My First Attempt at a "D-Bit" Bullet Mold [Archive] - Page 2

Buckshot

03-12-2012, 03:53 AM

..............Longwood is spot on re: cleaning the leadescrew. I buy the 1.5" hog bristle brushes at Horror Fright by the box. Need one for the leadescrew, do as he suggests and cut the bristles back to maybe 3/4". Dip in paint thinner, kerosene, or Diesel fuel and hold it against the leadescrew as it slowly revolves, and allow the brush to move along it propelled by the thread.

The Chinese aren't idiots unless they're allowed to get away with it. My first REAL lathe was a 3 in 1 combo and the vertical column along with the underside of the bed still retained copious quantities of black casting sand, even though the plastic it was wrapped in held maybe a quart that had shook loose during shipping!

The gib may be a tapered style, but as if the guys mentioned seeing a row of sockethead or slotted screw heads on one side of the cross slide, that would indicate a non-tapered gib. The gib should be snug enough so as to feel a bit of 'drag' when operating the cross slide. That 'Drag' is subjective. The harder you make it the more wear will take place on the dovetails and the cross slide screw and nut. Set too loose and you'll lose cross slide rigidity.

Using ATF is better then nothing but is NOT what you want to use any longer then you have to. If you don't want to buy a gallon (~ $14 @ ENCO) of medium Way Oil, maybe Gary can front you a pint? THAT is what you want on the bed, and to put into the ball oilers. Way oil has additives to make it tacky. It sticks and doesn't have a tendancy to simply run down and out of cracks, etc. The other oil you'll probably need is spindle oil. It's about the same price as Way oil. Your operator's manual (if you can get past the Chinglish) what goes where.

I laughed when I saw your oil streak slug off the chuck. I have a few T shirts with oily "Racing Stripes" up the left side between the neck hole and sleeve :-) Next time you go to Lowes Homecenter pick up a couple of their very heavy duty perforated rubber mats. They interlock and are inexpensive compared to those in the tool catalogs and made by the same people.

http://www.fototime.com/D6F506031937D20/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/B6A71F44CF5DB6B/standard.jpg

See mats on floor. Shop vac does a bangup job of vacuming up swarf that may end up in the drain holes. The mats are 3'x3' and interlock. Very nice. They sure help to keep from tracking swarf around. Your wife WILL NOT enjoy finding it in the carpet!

...................Buckshot

uscra112

03-12-2012, 04:10 AM

The factory is probably a nasty black pit to work in. Very much like the ones in this country were before unions.

Ha! I've been in some as recently as 2001 that were black pits, UAW or no. The real pits were the foundries. I worked a project at GM St. Catharines (Ontario) where they were tearing down the old foundry. The whole foundry area was black. Anywhere that the carbon dust could settle undisturbed it was sometimes an inch thick. And they weren't scrapping that old plant, they'd sold it to the Chinese to make engine castings for obsolete Buicks.

+1 on the mats, except they are a bit spendy.

DoctorBill

03-12-2012, 11:03 AM

The "Belt"s" in my Lathe are a regular toothed belt about 1/2" wide
AND
a small Vee Belt maybe 26" in circumference and 0.176" (4.5 mm) {3/16ths?} wide
by 0.133" (3.3mm) thick !
Made by GATES Number 5M30 ? ribbed on top- Vee on bottom
Has "330" on it also.

Like a big Rubber Band. ENCO wants $18 for a SPARE.

Where can I get it for the normal $6 ?

Such a tiny belt !
I suppose it is tougher than nails !

I think a spare is called for !
Do the Aluminum Shaft "Break Away" Pins ever need replacing ?
The ones at the left end of the threading Shaft.

What spare parts should I get while the getting is good ?

DoctorBill

uscra112

03-12-2012, 06:54 PM

Actually those toothed belts are pretty tough. But I still would want a spare handy. A belt will always break at the worst possible time, unless you have a spare. Then it will never break.

Try www.mcmaster.com - - Grainger might also have 'em.

$18 doesn't sound too bad to me. Rubber is another oil-based commodity, and we all know what's happened to the price of oil. . . . .

FrankG

03-12-2012, 07:52 PM

Most automotive supplies have 'power transmission' belts . They are stouter and shaped different than a fan belt . NAPA should have them .

DoctorBill

03-12-2012, 08:11 PM

ENCO sent me an E-Mail with the Gates Belt Number and price.
$18 plus shipping (?).

I called KAMAN Bearing here in Spokane (Gates Distributor) and they can
get me one in 3 days for $10.20 ! I'm on it !

Nice ! If you keep looking, you'll find it.

"Ask and ye shall receive."

Will do the TIR soon and see if this bugger is working OK.

If not - I'll be asking how to fix a bad TIR....

DoctorBill

uscra112

03-12-2012, 09:09 PM

Um, if you're going to test by putting a bar in the 3-jaw chuck and indicating its' runout, don't expect too much.

At the rate you're going, I'm going to recommend this book:

http://www.faybutler.com/machinetoolrecon.htm

It has a comprehensive description of how to restore a lathe (and lots of other machines) to accuracy, and exact procedures on how to measure all features of that accuracy.

They want $90.00 a copy, but you'll have a grand time absorbing all the information.

There was also the "Tumpane" manual on machine tool accuracy testing.

The D.o.D. had a series of specifications, but I've forgotten the numbers now. . . .

DoctorBill

03-12-2012, 10:37 PM

I bought a 110v Elapsed time Hour Meter on E-Bay (from Mainland China).

http://www.mynetimages.com/a441dc31e0.jpg

I want to put it on this Lathe to know how many running hours it has on it - at some future date.

I don't know enough electronics to know which wires to hook it up to.
110 volt, single phase, 3/4 HP.

Can someone who knows this subject help me ?

Here is the schematic on the switch plate
http://www.mynetimages.com/ca9a7ceaca.jpg

and this is from the Manual.pdf page (if you can read it !)
http://www.mynetimages.com/b1db171b66.jpg

Here is a picture of the Switch
http://www.mynetimages.com/0e7122946e.jpg

That's all she wrote.

I know a bit about DC but AC leaves me out in left field.
What do U R V S 5 6 mean on the switch in the second photo ?

The hour meter has just two prongs for connection to 110v AC.

I'd put a VOM on the wires to see what is live in OFF, REV and FWD,
but the hour meter across some wires might 'booger up' the motor somehow.

Can I have the hour meter work off the switch and run in both forward
and reverse direction ?

I'd ask my friend Gary, but he is currently unavailable.

Edited in later - Is it 1/4 in one direction and 2/3 in the opposite direction ?
and - is that a double pole double throw switch - completely disconnected in "OFF" ?

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-12-2012, 11:54 PM

Total Indicated Runout.

Did I do it right ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/2c89a5aaba.jpg

If so, is it bad - or do I need to repeat it 1,000 times and get the mean
and standard deviation ?

Take it out and put it in, over and over....? Ooooh !

DoctorBill

heathydee

03-13-2012, 01:09 AM

What you have done there is to measure the runout of your 7/8"stock - verifying the accuracy of your three jaw chuck at that diameter. Chances are that different diameter stock will show different amounts of runout .

You need to check the alignment of your headstock to the lathe bed. That is done by setting the dial indicator up against the stock grasped in the chuck at the three o clock postion and winding the saddle back and forth . Over twelve inches or so there should only be about two thousandths difference . Repeat with the dial indicator at the twelve o clock position . This test will ensure the chuck is parallel to the lathe bed .

Zero difference is what one would hope for but that just isn't going to happen . There is always some slight mis-alignment .

DoctorBill

03-13-2012, 08:41 PM

My new ENCO 9x20 Lathe has just two bolt holes to mount it.

So I pushed, lifted and heaved the darned thing around until it was where
I want it to be on the table. Lord God is that thing heavy - and it is just a toy Lathe !

I then found out that I couldn't get to the holes underneath the Head or Tail Stock
to mark them with a pencil.

So I sprayed Black Paint on a Q-Tip and worked that into the hole and swished
it around.

Then I pushed, lifted and heaved the Lathe back and drilled two 3/8ths holes
for the 6" bolts. Then got it back to check if I did it right....

http://www.mynetimages.com/1a21d36eb0.jpg

Then I had to finger out how to mark the Aluminum Trays for those two holes !
Can't just whip the Lathe around and set it on the Trays to mark them !

So I measured and marked - hope I didn't screw the pooch on that.

I have to cut off the narrow side of the tray back by the Gear and Pulley Door
since it is lower than the tray lip.
I'll use my Air Die Grinding tool out in the garage to do that.

http://www.mynetimages.com/04fa9044e9.jpg

Then comes the pushing, lifting and heaving required to get the trays
under the Lathe and lining up the two holes again !

DoctorBill

PS - I bought some Aluminum and Steel today at a couple of metal recycling
places so I can learn cutting them. The Steel came from Stock, so it wasn't
just sold at 35¢ / lb. Couldn't find any good scrap steel rods.
Aluminum is $1.455 / lb here.

http://www.mynetimages.com/f334507703.jpg

uscra112

03-14-2012, 12:59 AM

Not too awful for a low-priced 3-jaw chuck. Or even some mid-price ones. Try it again with a smaller test bar, like 1/4" maybe. Never mind the 6" out - just the reading close to the chuck matters. That will say something about the accuracy of the scroll inside the chuck that drives the jaws in and out. All you know right now is the runout for that bar diameter.

And it'll all change when the scroll and the jaws wear in a little.

3-jaw chucks are for speed and convenience. If holding a part very concentric to the spindle matters, we use collets for small cylindrical parts and 4-jaw chucks for larger ones.

Try removing the chuck and indicating the spindle bore and also whatever taper or face or pilot locates the chuck.

DoctorBill

03-14-2012, 06:30 PM

I had said that the Four Jaw Chuck that came with the ENCO Lathe has two
(of the four) defectively made tightening holes.
Not centered on the bolts. Key won't fit into hole and engage the bolt also.

http://www.mynetimages.com/2c26595323_th.jpg (http://www.mynetimages.com/viewimage/2c26595323) <-- THUMBNAIL

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=1629144&postcount=238

I contacted ENCO and they told me that that particular Chuck was a freebie included
by the manufacturer and , as such, has no warranty !
It is not on their replacement parts list - they don't have any to replace it with.

You can imagine what I said to them about that ....! Give me a break !

So...they are sending me an Import Six Inch 4 Jaw Chuck (no cost to me)
via UPS. Item 271-6382. $122 normal cost. They don't want the bad one back.

The dysfunctional 4 jaw chuck was an 8 inch one, not six inch.

The Chinese ! "You no get warranty that item. It freebie and if no good,
tough fortune cookie, fella."

I feel bad for ENCO, but it is their problem dealing with ChiComms.

I am wondering - are all of the 4JC's made for that Lathe (sold by everybody)
by that factory BAD ?

Can you imagine what thousands of customers are going to do now...?

Anyway - I am a satisfied customer again.

DoctorBill

HollowPoint

03-14-2012, 08:12 PM

In all the time I've had my lathe I've never even taken a good look at the 4 jaw chuck that came with mine. All I've ever used was the three-jaw that came installed on it.

You'll find that these metal lathes have at least one other weak point in their design. It's the "Cross-Slide-Nut" found underneath the cross-slide.

Mine gave way about the middle of last year. They're made of the absolute cheapest metal alloy you can imagine.

You'll know when it's getting ready to go because you'll begin to develop excessive amounts of backlash on the cross slide.

I was able to mickey-mouse it into working for me at the time but, it just recently got to the point where it was no longer able to hold any kind of tolerances at all.

I have it taken apart right now so my lathe is basically dead in the water till I can machine a replacement for it. (tomorrow I hope)

I was going to just order another part but, wouldn't you know it; they're on back order till some time in April. That tells me that I'm not the only guy who's run into problems with this particular part.

They're not that complicated of a part. The only trick is the threads of the Cross-Slide's Lead Screw.
It's a left hand thread; and I still haven't figured out what thread pitch it is yet. Other than that, I should have it machined tomorrow some time.

I'm making it out of a piece of scrap aluminum that I had laying around. Even a wimpy piece of aluminum stock is still a step up from whatever type of metal was used to fabricate this factory part. I'm also making it about a 1/4" longer than the original.

Hopefully the additional 1/4" will help keep any backlash to a minimum.

I went ahead and ordered a replacement of the original just in case I can't find the right kind of left hand tap. It will be good to have it as an emergency replacement if my present DIY replacement doesn't work as I'd hoped. $8.00 for the replacement part and $7.97 to ship it. Bend over here it comes.

HollowPoint

heathydee

03-14-2012, 08:51 PM

Longwood

03-14-2012, 09:07 PM

DoctorBill

03-14-2012, 10:02 PM

http://www.mynetimages.com/6d624bb0d1.jpg

Seems like a monster compared to the 4 inch 3 Jaw Chuck !

Maybe Gary can fix the countersunk holes that are off center on his
Milling Machine ! (?)

I would hate to toss it for a boat anchor !

My Tiny Little V-Belt ! 27.8 Inch by 3/8 inch wide - true "V" cross section. GATES
http://www.mynetimages.com/1db8642134.jpg

OH - BTW - Isn't 3/4 HP rather a bit of overkill for a 9" lathe ?

DoctorBill

PS - I must be somewhat color blind ! I cannot see that rust on the 8 Inch
Chuck if I look at it, but it shows up in the photo ! How strange.

Box13

03-15-2012, 12:04 AM

DoctorBill,Did you get the hour meter connections figured out?Its hard without having the machine in front of me to do a few checks with a meter on...and the diagrams take a bit to figure out but...My guess is terminals #1 and #3 on the switch.Use a meter and see if you get power there in both forward and reverse.Also that the power is off when the machine is off.This is just my best GUESS as I dont have the machine here to work with.Please do the necessary checks and be extra CAREFUL...Robin

DoctorBill

03-15-2012, 12:41 AM

Box13 - You are an electronical genius !

Works perfectly ! 115 volts in either Forward or Reverse and no voltage
when switch is in the off position.

Thank you !

That wiring looked like a maze to me !
An A.C. Electronics person I am not....

It is done - hooked up and Silicone Glued to the back of the Lathe Headstock frame.
Works - no nasty sounds and the lathe still runs....

http://www.mynetimages.com/fdd77bd893.jpg

Nice..... $10 from E-Bay. In a year or two, I'll know how much I've used this Lathe.
No guessing.

According to the destruction manual, I have to lubricate the stink out of this thing
every day - well...not exactly every day...
So - I have to get those trays underneath before I can proceed or I'll have oil all over the bench.

Will cut the tray for under the Headstock today, then work on lifting it Egyptian Style
with levers and pulleys to put the trays in place....arrgggg !

DoctorBill

HollowPoint

03-15-2012, 01:33 PM

Hollowpoint , now that you have mentioned it , I remember having to machine up one of those cross-slide nuts for my lathe (a very similar if not identical model) about 17 or 18 years ago .
I made mine out of brass and if I remember correctly the thread size was 6mmx1 left hand . The little lathe had no means of revesing the leadscrew to cut a left handed thread so I mounted one of the spare gear cutting cogs on a simple stand bolted to the bench between the large double gear and the gearbox . I cut the internal thread without power , turning the lathe over by hand.
Memories !

Since my lathe is out of commission till I can get that new part made up, I'm kind of stuck with having to order the appropriate tap to do the job. I just want to make sure I order the correct one.

I drove over to the Ace hardware store down the street first thing this morning. I took Cross-Slide Lead-Screw with me. I don't have any metric thread gauges so I went there to use theirs.

According to the guy that did the measuring, it's an 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch. I didn't see the actual measuring being done so I still want to confirm this by posting an inquiry on the yahoo 9x20 lathe users group.

I'm having trouble logging onto that group right now. I haven't been on there in so long it's like having to start up all over again. I always get the answers I'm looking for there so I'll keep at it till I get what I'm looking for.

Being that his is a brand new machine, Dr. B shouldn't have to deal with these little setbacks for some time to come. Who knows, the manufactures of these specific lathes may have very well upgraded this problematic little part by now.

I still look forward seeing some of the good Doctor's future projects.

I know I'm not the only one here that does but, man I just love hearing about other guys projects. I must be easily bored or something.

HollowPoint

DoctorBill

03-15-2012, 01:51 PM

HollowPoint - are you talking about part number 4 on this diagram ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/722f8bfa10.jpg

On my "Parts List" of my Manual.....it is called "Nut" !

Maybe I should order a backup...

DoctorBill

HollowPoint

03-15-2012, 04:26 PM

My parts diagram lists it as a "Cross Slide Nut." It's also listed as number 4 on the list.

It could be that mine was made a little more cheaply than anyone elses.

I didn't mean to strike fear in the hearts and minds of other 9x19 metal lathe owners.
I've used my lathe quite a bit. That could be why this particular part went south on me
so soon.

