View Full Version : adding antimony
dualsport
02-15-2012, 01:26 PM
I got some RotoMetals 50/50 Super Hard, 50% lead and 50% antimony. When I add it to the molten wheel weights in the pot I get a odd oatmeal looking froth on the top. What's the trick?
What temperature is your pot?
Try stirring it with a dry wooden stick.
The oatmeal-looking stuff is the antimony.
EDIT: The stuff from Rotometals is 30% antimony.
runfiverun
02-15-2012, 01:48 PM
turn the heat up [750-775] and then flux.
turn down the pot temp as soon as you start to flux.
Crank the temperature up and add a small amount at a time as you flux and stir like crazy. Like Ole I stir with a wooden paint stick and add wood shavings as well. At 30% Sb SuperHard is a great way to add Antimony !
Never skim the "oatmeal" ! :)
Jerry
dualsport
02-15-2012, 05:36 PM
Thanks guys, I'll give it another shot using the tips you've given me. Right now I have to go out to the trash and recover some oatmeal from the ww clip pile.
Larry Gibson
02-15-2012, 07:06 PM
I've got to ask why your adding the antimony to WWs? WWs are already rich in antimony and short on tin.
Larry Gibson
btroj
02-15-2012, 07:25 PM
But Larry, hard cast are better!
I would have to agree, the wheel weights don't need more Sb. Heck, I would rather add pure lead to them than anything else.
Larry Gibson
02-15-2012, 09:16 PM
Oh yeah....hard cast are better......oh silly me!
Larry Gibson
Here in southern California WW are getting very difficult to find but lead is commonly available ! I use the Rotometals 30/70 Superhard along with 63/37 solder drippings to build my own "WW alloy" of known uniform composition. Most of my casting is now a 50/50 blend of this "WW alloy" with pure lead.
Sam's 95/2.5/2.5 Isotope alloy plus a little Superhard makes a great casting alloy as well !
Jerry
dualsport
02-16-2012, 01:52 AM
Agreed wheelweights are fine as is for most anything, but I like to experiment.
btroj
02-16-2012, 08:05 AM
Ah yes, the reinvent the wheel concept. Got it.
Larry Gibson
02-16-2012, 12:33 PM
Agreed wheelweights are fine as is for most anything, but I like to experiment.
If you add 2% tin to the WWs you'll get a very good alloy with a BHN from 14 - 17. It also WQ or HTs very well. The tin makes the antimony that is already there blend in the ternary alloy much better.
Larry Gibson
dualsport
02-16-2012, 02:06 PM
Ah yes, the reinvent the wheel concept. Got it.
Bingo. I do want to reinvent the wheel. It's not fun for me to always just copy what others have already done. For competition I take advantage of the knowledge shared by others who have already been down that road, but just for grins I'll try a lot of oddball ideas, like a high antimony wheel weight alloy heat treated for a potential high velocity hunting bullet that performs acceptably. No way to know without giving it a shot. (I don't test on live animals)
fredj338
02-16-2012, 06:18 PM
I would NEVER try adding straight antimony, it's just too diff to work with. Adding a binary alloy like Rotometals is way easier to blend. http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/antimonial_lead.htm Keep in mind that the more antimony you add, the more brittle the alloy.
Max Brand
02-17-2012, 02:26 AM
That stuff will be off the Brinell scale, you'll have to test it via Rockwell.:kidding:
Frank
02-17-2012, 12:17 PM
I like to mix my WW's so I have 50/50 and water drop. It gives me a ductile alloy that is still BH 22. When I needed a harder skin, a little super hard alloy and I get BH 27 & 33 for handguns and rifles.
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