a lag screw into the bullet with an extenstion. hook it to a slide hammer and bump it out. you already did the first no by trying to pound it out . a j bullet only gets tighter that way.

[Bill*]

I thought this was A/P or steel insert bullet no?

[Junior1942]

Randyrat, oh, Randyrat. Whereforth art thou, Randyrat!