To be honest, I only recall coming across a couple of other online posts that mention having
problems with this small nut. My assumptions were drawn mainly by the fact that they've been
on backorder for some time now.

It never hurts to have backup parts but, who can say if you'll experience the same parts
failure as this. If you order now, (at least from Grizzly) you won't get your part until they
restock their inventory. I never thought to call any of the other 9x19 metal lathe sellers.

Chances may be far better that they actually have them in stock now rather than later. I wish I
would have thought of that before I laid my money down.

I don't suppose yours is still taken apart for cleaning? I thought if you had a set of metric thread gauges you
could maybe confirm that the thread pitch on the Cross-Slide's lead-screw was 8mm x 1.25. If not, it's no
problem. I'll just have to work on getting connected with the yahoo 9x20 lathe users group again.

HollowPoint

DoctorBill

03-15-2012, 05:42 PM

Deleted - double post happened - see next posting....

DoctorBill

03-15-2012, 05:44 PM

I have an idea to run past you 'machinists' looking at this...

How about drilling two holes in the cross slide on either side of that "Cross Slide Nut"
(see image below - the arrows point to where I am suggesting drilling the holes)
so that you can put an oiling tube from your oiler down over the cross slide screw
and periodically oiling it with some thick oil.

http://www.mynetimages.com/fce7ab091d.jpg

The lower arrow shows where you could drill on the cross slide plate, also.
You can then have access to the long bolt on either side and keep it lubed.

To keep chips from falling thru the hole, tap it and countersink a tapered head screw
hole so that you can screw at flat taper head screw in there, out of the way of the
top slide assembly, allowing free movement - but have access to oil the long bolt underneath.

My friend Gary (my personal guru of machinery) uses BAR OIL (for chain saws)
when he wants oil to cling to the item.

Just an idea....

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-15-2012, 08:50 PM

Aluminum Trays are in place now. I'll leave the two Bolts just sit free - no tightening down.

http://www.mynetimages.com/1c7b235e06.jpg

Going for Gross Leveling of the table at this point in time.

My Concrete Basement Floor is about as level as the sides of Mt St Helens !

This will take a while.

I think it is time for a big bowl of Chili (with cheese) and a cold Beer....or three.

DoctorBill

Buckshot

03-16-2012, 12:35 AM

What you have done there is to measure the runout of your 7/8"stock - verifying the accuracy of your three jaw chuck at that diameter. Chances are that different diameter stock will show different amounts of runout .

.............He was using a 6" drill blank made by L&I. I doubt there was more then .0002" runout in that drill blank, so what he was showing should be very close. If that chuck is worth a nickle it really shouldn't matter much what the OD is. If that new scroll plate is so poor as to change more then a thousandth or so over it's range he'll have to live with the fact.

...............Buckshot

Buckshot

03-16-2012, 12:47 AM

...............You do not HAVE to level the lathe DOWN the bed (headstock to tailstock end). It is ACROSS the bed that's important. You want to make sure there is no twist in it. The machine shop on the destroyer I was on was seldom 'level' :-) However the lathe bed was level to itself ACROSS the way's.

.................Buckshot

nanuk

03-16-2012, 06:49 AM

.......It is ACROSS the bed that's important. You want to make sure there is no twist in it.
.................Buckshot

that makes perfect sense, and should be something that one comes to intuitively, BUT it is always helpful to have someone mention it again for us non-machinist guys, cause the reality that I live on is seldom level... @¿@~

Swede44mag

03-16-2012, 10:27 AM

uscra112

03-16-2012, 10:46 AM

Would an ordinary 12-point thinwall socket fit in there?

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 11:21 AM

Buckshot - I understand about the leveling or the crossways.

However, when I went to do that (at least grossly until I can borrow Gary's Machinist's Level),
I came up against the rails being of unequal height.

http://www.mynetimages.com/8e591b5a5f.jpg
Paint chipping off and rust starting to form !

I presume that most Lathe's rails are like mine, so how does one get those rails level ?

I can put some parallel bars on the right rail to bring it close, but I'll never know if the
rails are the exact same height.

I am going to assume that you'll tell me that it isn't important to have the rails exactly level -
just exactly parallel - front end to rear end.

DoctorBill

PS - uscra112 - It might...but, as Gary said, I should see what ENCO's reaction to having a
defective part was going to be. They tried to weasel out of it, but I didn't accept that.
They probably lost their profit on my purchase, but why should the purchaser suffer for their bad
business with the ChiComms ?
If the Catalog lists it as "Standard Equipment", then - by God - it is covered by the warranty !
(Page 502 of the 2012 Master Catalog - middle left of page).
I'll try your suggestion...

R.M.

03-16-2012, 11:53 AM

Put a parallel bar on each flat portion to the right of the Vee.
I'd rethink the bolting of the head. Not that this lathe could take supper-heavy cuts, but the bed could torque without the head being fastened down.

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 12:23 PM

R.M. - That sounds like a good idea.

Gary told me not to worry about the Tailstock end so much since the Lathe
is so short.
He doesn't feel that it can flex much - whereas the BIG LONG Lathes can
easily flex over that long traverse.

I don't think I'l be taking 'big cuts' for one LONG time !

Probably many shallow cut and being very careful since this machine scares the
dump out of me !
Just the idea of cutting into metal and peeling off slivers and coils astounds me.

Gary tells me of big industrial Lathes cutting 1/2 swaths into huge ship drive shafts
and the big cannons on Battleships (The Bismarck !).

My first 'projects', I think, will be Aluminum bullet molds and I'd like to try making
a Taper Crimper for the Paper Patched 45-70's that I load.
Gary made me one for my Martini-Henry 577-450 reloading. Works very nicely.

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 01:08 PM

Been reading here and there about Lathes and Usage of them.

Gary gave me a CD titled, "Manual of Lathe Operation and Machinist's Tables"
by
Engineering Department - ATLAS PRESS COMPANY.

Looking around on the Internet, I saw that one book recommended just running
a brand new Lathe for at least one hour.
Just oil it, turn it on and let it run for a hour as a "Breaking in", as it were.

Doing so now.

This will at least tell me if I will have problems during the warranty period.

I also ordered a CD from Amazon titled,
"HOW TO RUN A LATHE" -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370568697345&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 01:54 PM

Whilst 'running in' the Lathe, I tried the 'Automatic Feed' and that works nice.

Then I flipped the 'Threading Half-Nut Lever' and tried to engage the Threading Dial.

It will not engage even if I press it in. It is not spring loaded.

Looking at the helical gear on the Threading Dial Assembly, one can see
that the Helical Gear is not being engaged at the center of the curved teeth -
more toward the gear's edge. No - I haven't cleaned the screw off yet.

http://www.mynetimages.com/f1ac2a9b8c.jpg

I suppose this is the "Tweaking" that one must do with Chinese Lathes.

I will take it apart and add a washer or two to the upper spindle to align
the Helical Gear with the threading rod - i.e. push the gear down a half
of a Framistan so that the threaded rod rides in the curved center of the gear.

Later - Fixed the Threading Dial Helical Gear....

Cleaning the Leadscrew....time consuming.
Found that a Pipe Cleaner gets the grease out of the threads nicely.
http://www.mynetimages.com/1ba991335d.jpg

While I was doing this, my replacement 4 Jaw Chuck (HEAVY!) from ENCO arrived (UPS)
.....................................Nice one !

http://www.mynetimages.com/d9bae2baa3.jpg
Forgot to include the Chuck Key in the picture !

DoctorBill

Swede44mag

03-16-2012, 05:07 PM

I never thought of using a pipe cleaner I sprayed mine down with Brake Cleaner and used a brush.

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 05:37 PM

Pipe Cleaners are one handy thing to have around !

...as well as Q-Tips....Kleenex....popsicle sticks....Bar-B-Que Skewers...
Rubbing Alcohol.

Couple six packs of Beer - can't forget that !

http://www.mynetimages.com/0101159211.jpg
Keep adding solvent (mineral spirits - paint thinner).

My Leadscrew has a horizontal Slot (Why ?) that has such bad burrs that I wonder
if it will eat up the Halfnuts !?

http://www.mynetimages.com/30023130de.jpg

Is there a good way to deburr the thread edges on that slot - other than one at a time
with a small file ?

Maybe with a heavy stiff spinning wire brush on a power hand drill ?

DoctorBill

dragonrider

03-16-2012, 06:34 PM

To level you will need two parallels of the same size to place on the flat surface next to each v. They must be high enough to be above the v's so you can place the level across the parallels. Do not push hard on the half nut lever to engage them, hold it down with light pressure when the machine is running and the leadscrew will thread will line up and the nuts will engage. This is a feel thing and you will feel it when they engage. the keyway in the leadscrew there to drive your crosslide, therre is a gear with a key in it inside the carriage this transfers power to the crosslide screw when you engage the feed. I got no easy way to remove the burrs on the leadscrew, but is should be done and I believe the time spent doing it will aid the longevity of the halfnut and the thread indicator gear.

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 07:17 PM

Broken in - run 30 min forward - 30 minutes backward.

Been oiling bearings in the Gear Box, Pulley bearings, Leadscrew far end bearing,
everything I can find that moves.

"If it moves, oil it ! If it doesn't move, paint it !"

Gary squirts a line of oil on his ways - tried that. Not that easy !
Must take practice !

I wonder if a brush with oil on it would work for me.
Keep it in a jar to keep the dirt off of it.

Keep running into that grease they packed it in !

Caught myself leaning over the Lathe with my shirt hanging out of my belt !
Maybe I should wear a tie when I use it !

Question - as to the ways being level cross ways...
What do you do if they aren't level by the Head and Tail ?
i. e - is the frame then twisted and you are screwed ? !

http://www.mynetimages.com/103d9c4620.jpg

What about them burrs on the Leadscrew slot ? Anybody ever attended to them ?

Well...purdy soon I'll have to Sh*t or get off the pot !

The first operation will be scary !

What should I do first, just shave some metal off of an Aluminum Rod ?
Gary made a pointed HSS tool for me - showed me how to grind them.
He had a rounded off one that he gave me plus 4 3/8" sq by 3 inches bars.

http://www.mynetimages.com/ed3f2048cb.jpg

Buckshot gave me a butt-load of cutting tools, too !

DoctorBill

nanuk

03-16-2012, 08:02 PM

that is that tool ground to cut in reverse?

john hayslip

03-16-2012, 08:19 PM

I don't know if it would work with a D bit but a friend of mine had some nice old bullet reamers. He took two vises, one smaller that would fit crosswise in the jaws of the larger. The blocks to be were put in the smaller vise and with its jaws closed on the blocks the larger vise was arranged so that his drill press was centered on the parting line of the blocks The jaws of the larger vise were well lubricated, so the smaller vise could self center on the cutter. The blocks spread further apart than the cutter and the jaws of the smaller vise were closed with the cutter rotating and a small cut made, withdrawn and the blocks cleaned and the process repeated til the blocks were fully cut. Made some nice looking molds. This was a full reamer so I don't know if it would work with the D bit but it might be worth a try. I think I'd try drilling an undersized hole first. Probably use a small milling cutter for the initial opening. If you try it and it works let me know if you please. Thanks in advance

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 08:23 PM

nanuck - I had not though about it being a right or left handed cutter until you asked.

Looking at what Gary ground for me - I'd guess (in my ignorance) that it
will cut in either direction !

http://www.mynetimages.com/00de24cb7a.jpg

It has relief for either direction.

Maybe Gary is smarter than the average bear !

My replacement 4 Jaw Chuck from ENCO.

Is the Machined Depression at the top a "Reference" hole, or a
balancing adjustment cut ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/193fda9461.jpg

http://www.mynetimages.com/af9131a801.jpg

No set screw ! Is it NORMAL that each individual has to drill and tap for a set
screw for the individual Lathe ?
I'll have to drill and tap for a 6mm x 1mm x 10mm cup set screw. (Buy 5 !)

The ChiComms gave me one set screw for two Chucks ! Cheap Buggers....

This 'replacement' is a nice looking Chuck, in any case !

DoctorBill

PS - John - you lost me !

Can you draw what you described ? Maybe a picture - I do not follow....
Are you talking about a "Toolpost Vice" setup ?
Remember - I am a raw newbie to this Lathe business and being like a babe in the woods.
DB

FrankG

03-16-2012, 09:48 PM

Before I tried engaging the half nut I would definatly take time with a 3 corner file and debur that screw . Dont think a wire wheel will touch it other than round them over . Those burs will ruin the half nut real quick like !

If you are real conservative a six pack should hold you over until you get done deburring :)

DoctorBill

03-16-2012, 09:59 PM

I have a really tiny 3-corner file and it is not small enough for those threads !

This may take some thought....

Maybe a fine Hacksaw Blade will fit between them.
then I have to hone the flat portion running the length of the screw.

I'd like to round off the sharp portion of the tip of each thread at the cut.

Those are like small cutting tools right at the edge of the slot !

Not easy to get at and a Butt-Load of them to do !

This will take a day or two to do - Better get another six pack...and some chips.

Bugger All - Bloody Chinese workmanship !

DoctorBill

PS - My elapsed time hour meter is working just like downtown - It's Chinese, too.

HollowPoint

03-17-2012, 11:36 AM

I don't recall doing half of the prep-ing to my 9x19 lathe that you've done with yours before using it. I just un-crated it, set it up on my home made stand and went at it.

If I'd have gone through the "Breaking in process" you've gone through I may not have had one of the parts failures I've experienced.

That notch in the lead-screw also serves as a ditch into which any metal shavings can retreat to and still allow the threads to be engaged with out being clogged by those metal shavings.

Over time, those small metal shavings will inevitably clean off alot of those burrs you asked about. I think they eventually wear off with normal usage of the machine. Of course cleaning them off before hand would most likely add to the longevity of your new lathe.

HollowPoint

DoctorBill

03-17-2012, 09:54 PM

It is ready to do some turning.

http://www.mynetimages.com/93cd9092e7.jpg

I drilled and tapped the new Chuck Adapter for the replacement Four Jaw Chuck
for a 6mm x 1.0mm x 10mm long Set Screw.

Have to go buy some more Metric set screws -
the ChiComms only gave me one lousy set screw !

Put the Electrical Boxes on either end of the Table.

Put a Cardboard Splash Guard on - held by strong magnets.

Tired - "Bed Time For Bonzo"

I'll try turning an Aluminum Rod tomorrow. Pray for me.

"Please Lord, Don't Let Me F**k This Up !" Alan Shepard's prayer...

DoctorBill

PS - I'll build a back shelf soon - to hold all the stuff required to use this wee beastie.

I can't believe that I actually have a Lathe !

Longwood

03-17-2012, 10:30 PM

I would recommend a thread file (probably have to order) or one from a set of needle (jeweler) files that has numerous choices..
Less likely to damage the threads.

I was like HollowPoint also, started making stuff and cleaned as I went.
If I looked too hard, I could probably still find some of that sticky goop they use.

DoctorBill

03-18-2012, 12:11 AM

I know from reading the Destruction "Manual" that came with the Lathe
that I might need to shim the tool to get it in the center.

That is a 3/8" cutting tool that Gary ground for me.

But a shim a whole 1/4 inch thick ! ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/90a1a09cd5.jpg

Actually several Framistans less than 1/4 inch it seems to me....( 0.040" ?)

...am I on the right track ?

That is an Aluminum Rod and if the center of it is there, then any rod will have
the center there and I'll always need about 0.245 (more or less) to shim a 3/8"
cutting tool.

Should I make several 0.245 Shims (whatever it turns out to be) for use permanently
every time I use a 3/8" tool ?

Why isn't the tool holder of adjustable height ?

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-18-2012, 12:29 AM

That piece of steel can be ground to any shape you need.
Grind a little more off too lower the tip.
I can tell you have not read all of your reading assignments.
For shame!

R.M.

03-18-2012, 12:41 AM

As you sharpen the tool, the cutting edge will get lower, so your shim will have to be increased to suit.

DoctorBill

03-18-2012, 01:43 AM

Grind it down - raise it up !

Show me what yous guys use for shims. Good - In Focus - Pictures !

I need to know what to obtain for shim material that will support those bits.

DoctorBill

R.M.

03-18-2012, 02:56 AM

Buckshot

03-18-2012, 03:53 AM

Grind it down - raise it up !

Show me what yous guys use for shims. Good - In Focus - Pictures !

I need to know what to obtain for shim material that will support those bits.

DoctorBill

..............That's a crying shame about the leade screw and those burrs in the keyway.

http://www.fototime.com/6BAA7B3FA3B208C/standard.jpg

This is a photo of the back of the apron on my 11" Logan. My leadescrew also has a keyway drive slot down it's length. The leadescrew goes through that worm gear. The wormgear has a key down it's length which rides in the keyway of the leadescrew. The wormgear powers a geartrain which runs the carriage up or down the bed, and also powers the cross slide if selected.

