View Full Version : Problem priming LC brass for 38 spl
I have a bunch of these LC brass either year 77 0r 78 that I cannot prime with the Lee priming tool. The primer pocket seems too small for a normal CCI500?
What do you do with these? I noticed on depriming them that some of the old primers seemed to hang up in the pocket and I had to pull them out with a pair of plyers. Never saw that before. Are these milsurp rounds or something else?
Joe
MtGun44
02-05-2012, 11:28 PM
Crimped in primers. You will have to cut out or swage back the primer crimp. This is
required in most military ammunition. You can cut with a Hornady or similar chamfer tool,
or use a swager like the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool.
Bill
Sonnypie
02-05-2012, 11:28 PM
Much to the gasp of many, I still use the same primer pocket reamer Dad and I began with.
Because it works.
Everybody wants to stampede after this new method, or that new swaging die to reform their primer pockets away from crimped in Military specs.
But I just chuck up that sweet old reamer and in seconds apiece, I have great working primer pockets.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/Acc-u-ream2.jpg
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/Acc-u-ream3.jpg
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/Acc_u_ream1.jpg
I'm not sure we got our money's worth though.
After all, it did cost $3.95 and is still going fine.
beagle
02-06-2012, 12:57 AM
Some of the old WCC and FC military .38 Special cases were like that and a one time swaging will cure the problem really quick.
I can't for the life of me figure why they put a primer pocket crimp on a case that could only be shot in a revolver.
The added expense of the tooling for this operation tells me that it was a government cost plus requirement./beagle
Sonnypie
02-06-2012, 02:21 AM
Beagle,
That's Government Intelligence.
No more need be said.... :lol:
Thanks guys that explains it exactly. I saw a YOutube video last night too a guy used a simple 30 deg. countersink bit I may try that instead of buying another die. I do like that $3.95 tool though Sonny! Joe
WRideout
02-06-2012, 08:14 AM
Recently I was trying to prime some surplus 30-06 cases, and couldn't get the Federal LR primers in with my Lee tool. I used the case mouth chamfering tool to remove the crimp but the pockets were still tight. I may need to try swaging or reaming; I've got a lifetime supply of the cases.
Wayne
Check out YouTube, the guy is reaming the primer pockets of 223 milsurp brass using the counterbore bit, looks pretty easy. I have the Lyman Universal case cutter tool and I may try that on some of these using the chamfering bit that comes with that setup. Joe
I tried to ream them using both the Lyman Universal and the Lee hand tool. Each worked ok so I think the problem is resolved. Thanks everyone!
MtGun44
02-07-2012, 09:17 PM
We were all newbies once! Glad to help.
Bill
mooman76
02-08-2012, 12:10 AM
I just us a drill bit. Use one larger than the whole just to take the crimp out and then ream to hole with a primer whole uniformer to smooth the hole out. It doesn't take much and I used a variable speed rechargeable drill because you don't need or want allot of power.
1hole
02-08-2012, 01:36 PM
I've always suspected that most of the Lee AutoPrimes so many people have broken was from trying to prime GI ammo before the crimp was properly removed.
I prefer to use Lyman's pocket reamer chucked in a battery drill. Drill bits, counter sinks, etc, often remove too much metal from around the pocket hole and that increases the potential for a primer blow out.
beagle
02-08-2012, 01:39 PM
Love that M107 avatar./beagle
Recently I was trying to prime some surplus 30-06 cases, and couldn't get the Federal LR primers in with my Lee tool. I used the case mouth chamfering tool to remove the crimp but the pockets were still tight. I may need to try swaging or reaming; I've got a lifetime supply of the cases.
Wayne
beagle
02-08-2012, 01:42 PM
Be careful with those countersinks. Some of them remove a lot of metal. Much better to swage the crimp out into a usable form rather than remove too much. But, if that's all you have go for it. Better than wrestling with the crimps./beagle
Reload3006
02-08-2012, 01:45 PM
+1 with Beagle Better to swage the pocket ... but I have cut the crimp off of several with a pocket knife. (trust me not the best approach) but it worked. the reamer would be effective too.
303british.com
02-08-2012, 01:46 PM
Some of the old WCC and FC military .38 Special cases were like that and a one time swaging will cure the problem really quick.
I can't for the life of me figure why they put a primer pocket crimp on a case that could only be shot in a revolver.
The added expense of the tooling for this operation tells me that it was a government cost plus requirement./beagle
Hi. A crimp and primer seal used to be the military standard for keeping things water tight, for long term storage and proper functioning after rough handling. I say "used to" because I've noticed that military 5.56 cases don't have crimped primers. I've been out of the military for a number of years and they probably changed the way they do business.
Mk42gunner
02-09-2012, 10:45 AM
A Primer pocket swager is usally the way to go, but some times you need to ream the whole pocket as well.
I have about five gallons of LC-64 7.62 brass that has a tight spot once the primer is about halfway in. I really need to get a reamer for that particular lot of brass.
Robert
so far it is working to just chuck the case into my battery operated drill and pass the Lee deburring tool on the primer pocket. Fast and easy.
WRideout
02-11-2012, 01:03 PM
Love that M107 avatar./beagle
Meaning no disrespect, but it is a Howitzer, heavy, self-propelled, M110. The previous A1 version had the short tube; looked like a carbine. They were all traded in on missile launchers. I had a short stint with those, too.
Wayne
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