my home made setup

[arjacobson]

40428

40429Here are a couple of photos. I have my .357 dies in the arbor press and the 30 cals are in the foreground. I just finished my 357s this morning. Material is standard stress proof. I was worried about wear with SP but I have already ran a few thousand checks and everything was still the same size. I can actually change shank size a few thou just by making a new inside forming spud. In fact I have a couple that I trial ran and they worked out just fine. My original dies were just like this but they fit in a reloading press. UNTIL I remembered that I had a small arbor press for pressing in guitar frets on necks that I build.. Nice to be able to use this tool for more than one thing![smilie=2: P.S.. That press was the best $26 I have ever spent

[Jbuck]

So, did you build the actual punch the cuts and forms the CG's? Would like some more photos mabe turn the 30 cal on it's side so I can see what goes on under there. New here still reading and learning, have always used jacketed bullets but am considering jumping into casting.

[longbow]

Looks like a nice setup.

Do those dies punch and form all in one operation?

What Jbuck said... more photos!

I made a very simple check maker but I have to punch out disks then form after.

Longbow

[arjacobson]

Yeah they punch and form all in one step. Basically they are a freechex3 design. I will get some more indepth photos later today. They work fantastic. In fact I have to go to Ace hardware for more aluminum. I never thought I would go through the whole roll!!! The aluminum on the bottom is just the base that bolts to the arbor press. I just cut the long roll into smaller sizes-punch out what I can-trim the sheet with a scissors-start punching out more checks. It cuts from the edge so you don't have to be real accurate with cutting the aluminum into strips.. I will go get some more photos:bigsmyl2:

[arjacobson]

40469

40470

40471 blurry pics but you can see how the spud in the top forms the inside of the check. The long tube on the bottom first cuts the check(along with the slot in the side of the die) then after about .040 travel it hits the top spud. The top spud pushes the blank into the long tube and forms the check which falls out the bottom. The bottom tube has a forming step about .187 long and then is drilled bigger from the other end so the checks fall out freely. Basically the long tube cuts the disc and forms the OUTSIDE of the check while the spud pushes the disc and forms the INSIDE. I gotta give two thumbs up for Ed Harris!!! Great design. BTW the springs I used were off a briggs 5 horse racing engine and a honda crf 50!

[JeffinNZ]

Brilliant!

[Dan Cash]

Most excellent! So when can I buy one?
Dan

[geargnasher]

That's pretty slick, man. Mass production. I was unfamiliar with this design, but the operating description in post #6 is perfect. Thanks for posting!

Gear

[arjacobson]

Been running a few GC's from time to time while watching tv. I weighed them up after a sample count and found out my bag had a bit over 3800.. I'm pretty sure I am set for quite some time in 357 gcs. I have run at least that many with my 30 cal dies but haven't weighed them yet. Just for another project I have been looking at a newer die design that runs 3 GC at the same time. I will probably have to upgrade to a larger arbor press, the 11yr old thinks he wants to become a entrepreneur in the GC business:popcorn:

[longbow]

Very nice work! Nice design too ~ you say it is Ed Harris' design? Is the design available for home builders?

I made my own crude but effective GC maker. It is a separate disk punch then forming die. It is a bit slow but makes good checks. I have been using old aluminum gutter material which is 0.019" thick so it extrudes a little deeper than typical checks but they fit and work. I have lots of old gutter!

Yours is definitely a nice looking set up though. Thanks for posting.

Longbow

[Doc Highwall]

Yes!
I would like better pictures if you could.

[BigShot]

Looks nice! I like the use of the aluminium rain gutter.

[Reg]

If you want to make those dies last a bit longer, heat the stress proof to a good medium or slightly higher ( ya I know , eye of newt and all ) red and quench in a light 10 wt. oil. Polish to a finish.
Stress Proof is actually a 1055 -1054 carbon steel and while it dosn't have a lot of yield it can be made harder than heck. Have used it for making dies for a Multi Matic press and others.
Good stuff.

:drinks:

[arjacobson]

cool I will have to give that a try!

[WILCO]

but the operating description in post #6 is perfect.

Actually, it's post #5..................:mrgreen:

[monge]

Does eneyone know the diameter of the disc 45 and 44 / Thanks JOE

[emrah]

Ok, maybe I'm a little dense, but I have NO idea how this thing works. Your description is fine, but I guess I'd like clarification about the terminology, like "top spud", "bottom spud", "blank" etc. Is there a way you can clarify this? What is the central cutting tube?

Also, what is that piece that small cylindrical piece that has two different diameters? What do the different diameters do? Where the does the fat end and skinny end fit?

Do the checks fall out the top or the bottom? Where exactly does the aluminum sheet slip into?

Sorry for the thousand questions. I would love to build this, but I guess I need a step by step. Any chance you could do a video or something? How about labeling parts in the photos?

Emrah

[emrah]

Even if you explained it in terms: "Large darker cylinder thingy", "small, two-diametered rod thingy", "piece that fits inside the spring thingy".

What fits into what and what forms what?