To the left of the wormscrew is the "Half nuts". These clamp around the leadscrew and are used in conjunction with the QC box for cutting threads, and ONLY for cutting threads. The leadescrew on your lathe IS an ACME thread, isn't it? I definately would clean up those burrs before engaging the half nuts as the burrs for sure won't do the half nuts any good.

http://www.fototime.com/5D8266D7DD3697C/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/6A7B4820DA9AEED/standard.jpg

I don't use shims, per se. I have an "Aloris type" quick change toolpost LEFT PHOTO: is the best pic I have of the toolpost. The toolpost holds (oddly enough) toolholder blocks. RIGHT PHOTO: These are 5 toolblocks with tools preset for running Lyman die bodies. The toolpost has a lever on top which locks and unlocks the toolblock. You unlock the toolblock and lift it off the male dovetail, drop another into place and then lock it into place via the toolpost lever.

Each toolblock has a threaded rod extending upwards with a threaded washer type disc, and above that a nut which locks the disc in position. You run the disc up or down the threaded rod to position the cutting tool into it's correct position, and then lock it with the nut. The disc rests atop the toolpost. This way you may repeatedly remove and replace THAT TOOL once set without having to re-set it each time.

The tools in order of operation from front to back are: 1) Facing tool, 2) Righthand turning tool 3) Grooving tool to cut the groove for the 'O' ring 4) Tool to cut the 60º bevel, 5) Parting blade. Over a period of time you can accumilate as many toolholder as you deem necessary to cover basic operations. Basic might be a block for a facing tool, a lefthand tool, a right hand tool, a threading tool, and maybe a boring bar.

http://www.fototime.com/07A1C1C51FF349D/standard.jpg

Here's a photo of the toolpost with a boring bar holder. In the photo however I'm using a ho-made bar with a round HSS bit ground to use for cutting internal threads.

http://www.fototime.com/FEE65FDDEE0D2C4/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/864A80D8FDBE57E/standard.jpg

The beauty of the QC toolpost and holders is you can go from LEFT PHOTO: External turning (flying chips!) to RIGHT PHOTO: Boring, in about 10 seconds.

These type toolposts are available as Piston, or Wedge types and in AXA, BXA, CXA, etc sizes. I have a BXA on my lathe and it's 'just' a tad larger then needed. For your 9" machine should you decide to get one I'd suggest the AXA size.

.................Buckshot

http://www.fototime.com/1BDF8B9CF2C77FA/standard.jpg

Lathe jewelry [smilie=w::bigsmyl2:

Longwood

03-18-2012, 12:36 PM

You know the metal banding strap that they use to hold loads down on pallets? They can be cut with snips, and work well. You might need some thinner, some thicker, but any material that supports the whole tool and the right thickness is just the ticket.

With carbides,, ,, instead of constantly grinding new and expensive bits, I usually use new or undamaged used tool steels, parallels, banding material, coldroll and hotroll bar stock etc.etc. to get the proper altitude.
With the tool steels, I use a parallel or another steel that is high then grind the cutting tool to the needed altitude.
If I cut the steels shorter, I can get as many as 4 tools at one time in the little holder you have.
When I looked at the Photo of goodies you got, It pretty much included what you need but I could not tell if you got any really small steels. I decided to put a couple of small tool steels in with the stock I am sending in case you need them for boring bar bits or shims.
I think there are two each 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4".

DoctorBill

03-18-2012, 02:03 PM

R.M. - OMG - yes ! Those metal bands almost got tossed out last Garbage Day !

They are still setting beside the Garbage Cans.

You see - that's why I keep everything !

I'm going out to rescue them right now.

I'll cut them into small pieces and keep them in a cigar box on the shelf.

I had saved such bands before, but seldom used them so now I toss 'em.
Back to saving them...I kind of keep my eyes peeled for shim metal now !

Buckshot - Thank you for the nice photos. Gary has that kind of Aloris type
quick change sets and has about maybe 15 hanging beside his Lathe.
He said he made most of them himself on his Milling Machine.

I will work on the Leadscrew burrs as time goes on - don't believe that
I'll be doing threading for a while.

Nice to see what is on the backside of the apron !
I don't have the nerve to disassemble that yet.

Is a set screw 'normal' on the back of the Chuck Spindles ?
My replacement Chuck Adapter had none and when I put the Lathe in
reverse, it almost spun off the spindle before I could stop it !

Drilled and tapped for the metric set screw this Lathe uses - what a job !
The adapter metal came away in tiny sandy granules, instead of long turnings
like other steels, when I drilled the pilot hole for the Threading Tap.

I have to get over being afraid of this Lathe....of getting hurt and/or breaking it.
Mostly the latter. Always happens when you are unprepared for it !

Longwood - Thank you so much.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-18-2012, 02:39 PM

Stick with aluminum for a while.
Experiment with making cuts and tool grinding to special shapes.
Drill some stock then bore the holes bigger to see what you can do and can not do.

It is pretty hard to break a lathe unless you are watching your cut too closely and accidentally run the vise into the jaws or don't disengage the drive in time.
Yes,,, My vise has the evidence of me doing just that, but I blame it on using short cutoffs that I get cheap. Stupid tricks cause accidents.
Last week, I was deburring an edge that was too close to the spinning jaws and broke a needle file that got a little too close to them.
It almost cut me but not quite. Smarted like the Dickins. Could have put out an eye.

I will admit, I have broken tools and jammed the chuck a couple of times. Lotsa of belt sqeekin but that was about all. Now and then, I get a stuck reamer or large drill and spin the tool in the tailstock. Also not good but the little lathe has survived it all and is still turning parts.

Hang on to a couple of longer pieces of the banding material, it's fairly good steel and can come in real handy for many things. You want need very many short ones. I never stack it in the tool holder.

DON'T EVER LEAVE THE KEY IN THE CHUCK!
NEVER NEVER NEVER!

Friday, it was Flip Flops and short pants.
That all changed drastically yesterday or I would be in the shop today.:cry:

FrankG

03-18-2012, 03:31 PM

I dont think its a good idea to use your ground parallels for shims. Better to use scrap steel , aluminum , etc.
The wide opening will allow use of wide range of tooling.
As long as you can get tools solid at correct height all is good .

DoctorBill

03-18-2012, 04:26 PM

I cut up the Crate Metal Bands into pieces the length of my Tool Post
Clamp
and also a 1/8th x 1/2 metal bar.

As I collect metal for shims, I'll keep them in this box.

http://www.mynetimages.com/5c856e8a85.jpg

I have been reducing the thickness of a piece of the 1/8th bar to shim the tool.
Is this close enough for government work ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/cd2bb1e0be.jpg

Not easy reducing a metal flat with no milling machine....whine !

I will make "dedicated" shims for each cutting tool so as not to have to
fit shims every time I remove a tool...

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-18-2012, 05:14 PM

I got a good laugh at the number of shims you cut. Should be enough for you and about 20 other machinists.
Nah,, just rattling your cage.

Me thinks you are going about the tool tip lowering the wrong way.
Grind on the cutting tip, not the rest of the steel. Get used to it, you will be doing it a lot.
Leave the steel itself alone, it is ground way flatter than you will be able to do. The top, no biggie. the bottom,,, different story.
Have Gary show you some of the steels he has ground for special cuts. It might amaze you. That is why you got so many steels in the care package. You need lots of them.

DoctorBill

03-18-2012, 09:00 PM

Well, LongWood....if three shims are good, then 30 is ten times better !

I just bought more set screws at Home Depot - and some wood for the back shelf.

Was going around fingering all the sheet type metal thing-a-mabobs to see
if they'd make good shims of various thicknesses.

Is that a machinist thing - seeing useful shop goodies in "this and that" ?

I get on the Lathe stuff and get pissed if the phone rings !
I don't want to be interrupted....bugs me to have to go to the bathroom.

I think I've got it bad.

DoctoBill

PS - This Lathe is VERY Dangerous - like when you bend down to pick up something
you dropped and hit your head on the Cross Slide Crank Handle when you stand up !
Ooooh....

FrankG

03-18-2012, 09:23 PM

Cut a few shims from pop cans,veggie cans and aluminum or brass sheet stock . Look for all the variations of thickness you can find . Then you can mix/match to set tool ht. where it needs to be . A piece of 3/16" clean and flat ............sure , why not ? What ever it takes to get there . :)

Doc , heres a pic of my old 1913 Cincinnatti 16x60 I picked up some time back to play with. Heavy old fella to move in like the Egytians did !
The old machine is a smooth runner with bronze bearings and flat belt .
Thought you might enjoy a chuckle :)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/ModocWrangler/lathe/lathe001.jpg

DoctorBill

03-19-2012, 12:49 AM

FrankG - Wow !

I'll have to take a picture of Gary's old turn of the 20th century Lathe.
I'd guess the bed is 8 - 10 ft long and the Chucks in it are 14" to 18"
in diameter. A bloody monster.

He said he rebuilt it. I think he has to change chucks with a ceiling hoist.

I saw it when I was not interested in buying a Lathe, so I don't remember
many specifics.

I think the name is Boyle-Ames and Hamilton. OLD.

If he'll let me photograph it, I'll put it in this Thread.

As to Gary - he just called from out of town to ask what progress I've made.

Told him about the Leadscrew - he says don't engage the Half-Nut !

Says I should take it out and 'finish' it in the chuck. The burrs are awful
and need to be removed and the thread edges rounded off.

He thinks I need to finish the tailstock clamping plate and work on the
underneath of the rails so that the tailstock slides more easily.

He thinks I should grind off the flat end of the Chuck Taper so that it
isn't pushed out by the tailstock ram so quickly.

My Dead Center has a short taper and the Chuck Taper has that long flat on
the end which I don't need there.

He also said the three jaw chuck is not the best chuck for really accurate
work, the four jaw is better since each jaw can be run in independently. Interesting !

Christ - do I have a lot to learn. I feel like a second grader in a graduate
school class.

Some Photos of Gary working on my Carcano barrel with his basement
Lathe.
http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forum/getrefs/id/224437/type/0

He made the Steady Rest himself.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-19-2012, 01:13 AM

[QUOTE=DoctorBill;1639851]FrankG - Wow !

I'll have to take a picture of Gary's old turn of the 20th century Lathe.
I'd guess the bed is 8 - 10 ft long and the Chucks in it are 14" to 18"
in diameter. A bloody monster.

Little
I worked in a shop in Sutherland Oregon that had a lathe that was about 20 feet long and had a 48 inch chuck.
They could put a 6 foot bull gear onto the Shaper and cut a keyway.
I overhauled a Gisholt once that had a five foot chuck.
If you want to see a monster machine, you should see the 36" injection molder we put in my friends garage.
I can't remember how much it weighs but my head is stuck at 11 tons.

Longwood

03-19-2012, 01:17 AM

Bill
Did you see the hollow point mold the guy on Smokeless Paper Patching made?

DoctorBill

03-19-2012, 03:03 AM

I need help with a CHINESE PUZZLE !

This is, I believe, a single tool holder which came in a bag with my Lathe.

I cannot figure out how it is assembled or used !

The "Manual" only lists it as coming with the Lathe.

The ChiComms sure don't explain anything well if at all !

http://www.mynetimages.com/6fe59dffce.jpg

How is it assembled ? It must set on/in the Tool Post....

Does anyone have anything like this ?
If so, a picture of it assembled would surely help !

I don't understand how it works, especially the short Pin.
What is the long nut for ? Does it go between the metal plates ?
The triangular plate goes on top, I suppose.

It is a puzzlement....

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-19-2012, 02:26 PM

My first cuts into Aluminum Rod - 0.002 Inch per slow pass.

Nothing blew up or broke or went flying - except turnings.
Vacuumed them up immediately.

http://www.mynetimages.com/4aefa563d2.jpg

Whew !

http://www.mynetimages.com/40d7fb994e.jpg

Strange - the rounded end cutter cut going in and cut more going out
(reversed the apron direction) and I went slow ! Why did it cut off some more
going back over what it had just cut ? Used hand crank.

http://www.mynetimages.com/20caf63fde.jpg

This is fun. Learning the Lathe's controls and which directions to set the
Tool Holder and Top Slide.

DoctorBill

heathydee

03-19-2012, 05:06 PM

Longwood

03-19-2012, 05:21 PM

The work flexes away from the cutting tool . It can be minimized with careful tool sharpening and the attack angle of the tool . The effect will always be there to a greater or lesser degree . The farther out from the chuck the cut is made the worse the flexing will be. A long unsupported workpiece will have a taper cut on it every time .

It is the slop in the lathe.
I simply bring the tool away from the work.
I use a dial indicator to make sure I know where I am when I start the next cut.
These little lathes need a dial indicator (or two) really bad.

Longwood

03-19-2012, 05:47 PM

[QUOTE=DoctorBill;1639930]I need help with a CHINESE PUZZLE !

[smilie=b:

I did not get one like it,,, but I can guess.

Take the tightening handle off of the toolholder on the lathe.
But the square dumerflatchies on the bolt sticking up,
The long twisted thingie goes around the bullet looking gizmo which goes in the little holes.
Now put the triangular shaped dumerflatchie on the tool holder bolt. Make sure that bullet thingie fit into the top hole.
Screw the small hex shaped hickie onto the long wrinkly thing then screw it into the wrinkled hole in the bottom dumerflatchie. You may have to squeeze the long twisted thingie some
The weird looking whatchamacallit goes into the divot looking spot on the triangular shaped dumerflatchie.
Now put the toolholder handle back onto the bolt that holds it to the vice.

HollowPoint

03-19-2012, 06:34 PM

Hey Dr. B:

I'm just curious; what is the slowest RPM you can get out of your new lathe? Mine is 130 RPM.

My reason for asking is because at that speed I had a heck of a time doing any kind of accurate threading when I used my "Threading-Dial" only. It would spin far too fast for me to accurately engage my threading lever at the exact same mark each time.

I tended to cut over-lapping threads.

I'm fairly sure that the little chinese kids that assembled my lathe assembled yours as well. Since your lathe is newer their probably teenagers by now with a little more assembling experience though.

I don't see any cosmetic differences between my Grizzly G4000 and your Enco brand lathe. I was just wondering if you could gear down your RPMs below the 130 RPM that I'm limited to?

When I do any threading on my lathe I set it up the same way you would on any other 9x19 metal lathe. The only difference is that I keep the threading lever engaged all the time and just use the forward and reverse on-and-off switch to go back and forth with.

This method gives me clean accurate threads; even though it's probably not the proper way to go about it. I was just curious to see if the newer models have changed the gears to address this.

HollowPoint

FrankG

03-19-2012, 06:37 PM

Longwood

03-19-2012, 06:58 PM

Hey Hollow point.
That cosmetics is because of BONDO.
Knock a chip in the paint and there is a good chance you will see Plastic.

Longwood

03-19-2012, 07:03 PM

Think of the square piece and the triangle piece as bread for a sandwich and tool bit the meat . the other pieces are to set some tension to hold till clamped in tool post . I thimk ?

On your screw , do you have a sremel tool and some of the reinforced fiber discs ? If you are careful and take your time with a steady hand you could clean the burrs up nicely .

Sort of like a McDonald Hamburger.
A little tiny bit of meat on one edge of the bun.
When assembled, it is sort of like a little hand vice. laying horizontally on top of the lathe vise.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HENRY-BOKER-GERMANY-Hand-Vise-1-3-8-jaws-x-4-1-8-gunsmith-jeweler-blacksmith-H-/110842369540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ceb85604

This is nearly as hard as the timing belts I changed over the phone.[smilie=p:

uscra112

03-19-2012, 07:35 PM

All this just because you were trying to grind a D-Bit. Wretched excess personified !

BUT, now you know what rake is !

Phil

DoctorBill

03-19-2012, 10:35 PM

uscra112 - "All this just because you were trying to grind a D-Bit."

Amazing how one thing leads to another....at 69 years of age - and this thing
isn't even of any use to grind a 'D-Bit" ! Maybe to shape the original bit....

I read LongWood's explanation of how the single tool post is assembled.
Then I had a apoplectic fit and when I woke up I had to have a Beer to clear my mind.....

Then I took the "Four-Way Tool Post" off and tried to assemble what the
ChiComms gave me in a bag. Maybe that was a Chinese Garage Sale "Grab Bag" !

Here is what the "Four-Way Tool Post" looks like off the Top Slide.
http://www.mynetimages.com/302cb0f0ca.jpg

The slanted spring-loaded pin makes for a one way ratchet of the tool post.

The big black square plate has a hole at the side which I must assume
is to engage that cylindrical pin to keep the tool post from turning.

http://www.mynetimages.com/b4a63b408c.jpg

There was a small spring and a larger spring in the hole.
I assume the smaller spring is to be used as shown above.

