New muzzleloader

[Boolseye]

Hi folks,
I'm the proud new owner of a TC .50 cal encore–I've ordered the REAL 320 grain mold, and have a pound of pyrodex FFG and 40 TC maxi-hunter 350 grainers. I'm a smokeless shooter, so this is all new to me–blasted 4 rounds yesterday with the 350s and loads measuring 80 on the powder measure (probably 60-something grains of pyrodex). Accuracy seemed to go downhill after round 2, but it mighta been me. Took it home and scrubbed the #$%& out of it–got it nice and sparkly.

Here're are my questions:
What's the basic drill in terms of field cleaning? Every shot? Are those R.E.A.L. boolits as self-cleaning as they claim?

How low can I go in terms of powder charge? It seems like plinking down around 1000 fps would go easier on my wallet as well as my shoulder (the lowest charge TC mentions in their booklet is the aforementioned 80 on the measure, for about 1450 fps).

Finally, The ramrod: does one attach anything to it for regular use, or just as is? I notice that both ends are threaded, and I assume that short brass piece that came with the gun is the bullet starter, to which I have screwed a wooden handle. It seems as though more length is needed when cleaning the firearm–does one screw the bullet starter to the ramrod for this purpose?

Final question today–what should I cast those R.E.A.L.s from, or what BHN do people go for? Pure lead? Range lead BHN 8-10? WW?


Any feedback is welcome.
-jp

[docone31]

If you know a roof contractor, or contractor in general, you might be able to get roof jacks from him. That is perfect lead for the R.E.A.L.s.
With the Lee mold, you will want to soak the mold in mineral spirits, at least over night. Then, when you go to cast, set the mold on the melt. I cover mine with Kitty Litter, so it just rests on top of the melt.
Then, cast away!
I use the six second rule. Over six seconds, and it is too hot, under six seconds and it is too cool. Once you get going, it goes smooth.
Then, follow the load charges that come with the casting. They are great and work well. I also carry a plastic mallet to set the casting in the bore. Using the short starter just deforms the tip. Two good whacks with the mallet, and the casting is flush with the bore. Then use the short starter, then the ramrod.
I lube my R.E.A.L.s with Crisco mixed with Beeswax and Olive Oil. You will have to play with the stiffness pending the temp range where you are. The threaded ramrod ends are just threaded for the tips. Use the concave end to ram the casting home. Mark where your bore ends on the ramrod. Many times, I have dry loaded the casting. Many times, and how long have I been shooting? 4 decades?
You will get the hang of it soon enough. I use an old 45/70 case, cut to length as my measure in the field. I keep the measure for the range.
I like the R.E.A.L.s. They are a good load.

[Hickory]

My thoughts;

What's the basic drill in terms of field cleaning?
1) This is something you should conclude at the shooting range

How low can I go in terms of powder charge?
2) You can go down to 3-4 grs of powder, I have done this to get a
round out of the barrel that got there before the powder.
(But not recommended for plinking)

Finally, The ramrod: does one attach anything to it for regular use?
3) One end should have a fixture that is used to seat the ball/boolit.
I have a fiberglass ram rod for hunting, and have a hole drilled in
the other end in case it gets stuck in the barrel. If that happens I
us a nail that fits the hole to pull out the ram rod.

Should I cast those R.E.A.L.s from, or what BHN do people go for? Pure lead?
4) Use pure lead, in the long run you will be a lot happier for it.

[Underclocked]

I shouldn't think Lee REALs would be a very good choice for an Encore, although it may shoot them decently. TC rifles are designed for use with sabot'd loads given the QLA isn't very friendly to conicals. I think you could drop down to about 40 grains volumetric as a minimum and might even get better accuracy from the REALs at reduced charges.

Swab damp/dry after each shot using short, fast strokes as you work down the barrel. Lightly dampened patches using alcohol, Windex (or similar), or MAP (a home blended solution) followed by two or three dry patches should be good. Make sure the bore is dry before loading. Also, make sure the QLA section is cleaned by this process.

Crisco will work just fine as a bullet lube but there are much better recipes for good lube all over the net, just make sure the recipe is for black powder use.

Pyrodex is extremely corrosive. Be sure to FULLY clean your Encore after each firing session and do not put it off by more than a very few hours. Remove the firing pin assembly and clean and lube it and its internals as well. There again, there is lots of guidance on the net for properly cleaning a muzzleloader and some specific to the Encore m/l.

IMHO, you've made a terrible choice of powders for THAT model rifle. All the nooks and crannies in the Encore action will make thorough cleaning pretty tedious. Triple7 would probably be a better bet so far as cleaning. You would still be required to do the cleaning, the T7 just might cut you a bit more slack so far as missing something.

Thoroughly clean and apply preservative just as you would with a fine centerfire. Remove any preservative from the bore and breech plug internals before loading. The cleaner and dryer for loading, the better.

You best bet, with an Encore, would be to go with pistol bullets in sabots properly matched for your bore. If you cast any .45 caliber bullets, you should be able to match them to a sabot from Harvester or MMP and fire away. Even though it's quite expensive, Blackhorn 209 would be a great powder to use in that rifle as it would probably be the least likely to damage the rifle via corrosion (but still possible).

You didn't say which Encore you have - whether one of the newer variants with the quick release breech plug or the older type with a breech plug requiring a tool. Either way, always remove the breech plug for thorough cleaning being sure to clear the flash hole and flash channel of any deposits. A good grease (Amsoil food grade) or most good white lithium based grease should work - - anti-seize spreads like crazy!! so I don't much care for its use - - to coat the threads of the plug before reinstalling in the now clean threads in the barrel. An alternative is to wrap the threads in Teflon tape (white or pink depending upon plug fit).

I would leave the rifle's ramrod in the thimbles and use it only for field reloading. A good range rod such as the one sold by Knight is a great investment. It will ease loading and cleaning chores and the Knight rod has both a bore guide and an adjustable stop built in.

There are so many questions you will have and so many minor hills to climb that it may become frustrating... but that's part of the challenge of muzzleloading. It isn't rocket science so don't let it stop you.

There are lots of good writings on the net for the beginner and a Google search could lead you to many of them.

Welcome to muzzleloading. :)

[Boolseye]

Hi Folks,
Thank you all for the suggestions, insight and links. This forum always comes through, due to the great, knowledgeable people here.

The powder is triple 7 FFG. the gun is an Encore 209x50 magnum.

I will be studying your responses and following up with more questions, no doubt.
-jp