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View Full Version : Tips/hints wanted for Lee Perfect Powder Measure



berkmberk1
03-11-2007, 10:29 PM
I just got one of these for "production use". For the last twenty years or so, I've been using their dippers and an RCBS scale. That was for highpower rifle and .38/.357 with some 9mm thrown in. For accuracy, nothing beats measuring each load. But now I want to throw some seriously heavy lead, as in .45 Colt and the like. I'm not expecting, nor need, M.O.A. performance. I just want to hit what I'm aiming at for Cowboy type shooting. To that end I purchased the LPPM.

I don't think their instructions were as clear and comprehensive as they could have been or I may have missed something, but it was apparent to me that it was not as simple as just setting the thimble and metering rod marks to the right settings and "presto" perfect handloads. At first I thought maybe the thimble ratcheted the metering rod but found out otherwise. I tried to make sense of whether the scale on the metering rod had any base reference point on the body of the measure and figured out it didn't. Finally, I pretty much gave up and and used the "calibrated eyeball" method to get into the ballpark and then started throwing ten into the scale pan to narrow the gap. I only tried the measure using Unique so far (I get the feeling from other sources I've recently read that the LPPM and Unique aren't necessarily the greatest combination!) after running the obligatory full measure of powder through it to coat the parts.

One thing I think I noticed is it doesn't take much of a turn of the metering rod (1/8, 1/4 of a turn) to significantly change the resultant charge. I also notice, after wearing out my hand the other night and throwing quite a few hundred charges, that one set of ten can be noticibly heavier or lighter than the last!.

I could use some first hand knowledge/practicle instuction on the operation of this measure if someone could help.

Thanks,

Mike

454PB
03-11-2007, 11:17 PM
I'm a Lee fan, but the "Perfect" powder measure isn't. I really have trouble using it with fine grained ball powders, it leaks powder all over.

Unique is a tough one to throw in any powder measure. I own five different powder measures, and my RCBS Uniflow is the most accurate using Unique. I use the "double tap" method with Unique, striking the throw handle twice at the fill position.

JBMauser
03-11-2007, 11:46 PM
I had one and sold it on ebay. I had worked it over to perform properly but still deciided to trade up. First I would flood it with graphite dust to lube it up and also act as a static guard for the powder. Mine got vert tight and I am not sure why, gauling or ? but I took it apart and worked the edge of the plunger with 220 emmery paper and it seemed to help. When I sold it it was clocking properly and smooth to adjust but I scored two RCBS and a lyman measure on ebay. JB

C A Plater
03-12-2007, 05:01 AM
I only use mine for IMR stick powders because it does not cut grains. It leaks ball powder and does acceptable for flake powder but I prefer my Lyman or the dippers and trickle up to weight.

DaveInFloweryBranchGA
03-12-2007, 08:44 AM
I suspect, but cannot yet confirm, you'd be better off with the Lee Pro Auto Disk for the application you've chosen.

Regards,

Dave

Ranch Dog
03-12-2007, 09:21 AM
I suspect, but cannot yet confirm, you'd be better off with the Lee Pro Auto Disk for the application you've chosen.

Regards,

Dave

Thats what I was going to suggest but of course you have already bought the PPM and I'm not sure what die & press setup you are using. I have a Lee 4-hole turret press with the Auto-Disk powder measurer setup on a Lee Powder-Through-Expander die and that is what I load all my 25 and 45 ACP cases with. I use the PPM to charge all my large rifle cases.

The barrel of the PPM is calibrated in Cubic Centimeters and I've found it very accurate. Lee publishes a chart that lists the Volume Density Measurement of every powder (http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/VMD'S.pdf) out there. Using the VDM, multiply it by the desired charge to obtain the CC setting for the metering chamber. For example, the VDM of H322 is .0725 and if I wanted to drop a charge of 38.5-grains it would be... .0725 X 38.0 = 2.76 CC.

According to Lee's FAQs, the powder manufacturers can have up to a 16% difference in the density of their powders from lot to lot. I have see some large changes when opening a new jug of powder. I now calculate the given lot's VDM and mark it on the outside of the jug. That is pretty simple also, I will drop about ten charges of a given CC, for instance 2.00 CC, and weigh each on a scale to obtain the average charge in grains of the test sample. For example, I set the metering chamber at 2.0 CC with the new lot of powder and the charge being dropped is 28.0-grains... 2.0 / 28.0 = .0714 is the VDM of this lot of powder.