Now....here are two variations of what I came up with.
The large spring has me stumped - it is too long to fit in either variation.
Mayhap I could find a better spring at me local blacksmith shop...
or one hiding in my box of 'Odds & Ends".

http://www.mynetimages.com/c18349af3d.jpg

That spring has no use other than to raise the clamp when the nut or bolt
is/are loosened. Why have it there anyway ?

http://www.mynetimages.com/1eb5a1f9c3.jpg

Both would probably work - I don't see that one really needs the spring.

The Bolt and the Center Stud work to pivot the top as a clamp.
That is why that center washer is curved.
It could be adjusted to fit any sized tool.

Maybe the spring fell off a box into the bag - or was trying to escape from the Chinese !

DoctorBill

PS - FrankG - I like your idea of using a sremel (sic) tool.
I have Two of them and Harbor Freight probably sells the little fiber disks.
Does the Lead Screw just pull out of the Apron or do I need to dismantle that too ?
Gary says it would be two orders of magnitude (100x) easier to work on if it was out.
I think he is right on.

Longwood

03-19-2012, 11:34 PM

And why do you think you can't grind a 'D' bit on your lathe?

See,,, all it took was being able to see the whole picture to see how the vice went together.
I told you I would guess with what you gave us.
It looks like it will work but I am not so sure I would trust it very much until I tried it some.
It is probably for something I am not familiar with.

I put a little drawing of a cutoff tool holder that you can easily make and use in the box I am sending. I included a blade for it also.

I could not get the little box into the bigger box so I opened it and dumped the contents into the bigger box and filled it with packing material.
No since mailing a lite box.:bigsmyl2:
It is in the mail so you should have it by this weekend.

By the way,,, I like the 7" x 7" x 6" mailing (not flat rate) boxes I can order at usps on line, for free.
I always need little storage boxes.
I got ten about a week back and I just ordered 25 more to get even with them for shrinking boxes and raising the already outrageous rates..

DoctorBill

03-20-2012, 12:26 AM

I'll trust it....I actually like it.

Who was it that said I didn't need all those Crate Strap Strips ?

It took eight of them to get the tool edge to line up.

http://www.mynetimages.com/661e574c1d.jpg

Alright LongWood....I'll take the baited hook....how do you grind a D-Bit
on a Lathe ?

PLEASE...don't explain it like you explained the use of the Tool Post !
That made my head swim and my eyes to cross.

Think I'll try to find a Panic Cut-Off Switch for this Lathe.
GRIZZLY has one for $10. Maybe Harbor Freight has one.

http://www.mynetimages.com/cd41b9008c.jpg

Probably won't ever need it, but I'm getting clumsier that an elephant.

If I had an emergency, with that switch on my Lathe, if I turned it off
really fast, it would probably go past off ---> to reverse and buzz the Motor.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-20-2012, 01:19 AM

Your tests look good.
I use ground tool steels instead of a stack of junk/stuff/scrap/anything.
Like I have said before, You can grind the tip of your tools for altitude also.
You may as well start learning that part of the trade also. You will be doing it a lot. You can also grind both ends for a bigger variety of cutting tips.
Do you have a green wheel for the carbide tools? Any other wheel will only make carbide warm. I could not even put a new tip on a scribe with a carborundum or aluminum oxide wheel.

Ask your friend if you can hang around and watch. That and reading that little book that is now free on line, is how I learned what little I know.
Have you been studying the book? The info is still good.

As you learn, you will soon realize why becoming a true journeyman machinist was a 5 year apprenticeship.
There is nothing wrong with the panic switch idea. I just might check into them myself.
If your table has room to lay tools to the left of the headstock, Put something there to keep you from doing it.
I had an accident and I know of a much worse one from people leaning over a spinning piece of stock sticking out of the rear of the chuck while looking for a tool they/we, put there.
I had a bald spot on the side of my head for a while.

Longwood

03-20-2012, 05:43 PM

Here are some pics of some simple projects you could try.
The push-through one is for 45-70 bullets and the push-out one is made from a 45-70 brass for 45 caliber bullets.
I plan on replacing the short outer piece of the push-out cutter with one made with larger diameter stock to make pushing it into the harder lubes easier.

By the way, I just remembered a trick I used last time I was cutting hard lubed bullets from a pan I let get too cold.
I put one of those heating pads, for seed starter kits, under the pan and took a break while it warmed the lube a little. It worked great.

R.M.

03-21-2012, 11:18 AM

He thinks I should grind off the flat end of the Chuck Taper so that it
isn't pushed out by the tailstock ram so quickly.
That tang is there to help the arbor from turning, should the taper-lock let loose. A spinning drill chuck in a tailstock is bad news. Not all tailstocks use the key type, but if yours does, I would certainly not recommend cutting it off.
Also, be sure the arbors and spindle are perfectly clean when you slam it home.

Swede44mag

03-21-2012, 01:05 PM

HollowPoint

03-21-2012, 02:41 PM

Swede44Mag:

If you don't mind, I'll PM you the answer so as not to divert the OP any farther than it already has.

I found it to be a good tip as well when I was first told about it.

Here's the link to the exact page where I learned how to go about cutting threads on my 9x19 metal lathe.

http://www.akpilot.net/Threading%20Setup/Compound%20Setup%20For%20Threading.html

HollowPoint

DoctorBill

03-21-2012, 03:37 PM

R.M. - My Tailstock does not use the Key Slot mechanism.

http://www.mynetimages.com/6218dc460e.jpg

With that Tang on there, I am left with very little horizontal travel for my
Tailstock to move.

I think I'll paint the bench this summer when I can open the windows up
and get some air in here.
http://www.mynetimages.com/e243ee96cf.jpg

I guess I am pretty much set up for now....now to make something.
Gary wants to come over and help me remove and de-burr the Leadscrew.

I hope we don't have to take the Apron apart to do that.....

DoctorBill

uscra112

03-21-2012, 08:46 PM

Doc, you've done much too nice of a setup to get it all dirty by actually using it! :kidding:

DoctorBill

03-21-2012, 08:58 PM

Holy Metal Turnings, guys !

Give me a break !

I am grading Final Exams (40 of them) for my College Chemistry Course.

There ARE other things going on in my life than this Lathe !

I may be 69 years old, but I ain't dead yet....

All you old retired guys with nothing else to do......I'm still working.
If you don't have a job to do, you start to die.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-21-2012, 09:08 PM

Bill, Bill, Bill.
You must think we are trying to help.
Nope.
This is our chance to get even and try to drive the teacher Wako.[smilie=1:.

DoctorBill

03-22-2012, 12:22 PM

All done grading...grades submitted.

Now to prepare my Class Packet (~60 pages) for next quarter.
Then have to go get it copied.
THEN I am done and can phart around with me Lathe.

About 5 inches of snow on the ground and snowing hard.
March ain't over 'till the fat lady sings....

LongWood - you can write and spell well 'cause 'the teach' teached you good !
...in spite of yourself wanting to 'play' !

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-22-2012, 12:46 PM

Snow,,,, No thanks.
It got cold here for two days straight and I was thinking of moving farther South.
One night, it actually got below freezing.
Holy Toledo, Bat Man!

Did I tell you that I lived in Holden Washington for a few when I was in grade school.
50ft snowfall in a year could be expected.

DoctorBill

03-22-2012, 03:30 PM

I just received LongWood's "Care Package".

http://www.mynetimages.com/59d0b9f30a.jpg

A whole bunch of some type of animal feed and some tools and Aluminum buried in there.

Nice Aluminum Stock, LongWood ! The larger dia one is 2.5 inches diameter.

Thank you for the tool metal, also !

I had to sift thru the Feed Pellets pouring them into another box to
make sure I found everything.

What kind of Animal Feed is that ? For Horses ? Tastes good !
Nice diet food...

Thank you so much !

I also found your diagram.
Gary also says that one can cut Aluminum with wood saws (he told me he's used a
table saw for sheet aluminum). He said it works fine if you go slow and put paraffin
wax heavily on the cut line to lube the blade. Scary...

Now to make something.

Those small blocks of Aluminum look perfect for mold material.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-22-2012, 04:55 PM

I just received LongWood's "Care Package".

A whole bunch of some type of animal feed and some tools and Aluminum buried in there.

Nice Aluminum Stock, LongWood ! The larger dia one is 2.5 inches diameter.

Thank you for the tool metal, also !

I had to sift thru the Feed Pellets pouring them into another box to
make sure I found everything.

What kind of Animal Feed is that ? For Horses ? Tastes good !
Nice diet food...

Thank you so much !

I also found your diagram.
Gary also says that one can cut Aluminum with wood saws (he told me he's used a
table saw for sheet aluminum). He said it works fine if you go slow and put paraffin
wax heavily on the cut line to lube the blade. Scary...

Now to make something.

Those small blocks of Aluminum look perfect for mold material.

DoctorBill

Well it ain't much, and I warned you of that but it should help you get started.
I have some more of the smaller round stock, about three feet of 3" 2024 and about a foot of 3 1/2" 2024 plus I know where to get more for cheaps, so let me know if you need more.

The square blocks, came with my South Bend and I do not have a source. I have about 10 more inches and that is it. It has grown feet here and is not leaving.

Remember this, a large piece of stock is sort of like a piece of rock. It is only too big for a while. Keep whacking stuff off till it looks like you want it to. If it worked for Mic, it should work for you.

I cut lots of stuff with the band saw, yep even the 3 1/2", but that cutoff blade sure will work well on the lathe. I usually make two side by side cuts with them so the chips and the friction don't bother me so much. It wastes a little stock but it was cheap so,,,.

What can I say?
I needed Some packing material.
The stock was so small for such a huge box and I don't like mailing air in those prepaid boxes. Mite swell fill it up.

Don't eat all of the feed, it works better when you wet and dry it and use it to flux with. It smells a lot like burning wood though.
But then,,, I think you were paying me back some for the teasing.:bigsmyl2:

By the way,
I was a real pain in their rears at skool but the best teachers wrote some nice stuff in my senior annual.
Thanks for the complement on how I write. If you knew how long it takes me.:groner:[smilie=b:
I hunt and peck but get to going too fast and hitting two key at once. I may look to see if I can find a special keyboard, for us non typists, that has 3/4' square keys.

Longwood

03-22-2012, 05:08 PM

I read what you said about Gary cutting aluminum sheet.
I have cut as thick as 1/2" aluminum sheet with cheap skill saw and a straight edge and some 'C' clamps. I use a good carbide blade, put tape over any where chips could get into the smoke generator, and go slow. It works surprisingly well and makes a very clean cut.
My yard is hard packed desert dirt so it looks sort of cool from the air for a while afterwards

Longwood

03-22-2012, 05:24 PM

Check with gary to show you how to make boring bars for making bigger holes than you have drills.
Cutters for them is what the 1/8" tool steels are for. I figured you probably got some in the previous package but since I use lots of them, I decided to toss in a couple just in case.
I have probably 15 bars, and bar ends, all with nice sharp cutters already in them so I don't get slowed down when I am making something.
I also sometimes use two of the steels under bigger tools to raise them. They are ground perfectly the same so that will work well.
They look sort of homely in the photo but wipe off the wax rust proofing, and they almost look like jewelry, to machinists.

DoctorBill

03-22-2012, 11:01 PM

I 'gross' leveled my Bench today - cross wise - so the Lathe is level across the bed
by the Headstock and the Tailstock - 32 inches bed length.

Gary thinks this Lathe is too short and massive to twist along the length.

I used a Screw-Jack I had made from 4x4 pieces - and wood wedges.

http://www.mynetimages.com/34584f7e2b.jpg

Works really well and cost diddily...I'll make a second one tomorrow.

LongWood - You think my Craftsman Wood BandSaw will cut Aluminum
w/o snapping the Blade ? I can buy metal cutting blades !

I had ordered a boring bar from ENCO like one I saw in Gary's stash of tools.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=378-4008

He shows me tools when I ask, "What's that ?" as he describes things.

I use Gary as my pictorial Encyclopedia of tool stuff.

He talks and I ask....and he shows me. He is a really great teacher.

I notice that many, many guys get really pissed off if you ask a lot of questions while
they are doing something. Gary does not ! I respect him for that. Sign of a good person.

Can you take some closeup pictures of your homemade cutoff tool holder and post it here - Longwood ?

How would I make one w/o a Milling Machine ?

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-23-2012, 12:49 AM

My band saw is an old vertical cast aluminum Craftsman that has a 12" throat. It was probably made in the fifty's. I have no idea what horse power is but it has an old American made motor so it will pull a good load.
I have cut VW heads and cases in two to make two cylinder engines. I have cut several pieces of the 3" but I can't recall if I have cut the 3 1/2". I use Breakfree or WD-40 etc etc for lube and a normal wood blade. Not a wavy metal blade. Be sure to allow for crooked cuts and dressing up.
You can always remove some material on the lathe with the cutoff blade then do the remainder on the saw if it is too light duty.
Have Gary show you some cutting off tricks. I would love to watch him also. I usually try to use the lathe to cut large stuff only if it has a pretty large hole in it.
Old machinists, mechanics, welders and most other craftsmen will tell you every thing he know if you are polite and listen.
Do like the new kids of today and run off at the mouth and the old dudes will turn you off like a light switch. I run across more and more of those these days. Oh Well,,, They have no idea what they missed out on. Go home and make your thumbs sore polluting your brain

Today, a friend sold another friend a variable speed, vertical, Enko saw with a blade welder for $500.
They list for $2200 plus. I saw it first but since I own a pretty good saw now and have a key to his shop, I can drive 22 miles and use it. My plane is there so that is always a good reason to go there.

It would be a good idea to keep the steels and precision tools in a cabinet with some desiccant. I have been keeping it for years have enough to share if you need some.

uscra112

03-23-2012, 01:17 AM

Double ditto on cutting aluminum with a circular saw. (Actually I use my table saw. Have done for years and years. Carbide blade, of course. ) Not a lot different from what machine tool people call a "cold saw", which often looks like an elephantine miter saw and has power downfeed to control the rate of the cut. You don't see them much anymore because the blades were very expensive. Bandsaws are cheaper and cut a thinner kerf.

Longwood

03-23-2012, 01:53 AM

I have not cut anything thinner that .125 aluminum sheet with the Skil type saw.
When I cut thick stuff, I set the blade to maximum so it is removing as little material as possible.
Unfortunately that makes a shower of chips that takes days to get out of my hair, ears and pockets. I do think it helps prevent kick backs which could be very dangerous with the blade out so far.
Don't try this a t home children.

I have an eight foot straight edge for wall paper installers that I use and I get perfectly straight cuts with nice sharp edges.

Buckshot

03-23-2012, 03:05 AM

Strange - the rounded end cutter cut going in and cut more going out
(reversed the apron direction) and I went slow ! Why did it cut off some more
going back over what it had just cut ? Used hand crank.

DoctorBill

..............It's called a 'Spring cut'. It's because everything is made of rubber, and that includes a 48" x 240" American Pacemaker. The work can flex away from the tool, and additionally the saddle can shift a bit on the bed going in the opposite direction, even though it's riding on V ways.

So how far are you into your book on "How to run a lathe"?

................Buckshot

DoctorBill

03-23-2012, 11:29 AM

Page 19, Buckshot...it is on a CD as is the one Gary gave me.

I don't do well reading off the Computer Screen - odd, huh ?

Seems like something always happens to get me away from reading the
computer screen - plus short attention span.

I am used to BOOKS. My eyes don't do well reading anything for any period of time.
Given that bad excuse, I should "Study" - as I tell my students.

Much rather get a real book to read - very expensive. Library ?

Excuses - excuses - excuses ! Whine......

Now that you have admonished me like some Father telling his son to
get into his room and study....I shall endeavor to do so.

http://www.mynetimages.com/7c6121170a.jpg

"Aw...Do I have to" ?

DoctorBill

PS - Biggest excuse - getting past the "Jargon" of Machining.
Most sentences in the books use a language I don't understand w/o going off
and looking up a word - compound feed screw, power cross feed, compound feed,
reverse shift collar, back gears, compound slide gibs, etc.
"Figure 24 makes clear the operation of the reversing mechanism." Ha ! Right !

DoctorBill

03-23-2012, 10:20 PM

http://www.mynetimages.com/2f78a3349d.jpg

I spent an ungodly amount of time installing this Emergency Switch !

It is advertized as fitting normal electrical boxes.....lol....Chinese !

I finally got it into the electrical box by some sort of magical movements !
the screw holes are off by about 1mm (metal bracket is too long).

Anyway - it is done ! Checked it - works !

I feel better about having this - If I can get to it in an Emergency Situation...and have time !

Gary said his Boss saw a man die working on a Lathe - was wearing a tie...
Sort of broke his neck and did some other nasty stuff to him.
His Boss always wore a clip on tie after that....in Corporations, you have to wear a tie.

DoctorBill

FrankG

03-23-2012, 11:41 PM

Doc ............I dont see a pocket on the shelf ??? lol lol lol !!!!!!!!

