Tightning up old H&A Dbl. Bbl.

[Depreacher]

It's my dads 'ol circa 1910 Hopkins & Allen 12 ga. Double. 2 5/8" chambers, so I cut off 1/8" from the hull and load 6500 psI loads 7/8 oz shot, to keep it safe nowadays. As a dumb kid 50 years ago I shot everything through it includind a few baby mags:shock:. It's loose, since the hinge pin doesn't hold the barrels back against the frame like they should. No small wonder since several thousand 2 3/4" loads went through it. The hinge pin doesn't seem to have any wear on it, looks like the hinge mating surface on the barrels is whats worn, causing my problem. The bores look like new, so I want to try to save it. Thought about cutting a one hacksaw width hole 1/4" behind the hinge curve almost to the barrels and driving a very slender wedge in to take up the slack. Could then drill 2 holes through from the front and pin it with drill rod and file and polish to contour??????? Any ideas how??????????? All help appreciated. Mack

[para45lda]

I can't exactly remember how the latch on your shotgun looks but I have peened the lumps on some of mine to tighten them up. Maybe check some of the sxs forums.

I'm sure someone else has more knowledge than me and can give better information. My solution is something I consider temporary.

Wes

[Frank46]

Brownells sells taper pin reamers for enlarging the hole for the pin and I believe the pins also. Frank

[elk hunter]

The correct way is to put a new hinge pin of slightly larger diameter in as Frank45 suggests. A simple, but quick and cheap temporary fix is to cut a small piece of automotive shim stock a couple of thousands wider than the lug slot in the frame and bend it in a curve to fit around half of the hinge pin and then put the barrels back on. The shim acts like a larger diameter pin and pushes the joint back up tight. Shim stock is available in packages with several different thicknesses and enough to do every shotgun you will ever own for a few dollars at your local automotive parts store.

I do this on old shotguns that either I'm not going to shoot or that I don't want to change the original hinge pin on for what ever reason, some are a real bear. The shim will last a long time, costs little and may save a valuable piece from being damaged by inexperienced hands.

[John Taylor]

Reaming for a larger pin is the best fix. The peening trick is when your trying to dump it at a gun show, it don't hold up for very long. You could also lengthen the chambers for 2&3/4 and shoot trap loads. It would drop the pressure way down from shooting a 2&3/4" hunting load as has been used in the chamber as is. I have done several long taper chambers on shotguns to reduce recoil which equals less chamber pressure.

[Depreacher]

THANKS all, especially Elk Hunter. Believe I'll go with the shim stock trick for now. Sounds good to me. :D The larger hinge pin is best but I'll surely alter the cosmetics of the area around the pin when I file it to match it's contour to that of the receiver. If I were Turnbull, I would attempt it. Such is not the case. THANKS AGAIN. Mack

[KCSO]

I have a set of reamers and pins and have tightened a number of the old guns. No problems if you follow instructions. BTW upsetting the hinge is at best a temporary fix and will last less than a couple boxes of shells.

[Bret4207]

You can also elcectroplate the recess the hinge pin fits on he barrel lug. It works if it's not too far gone.

[Goatwhiskers]

Shimming the joint works reasonably well, some even epoxy the shim in place. Lengthening the chambers is not recommended in these old guns. Not because of what you personally might shoot in the gun (read: trap loads only in an old gun designed in the days of lower pressure ammo) but the danger that someone later on might start using "short magnum" loads or heaven forbid steel shot in those old soft steel barrels. I'm of an age that I think about what might happen after I'm gone when someone doesn't know the history of the gun. Goatwhiskers

[Depreacher]

Gents,

I am not going to lengthen the chambers 1/8" because the ancient steel there is thin enough, plus the new reamer may cut deeper forcing cones than is safe to have, after looking at the rapid taper of the barrels in that locale. This 'ol bird has VERY short forcing cones, and maybe for good reason. I am suspicious of all steels in the early 1900's in a not so high grade double. It's probably in the AJ Aubrey class, maybe a tad better. H&A is far below Fox and L.C. Smith in quality and probably raw materials too. The loads I shoot in here now are less than 7000 psi in 2 5/8" hulls I cut from 3" hulls. 1 oz. shot stops rabbits and Doves. A blowout would possibly take off fingers, or a hand. Still leaning toward the shim temporary cure. Hey, at 69, temporary looks long term to me anyway. :smile:THANKS for all the comebacks. Mack

[Depreacher]

ELECTROPLATING????????? Now that sounds reasonable. THANKS Bret 4207.

[Depreacher]

THANKS John,

I too had a chamber reamer with a long forcing cone from Brownells. Thought about going out to 2 3/4". Put the reamer up alongside the barrels in the correct position and said, "NO way". Just not enough steel for me. THANKS for your time and suggestion. Mack