Optimizing my NMBH for lead

[12DMAX]

I am on my journey as a (new) lead shooter and looking for some advice.

My setup:

NMBH in 45 colt
Lyman #454424 WW sized to 452 ( Sponser Bullets)
9GR unique

I am taking this one step at a time so I can understand. I just got my cylinder back from reaming. Before the reaming my throats sized from 451 to 452 and some were out of round. They are now all 4525. I do have a slight frame constriction of about .0005 and will address that also with some fire lapping. My current issue is I am getting lead deposits on my cylinder face (very minimal) and a pretty heavy deposit between my forcing cone and top strap. I have a cylinder gap of .008 when the gun is locked up, could this be the issue?

[Snapping Twig]

Perhaps the forcing cone could benefit from a bit of attention?

I always have my S&W forcing cones beveled to 11* so perhaps something along this line would help with yours.

[12DMAX]

Perhaps the forcing cone could benefit from a bit of attention?

I am hoping that is going to be the problem, much cheaper fix than a trip to the gunsmith to close that gap. I would think an .008 gap would not be mission critical.

[Rico1950]

+1 on the forcing cone. Fire lap first and then cut forcing cone to 11*.
Had the same problem when I first received my NMBhk in 45 Colt. Cylinder to Cylindersmith, then shot some pure Pb boolits with a light charge of fast powder, you want them to just barely exit the barrel (bring a bore rod in case of a stuck boolit). Finished of with an 11* cut on the forcing cone and it's a tack driver.

[EDK]

I'd be concerned about the .008 cylinder gap. It would be likely to spit some lead out the sides also...NOT GOOD! Go to lasc.us and look at Glenn Fryxell's book, page 58, about diagnosing your leading issues.

I've been doing a slow fire lap on my 44s...take a Q-tip and apply some #320 grit lapping compound inside the forcing cone before I go shooting out back. (Yes, the luxury of a backyard shooting range in the country!)

You've probably read all the usual stuff about purchased lead bullets, hard lube, etc. You might try tumble lubing your bullets AS THEY ARE with LLA or ? and see if that helps. I clean lead from my 44s by using the RANCH DOG TLC 432 265 lubed with my version of 45/45/10 and gas checked with RD's method. I went from 50/50 ALOX to Carnuba Red AND TITEGROUP to HERCO/RED DOT/HP38/POWER PISTOL with 429421 clones and other boolits and have mild leading issues in my 44s...but this also occurred as the seasons changed. I can go back to what worked as soon as I get another keg of TITEGROUP. Shooting guns stored in an unheated building at 30* and lower could also be a factor.

I'd try a few with about 7.5 of UNIQUE. My LYMAN 47th RELOADING HANDBOOK lists a maximum load of 8.5 UNIQUE in the standard loads. RUGERS will take a lot more, but you might need different powders for higher end loads.

:redneck::cbpour::2gunsfiring_v1:

[462]

Was there lead splatter prior to having the cylinder reamed? If so, the timing may be off a bit -- the chamber not properly aligned with the barrel.

[12DMAX]

I'd be concerned about the .008 cylinder gap. It would be likely to spit some lead out the sides also...NOT GOOD! Go to lasc.us and look at Glenn Fryxell's book, page 58, about diagnosing your leading issues.

I have read that article, lots of good info for sure. Thats what got me thinking about my .008 gap but wanted to get some more input on that.


Was there lead splatter prior to having the cylinder reamed? If so, the timing may be off a bit -- the chamber not properly aligned with the barrel.

I did have the same amount before reaming on the cylinders but seems to be more up top in the forcing cone/top strap area. I have checked the timing visually with a light and seems to be good. A guage would be better.

[Wireman134]

.006"-.008" is good for lead boolits many say

[12DMAX]

going to try a little bigger bullet, may not be getting a good seal in throats now.

[EDK]

going to try a little bigger bullet, may not be getting a good seal in throats now.

I do mostly "generic loads" for the 20 odd 44s I cast and load for...step kids and grand kids' guns plus mine. I run .432 or .433 if I can get the sizer die to "kiss" the boolit all the way around....a couple moulds are a bit undersize. I prefer to go to throat size or up to .001 larger if there is no problem chambering. The common leading issue seems to be from "thread choke" in the frame and the leading is right at the start of the rifling. Maybe a fire lapping party and BBQ this summer?

I really think your barrel cylinder gap is the major problem. I've had a couple that "spit" out the sides and they got a trip to the gunsmith or factory ASAP. My old favorite SUPER BLACKHAWK got some loose and I had it set to .002 gap plus end shake and head space tightened, among other things. It eliminated the spitting and now stays clean with about two or three times the round count of a larger barrel cylinder gap.

FWIW I'm kinda picky about my guns...especially the pistols. I00% reliability, good trigger and sights (BUT I'm currently shooting VAQUEROS!) and comfortable grip frame and stocks; not much for cosmetics. I just retired from a great job with the electric utility here in saint looie so I could afford to "get them done right." Unfortunately, upper level gunsmithing isn't cheap and the turn around can be a while. My favorite, Jim Stroh of ALPHA PRECISION, has a six month waiting list, but prefers to notify you two weeks in advance to ship the gun so you won't be without it for so long. The web site at ALPHA might be worth reading concerning accuracy concerns, etc.

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