Longwood

03-24-2012, 12:06 AM

Doc ............I dont see a pocket on the shelf ??? lol lol lol !!!!!!!!

I am starting a pool.

You pay a Buck, then pick a date on when a little silver snake crawls down into the wall socket with no cover on it.
The person that gueses closest to the actual date, wins the pool.
Better hurry and get your money in.
I am accepting PM's now.

BTW William, ,, Is that wiring job too code with extension cords?
Just thought I would ask in case the inspector is coming.

:bigsmyl2:[smilie=s::shock::veryconfu

What page are you on in the book?
When I want to read on my computer, I lean back and put my feet up and read away.
32 inch Emerson flat screen from Walmart for $248 sure makes it nice.

DoctorBill

03-24-2012, 12:15 AM

Those are 14/3 wires. What Inspector ?

Why would any problem exist with using those cords ?

That Lathe pulls less power than my four slice toaster !

Is a cover plate mandatory ? Only Hobo Spiders and a Maine Coon Cat could
get in there and if the cat does, she gets what she deserves !

Permit...permission ? You pushed one of my buttons.

I do realize that one needs to apply for a "permit" to phart anymore !

They actually want you to get a permit to change a light switch !

Permission to think, Sir ?

Permission to breath, Sir ?

Permission to be an American Citizen.....I don't live in California.

Maybe I should delete the photo and go into hiding and be afraid....

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-24-2012, 12:26 AM

PS - Biggest excuse - getting past the "Jargon" of Machining.
Most sentences in the books use a language I don't understand w/o going off
and looking up a word - compound feed screw, power cross feed, compound feed,
reverse shift collar, back gears, compound slide gibs, etc.
"Figure 24 makes clear the operation of the reversing mechanism." Ha ! Right ![/QUOTE]

You are learning a vast amount of new info and you are in a hurry.
That's normal, but you need to go at it sort of like you were getting your pilot's license.
You could crash and burn if you try to learn too much too fast.
Start chewing up that stock I sent I can get more. Make something easy or simply make different types of practice cut's. You can go as fast or slow as you wish and do what you wish. Nobody is pushing you,,,, we don't want you to get hurt or worse, discouraged.
The more you play with your new toy, the sooner you will learn how easy it really is, especially if you get a little help and advise and you have several guys here that seem to be willing and I bet there are more that would if you need them..
There is something about machinist's and guns,,,, they kind of fit together.:bigsmyl2:

Longwood

03-24-2012, 12:33 AM

[smilie=s:[smilie=s:[QUOTE=DoctorBill

Maybe I should delete the photo and go into hiding and be afraid....

DoctorBill[/QUOTE]

[smilie=l:

It will not work.
You showed too many photos.
We saw the secret door to the cave under your basement.

You had better make a run for it.

[smilie=2: [smilie=s:[smilie=s:[smilie=s:

We will watch your guns for you.

DoctorBill

03-24-2012, 01:04 AM

I am contemplating making a "Nose Pour" mold with an adjustable Pin so
that I can make longer or shorter bullets.

What was that old kind of adjustable mold we discussed way back at the beginning
of this Thread ?

I had asked if anyone had a good drawing of it.

I'll have to wade back thru all this gibberish to find it.

But that mold would make a good first project.
Has boring and threading involved - oh my !

Then a Taper Crimper for my 45-70 Trapdoor reloading....

Remember shooting ! ?

I has SNOWED here the last two days. Then melted.

I cannot wait to get out there and plow the target range with 450 grain
Lead Slugs going 1200 fps !

Except now all you'd see is a splash...and you might sink into the path
to the targets and never be seen again ! MUD.

Can't wait for the mosquitoes and Yellow Jackets and ants and Black Powder Smoke !
Sulphur and Brimstone and itchy bumps !

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-24-2012, 01:40 AM

Sorry big guy,,,, My lathe is 220V.

Water, I see it now and then if I drive a ways.
Rain, samo samo.
Some times, but not often.
We sometimes get thunder buster gully wagers that will take a car away if people get caught in one.
We got a sudden dusting of hail two days ago but it cleared and got nice again.
You want to see your bullets raise dust clouds? Come on down to the desert. I love to bust the big rocks on the hill where we shoot. Some of them are as big as a VW bus and the 500+gr 45-70 bullets sure sound neet when they pop one. The hill is a big 200 foot tall wall of rocks with all of the dirt washed or blown off, and the it sort of acts like a big amphitheater.

Longwood

03-24-2012, 02:05 AM

I am contemplating making a "Nose Pour" mold with an adjustable Pin so
that I can make longer or shorter bullets.

What was that old kind of adjustable mold we discussed way back at the beginning
of this Thread ?

DoctorBill

I may make a sprue plate with no hole that is held tight with a big headed screw like the guy on smokeless paper patching, used on the mold he made.
Replace the one with a hole on a Lee mold of a bullet I like. Then mill off the bottom of the mold until I can put the sprue plate from the top on it then try pouring them nose first. I suspect it has been tried before but I have not seen anyone talking about it here.
At first, I can make little spacers too experiment with bullet length then when I find a length I like mill what used to be the top.

Buckshot

03-24-2012, 02:25 AM

................Bill, I also do NOT like reading off the computer screen. I'd MUCH rather hold a musty book in my hands.

Your new creating/machining area is so CLEAN! Don't worry though. Pretty soon there'll be oil streaks up the wall and that plywood table top will be soaked in oil.

Don't know if you'd considered it but I would not put shelves inside that housing you have there now behind your lathe. I know, it looks like it'd be a good idea, but putting anything back there where you might be tempted to reach for it across the lathe would be a bad idea.

Don't know if I mentioned it before or not, but I have NONE, ZERO, NO cloth rags around my machine tools. Paper towels yes, cloth no. No law against it, just seems like a good idea to me.

...............Buckshot

FrankG

03-24-2012, 10:48 AM

I agree Buckshot . Just takes once , get snagged , pulled in and you have a broken wrist or worse !
Like the avatar also ! Sleeves rolled up !

DoctorBill

03-24-2012, 02:59 PM

HollowPoint - A long while back you asked what is my Lathe's lowest spindle RPM.

The ENCO Catalog lists 130 to 2000 rpm.

If I put the V-Belt in what should give the lowest rpm, it looks about like
two revolutions per second.
I can only count to ten w/o taking my shoes off.
Can only count to 21...

I don't have a tachometer.

I guess that I should use that speed for working Aluminum - yes ?

DoctorBill

HollowPoint

03-24-2012, 04:40 PM

"The ENCO Catalog lists 130 to 2000 rpm."

That's what I thought but, I guess I was hoping against hope that the new models were geared in such a way as to be able to get the RPM's down to a slower speed.

I don't have a problem with speeds ranging from 130-2000 RPM. It just makes it very difficult for me to use the threading-dial at the slowest RPM available without using another method of threading.

"I guess that I should use that speed for working Aluminum - yes ?"

My shortest answer to this would be, "I don't know." Ever since I started having problems with my Cross-Slide-Nut I've had alot of difficulty getting the kind of finish on my parts that I was able to get with my previous bench lathe. (7x10)

The instruction booklet that came with my 9x19 lathe lists the appropriate RPMs for various metals but I get the sense that these instructions are so generalized that applying them with any kind of certainty is iffy at best.

Even though I generally follow the instructions that came with my 9x19 lathe, regardless of the RPMs I'm running, I have to play around with my feed-rate till I get the kind of finish I'm wanting.

I know that there are formulas to calculate these things but, I suck at math so I'm generally stuck with the "Trial and Error" method of figuring out my feed-and-speeds. Also; I've found that the formulas that I've come across are subject to varying factors. For me, this just complicates things even further.

I wish I knew of a simple to read and simple to understand set of formulas for figuring Speed-N-Feeds for my lathe. It sure would make life easier for me.

As soon as I get that Cross-Slide-Nut replacement part finished I can get back to the project I was working on before it bit the dust. (Boat-Tailed Gas Check dies)

Trying to turn small parts like this with any kind of precision is next to impossible when you have as much back-lash on your lead-screw as I was getting. It's hard enough for a DIY novice like me to get tight tolerances even with an accurate machine.

I'm still waiting on my 8mm x 1.25 tap to arrive so I can finish up that replacement part.

HollowPoint

nanuk

03-24-2012, 11:55 PM

some of the minilathes I have seen available up here have variable speed, infinitely adjustable.

Dutchman

03-25-2012, 03:13 PM

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20project.html

MIT TechTV
http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/172-machine-shop-10

http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/circle.html

Identification Markings on Bolt Heads ASTM and SAE Standards
http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/boltid.htm

Mini-Lathe Workshop Amateur's workshop tools
http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/index-e.html

http://www.americanlap.com/how_to_page.htm

http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/index.html

http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/
Jet BD-920N 9x20 Lathe

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=9x20+lathe&oq=9x20+lathe&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&gs_l=youtube.3..0.289l2231l0l2598l10l10l0l3l3l0l17 6l904l1j6l7l0.

DoctorBill

03-25-2012, 07:52 PM

Dutchman ! Those are great links. Been checking them out. Lot of material
to study and learn from ! Thank you.

I am starting another Bullet Mold (Mould for you Limey's).

Chose an Aluminum Block and marked off where I will pre-drill and then use
my D-Bit for a 'Nose Pour' adjustable end plug mold, so I can make any
length and have a concave end for Paper Patching.

http://www.mynetimages.com/c584fe6ee6.jpg
Put a bullet on the Block to see if there is sufficient room for a 2-hole mold.

Going to make it for two bullets side-by-side where I just move the sprue plate.

I have my four-jaw chuck on the Lathe now and am centering the hole.

Maybe I should end this thread and start a new thread in the mold section.

Then again, maybe I should just end it all here. I think that is enough for now.

I don't need to put every new thing I learn in this forum - starting to get boring.

Edited in Later - One ongoing problem - the "Tailstock Clamping Plate" (TCP) hanging on the
long bolt that tightens and holds the Tailstock tight, swings like a pendulum when loosened
to move the tailstock.
Consequently, the clamp gets flipped to one side or the other and jams further movement
of the Tailstock. I have to put my fingers underneath and hold it centered in order to move
the Tailstock.
THUS ! I will take the Tailstock off and drill two holes on either side of the 'TCP',
add two screws so that it cannot swing from side to side (stays centered).
Maybe I could Gorilla Glue** wood blocks under there instead of drilling and tapping....
I can always drill and tap later.

http://www.mynetimages.com/26cd71544f.jpg

Here I just glued the wood blocks to inhibit the Clamping Block Swinging.
http://www.mynetimages.com/e25c403b34.jpg

DoctorBill

** - Gorilla Glue, unlike Epoxy, stays slightly Flexible and adheres to almost everything
with a tenacity I have never before seen !
Epoxy is good but tends to shatter under impact and unless it contains some solid powder
(like Aluminum powder or graphite) tends to soften with age.
It also will 'let go' of polished or plastic surfaces where PolyUrethane (Gorilla) Glue stays on !

Gorilla Glue is Urethane Monomer that polymerizes to a plastic (PolyUrethane) as does
Epoxy (which is a two part mixture), except that it foams and is catalyzed by water
and/or Ultra Violet Light. I bought Elmer's Ultimate High Performance Glue (costs less).
Buy a small bottle unless you use it up fast - tends to harden up in the bottle (water vapor).
Adhesives are a fascinating science - wish I'd of gone into that instead !

BTW - You do understand what he means ?
http://www.mynetimages.com/394ef3ddab_th.jpg (http://www.mynetimages.com/viewimage/394ef3ddab) <-- Thumbnail.

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-26-2012, 04:07 PM

Aw, what the Heck....

Drilled ever large holes until just under the D-Bit diameter

http://www.mynetimages.com/cdbe4b6251.jpg

Now comes the D-Bit....

http://www.mynetimages.com/2f4c4fc5d3.jpg

Running at 130 rpm. Any faster and the off balance 4 Jaw Chuck with the Aluminum Block makes the bench rattle.

Nice ! Having fun...a bit nervous, though.

Added in Later - Something I did not consider....symmetry !
What is true on one side is not true on the opposite side if a hole is not cut in the center !

The Sprue Plate does not work as marked out on the opposite side.
Will have to reset where the Sprue Plate goes now.

No big magila - Just something I did not consider. Live and learn....

http://www.mynetimages.com/19d57f4bb3.jpg

A lesson to consider. SYMMETRY

Next Lesson - Don't Pre-Drill in too far for a 'nose pour' mold...

http://www.mynetimages.com/f578e4b1ce.jpg

Interesting...I have a box of 500 Semi-Wadcutter Slugs for a 45 ACP that look
just like that on the tip.

You see ! This is what I get for being in a hurry to play with my new toy !

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-26-2012, 06:06 PM

Things are looking good.

In order to get the sprue plate exactly over the hole, cast a bullet from the big end and leave a puddle on the base that you can machine off except for a little tip which you can use for getting the center of the sprue cutter hole perfectly centered with the bullet base..
Getting two sprue holes and two cavities, then the sprue plate hinge point hole, lined up perfectly for a new machinist, is not so easy with the tools you have.

I hate to do this,,,KISYSR.

It is a polite way of saying KISS,,, "Keep it simple you silly rabbit".

I would stick with one hole per mold or per side.

PS,
I would have saved the square stock for two piece, grease groove molds.

You can sometimes make people think your mistakes are on purpose.
You can turn the block over, and machine a new cavity of a different shape and or size. The two holed plates may make that simpler.
If you use a bolt with a short shoulder and a locking set screw , changing a sprue cutter from one side of a mold and back is no big deal and chances are, the first attempts will produce bullets you do not particularly care fore.

DoctorBill

03-26-2012, 06:42 PM

You know...I don't feel so bad about this SNAFU !

If I get a Semi-WadCutter bullet out of this, that's not bad.

"KISS" - funny thing - I thought it was simple !

Now - A BIG Request !

Show us pictures of your screw-up fellows !

Let it all hang out like I'm doing - don't hide them in a box behind the scrap metal barrel !

All you Drugstore Machinists and Man-Cave Neanderthals must have made
some REAL Doozy's when you started learning the Lathe !

Anyway - tomorrow is another day and I have the other side of that
Aluminum Block.

Who said, "We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents."

Turn garbage into a planting pot...

DoctorBill

HollowPoint

03-26-2012, 07:00 PM

"Show us pictures of your screw-up fellows !"

Just my screw-ups alone would require additional band-width to be added to this
website.

Most of my projects progress through the Trial and Error method of machining. If I were a trained machinist rather than a Learn As You Go Do-It-Yourselfer, I might get more projects done right the first time.

As it is, "Screw-Ups" are the order of the day.

HollowPoint

DoctorBill

03-26-2012, 07:37 PM

Come on ! Post those screw-ups !

We need some humor on this Forum.

Besides - to layman, your screw-ups would look like high quality Swiss Watch Works.

This ought to be fun - to see some of our screw-ups on display.

You guys aren't so proud as to be hiding them....no ?

Put some of the "Good Ones" up here.

. . . . . . . . . - Screw-Up No. One - . . . . . . .

http://www.mynetimages.com/4c9458b87e.jpg

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-26-2012, 08:45 PM

How Dast Thou?
Curb your tongue Knave!
I do not make screw-ups.
I sometimes make, odd looking stock for future parts, but not screw-ups.

My lathe has plenty of marks from BooBoo's.
It did not look, "Oh so Pretty", for very long.

Longwood

03-26-2012, 08:55 PM

Remember the bench and shooting fixture I mentioned that I was making?
I think I am set to shoot with a healing Clavicle now.

DoctorBill

03-26-2012, 09:04 PM

Longwood - Now how does that work ?

You load the rifle, put it in the contraption, then sit down and look down the
barrel, then pull the trigger.

But you don't hold the rifle...like climbing a mountain by going up the
elevator inside it or being taken to the top in a helicopter.

Why not have a friend shoot it for you ?

Me for instance.

You can watch and criticize...

Just being a butt ! Couldn't stop myself.

DoctorBill

PS - as to "Boo Boo's" - I just hope I never run the Carriage into the spinning Chuck !
Or leave the Chuck Wrench in the Chuck and then turn the Lathe on....
Or try threading the Chuck by forgetting to flip the Half-Nut lever...

Longwood

03-26-2012, 09:17 PM

DoctorBill

03-26-2012, 10:07 PM

Some Ideas....

Right away, I got tired of trying to adjust that 4 Jaw Chuck with the huge
Key that came with it. The cross handle kept hitting things.

So - I made a wood "ScrewDriver" handle to do quick adjustments before
using the 'Big Guy' to tighten it.

Then - I cut a piece of corner stock for a Safety Stop Bar to keep from
inadvertently (means Stupidly) running the Carriage into the spinning Chuck.

http://www.mynetimages.com/81660b106d.jpg

I suppose ya'll already came up with these things....