I use the PPM for all my large rifle load work but I think the volume of powder used for the 45 Colt would be more appropriate with the Auto-Disk. In that measurer, I use the Adjustable Charge Bar (#90792) rather than the "fixed" cavity disks that come with the unit. With the charge bar I can use the VDM of the powder to drop a specific charge in my pistol cases. The 25 ACP requires the use of Micro-Disk.

berkmberk1
03-12-2007, 08:49 PM
As far as other equip. I use an older 3 die turret. However, the PP measure is used stand alone. I have no need for THAT much production. I just want to make a 1.5-2 hr. job about an hour if I want. I figure a measure will also help to avoid cramped arms, back and the extreme tedium of using one or more scoops on 100 to 200 reloads.

Along the lines of what Ranch Dog was referring to, I believe, that this measure may be more attuned to large volume drops, has anyone used it for BP or any of the substitutes? a 30 grain charge of ff or fff obviously is a little different from a 4-8 of smokeless pistol powder.

Ranch Dog
03-12-2007, 10:48 PM
Along the lines of what Ranch Dog was referring to, I believe, that this measure may be more attuned to large volume drops, has anyone used it for BP or any of the substitutes? a 30 grain charge of ff or fff obviously is a little different from a 4-8 of smokeless pistol powder.

Looking at the Lee instructins I noticed that the VDM list that is included with that document lists PYRODEX so I suspect there might be some others.

georgeld
03-21-2007, 02:15 AM
I've got four of these less than Perfect lee measures. One for each powder i use.
Long as a small grained ball type is avoided they work great. I've only had one that for some reason started throwing erratic wt charges and they replaced it no questions when returned.

I've fought the binding and leaking problems til I gave up and used dippers. But, always went back to it because it was still more accurate. Though I always load on blocks and since these leak so much. Set them on a large cookie sheet. Once the bullets are in and the blocks are empty. I'll dump them on the sheet, then pour the powder back into the jug. Sometimes there's about a 1/4 cup of powder just from the leakage. Damned PITA, but, so far haven't had the funds to start buying other brands of measures at the price's charged.
Am strongly thinking about getting a Little Dandy for the pistols, but, haven't yet. Seems too many other things demand the little money I have to spare for this game. Like powder and primers for two of them.

One time I got p'd and sent three of them back because of the leaks and binding of the ball powders., They sent me three new one's that didn't do any better. I also have the disks and when running a big production of pistol shells I'll set that up and use it. But. mainly I use Red Dot for plinkers by the thousands. Mostly 38's.

Wish you well,

shooter575
03-21-2007, 11:47 AM
I have had a PP for 10 years or so that I use just for fff BP . For this aplication it
works real nice on the pistol and carbine loads I do with it.Within a couple tenths each throw.Now I have the old auto disc that I use with COW as a filler.It throws a OK charge but it does leak some.
I use a old 55 or a reding for my smokeless.

Hip's Ax
03-21-2007, 12:41 PM
Years ago I went from the teaspoon and scale method to a Lee Perfect PM and it was a big step up at the time but I was using strictly IMR stick powder and WW 748 ball. After months of using it and fighting the binding up and scoring problems inside the measure I saved enough scratch to buy a Lyman 55 and used that for years with both stick rifle powder and Unique and Clays but I really don't do much pistol so it was 99.9% rifle loads. Never had a complaint with the 55 except for set up time. This past summer I bought a Harrel's that I had been lusting over, man is this thing the cat's whiskers! Once again, I'm reloading almost pure rifle rounds with stick powder.

Sundogg1911
03-21-2007, 03:39 PM
I have one, but have to admit i've not used it in years. Other than a little leakage it seemed to do pretty well. :) I have a Lyman 55 that I use when loading with the Lyman Turret or my Rock chucker. I bought 15 Dillon powder measures and quick change tool heads (from an estate sale) for my Dillons. (Now i'm spoiled!) :drinks:
I don't know why I havn't Ebay'd the Lee PPM, but If I did i'm sure i'd be sorry later. I still keep toying with the idea of setting up a mobile reload bench for the range, but it's only 3 miles from my house. It may end up staying at camp with a Lee "C" press.

berkmberk1
03-21-2007, 07:41 PM
I combined some of your suggestions and did the following: I threw a bazillion charges in experimenting with adjusting charge weights, and the pressure applied to actuator handle. I got to the point where acceptable seemed to be three different sets of 10 that averaged around the same weight. (I did notice that no serious series of individual throws was identical, probably because of the disk shape of Unique). After I produced an adequate average, I took my case measuring calipers and measured from the outside edge of the thimble to the metering rod end and wrote that in my data book.

