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W.R.Buchanan
02-10-2012, 02:57 PM
I moved this from the general category as nobody appeared to be interested.

The Fuzz Wheel is something we make in my machine shop for deburring intricate parts. It is very simple to make and takes about 10 minutes.

It consists or 3 or 4 6x9" Scotch-Brite Pads. Available at any paint store or Big Box in boxes of ten. The red ones work the best. Diferent colored pads are different grits.

The pads are folded at 45* diagonally to form a square and then the left over 3x6 piece is cut off with scissors. This forms a square. You can use the cutoffs for whatever needs finishing.(stock work?)

Then the square is folded diagonally twice and the very tip of the resulting triangle is snipped off. Not too much just enough to form a 1/2-3/4" hole in the center of the pad.

These pads are then threaded onto your grinder spindle and staggered so the tips don't line up. This is a pic of a new wheel that has only been used for a few minutes.

When the grinder is turned on the whole mess rotates and blows everywhere, and you must be judicious in using the new wheel until all the corners get knocked off and the wheel is made round.

It WILL take things away from you and deposit them in unknown places, so hold on tight.

This type of wheel is very good for deburring intricate parts with lots of nooks and crannys. It works very well for deburrring threads, slots in collets, and fine finishing anything that you can't get a regular wheel into. You will be surprised how well the fuzz gets into slots, threads, and nooks and crannys.

I buffed my entire Mauser bolt to remove any exterior scratches from years of use in seconds. It leaves a nice matt finish similar to bead blasting but smoother. It will remove scratches and fair in dents and burrs.

Someone was complaining about using a Collet style bullet puller and having the collet messing up the bullets because of the undeburred edges. Also a Lee collet style FCD leaving gouges in the case due to the collet not being deburred. This simple to make wheel fixes all that in a matter of seconds. It does exceedingly well smoothing out investment cast parts that have little dingle balls stuck to them.

Here's pics of making the wheel and some parts I have deburred with one. Some are my machine shop parts and some are gun parts. I got $55 ea for those little collets, and they had to look like they were worth $55 when I got done. Spinning them on a mandrel got inside all the slots and polished the threads perfectly. It also left a very consistant finish the full length of the part. It took about 15 seconds to completely deburr each one. I made 112 of those collets on the first order. They were alternatives to Levin "D" size collets that are $110 ea from Levin! Good job!

This is a simple thing to do. Try it and I gaurantee you'll love it.

Randy



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oneokie
02-10-2012, 03:00 PM
uhmm, I don't see any pictures??

W.R.Buchanan
02-10-2012, 03:06 PM
How about now?

randy

Reg
02-10-2012, 03:09 PM
Slick, I like that.

:drinks:

waksupi
02-10-2012, 04:32 PM
I'm interested, I made notes, and moved on! ;o)

303Guy
02-10-2012, 06:53 PM
Thanks for that. Great idea! I've just found a use for a motor I have lying around.

Nobade
02-10-2012, 09:20 PM
That's a great idea! Those scotchbrite wheels are $75 and this would do the same thing for nearly nothing. Cool!

slide
02-10-2012, 09:54 PM
Outstanding Idea!!

Dutchman
02-10-2012, 11:14 PM
Very useful idea.

The scissors you use to cut these types of pads better be old ratty scissors!

How about using a single edge razor blade scraper, linoleum knife or box cutter?

The ones I have are maroon 3M pads. I call them scratch pads. I use them on the wood lathe and on metal in the lathe.

Dutch

Jammer Six
02-10-2012, 11:33 PM
The way I've done that is with strips of sandpaper, and I used a wood lathe. That gave me control over the speed.

W.R.Buchanan
02-10-2012, 11:43 PM
A regular pair of scissors works just fine, the scotchbrite pads don't kill them as fast as you would think. Not nearly as bad as cutting sand paper I have been using the same pair of cheap $2 scissors in my shop for many years.

I use the maroon/red pads the most I just don't have any right now, the green ones are the next step coarser than the red ones. Gray ones are the finest and the brownish tan ones are pretty vicious.

You can stilluse the cuttoffs for whatever hand usage you need and also when the wheel wears down inside the drive flanges you can use the rounds the same way.

Nobade: You still have to have the hard scotchbrite wheels for deburring edges on parts you make. If you try to use the fuzz wheels to break edges it just tears them up and shortens their life which isn't that long anyway.

They work best on threads, slots, and putting a nice finish on surfaces after you have broken the edges on a hard wheel.

When you try it you will learn the limitations quickly, once you understand the usage you will really benefit form the tool.

Randy

andremajic
02-11-2012, 07:19 PM
Thanks Randy!
P.S. Isn't Ojai where Chuck Testa is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJP1DphOWPs

Andy.

danski26
02-11-2012, 10:59 PM
Cool Idea! Thanks

303Guy
02-11-2012, 11:17 PM
Any reason why we can't substitute Scotch pads for sandpaper discs on our angle grinders?

Dutchman
02-12-2012, 02:57 AM
Any reason why we can't substitute Scotch pads for sandpaper discs on our angle grinders?

You can try but I'd think 11,000 rpm might be one reason they wouldn't last very long.
Plus angle grinders usually see much more severe use than a bench grinder.

Dutch

Dutchman
02-12-2012, 03:10 AM
A regular pair of scissors works just fine, the scotchbrite pads don't kill them as fast as you would think.

My two shop shears are Wiss and are both dated 1943. I'm rather nostalgic about some of my tools. These two my grandfather used when he made furniture and did the upholstery.


I have been using the same pair of cheap $2 scissors in my shop for many years.

Seems the logical solution:).

Last time I was in Ojai was about 1975. Rode my Triumph 500 up Hwy 33 and came out in Frasier Park. Nice motorcycle ride.

Dutch

Jammer Six
02-12-2012, 04:26 AM
My two shop shears are Wiss and are both dated 1943. I'm rather nostalgic about some of my tools.
I have a hammer that Dad gave me.

It's been in the family since the old country. It was originally forged in England in 1679.

Of course, in that time, it's had 4 new heads and 17 new handles...

W.R.Buchanan
02-13-2012, 03:08 PM
Dutch: Note I specified "cheap scissors" get a pair from the dollar store.

What you can do is use the fuzz wheel for buffing off any accumulated rust or "Patina" on your Wiss shears. As long as you keep the edges away from the wheel it won't dull them. All you do to sharpen those Shears is stone the ground angled edge, never the flat side that contacts the other blade. I have resharped many sets of those and I think I even have a set of my own somewhere. I know that when done sharpening them to a nice edge they will cut paper just by dragging it thru the partially closed shears.

When sharp there have never been any other shears made that compared to them. I also have several sets of older Wiss tin snips. I have sharpened them many times, and as far as quality goes ,,, Just like the shears!

Andremajic: I do not know Chuck Testa however he is definately in Ojai,,, somewhere. The Rhino ordering the drink is at a bar called the "Deer Lodge" which is a big motorcycle destination on the weekends on Hwy 33 just north of town.

I will ask around at the gun club and find out more about Chuck Testa. He appears to be an intersting fellow.

Randy

leftiye
02-13-2012, 11:16 PM
Just what I need for that nickel plated old Hand ejector I just got.