DoctorBill

LongWood - Your "Friends can't shoot" ? What ? You mean you have no friends....
..or do you live in New York ? Wait - New Yorkers routinely shoot - at least the crooks do.

Longwood

03-27-2012, 03:23 AM

I was wondering how long the 4 jar would be on the lathe.
Most of them just collect dust.

Wood???:shock::roll:

:holysheep

REAL machinists, use only metal,

I made my chuck wrench 10" long with a 8" cross using a 3/8" socket set extension.
It is Long enough to work with and heavy enough to turn the chuck and fall onto the floor. if I accidentally leave it in the chuck. I don't even know if the little nearly worthless original *** is still here.

I need to test the bullets from the molds I made.
My friends are mostly point, and shoot, guys that never really learned to shoot well at long range.

DoctorBill

03-27-2012, 08:33 PM

http://www.mynetimages.com/74541139fc.jpg....POIFECT ! http://www.mynetimages.com/fbf1b78e33.jpg
Yooo Wooo Wooo Wooo !

http://www.mynetimages.com/ced56b1177.jpg

Got to within about 1 - 2 mm of the end of the block and finished turning it on the Drill Press
with hand rotation of the chuck (for depth control).

Just 0.001" further and the end flat gets bigger, fast !

This has, to me, the Perfect Shape that I wanted a long time ago.

Once I make the end "Pin" with a convex end (to make a concave bullet
end for Paper Patching), I will be a happy BP Cartridge shooter.

Different pins for different length bullets.

By setting the Mold on a ceramic plate (one small Kitchen Tile), one can mold
bullets w/o all the clamps and attached do-dads...Takes longer, but then I have
all the time in the world...

DoctorBill

nanuk

03-27-2012, 09:00 PM

DrB: do some research on how to mount a plate to clamp onto your tailstock (quill?), then you can set a dial indicator onto the tailstock and indicate off the plate, for better depth control.

I''m sure someone here has an example to refer you to.

DoctorBill

03-27-2012, 09:14 PM

Yes...I can try to set that up.

I'm at the stage where I rely on wrapping Tape around the Drill or D-Bit to tell
me when to stop.
I had set the depth just short on purpose so I wouldn't over run the end of the block.

The scale on my TailStock Ram - I don't trust it. Hard to see and very crude.

That's just my ignorance at this stage of my experience.

I'll get there...then die of old age !

"All those moments will be lost in time...like tears in the rain."
Roy in Blade Runner

Gary, my machinist friend, does all that - stands there and does the calculations in
his head, then asks, "Right ?"

I have to laugh. "Right !" I tell him and grin at him.

DoctorBill

PS - My hands are getting all black lines in the finger prints that doesn't wash out.
Just like Gary's hands - only his look permanently stained.
What is that from - finely ground metal going into one's pores ?

Longwood

03-27-2012, 10:22 PM

It's called "Work" Bill.:kidding:

Dish washing.
The perfect hand cleaning method.:groner:
But what ever you do, don't let the boss of the house, find that out.

I use the magnetic, quick release, base for my dial indicators, they can be had for pretty cheap now.
I mount them all over the place. Sometimes two at a time.
I work with 'THEM' not the scales on the lathe.

DoctorBill

03-27-2012, 11:55 PM

Time for my Chemistry Lecture on Greasy Hand Cleaning.

When you work on engines, especially, you get black, oily, greasy dirt
into your DNA !

http://www.mynetimages.com/dc982b9004.jpg

So...Hand Lotion is an Emulsion of Oil in Water. Oil mixes with oil.

If you rub (hard) a lot of Cheap Hand Lotion all over your dirty hands,
then wipe them off with paper towels (no water), the grease and oils and
dirt come off on the Paper Towels leaving your hands soft and nice smelling
and very clean.

No need for water and soap at all !

The women like that.

Your Macho male friends will make fun of you.
But you don't care because you know who you are and don't need to
impress your large testicled friends.

RIGHT ? !

TRY IT SOMETIME !

FWIW...

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-28-2012, 12:20 AM

You don't know dirty hands until you have worked as a welder, worked in lamp black, overhauled a diesel engine, or machined cast iron all day.

A long sleeved white shirt will get black around the cuffs many showers later.

I have looked at my hands with a microscope when they were really bad and the skin had thousands of small cracks and the bottom of the cracks were new pink skin that is perfectly clean but the sides of the cracks in the hard calloused skin, (the part where soap, hand cleaner or brush bristles will not get at) had black nasty crud on them.

Before a wedding or such,,,, Dishes.
One of my least favorite things to do.

DoctorBill

03-28-2012, 01:29 AM

Longwood

03-28-2012, 05:02 AM

FrankG

03-28-2012, 09:56 AM

I have a stool by mine and sit when ever I can ! One of the little roll around carts are close with needed tooling for project to get what is needed without getting up too .
And the beer is save until project is done :)

Longwood

03-28-2012, 01:07 PM

I have built lots of 42" work benches on the job and at my residences..
My work benches here are all 42" .
I am not certain, but I believe it may be a standard since almost every bench I ever measured was the same.
My little lathe-mill sits on a 42" heavy steel cabinet.
I usually take a Vicodin or two Ibuprofen before I begin a job or as soon as I feel my back beginning to hurt which is usually very shortly.
Back pain that is beyond help from the first pain killers is what usually tells me when I need to stop, take another dose, kick back, and read the post's on here...

Longwood

03-28-2012, 01:15 PM

One other thing about using a Lathe - it gets to one's back !

Gary complains about his back hurting from doing machining.

I didn't understand about just standing there for hours bending over until
I did it.

He told me to get a stool, but I am moving about so much that it would be pointless.

It's not like wood working where you bend, move, squat, stoop and
drink beer all day....

DoctorBill

I believe it all about the slight lean.
Most of my projects are small, work bench, projects, and they all seem to make my back sore in a hurry.
Washing dishes is about the worst. I have to stand in a goofy spraddle legged stance with my feet nearly three feet apart to get down where my back is straight.
When I cast with a bottom pour, I put it on a tall bench and sit low so I do minimal leaning. I find that casting at about shoulder level is most comfortable and I can see what is going on better.

uscra112

03-28-2012, 01:57 PM

Gary said his Boss saw a man die working on a Lathe - was wearing a tie... Sort of broke his neck and did some other nasty stuff to him. His Boss always wore a clip on tie after that....in Corporations, you have to wear a tie. DoctorBill

Not in the auto biz. That was one of the few positives about doing business there - nobody who might ever have a reason to be on a a shop floor ever wore a tie. Even a plant visitor would be required to remove his tie and leave it at the guardhouse before they would let him in. Long hair, jewelry, (except wedding rings), and loose clothing were also prohibited. I often showed up for meetings with plant managers wearing a sport jacket, clean dungarees and an open shirt. A guy who showed up looking like a stuffed peacock would be considered cheechako and in need of some "edumacation".

It's not only OK to be afraid of machine tools, it's a survival trait. Maybe one reason I still have all my body parts, after 40+ years of hand-to-hand combat with them.

DoctorBill

03-28-2012, 05:08 PM

http://www.mynetimages.com/0f1358b1d8.jpg

The 'Convex End Plug' is of 7/16ths Drill Rod - same thing the D-Bit is made from.

Just finished it. Variable Length Nose Pour Concave End Paper Patch Bullet.

Now to make some bullets...should be ~500 gr more or less.

I'm going to 'try' pouring the bullet with the mold block sitting on the thin Aluminum
block, which sets on a ceramic tile, then cut off the sprue and see if plug & Bullet drop
out the other end. If lucky, there will be no 'flash'.

I can heat the Mold and Aluminum Block with a Propane Torch.

Added Later - ~ 475 gr. Back to the Honing Process - came out hard.

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

03-28-2012, 09:58 PM

Honing the Cavity. The D-Bit made the top end larger than the bottom end !
Very hard to get out - so I'm opening up the bottom end with honing.

I forgot what a PITA this process is....

http://www.mynetimages.com/9de4298cf3.jpg

The toothpaste works the best.

Mostly in and out while rotating the mold so as to keep the hole circular.

I did not go out and buy valve or cylinder wall polishing agent...

Obtained this stuff, but it seems like crayon, not a water soluble grit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-buffing-kit-43657.html

Do you have to dissolve it in Mineral Spirits ?

If this works out, the bullet will be ~ 475 gr.

Probably would work out better in my Martini-Henry 577-450 due to length.

DoctorBill

Longwood

03-28-2012, 11:17 PM

The stuff from harbor freight is rouge. It is about 5600 grit finer than what lapping compound is.
After you get something smooth too shiny with fine grit paper or lapping compound, then you can use the rouge to polish it to a mirror finish.
You are not laping by han d are you?
Don't you have a machine, that spins things for accurate lapping etc. now?

longbow

03-29-2012, 12:29 AM

DoctorBill:

I use valve lapping compound of about 400 grit and it has worked on iron, steel, bronze and aluminum moulds so far. It is a bit aggressive on aluminum but if you are careful it works fine. I opened up my NOE 0.314" x 129 gr. by 0.002" with it. The surface finish is not as good as NOE's after but I didn't have anything finer at the time. I shoul dhave finished with 600 or 1000 grit.

The mould casts perfectly now at 0.316". No criticism of NOE, the mould was supposed to cast at 0.314" which it did but I needed 0.316" for a sloppy Lee Enfield.

I would not recommend lapping on your lathe though. If you get that grit onto the ways or into the works it will cause you grief. I lap by hand or using an electric drill depending on circumstances with mould held in a vice. For push out moulds I usually use a cast slug coated in lapping compound and hand drill pushing in and out while rotating at moderate speed. You can put a very slight taper in the cavity which should help your ejection since you don't have an "ejector".

Valve lapping compound will remove aluminum at an alarming rate if you go hard but it makes short work of lapping a mould ~ much quicker than toothpaste!

Longbow

DoctorBill

03-29-2012, 01:02 AM

What is the big hurry ?

I used Toothpaste (letting it dry out a bit helps) and the mold drops bullets
like a woman drops money at the Mall Sale.

I figured that I wouldn't get all these comments about buying Lapping Compound
if I said I didn't buy any....right !

I like doing it by hand - like the watchmakers in Switzerland.

You guys go off and use Lapping Compound and drills and Lathes....
if you want to

My end plug does not come off the bullet easily. I now see why most all
PP Bullets have just a curved in end.

That would release easily - no edges to adhere to the lead....damn !

Maybe I just need to polish it.

What's next ?

Maybe a split open mold like a LEE or RCBS Mold.

Or the Taper Crimper for my 45-70 PP Reloading....That would involve
threading which I have a terrible dread of.

Gary says it is easy, but it scares the Black Powder out of me...
coordination, timing and thinking. Arrrrg !

DoctorBill

MBTcustom

03-29-2012, 06:59 AM

You do it 1000 times and its like falling off a log. I just taught a guy how to do a 1/2-28 internal thread last night. It's all about muscle memory. Once you do it just a few times you'll always have it like riding a bike.
Also, I want to complain about this paper patch mold thread being misplaced in the special projects section!:kidding:
It was always about the PP mold and how to make it and its a shame it was moved to a obscure place where someone looking to make a PP mold would never think to look. Oh well.
Congratulations on your purchase! Just keep running the thing and you will get your feet under you. Its looking good so far!

DoctorBill

03-29-2012, 11:01 AM

This thread was moved here because just two guys whined.

You know who it was. Just go back thru the thread.

I have yet to buy (or somehow make) a 'Parting Tool Holder' and obtain
a holder for threading bits.

As Gary and some of you told me, this Lathe is a money pit.

I believe I have the PP Bullet Mold nearly completed.

The last problem is the variable depth end plug. It sticks to the bullet.

However, as I now have it, it is a small nubbin and if I were to attach it
to a handle, I could pull it out by hand.

A matter of design.

Instead of just copying a design, I have been pharting around trying this
and that - learning what works and doesn't work.

"Rediscovering the wheel" as my old Boss used to call it.

That may be called a waste of time by some, but it is fun doing sometimes.
Maybe improvements come out of it - who knows ?

If this @&%#! &%@# rain would stop, I could go shooting and see what
these bullets act like !

DoctorBill

Wayne Smith

03-29-2012, 12:01 PM

I have been keeping up with this thread in both locations for some time until recently. Doc, going back to your emergency button I have one suggestion. I would want it some place I could hit with my knee, not in a location that I can only hit with a hand. When needed I may or may not have a hand available, and I don't think you want to risk your forehead! I also don't think I would want it over a spinning work piece.

MBTcustom

03-29-2012, 01:20 PM

I have read the whole thread. I have been following it on and off since you started it, so I know who the persons in question are.
For what it's worth, I think it was extremely poor form for them to press the issue so strongly right when there was so much interest. It probably brought a lot of attention to "Their section" and they took the opportunity to kick a fellow in the teeth in front of so many viewers. I have run across this nose up in the air attitude amongst BP shooters before.
Its wrong, and its a discredit to the forum.
I have no desire to engage in any conversation in BP-PP section because these two will jump on anybody who isn't just like them, doing things their way, asking their kind of questions.
Am I mad about it? You dang right I am. Its not the attitude that this forum was based on and operates on.
Thats OK, though, what goes around comes around. You would think that folks would try to remain on the pleasant side of those of us with the machinery that makes all of this possible.

DoctorBill

03-29-2012, 01:39 PM

WHERE can one find grinding medium of selected grits ?

LongBow talks of '400 grit Lapping Compound'.

I can't find anything locally in Auto Stores except the normal 120 grit stuff - even
then few stores carry it. I suppose I'm not done making molds....

I wonder if Jewelry/Craft Stores carry some ?

In Spokane...very parochial town - you have to special order nearly everything !

But then I'm not living in LA or New York !

DoctorBill

PS - EXACTLY ! Right on the mark !
"I have no desire to engage in any conversation in BP-PP section because these two will jump
on anybody who isn't just like them, doing things their way, asking their kind of questions."
...Goodsteel

I have a long time BP Shooting Friend who competes and wins the 1,000m BP Shoots and he
will not go on Shooting Forums any more because of Honchos like them. Trouble makers.

Forums lose people because those belligerent, disputatious guys ruin it for everyone else.
The Moderators could stop that garbage.

FrankG

03-29-2012, 02:00 PM

Look in industrial suppliers in yellow pages. Call machine shops , welding suppliers .

Threading bit is nothing more than a flat ground 60 deg 'V' with clearance ground on the sides of HSS bit
Cut off /parting tool can be ground from same type bit also .

oneokie

03-29-2012, 02:02 PM

Brownells? Grainger? Fastenal? Any industrial supply businesses in Spokane?

ETA: Lapidary(sp) supply places.

MBTcustom

03-29-2012, 03:44 PM

It would probably be best to order it online. Look up "Clover leaf". Good stuff, but I like the diamond compounds better for lapping steel. The 600 grit works pretty fast on aluminum. The other day I lapped some 2"X2" X 1/4" aluminum plates flat within .0001 with a true flat steel surface and 600 grit clover leaf. The pieces were trying to "wring" together just sitting on top of one another. Pretty amazing.

Longwood

03-29-2012, 04:33 PM

Brownells? Grainger? Fastenal? Any industrial supply businesses in Spokane?

ETA: Lapidary(sp) supply places.

Awwwww,,,,
I wanted to be #400.
Well,,,,., there is always #500 to look for.

Lapidary
Correct, ,,,,, Mozilla check the spelling automatically and no red underline.

Thanks again Mozilla for writing a much better search engine,

Longwood

03-29-2012, 04:56 PM

I would try McMaster Carr, MSC Direct, Grainger, ebay,

I use a lot of the fine wet and dry paper that the body shop supplier sells.
I don't use it often but when I need it, it is very handy stuff. I advise anyone who has machining, lapping, polishing ambitions to investigate.
I have 220, 320, 400, 600 and 1500 grit paper, from them, and one inch wide 320, 220, 180, grit cloth that I got from Harbor Freight but it is nearly garbage an d the grit will not stay put very well so I buy it in the big rolls. I often get several grits of flat emery cloth when I go there also.

I have used the paper and good arkansas stones with a small granite slab I got from a stone counter top guy for free, to do many trigger jobs and soooo many other jobs that required extremely precise work..

I keep it all within easy reach of the lathe and sometime I get piles of pieces of paper and emery cloth laying around by the time I am finished with a job.

Longwood

03-29-2012, 05:16 PM

DoctorBill:

I would not recommend lapping on your lathe though. If you get that grit onto the ways or into the works it will cause you grief. I lap by hand or using an electric drill -

Longbow

I did two molds a couple of weeks ago.
I got compound on the molds, the laps and a rag.
I grind stuff on my lathe a lot.
I often weld on my lathe.
You guessed, my lathe sometimes makes things bigger too.
I've done spray or mig welding, then finish grinding, on at least 4 lathes that big companies, that I was working for at the time, owned.
Protect the lathe bearings from arcing is the only difficult issue to deal with. A rotatable mercury ground is quite easy to make.