My next try is going to be with some Bullseye I have laying around. Any comments on how it works in a PPM?

Mike

DLCTEX
03-21-2007, 08:14 PM
I worked my PPM over by coating the drum with fine valve grinding compound and polishing the interior. Really cut down the leakage with the fine powders. With the larger grains I find it operates much more smoothly than my RCBS and Lyman measures, without cutting grains. Once you understand the use of the volume setings, it makes it easy to get close to the amount you need. I like the PPM and find it generally repeats more uniformly than my RCBS, I haven't used the Lyman enough to have formed an opinion yet. I use a fabric softener sheet( a used one works fine) to wipe down the measure to eliminate any static, but don't remove the black graphite on the parts as it lubricates the interior. I find it odd to hear of the problems people have as I have had so few with Lee products. Dale

Newtire
03-22-2007, 12:06 AM
I have had great luck with the Lee Perfect except that it does leak the ball powders if you have it too loose and make sure the powder container retaining screw stays tight so the hopper don't rotate & cut off your powder.

I haven't used it with any long grain stick powders but it throws 4064 and 4895 ok. I just set it and once I have it set, I throw a few charges & weigh them. I figure the first charge after the adjustment isn't going to be right so throw that fist drop back into the hopper and go with the 2nd. I have had extremely close charges thrown with mine so won't complain. Most it's off is maybe .2 grain but more like .1 or less. Beweib it or not!

Dale53
03-22-2007, 01:20 AM
This is a bit off topic but Dale's comment kind of struck a sympathetic cord:

>>>I find it odd to hear of the problems people have as I have had so few with Lee products.<<<

I, too, have had good luck with Lee Products. However, and this is a real "HOWEVER" none of us are gifted in every way. I happen to be gifted in the mechanical sense (I used to make a living trouble shooting automatic laundry equipment and machine tools and later used that same mechanical ability to good advantage when investigating auto accidents and industrial accidents (I was a major case Insurance Claims Adjuster for thirty years). I also do professional quality photographic work. I know a good picture even before I take it. However, if my life depended on it I could not draw a picture. I have a couple of artist friends that are truly great with pencils, charcoal, water color and paints. One of them is also very good mechanically but VERY rough on tools. The other can barely tie his own shoe laces. However, that does not make either of them lesser people. We just need to play to our skills.

So, the mechanically gifted will do better with ALL reloading tools and especially, maybe, Lee tools need a bit of "tender, loving, care". Those who don't have good hands maybe shouldn't be reloading at all, but some do all right if they don't have to trouble shoot their equipment.

Today, I had a problem with a Lee Pro Disc Powder measure that had been in heavy use for several years. It started hanging up, then slamming loose and in general wasn't working as well as it did when new. I took it all apart looking for wear areas or maybe "use caused" burrs. I finally found a bushing in the lever arm on the powder measure that pivots on a self tapping machine screw. The bushing was steel but unhardened, the screw was extremely hard and the threads had worn grooves in the bushing. Every time the lever cycled it would jump the threads worn into the bushing. Happily, I had an old Lee standard disc powder measure and the bushing was identical. I cannibalized the bushing and the measure is again working like a charm. I'll get a couple of those bushings my next order from F&M Reloading and keep them on hand. I use those Lee Pro Disc powder measures on my Dillon as well as on my Lee.

Everything wears out sooner or later and it helps if you know how to troubleshoot. I know many here that are very mechanical and solve their own problems but this may help someone get to the bottom of a cranky powder measure sooner rather than later. Those of you who are not blessed with a mechanical background, just hunt up a buddy who is, to help you out from time to time.

None of the above is meant to talk down to anyone, just something that I have noticed over the years. I definitely do not mean to offend anyone with this message. Sorry for the long post.

Dale53