Emrah

[arjacobson]

#1-the small pc with two diameters(this fits into the larger round pc.) #2-the larger round pc-#3-the main cutting/forming tube. What happens is the larger round pc #2 has a slot cut into it. You insert the aluminum here-The slender tube attached to the aluminum base has the proper outside dimension for the check blank and fits inside #2. When you pull the lever down the long slender tube cuts the aluminum disc-the disc hits the spud-the spud bends the disc an pushes it further into the slender tube-the completed check falls out of the bottom. The slender tube I.D. has the proper size for the OUTSIDE of the check while the spud has the proper size for the INSIDE of the check.. Basically the slender tube cuts the disc and forms the outside of the check in conjunction with the spud. Check out youtube. It is MUCH more simple to watch then explain.. Look up freechex3.

[emrah]

Ok, got it. I was making it way harder than it needed to be. Sketched it out so it makes sense now! I work for a race team, so I have access to a mill, lathe, welder, etc. Gonna have to try and make something like this.

If you don't mind me asking, what were your dimensions? I'm wanting to do checks for .30 cal boolits. I'm going with a .284 shank/check i.d. What is the o.d. of the cutter? I'm coming up with .310-.314-ish.

Thanks,

Emrah

[arjacobson]

Off the top of my head---main hole for disc-.408-turn large end of spud to fit and small end is .284(I use .001-.002 under for best luck) Turn 2" long spindle to fit main hole-inside dimension is .312-.314 depending on what you end up sizing bullet. Slot for aluminum is cut with a horizontal bandsaw and it is .500 from bottom of main die. Stop the cut when it is about .030 through the hole- The .312-.314 spindle dimension is .187 long and then you drill a clearance hole from the backside so the checks will fall out. Main body is 1.750 long-spud is 1.187 long with the turned end .437 long.. Need any more help fel free to pm me.

[emrah]

Cool, thanks!

Emrah

[edsmith]

that setup is great.:awesome:

[emrah]

Ok, couple more quick questions:

1. The cutter's od is. 408 to fit exactly into the main body's hole which id also. 408, correct?

2. The cutter's id is. 314. Also correct, right?

So how do you get a nice, crisp disk (blank) cut when a .314 cutter is pushing the aluminum against a .408 hole on the other side? I'm guessing the wall thickness of your cutter is .047 (.408-.314= .094. .094/2= .047)

3. Did you use a standard punch for your cutter or did you make it?

4. Does the cutter edge need to be super sharp (like a punch) or is the aluminum easy enough to cut without a sharpened edg

Emrag

[arjacobson]

#1 right- #2 right- The 408 dimension cuts the disc first(the outside spindle O.D.) in conjunction with the slot in the main body. Then the disc gets pushed into the small end of the spud-the spud bends and forms the disc when it gets pushed INSIDE the spindle. The spindle is hollow all the way through(basically a pc of pipe) This all happens as fast as you pull the handle. The spring pushes the tool back to starting position when you let up on the arbor press handle.. You are then ready to make another check. #3-Your cutter IS the spindle and has to be made to fit the .408 hole with an inside bore of .312-.314 (for 30 cal checks) #4- It doesn't have to be super sharp as the aluminum punches easily. I usually just dress the spindle so it has a nice flat surface. You DO need a chamfer on the INSIDE bore so your checks form easily without punchouts. I chamfer mine leaving a ring about .020-.030 wide. It is then polished up so the checks will bend easily without cutting or tearing..

[emrah]

Duh! (I just smacked my self on my forehead for being a dope). I get it now (for real... I promise). I wasn't thinking of the height of the walls of the gas check. I was also confusing the thickness of the "cupped" (wall) part of the finished check with the cut disk size.

The disk size is .408. The id of the finished check is .284 (give or take a thou). The finished OD of the disk is .314, again, give or take a thou.

Got it.

Emrah

[rlb]

Well ok you guys have put enough pics up that i am going to have to fire up the lathe and play a bit. Thanks for the help.

Rich

[Longwood]

Another good source for the punch press type of springs is clutch disks.
I used one to make my lead hardness tester that uses a dial indicator.

[arjacobson]

When I turn the spindle down(cuts the disc and forms the outside of the check) I turn the od down first and then with the part still in the chuck I drill a hole all the way through before boring for the .314 dimension. You have to have little or no runout between the od and id of this part. The clearance drill comes in from the backside as that really doesn't matter much as far as runout is concerned. If you have any runout it will make your check lopsided. GREAT tip on the clutch springs!!!

[arjacobson]

Well ok you guys have put enough pics up that i am going to have to fire up the lathe and play a bit. Thanks for the help.

Rich

Rich if you need any tips pm me.. I do the body bore first-turn the spindle od to match-bore the id of the spindle-clearance drill from the back of the spindle-turn the forming spud od to match the body-turn the small end of the spud-cut the slot-then drill and tap the body. It took a bit and I messed a couple up(cyphering skills!) but have learned a bunch about what makes this style checkmaker run good in an arbor press. Great design

[maglvr]

Very slick indeed!!

[rlb]

Does eneyone know the diameter of the disc 45 and 44 / Thanks JOE

You know, I tried to also find this out. The nearest I can figure just with a quick measurement of a Hornady 44 check is around .500. Maybe someone will chime in later.

[edsmith]

take a look at my DIY check maker book, it will give what you want to know.

[rlb]

Thank you Mr. Smith