SMLEs and No4s, Riddle me this!

[Four Fingers of Death]

I was a Cadet in the Australian Army at school and we carried SMLEs and were taught by Korean vets, so I'm pretty familiar with the old girl. I now own a couple of No4s as well.

You have probably seen the floods we are having in Australia and while I haven't been flooded, we have had an incredible amount of rain. My gargage is at the bottom of a steep driveway and water gets under the garage door when it really pelts down. My big rifle safe is normally watertight, but the sheer volume of water and the fact that I was away for a few days and didn't get to it, meant that there ended up being a fair bit of water in the safe and the stocks were all spotted with mould and those rifles that were barrel down suffered a bit of rusting.

Oddly enough, the military finish is pretty resiliant and the damage didn't amount to anything noticeable. My (used to be mint) 1894 Marlin and my MirokuSxS and Ignatio Urtechnea shotguns didn't fare so well.

Well I have closed the door after the bull bolted as my Dad used to say and cleaned everything, but I would like to strip and clean the bolts on the Enfields as well.

It occurs to me that I have stripped bolts on M17s, P14s, Mausers, etc, etc, but I have never stripped a bolt on an SMLE or a No4.

I know the No4 uses a tool that can be manafactured by filing a cut into a 6mm deep shank 1/4" socket, but what about the SMLE? How do you strip it? Is it the same?

I also have a Ross303 and I used spray de-watering oil on that one, no way am I going to try and strip that one, lol.

I'd appreciate a heads up, Thanks.

[dominicfortune00]

I made a tool and did my Ross 303, it wasn't bad.

Just had to make sure everything ended up in the right place when assembled.

[Multigunner]

The firing pin wrench normally used is a tube of brass or copper with the notches you mention and a hole drilled through one end to insert a rod to use as a T handle.

Its best not to use a steel tool of any sort unless absolutely necessary.

In fact unless absolutely necessary (to replace weak or rusted spring, or replace the firing pin) its best not to remove the firing pin at all.

If flood waters were fresh rather than sea water just soaking the bolt with bolt head removed in a water displacing oil should do the trick. After working the pin back and forth a few times you might want to blow out debris with compressed air, then squirt in some thicker preservative oil.

Its common to find a firing pin shaft screwed in so tight that its very difficult to remove, and any loosening of the fit to the cocking piece can affect trigger pull, in extreme cases a loosely fitting cocking piece can be a contributing source of accidental discharge.


PS
If you do decide to unscrew the firing pin, remember to remove the locking screw first.

[dualsport]

I can give you some advice as far as the driveway goes, dealt with this many many times. I'm in the business. I call it reverse drain, the driveway drains back towards the garage. Cut a 2' section out of the driveway right at the end, the garage end. Pour it back with a little valley in it and a channel drain imbedded in the bottom of the valley. Of course you need a place for the water in the drain to go, one end or the other usually. A pro can make it look good, no more water under the door. Sorry about your guns. Maybe put some bricks under the safe, elevate it.

[Mk42gunner]

I just took the bolthead off the bolt on my 2A1 Ishapore, I can see the firing pin retainer down inside the bolt. It has a slot cut in it that a screwdriver would fit, except for that pesky firing pin in the way.

I think your idea of a 6mm deepwell socket with suitable grinder modification will work. I do not know if it is the same as a No.4.

My old copy of Brownells catalog (#58) has a tool for a SMLE, it does not say if it will work or not for a No. 4.

Good Luck,

Robert

[Multigunner]

I'm pretty sure that the same tool made for the SMLE works on the No.4, my homemade tool works just as well for either.

[Bloodman14]

I bought the Brownell's tool some time ago; it works just fine. As said, remove the locking screw first.

[303Guy]

All that's nesessary is to remove the bolt head, blow out with compressed air, dry in a warm to hot place and lube with preservative light oil. A wonderful preservative is the the great smelling Hoppe's No.9.If you do remove the firing pin you might want to use a little locking something on the locking screw so it doesn't fall out later. I have one or two with missing locking screws (got them that way).

[Four Fingers of Death]

I think it may be advisable to 'sleeve it.' As in sleeve it alone, lol. I have already removed the bolt heads and flushed with the thicker Lanox oil spray (HaHa! My Lithgow made SMLE and No4 7.62 Conversion Rifle now smell like a sheep, which is ok, but horror of horrors, so does my American built Savage No4Mk1!).

I think I will pull the boltheads and give them another spray/soak next time I'm cruising past the safe.

I intend to weld up a couple of skids from H/D square section tubing and run the bolts through the base of the safe, through the skids and into the concrete. I have done this to the safe I installed later on and it is fine.

Thnaks for the help!