Primers Without a Charge Back Out and Tie Up My Revolver?

[Silver Jack Hammer]

I’m loading primers only in .38 brass without powder or boolits for my son who is Jr. High age so he can practice dry firing in the basement with just a little bit more snap. The revolvers bind up from the fired primers backing out. Can’t hardly cock the hammers after one or two shots.

Why would the primers back out without a charge / load? When these revolvers are fired with cartridges loaded with gunpowder and lead the primers don’t back out and the revolvers don’t bind up and seize. This puzzles me. The only thing I can figure is the pressure from a charged load pushes the cartridge back against the recoil shield which keeps the primer pushed in the case.

The revolvers are a pair of 3 screw Rugers in .357. Brass is mixed, some Remington, some Winchester none with cannular grooves. Primers are WSP blue box small pistol for standard loads.

Anybody with any bright ideas?

[jh45gun]

Don't know the reason why but it does so it is not your gun. A friend shot two primed 38 specials out of his gun because I wanted the brass to plug one hole on a guitar where a volume control was that some one put in a bad place on a customized guitar. I figured the head stamp would look good on the guitar and all my brass was loaded so I had a friend shoot off two of his primed brass and they both backed out like you said. I had him do two in case I cut one off and it did not cut right but I got it right the first time.

[Ronbo256]

The primers in my glubits loads for .45 ACP back out also, the cure is to drill out the flash hole and mark the brass so it doesn't get used for live rounds. The same fix will keep your wheelgun from tying up.

[Hang Fire]

That is normal for a lot of revolvers when just popping primers. They also back out to whatever rim head space is with loaded rounds. But are reseated when pressure builds and the bullet starts foward with the brass going back against the recoil shield. So all looks fine when fired brass is examined.

[stubshaft]

Just mark the cases and drill the flash holes out.

[dubber123]

I'm not usually the one to worry, ( I cast in the basement), but I believe most primers still use Lead Styphnate, and are thought to be the biggest cause of lead ingestion at indoor ranges...if thats not a concern, the advice to drill the flash holes is correct.

[subsonic]

Primers are nasty and are the component most likely to generate lead fumes. They will also filthy up your gun and a primer only is more likely to cause corrosion than a loaded round for some reason. Ask me how I know...

I would not snap just primers in the basement for all the reasons mentioned.

I would at least buy some of those speer rubber bullets so he can get some feedback for the trouble.

[44man]

It happens with rubber boolits too and I used to shoot them a lot until I decided everything was too dirty and I was going through primers like crazy. I have dedicated, drilled brass.
It WAS fun! :holysheep

[Wayne Smith]

Drill out the flash holes with a 1/16" inch bit and you won't have problems. Use Federal primers and there will not be a lead problem. They are more sensitive, though.

[Silver Jack Hammer]

Great info guys, thanks a heap.

Weather's breaking here, hope to his the range to today with my son.

[MtGun44]

Like they said, ALL primers back out when fired, and then the case sets back and reseats
the primer. With no charge the second half doesn't happen, so you need to open up
the flashhole to keep them from setting back. Don't used the modified cases for
normal loads, tho.

Bill

[gefiltephish]

Xring rubber bullets recommends 7/64 for small primers. I eventually worked up 9/64 to keep primers from backing out. I filed a small notch in the rims to differentiate from non drilled.

[michiganvet]

With the Speer plastic cases and bullets I never had that happen. After 47 yrs of handloading you guys have come up with something I have not heard of or experienced.

[jwp475]

That is normal for a lot of revolvers when just popping primers. They also back out to whatever rim head space is with loaded rounds. But are reseated when pressure builds and the bullet starts foward with the brass going back against the recoil shield. So all looks fine when fired brass is examined.



The primers backout because there is no back thrust in the case to push the case against the rear of the frame to prevent the primer from backing out do to it's back thrust. Powder ignighting in the case provides the back thrust neded

[jwp475]

Xring rubber bullets recommends 7/64 for small primers. I eventually worked up 9/64 to keep primers from backing out. I filed a small notch in the rims to differentiate from non drilled.

Opening the flash holes lowers the back thrust of the primer

[bbq223]

Good to know!

[Wayne Smith]

The primers backout because there is no back thrust in the case to push the case against the rear of the frame to prevent the primer from backing out do to it's back thrust. Powder ignighting in the case provides the back thrust neded

Not quite. The primers do back out of the case, all primers do. The recoil re-seats the primer against the bolt or the recoil shield. This is so reliable that John Garand first designed an auto action on this principle. Then the Army went and crimped the primers - and we ended up with the M-1 Garand.

[leadman]

Federal primers contain a different type of compound but still contain lead. There are lead free primers but have not seen any for sale.

[jwp475]

Not quite. The primers do back out of the case, all primers do. The recoil re-seats the primer against the bolt or the recoil shield. This is so reliable that John Garand first designed an auto action on this principle. Then the Army went and crimped the primers - and we ended up with the M-1 Garand.



Ah, yea that's what I said only in different words recoil back thrust what ever same effect