Longwood

03-29-2012, 05:35 PM

I did a bit of jewelry making from jet engine parts when I was in the military.
The parts were made form Inconell and was very difficult to machine and to make shine.
The most important thing I learned about polishing is as you go,, more and more material has to be removed to get rid of scratches.
One small scratch in a otherwise shiny object means lots and lots of metal removal. I often go back to the grit that caused it and and start anew.

Begin with a good working grit then progress too smaller and smaller grits but not before there is no sign of the deeper scratches caused by the previous grit. None,,, not one....
It seems like wasted effort but it actually saves a heck of a lot of time.

By the way.
I still have a Inconell ring that I made in about 1962 that shines like a new nickle.

longbow

03-29-2012, 09:17 PM

DoctorBill:

This thread was moved for the reasons you mentioned but... you now have a paper patch boolit mould and will be casting and patching so you can move that part back as you report results of paper patching and shooting paper patched boolits. That way, as Goodsteel mentions, anyone wanting to follow in your footsteps will have the opportunity if you provide a link back here.

I think it has been a good read and am glad to see you have had success.

Now it is time to wrap, load and shoot!

Longbow

MBTcustom

03-29-2012, 11:26 PM

Now it is time to wrap, load and shoot!
Indeed! Its been a heck of a read, and you must be in the running for the most expensive boolit mold ever bought or made on cast boolits!
Don't hold back on the photos once you start burning powder, I want to see some holes!

DoctorBill

03-30-2012, 01:13 AM

Is it the most expensive bullet mold ever made ?

If you think of it like that - yes.

But for $1,000, I can get maybe 5 to 7 expensive molds and then that's it !

For the $1,000 I paid for the Lathe, I can make tens of molds plus almost
ANYTHING else, too. No limit.

Plus, I can have a lot of fun screwing around.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day.
Teach him how to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."

But - no one has to justify what he does for a hobby.

Unless he does something Illegal or Immoral or Unethical.

As to Grinding media - I went to a Lapidary Shop today and got a pound of
"Aluminum Oxide Pre-Polish" for $5.75 and about one ounce of
#600 Grit Lapidary Grinding Media (Carborundum?) for free (Sample).

http://www.mynetimages.com/3ee68b0839.jpg

The 600 grit is also about $6 / lb if it works out.

I will test it out.

If TOOTHPASTE worked for me, I am sure the above stuff will do what I need !

Also, one can buy grinding medium for making astronomical Telescope Mirrors.
http://www.willbell.com/atmsupplies/atm_supplies.htm scroll down thru this site !
http://www.osabrasives.com/, http://www.gotgrit.com/

I did not want to turn this Honing / Lapping into a Big Magila !

Thank you gentlemen for your help !

It is raining outside, here, like the proverbial Cow Pissing on a Flat Rock....

I don't think I'll be shooting for a while (just shooting my mouth off).

DoctorBill

"Shrink the State
End the Fed
Balance the budget
Make a profit
Leave an inheritance"

The Democrat Party will have none of the above.
To them it is Heresy ! Socialism does not allow those things.

Longwood

03-30-2012, 01:43 AM

Screwing around????
I thought you were not making threads yet.

8-)
A gang of us is gathering to shoot tomorrow.:roll:
wundermap.com says it will be Clear and Sunny, 72, wind at 5 mph

I am down to only a hundred 45 Long Colt rounds.
They look real lonely.
Today, I figured out how to get a set of Lee 45 Long Colt dies to work with cast bullets.
I could make drawings and send to people and hope I got some help, and maybe some expensive parts in a month or two, or,,,,
I have to make two fairly simple parts if I can use some of the parts from my Hornady 45-70 dies, if not I will have to make maybe two more. They are even simpler to make internal die parts so time will tell.

Did I ever tell you that I am glad I have the lathe?

Longwood

03-30-2012, 01:59 AM

[QUOTE=DoctorBill;1654225]

The 600 grit is also about $6 / lb if it works out.

I will test it out.

If TOOTHPASTE worked for me, I am sure the above stuff will do what I need !

My lapping compound will separate if left in a hot area.
I looks like the binding/mixing agent, may be bee wax and Vaseline.

I would sure think you can make some excellent compound with the aluminum oxide.

What ever you do, make sure you get every single particle of a larger grit off of and away from the project before using a finer grit.
One stray gradual, can mess up a lot of work in a big hurry.

MBTcustom

03-30-2012, 06:51 AM

Wow! did you see what that site was selling beeswax for? $17 per lb. ! somebody ought to tell those poor scope builders to swing by castboolits and talk to RandyRat eh?

Buckshot

03-31-2012, 03:19 AM

...............DoctorBill, what's nice (or CAN be for unhardened steel) about carbide abrasive is that the carbide is friable. It fractures and breaks down finer and finer with use. Naturally for non-ferrous metals it's pretty aggresive at first depending on the grit you start with. So until you have it knocked, the finer the better. Depending upon how much you need to remove, from that aluminum mould cavity even that 600 might be a tad quick cutting.

I see you have the Enco catalog ;-) If you're not already, get on their E-List. They don't have as many as they used to but they still have free shipping, percentages off, or BOTH on occassion. What I do is to add stuff to my shopping cart over time. That way when they have one of thier specials all I have to do is pick the items off my cart I need (or can afford) to meet their requirements and the order is ready to go. One reason I have defaulted to that method is sometimes they'll something like 20% off AND free shipping for only a $99 order instead of a $199 order, and it might only be good until midnight.

...................Buckshot

carbine

03-31-2012, 11:24 AM

My hat is off to all of you!

DoctorBill

03-31-2012, 05:25 PM

I think I am getting the hang of this Instrument !

I had screwed up a Chuck Taper by cutting off too much of the flat portion
because my Tailstock Ram uses the Flat ended Tapers. I went too far !

I had to cut some off because the Taper was being ejected at about the 1/2 inch mark
on the Ram - didn't appreciate that. Only have 1.5 inch travel on my RAM.

So I asked Gary, my machinist Guru, if I could drill and tap the end of the taper
for an adjustable bolt to eject the Taper where I wanted it ejected.

Ya, no sweat, put it in the Chuck and use the Steady Rest to control where
the Taper End goes.

So I dood it !

http://www.mynetimages.com/98378bf940.jpg

http://www.mynetimages.com/a158884297.jpg

http://www.mynetimages.com/de2e1f0c0a.jpg

Now the Taper is ejected just as the Ram comes to the end of it's inward
traverse - just exactly where I want it to...

Has anyone ever modified a small Digital Caliper to his Tailstock so that he can accurately
and conveniently read out how far the Ram is traversing ?

This is nothing more than a Digital Caliper Body adapted to the Tailstock & RAM...
a modified idea that nanuck posted here a while back where he used a DIAL indicator.

http://www.mynetimages.com/3d1feef842.jpg

Harbor Freight sells them for less than $10 !
http://www.mynetimages.com/7414e329b8.jpg

They also sell a 4 inch one - my Tailstock 'Block' measures only 5 inches long.

DoctorBill

MBTcustom

03-31-2012, 07:37 PM

I am just so married up with the habit of using a 2" travel indicator on a mighty-mag base and a collar on the quill. I like having the option of grabbing the indicator off and snapping it on the ways for to indicate the Z motion with the same tool. Multipurpose. Also, I like having the top of my tail-stock clear so that I can set my cutting oil can/coolant bottle there.
But if that do-dad floats your boat, go for it! It certainly is cheap enough to try, and if you use double sided foam tape, you wont have to drill into your tailstock.
I thought I would mention that there are a lot of on-board DROs like that for sale on e-bay. Not near as cheap as that set of calipers, but certainly less than $60.
I guess I'm old-school, I like dials and I trust them to be more accurate than all but the very best DRO. You see, I can see that needle as it goes from one line to another, as well as everything in between but with a DRO you only see the thousandth of an inch that it decides to show you, but you have no idea how close or far it is from that digit. However, the quill is definitely the axis I would mind least having one of those DROs on.

Buckshot

04-01-2012, 02:15 AM

...............Be carefull of, or check the caliper out before buying it. They have a couple SKU's for 6" elec calipers where the display defaults to .000" when turned on. This is regardless of WHERE it's located on the rack. I bought 2 of'em a couple years ago (not being aware of this factoid) so I'd have one on the workbench and one to give my neighbor. I don't know how he's doing with his (and am afraid to ask) but after about a week I tossed my $9 one in the trash.

................Buckshot

DoctorBill

04-01-2012, 01:52 PM

Lapidary white "Pre-Polish" mixed about 50:50 with hand lotion makes a
nice fluid paste for honing the Aluminum Mold.

Tried Vaseline, but that is oily whereas the Hand Lotion is less so.

Anyway - just thought I'd FYI everyone.

Try it.

DoctorBill

Ordered this... from e-bay yesterday.
http://www.mynetimages.com/b77f9cf70e.jpg

DoctorBill

04-02-2012, 07:34 PM

OMG ! Things are working out !

After some 'Honing' of the mold, suddenly the bullets fall out faster than
BHO's promises fall by the wayside !

They suddenly look much better....NICE !

http://www.mynetimages.com/f40daaf38a.jpg

409 grain with some Flash around the base - can cut off with a razor blade.
1.12 inches long 0.439 caliber cupped base made for paper patching and shooting in a 45-70 Trapdoor.
Lead never touches the rifling.

The Mold has two parts - the normal top - and - a flat bottom with a Steel
plug threaded to the bottom plate via a screw thru both.

http://www.mynetimages.com/60de6bac0c.jpg

http://www.mynetimages.com/ea619336e1.jpg

I can flip it over, switch the Sprue Cutter to that side and make a different bullet.
A Twofer...

The Whole thing sits on a ceramic plate (insulation) to keep the mold hot.

http://www.mynetimages.com/7c059b8fd4.jpg

The Plug and mold were candled to prevent sticking to the plug.

Lift off the Top, cut the sprue and rotate the mold to drop the bullet.

http://www.mynetimages.com/81d372ad8c.jpg

I was wondering if this would ever work well...all things come to those who wait.

DoctorBill

DoctorBill

04-02-2012, 10:36 PM

OK Lathers....how could I quickly mount these bullets into a Lathe without
damaging the bullet so that I could dress the back end ?

I cannot afford Collets, so what can I fabricate to firmly hold the bullet tip inward
to cut the back end perfectly square ?

Was thinking some kind of thick pasteboard cylinder thing to keep the Chuck jaws
from biting into the bullet...

DoctorBill

MBTcustom

04-03-2012, 12:55 AM

Make some sacrificial aluminum jaws for the chuck.
use your D bit to cut the exact same cavity into the jaws.
Using this method you can get a very strong hold, while not damaging the boolit in any way.
That's the only way I can think of right off the top of my head.
In the aerospace industry, there are many times I have to hold something fragile and get a good solid cut on the lathe. This is the method I have used over and over again with outstanding results every time.

DoctorBill

04-03-2012, 06:27 PM

Just for the Heck of it, I placed a bullet into my 3 jaw chuck and barely
tightened the jaws.

Then I took off the V-Belt and hand turned the chuck with a rounded cutting
tool in the Toolpost and cut off any flash and dressed several bullet's behinds.

Not a single mark on the bullet from the Chuck Jaws !

Was thinking of putting a couple layers of Masking Tape on the Chuck
Jaw's holding surface to protect the bullet - didn't need it !

You need to just barely hold the bullet from turning.

Now I have a nice round nose and a nice semi-wadcutter paper patch bullet.

The weather is off and on rain/wind/hail.

Soon.....Black Powder Smoke will fill my lungs. Aaaah. Springtime !

DoctorBill

PS - Could one make a hydraulic swaging apparatus on a Lathe ?

Would it be dangerous to use Hydraulics ? A 1/2 ton Arbor Press
wouldn't be enough pressure - would it ? For Wheel Weight Metal...

Maybe use a small Bottle Jack for a Press ?

MBTcustom

04-03-2012, 10:11 PM

I wouldn't mount such an apparatus to the lathe itself, if thats what you are thinking! No way in heck. But if you are asking if you can use your lathe to make a hydraulic swaging press thats a totally different story! Matter of fact, I have seen it done before.

DoctorBill

04-03-2012, 11:28 PM

I mean, can I make the high pressure steel Dies, on my Lathe, to make
bullets by the swaging process ?

I would presume so.

The problem is - how much pressure would it take to pressure form a bullet from
Wheel Weight Metal ?

Is an Arbor Press too little force ? What kind of force would be required ?

I would, most likely, be getting into some sophisticated stuff with that.

Just wondering if it would be hard to "finish off" a cast bullet with a final
hi-pressure swaging using Steel dies ?

Anticipating comments from the peanut gallery, no I am not nuts !
I am pharting around, amusing myself, something to do to keep from being bored.

DoctorBill

Thumbnail Image - Where I live...http://www.mynetimages.com/4b66d42dba_th.jpg (http://www.mynetimages.com/viewimage/4b66d42dba)

MBTcustom

04-04-2012, 12:42 AM

You most definitely can use your press to make a swaging press and all the goodies. I believe Buckshot has done this at least once.
You should go and start a thread in the swaging section and see where it takes you.
That is another discipline all together. They get to the same place we do with a slight gain in accuracy and consistency but coming from a completely different mindset. I have considered doing that myself, but the cost in time and equipment to get started makes me lightheaded.

Wayne Smith

04-04-2012, 11:15 AM

Look in the swaging section. Exactly that, using a bottle jack, has been done and pictured. I have no idea how to search for that particular thread, and I've been on this site since '05, so it could be anywhere. I do remember it within the past two or three years, though.

Longwood

04-04-2012, 11:16 AM

I had a friend show up that is so glad to see me that he stayed for four days.
:bigsmyl2: [smilie=p:
He finally left last night, [smilie=s: so now I can maybe help some more.

Too machine bullets off, until I could get the exact size I want and add the sprue cutter, I drill a piece of aluminum or brass stock with a drill just big enough to slip a bullet into. Steel works but I usually make stuff from stock I like to Machine.
If I need to hone it with some emery on a split rod, I do so.
I then machine it into a fairly thin sleeve. Say about 1/16" wall and cut it off a little bit longer than your bullet length. Enough so the part that will be for holding the sleeve together is in front of the straight sides of the bullet.
Now, trying not to cut the far side of the sleeve, very carefully make three long slots in the sleeve so that it will be split like a collet.
I use a Exacto saw with set teeth. I deburr the inside of the slits with needle files.

I was watching Youtube and found video's on every thing you will never do on a lathe and then some.

Swaging cast bullets seems a bit like doing the job twice for the same results.
Are you going to chuck them up and machine grooves in them also.?:kidding:

If a mold is casting the bullets the right shape and size, why mess with them?
If it isn't, why not make one that will?

Hydraulics are incredibly powerful and will certainly swage wheel weight alloy if everything is built stout enough.
Soda cans are swaged from thin pucks and I saw a press at Boeing that could make them from titanium.
It was only about the size of a small storage shed, but the motors and pumps needed a room about 18 feet square under the floor.
I suspect that wheel weights are made in a punch press rather than cast.

Buckshot

04-05-2012, 02:38 AM

...............Probably oughta start another thread, re: simple swage dies. Historically there were 2 types of simple "Pound" dies. Instead of hydraulics they used percussion via a hammer. The simplist type was merely a steel block with the desired shape bored into it. A lead slug was introduced, then a steel pin was inserted and was then struck with a hammer to upset the lead slug. The pin was withdrawn, the block was upended and slammed down on a suitable surface to encourage the slug to part company with the cavity.

The second and more efficient type was a hole bored through a steel block. A steel pin was inserted into the bottom of the hole with the shape of the nose formed into it. Then a lead slug was placed into the hole. After that another steel pin to form the base was inserted and again a hammer was used to upset the lead slug. Once complete the block was placed over a board or block with a hole in it. The base forming pin was driven fully home which ejected the nose forming pin and the slug. Repeat for each slug.

http://www.fototime.com/820D61686DA0E42/standard.jpg

About 10-12 years ago with my first lathe ( 3 in 1 combo machine) I made the above swage die. It was 3 pieces. On the left is the nose form punch. In the middle is the die body. On the right is the base forming punch. It was made to produce 58 caliber Minie' bullets, and was used in a ho-made hydraulic bench press. I had no core mould so used cast Minie' bullets as the raw material.

In the above photo the 2 outside Minie's were the doner slugs with the 2 in the middle being the respective result. Far Left Minie' is a Raphine 580gr Pritchet and the Far Right Minie' is the Lee Target Minie'. I first used a 6 ton bottle jack, but it was too much. It would extrude lead past both the nose and base plungers. I switched to a 3 ton and it worked very well.

http://www.fototime.com/7CA2B3C3EC5D49E/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/069CB1A7DC6AF34/standard.jpg

(LEFT) A reloading press mounted swage die to produce hollow based WC's or SWC's (depending upon which nose punch was in place). (RIGHT) some of the boolits it produced.

