RCBS Sizer original vs LAM 2

[Irascible]

What was changed when they went to the LAM 2? I have an old and trouble free original and it looks just like the new ones to me!

[Mike W1]

Can't really be sure but I think it was from a ratchet wrench system to adjust lube pressure to the new with a rod with balls on the end which is a PITA. Easily modified with a 1/4" socket and cutting a slot in it but one has to wonder why in heck they changed it in the first place.

[garym1a2]

Mines an old one and the ratchet works great.

[dromia]

Concur, the ratchet method suits me better.

[Mk42gunner]

There are a few differences in parts, these can be seen if you download the instruction manuals from RCBS.

As to why they did away with the ratchet-- My guess is cost savings.

Robert

[Naphtali]

Can't really be sure but I think it was from a ratchet wrench system to adjust lube pressure to the new with a rod with balls on the end which is a PITA. Easily modified with a 1/4" socket and cutting a slot in it but one has to wonder why in heck they changed it in the first place.Two related questions:
1. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the modification - unless you refer to dispensing with the horizontal rotating pin, or leaving its stump, then using an interchangeable wrench socket with slots cut to accept the rotating pin's stumps? If I got it right, I assume the socket becomes a "permanent" part of the Lube-A-Matic 2?

2. Will this modification allow the lubricant reservoir to be filled the same way that the original Lube-A-Matic was? If not, has anyone devised an upgrade to restore the ease of filling? To me, this is a big advantage of the older version.

[Mike W1]

Nothing is affected on the tool with this little mod. Used a 1/4' drive 1/2" socket and cut a slot in it with a metal grinder which allows you to put a 1/4" bolt through the existing hole and hole it in place. Removes in a second if need be. Will try and link a
couple pictures so you get the idea but bear in mind I have a cheesy camera. And I got the idea from some other unknown soul.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1848.jpg

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1847.jpg

[quasi]

The original RCBS sizer was the same as the late model Lacmiller model. There was a link from the sizer handle to the ratchet, they had auto lube pressure feed. I don't know how well it worked.

[ohland]

Nothing is affected on the tool with this little mod. Used a 1/4' drive 1/2" socket and cut a slot in it with a metal grinder which allows you to put a 1/4" bolt through the existing hole and hole it in place. Removes in a second if need be. Will try and link a couple pictures so you get the idea but bear in mind I have a cheesy camera. And I got the idea from some other unknown soul.

Went over to Menards and picked up a "Masterforce" 1/4" drive, 12mm 6pt socket - deep for $2.23 before tax. (Menards part 237-0550). Later today I'll use a V-block on it's end and clamp the socket so I can drill it out with a 1/2" drill. Then I can turn the v-block so it is back to horizontal, then clamp the socket in and drill it through with a 1/4" drill for the cross-pin.

Pics when I get em.

Chapman "Famous" Midget Ratchet
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/AboutChapmanTools.html

CM- 24 1/4 in. Square Drive Adapter
CM-13 Midget Ratchet
:coffee:

[Pepe Ray]

They changed the size and thread of the die retainer nut.
Pepe Ray

[Maven]

One of the LAM's has a solid base/bottom while the other is practically a clone* of the Lyman #450.


*The castings look like they came from the same manufacturer.

[ohland]

Well, I'm almost done. Note to self: sockets are tempered and plated. Opening up the 12mm socket to .510 or so was a beech. IF you have a rigid mill, you could use carbide without chipping. Ow, ow, ow.

If I had to do it again, I'd whip out some 3/4 inch stock about one to one and a half inches long, drill .250 end for end, drill 1/2 or 33/64ths to a depth of at least .600, then cross drill 1/4 inch for a roll pin. Take a cheapo hex shank driver bit (six sided shank), turn one end to .250, the stick it in the .250 inch hole in the end of the adapter. Drill for cross pin or solder it in. The Chapman wrench should fit on the hex bit shaft.

Having said all this, I do have the socket drilled out @ .600 deep, the cross-hole is drilled and aligns with the cross-shaft hole in the LAM2.

:roll:

[Mike W1]

Well, I'm almost done. Note to self: sockets are tempered and plated. Opening up the 12mm socket to .510 or so was a beech. IF you have a rigid mill, you could use carbide without chipping. Ow, ow, ow.

If I had to do it again, I'd whip out some 3/4 inch stock about one to one and a half inches long, drill .250 end for end, drill 1/2 or 33/64ths to a depth of at least .600, then cross drill 1/4 inch for a roll pin. Take a cheapo hex shank driver bit (six sided shank), turn one end to .250, the stick it in the .250 inch hole in the end of the adapter. Drill for cross pin or solder it in. The Chapman wrench should fit on the hex bit shaft.

Having said all this, I do have the socket drilled out @ .600 deep, the cross-hole is drilled and aligns with the cross-shaft hole in the LAM2.

:roll:

You went to a lot of extra work. A slot cut with a metal grinder would have done it in about a minute. And I prefer my 1/4" drive ratchet to those little devils too.

[ohland]

Tapped in the 1/4 by 3/4 dowel pin from Ace Hardware, and it fit. Only issue now is I got a deep socket. The LAM handle comes up and FAIK, it will work. The LAM ram enters all the way into the upper part of the casting, but the LAM handle is just a little past vertical.

Technically, it came out. Just a few small details.

:Bright idea:

[utk]

I followed Mike's directions to the letter except for the slot. The (short) socket was "cheapo" enough steel, so I could use a hack saw to make two cuts and break off the steel in between with a pair of pliers, thus creating the slot.
I used a Dremel with a diamond bit to remove all sharp edges.
The head of a short handled 1/4" drive ratchet just clears the LAM 2 handle in it's upper position.

Thanks for the post, Mike W1 !