Bedding Ruger M77 Hawkeye

[Garys007]

I'm about to try to bed my Ruger M77 Hawkeye, but before I screw something up, I'd like to ask a few questions. I plan on bedding the front recoil lug area, the rear receiver tang and the chamber area of the barrel.

My problem is that the front receiver screw threads directly into the recoil lug at an angle. I don't seem to have much room to remove material from the stock. I guess my question is where can I remove material and how do I keep the bedding compound out of the screw hole? Here is a picture.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_205684f2a93a70e12a.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3723)

On the rear receiver tang, there isn't much room. Would I gain much by bedding it? I was planning on counter boring the hole. Again, how do I keep the bedding compound out of the hole?

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_205684f2a942276db2.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3724)

I guess I could plug both holes with modeling clay, but then how do I get the screws in to screw down the action to the stock? I've watched a bunch of videos on YouTube, but I didn't see much info on rifles with this configuration.

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give. I did a search on this site and I did gain a lot of valuable info, but not enough to make me feel comfortable about cutting my stock yet.

Thanks,
Gary

[frank505]

Hi Gary;
Johnsons paste wax is the bedders friend. Cover all the metal and outside of tthe stock with it so no bedding compound sticks to it.
That front screw is a bit difficult, just did a 458 and it turned out well. I remove a bunch of wood in front of the recoil lug area so that void may be replaced with compound. Make sure you leave some wood so the action sits flat like it did before the chips fell. The rear tang needs to be supported by wood but some may be removed if you really want compound in there. I dont usually. The front recoil lug may only touch anything the rear vertical portion. All alse should be taped off with duct tape etc. Make sure the screws are waxed!!! Glob the compound in, ease the metal into place, tongue depressors work very , broken, off to scrape excess goo. Run the screws in and wait several hours. When the excess goo is slightly tacky and seems set, take out the screws. Can clean excess off, but put back together and let sit for 12 to 24 hours. If its not coming out, a trip to the deep freeze is your new best friend. It can be tough to do the first one, and make sure wax covers all metal, make sure!!!!
Mechanical locks will occur and modeling clay fills voids in the metal. I dont worry about the screws as they are waxed as is the screw hole(use a Qtip) I fill the screw hole with wax too.
That front screw must not touch anything but the threaded hole and bottom metal, easily taken care of with a chain saw file when all is set.

[Garys007]

Frank,

Thanks for the good reply. It helps. Does it have to be Johnson paste wax or will any carnuba wax work? Do you actually fill the screw hole, as in plug it with the wax, or just give it a good coating with the wax?

Should I also plug the through hole in the stock where the front screw goes? This way the bedding compound has no where to go.

[405]

Garys,
Franks method is the way most do it and the way I do it most of the time. Those square bottom receivers are usually the hardest to do right.

You can coat or practically fill the action screw holes in the receivers with a lot of wax (any car wax will work and a Qtip works well as has been suggested) along with the screws. Then as you apply the compound leave a little space around the holes so the screw does not push thru a bunch of compound when seating the action but the compound will flow up to the screws after seating. Don't worry too much about the compound in the wood. Simply drill out after the operation is complete.

Another method is to not use the action screws at all- can be used for square bottom recievers- not so good for round bottom types. Just make sure the recoil lug rear ONLY surface is in firm contact with the mating surface of the stock cut out- tape the bottom, sides and front surface (Frank also pointed this out). Simply cut little squares of scotch tape and place over the action screw holes in the metal before coating with wax. You can fill the holes in the stock with clay but I've also used a little wad of paper towel poked down tight into the hole with a small screw driver- make sure the paper or clay doesn't overlap onto the bedding surface-you don't want a high spot there. Then simply drill out the hole when finished. When not using action screws use rubber tubing to apply mild pressure evenly between action and stock. The idea with any bedding is to not induce any abnormal stress into the barrel action- that's why it's a good idea to bed both the tang and the front part of the action at the same time. The rubber bands or tubing do not need to be tight..... just even, light pressure along the length of the action. And, I've found an alternative to using rubber tubing or bands for action bedding.... Vetwrap works great! :)