................Buckshot

DoctorBill

04-05-2012, 07:58 AM

BuckShot - If I get into hi-pressure swaging, I will start a new thread.

I think I have enough on my plate, however.

Looks simple, but usually things like that become complicated later on after
you get into it.

Thank you for your post. I'll bet others reading this will be interested in trying that !

LongWood - "If a mold is casting the bullets the right shape and size, why mess with them?"

Why not ?

In lieu of lead billets made from lead wire, a cast bullet would serve.
You do what you can with what you have.

It was just an idea.

From what BuckShot has shown, it looks like a Lathe would easily make
the dies.

I have two Bottle Jacks.

Making the welded steel frame to hold all the parts together would be the
problem for me.

But, as I told BuckShot, I have to stop going off on Tangents and stick
with fewer things.

DoctorBill

Longwood

04-05-2012, 06:59 PM

[QUOTE=DoctorBill;1662257]BuckShot

I think I have enough on my plate, however.

--------------------------------------------

L;
The way you will know that you are "Really Retired", is when you realize you have way more projects planned than time to do all of them.

-------------------------------------------

LongWood - "If a mold is casting the bullets the right shape and size, why mess with them?"

Why not ?

--------------------------------------------

L;
You are correct.
You think good well.

--------------------------------------------

Making the welded steel frame to hold all the parts together would be the
problem for me.

--------------------------------------------

L;
Draw a plan, so we can start beating that horse to death, and then some. :kidding::lol:
Really I am.
Kidding that is.

--------------------------------------------

But, as I told BuckShot, I have to stop going off on Tangents and stick
with fewer things.

---------------------------------------------

L;
Why?

DoctorBill

04-05-2012, 09:53 PM

I have to stop going off on Tangents and stick with fewer things.

L;
Why?

'Cause I don't do any of them justice if I diddle around doing 1/2 assed things
skipping from one thing to another.

Like I have stopped doing things with my rifle collection to phart around with this Lathe.
Then off to Hydraulic Swaging ?

What is next ?

Tomorrow is the BIG Gun Show here in Spokane, WA.
Not going....out of money....the Lathe sucked me dry.
I might see another Martini-Henry 577-450 and try to buy it....cannot resist that rifle.

I have my 30-40 Krag Jorgenson to finish putting back to Mil Spec from
some idiot bubba job.

I haven't shot my French RAS 1907-15 MLE Lebel or my French MAS 36 yet...

DoctorBill

Longwood

04-06-2012, 02:03 AM

I have an idea how to make a press similar to these, that a member owns, but simpler to manufacture for someone with what we have.

Martini,,,,
Yup,, I have wanted one since I was very young and could buy one for about $14.
Somehow, Martini and 218 Bee, always sounded good to me, when used in the same sentence.

DoctorBill

04-09-2012, 01:28 AM

QUESTION

I just bought the Harbor Freight H/V Metal Cutting Bandsaw using a 25% off
Easter Sunday Coupon.

$180. A 140 lb monster !
http://www.mynetimages.com/f5dac135d0.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

Comes with a 14 TPI wavy Chinese Blade.

I read everywhere that I should buy a Starrett replacement blade since the
Chinese Blades are Garbage.

These are 64" (5' 4") blades.
What type Starrett blade do you guys use ?
Is Starrett the better blade ?

Starrett (ENCO CATALOG) has "Premium Hard-Back" Blades with 6, 10 and 14 TPI straight
and 14, 18 and 24 TPI Wavy.
~ $13.40 Enco.

I need an all purpose blade to cut Aluminum and Steel (iron).

Tell me which is best. What speed should I run it at ? 80 / 120 / 200 fpm ?

DoctorBill

MBTcustom

04-09-2012, 07:31 AM

I would go with 10TPI and run it @ 120 for aluminum and 80 for steel.
We use 6TPI at work, but that is an extremely rigid heavy saw with H.P. to burn. Yours would probably jump around and get squirrely if you try to cut steel with 6TPI hence I suggest 10.
The finer blades are extremely useful for cutting tubing and thin walled stuff without worrying to bad about ripping the teeth off you blade, but they slow you down when cutting normal stock. You probably wont have that problem so go with the courser blades.

Longwood

04-14-2012, 01:41 PM

I want to get some diamond laping compound for working with carbide dies, but don't need much.
Would any of you guys like to split three different mesh sizes three ways to keep the cost down?
I see it in five gram quantities at around $20 and that is a lot more than I would ever use.

Longwood

04-14-2012, 01:49 PM

Saw blades,
I get mine at MSC Direct. The cheapest ones they have work very well.
I never have liked the wavy blades except for very thin sheet.
Skip tooth blades are very good for when you are making cuts on wide material. Chips don't build up in them as bad so they actually cut much faster.

Longwood

04-14-2012, 02:21 PM

I hated the keyboards that I have had because, I am a hunt and peck typist and kept hitting the rounded edge of the keys all around my intended key. It made for many words, worjds, with extra letters.:groner::killingpc

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=632885&SRCCODE=WEBGOOPA&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE&gclid=CLunnIn5tK8CFQ2FhwodyUDPgQ

Wednesday I was at Radio shack and saw this keyboard. The not only much easier to see, but the keys are square and only as big as the finger pad so I seldom misspell words now from hitting too many keys.
I only made one accidental key strike in this entire post. Normal would be about seven with my old boards with the fat round sided keys. It took me about half as long as with a keyboard with the fat keys.
I am very muchly, happiest, already!:bigsmyl2:

DoctorBill

04-14-2012, 02:44 PM

I have the exact same problem.

I think I'll buy ONE of these....by sending a Money Order !
https://tryezeyes.com/?gclid=CMnx0KaLra4CFRN3hwodel98Rg

NEVER give these clowns your Credit Card Number nor your phone number !

They sell it to every peddler in the known Universe....

BTW - finished putting this on my Lathe today.
http://www.mynetimages.com/ddfa9ee093.jpg
This DRO remembers where it was when you turned it off - doesn't go back to zero.

DoctorBill

Longwood

04-15-2012, 12:16 AM

I looked at the easy read keyboard but I never have a problem with where the keys are, just hitting them without hitting the key next to it.
The yellow keyboard has the same shape of key as the last two keyboards.
I like this one a LOT.

I went to a gun show today,,,,
I am waiting to pick up a Winchester Low-Wall in 17 HMR.
It has a Marble's tang site and Globe type front sight on it.
It took me nearly an hour to talk him down to $750.
It also has a set of modern style scope rings for it but I will probably sell them.

DoctorBill

04-15-2012, 12:50 AM

Don't you folks think it is time to close down this thread ?

I've covered just about all I needed to.

It is becoming just a random comment thing now....

I will stop posting anything more here.
If I make some bullet related thing with my Lathe, I'll start another thread.

DoctorBill

OBIII

04-15-2012, 05:11 PM

I am currently not into machining anything, although I do have a couple of unimat lathes that I have been playing around with. I really appreciate this thread, and for the nay-sayers, go somewhere else. The only suggestion I would have to a Mod is to post a "Sticky" in Paper Patching redirecting to this thread. Like the man said earlier, it's still basically about making a paper patch boolit.
Doctor Bill, this is your thread, and if you wish to close it down, more power to ya. I just would appreciate when you learn something new or have a superior brain phart to let us know. Oh yeah, pictures of shooting results would be good. Congratulations on an excellent thread.
OB

dragonrider

04-15-2012, 08:13 PM

Gonna miss this thread, been reading it as one mans journey into the unknown.

MBTcustom

04-15-2012, 08:22 PM

I have to admit that 23 pages without a shot fired is a little bit of a downer. Still, It was interesting.

Longwood

04-15-2012, 08:39 PM

Gonna miss this thread, been reading it as one mans journey into the unknown.

And he is only one small step into the "Giant Leap".

We should give him a break about not having any shots fired. You can't live much farther North, and still be in America.
Prolly has a few thou, all dressed in white and ready to "Dance the twist".[smilie=p::bigsmyl2:

DoctorBill

04-15-2012, 11:49 PM

Thanks for the words of encouragement OBIII !
I can keep going until I drop !
I thought very few gave a S**t about this - except for a few 'insiders'...

It is so easy to let the downers get to you....
'Illegitimi non carborundum est' - "Don't Let the ******** Grind You Down".

If someone is not interested in this thread, then bug off - why leave the cynical comments ?

I did put a note in the Paper Patch Boolit Thread directing people to this thread here.

Anybody looking thru that thread should see it and come here if interested.

Been sick of late and overdoing "Spring Cleaning" - so now I'm all stove up
and sore and hobbling like an old man. I am !

Being 69 really sucks ! Can't do diddly squat any more w/o hurting and limping around.

I want to make a Taper Crimper with the Lathe, but Life keeps getting in the way !

DoctorBill

BTW - The weather is getting better and I have been lusting after firing my Martini-Henry
and my Trapdoor 45-70. Soon !

MBTcustom

04-16-2012, 06:38 AM

I wasn't trying to be mean in any way. I was just humbly suggesting that before you shut down the thread, just go try out your new molded boolits made on your own machinery and post the results. It would be a nice conclusion. However, if your burned out on all this stuff and need to shoot a .22 for a few years, I totally understand that also. I have come to the place before where I look up and realize I'm on the verge of hating this stuff because I have invested so much time in it.

longbow

04-16-2012, 08:24 PM

Yup, I have been following along myself and I think you should conclude this with a range report about the PP boolit from your home made mould.

That would be a fitting conclusion to the journey you have taken us all on with you.

I for one have found this quite interesting and entertaining.

Longbow

Longwood

04-16-2012, 09:16 PM

His trip has been very interesting indeed. I really liked how Bill and others took the time to take and label photo's.

So the conversations stray a bit at times,,,,. So,,,,,?

From the number of Lookie Lou's and comments, I would say that it is worth keeping open.
I wish more people here would let us follow along as they make something or do a project. Now that nearly all of us have the equipment and can learn the ability for sharing,,,,, why not.
Youtube is awesome for putting up video's and photo clips, and there are other ways now.

midnight

04-16-2012, 10:41 PM

I've been following this thread all along contributing nothing but absorbing a lot. My metal working tools consist of a cheap drill press, a hack saw and files. My brother the machinist is coming down Thursday and I want him to read this. Thanks for the ride.

Bob

DoctorBill

04-17-2012, 03:57 PM

I think the next project I want to take on is a Taper Crimping Tool for my 45-70
reloads.

This crimper should squeeze the tip of the shell case in at a small angle
such that the case squeezes the paper patched bullet w/o curling the edge of the case inward.

I will start a new "special Projects" thread because I seem to p**s off the residents of
the Paper Patch section of this Forum.

Here is the link:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?151167-Attempt-to-make-a-Taper-Crimper-on-my-new-Lathe/page12&highlight=577

DoctorBill

MBTcustom

04-17-2012, 05:49 PM

The guys in the smokless PP section are very willing to help and they have open minds. Plus they are pretty sharp. No one over there will bust on you for bringing up BP related stuff. Humility is a common character trait over there. Even though some have done more experimenting with PP than anyone alive, none of them have a "I'm gods gift to PP" mentality.

Cane_man

02-19-2014, 03:48 PM

pulling this thread up from the grave...

Dr. Bill, any updates on your latest lathe projects?

DoctorBill

02-19-2014, 07:49 PM

This thread is at least two years old !

I'd have to go back and re-read the whole darned thing just to remember all the stuff I posted...
and all the replies !

Lathe - I put a 2.5 HP DC Motor on my lathe so I can run it at low rpm. - from a WESLO
Treadmill I got for $50 from Goodwill. That was fun. Use the WESLO Control Panel to run it.

I made some Aluminum Molds (Moulds for you English and Canadian and Aussies) using the D-Bit
and casted straight sided bullets, paper patched them and shot them in several BP Rifles.

They all shot quite well in - My Martini-Henry, my H&R 45-70's including a trapdoor 1876 H&R,
I now have a Pedersoli 45-70 Sharps and a Marlin 45-70 Lever Rifle all ready to shoot BP PP Cast bullets
made with those molds.

I bought a .577 Portuguese Contract Snider and ordered a .60 cal single cavity mold from
'Accurate Molds' on the internet and shot that w/o PP'ing.
I plan on making an Al mold to cast perhaps .595 Lead Bullets to PP and shoot in the Snider.
Repaired the sear and Tumbler on it (worn out). Bought the Tumbler from
http://www.peterdyson.co.uk/
in the UK who has all the parts at a reasonable price. He bought a whole Butt-Load
of Snider parts in many Wood Boxes in Belgium, I read. Now selling parts.
And the Sear I bought from
http://www.lodgewood.com/

http://britishmilitariaforums.yuku.com/reply/117589/Re-My-577-Snider-will-fire-at-HalfCock-
Got into it with someone and got yelled at by "The Boss". The guy had more status that I did.....

Made Brass Cases for it with Magtec 24 Gauge Shotgun hulls.
Thank you Magtec for selling those !

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?205530-Making-577-Snider-Brass-from-Magtech-24-Gauge-Brass-Shotgun-Cases&p=2289253&viewfull=1#post2289253

I have posted soooo much that I can't remember all of it or where it is !

Yes I am about 30 miles South of the Canadian Border and Winter is here.
Anyone who has been to Spokane, WA in the winter knows why I haven't
been shooting for a while.....plus I'll be 71 in about a week.
Rainy, wet, wind and slush don't go over too well for old bones.
Can't see the Target if I can see the sights -or -can't see the sights if
I can see the target. God - don't get old ! It sucks !

Been pharting around with Bee's Wax for the Seal between the Lube Cookie
and the BP. Ordered 6 lbs of Beeswax off the Internet for $24.

Now have an AK 47 and put a TAPCO Stock on a Wood Furnitured Norinco SKS.
Modern Military Rifles are UGLY to me but my 27 yr old son is liking them,
and I'll do just about anything to get him into this hobby.
Bought him everything he needs to start reloading - giving him a used RCBS
Jr for his Birthday in two months. Gave him my little LEE press for now.

Have a .303 Martini-Enfield barrel that some numb nuts squeezed in a bench
vice to unscrew it, so it has a 'dimple' in the inside barrel near the rear sight,
which I plan to shave down with a LONG D-Bit someday. it is about 0.005 inches
into the barrel near the rear sight maybe 1 cm long on one side.
I just need to find a Martini-Enfield action and put them together to have a
working .303 Martini-Enfield.

Shooting and reloading (have everything reloaded and waiting) has to wait
until this Northern WA State weather improves.

Want to pistol practice so I can hit what I aim at better - just in case I
ever need to use a pistol for defense. I'd probably empty the magazine
and not hit a 55 gallon drum at 25 yards.....at least with these damned
modern semi-autos. I can drive tacks with a revolver, but semi-autos
elude me....

Whew ! I may have repeated stuff here that I posted before. If so, sorry!

DoctorBill

Cane_man

02-20-2014, 03:21 PM

great, thanks for the update... wanted to make sure you were still at it, and your threads are a ton of fun to read and learn from as well

DoctorBill

02-24-2014, 11:29 PM

I'm getting Cabin Fever sitting around watching the snow fall and the wind blow.

We got about eight inches of snow in the last couple of days here South of Spokane, WA.

Probably going to melt soon and become slush, then snow again.
I hate slush. Hard to drive in at 55 mph and sticks to everything.

The shooting range I go to is no doubt a sloppy, muddy, cold, wet mess !
It has a natural spring dump water across it in the spring when the snows melt and the
rains come.

I swear to God, if he lets me win a big enough Lottery, I'd go out and buy a big
farm out here and turn it into a big old shooting range way out in the farm country.
Form a Club and let people shoot to their hearts content. Get all the Local Police and State
Police involved - maybe any Military who need to practice....just to help keep the
anti-gun and anti-shooting political jerks at bay. They spend big bucks trying to
keep any gun ranges from forming. Zoning, noise, "danger" - anything they can to
stop shooting.....

I've reloaded everything I needed and now just waiting for decent weather.
Ya, I know - Nothing stops some people, but I'm a fair weather shooter.
Don't like getting wet and cold sitting on a snow covered bench with water dripping
on me from a metal roof. Too old for that.

http://s19.postimg.org/u1wamho2r/Old_Fart_in_Rocking_Chair.jpg

Got a whole bunch of new rifles to shoot. Thinking of practicing pistol shooting.
Got to hit what you aim at. All the movie stars do !

DoctorBill

PS - Isn't Obama something else !? Just leave him alone and he'll destroy himself !
Get out this Fall and vote some Republicans into the Senate - if for nothing else but
to take control of both houses. The Republicans are sure useless, except to block
Democrats. We need a true "Conservative Party".