Sprue plate lube

[Sendaro]

I understand that some casters use a lube on the sprue plate to help prevent a lead build up between it and the mold blocks. I had a build up of alloy starting in my last casting section, and stopped before things got bad. I cleaned all the lead from the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks (SAECO #632 single cavaity). Guess that I must have been casting too fast and the lead was smearing between the plate and the blocks. Would like to hear what experinced casters think of the idea to coat the bottom of the plate and the top of the blocks with colloidal graphite. I have CG in isopropanol, and use it as a lube and in some new rifle barrels at break-in. Thanks, Sendaro

[trk]

I've tried GRAPHITE, MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE and TITANIUM DISULFIDE. The last is by far the BEST!

[375RUGER]

you can use the CG, but there are much better things out there. I still have some Neolube in a small container that is now about 18 years old. I just don't find much use for it in the reloading room, but on occasion I use it in a pinch on non-critical equipment.

[theperfessor]

BullPlate.

[Sendaro]

Have been away from the lead pot and the molds since last winter. Now that my freezer is full of venison I have turned my attention to making up a bunch of cast bullets for my old Stevens 44 in 32-40. It is all original and outfited with a Lyman #103 Tang sight and front globe. I have mounted a Unertl 12X also on the rifle mostly for testing and an attempt at shooting some woodchucks with it. I find that the winter months is a great time to cast up a bunch of bullets. At our shooting house I can cast bullets and watch the bait we have staked out for coyotes. Life is good! The bullets are dropping out of the mold and looking A-OK! Thanks for the advise, Sendaro

[zomby woof]

Liquid Silicone, Synthetic 2 stoke oil or Bullplate.

[stubshaft]

bullplate!

[Sendaro]

Did some casting yesterday with the sprue plate and the top of the mold coated with collidal graphic. This is a SAECO single cavaty mold for the #632 bullet. I was very pleased with the way there was no lead build up on the sprue plate or the top of the mold blocks. After casting nearly 250 bullets the mold was still not showing a build up. Very happy with the results. Sendaro

[Bret4207]

I still rub the top and sprue down with a carpenters pencil. Simple, cheap, doesn't run into the cavity.

[Sendaro]

Wow! Never thought of that! Does it last long? Sendaro

[sig2009]

Husquevarna 2 cycle synthetic works for me. Cast over 1000 the other day with one application and no buildup.

[Trey45]

I'm using Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 cycle oil. It works like a champ. Use a quetip and dab a little bit where you see lead smears beginning, and it stops them dead in their tracks. You don't need much.

[Bret4207]

Wow! Never thought of that! Does it last long? Sendaro

Well, it seems to last pretty well. Only takes a second to rub it again if it looks like it needs more.

[pastorcurtis]

Does anyone use good old lithium grease for the spots on a mold that need lubing? Any problems with that?

[geargnasher]

No, but I've used Permatex High Temp brake caliper slide grease before with good results. It doesn't have a drop point. It will literally burn before it melts, which is way above casting temps. Just apply a thin film to the alignment points of a hot mould with a Q-tip and wipe it off with the clean end.

Gear

[Moonie]

I'm using Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 cycle oil. It works like a champ. Use a quetip and dab a little bit where you see lead smears beginning, and it stops them dead in their tracks. You don't need much.

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

[Trey45]

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

No I haven't, but I will now! I'm going to be making some lube with this stuff, I'm planning on following the "speed green" recipe. I'll buy some Saber outboard and try that along with the stuff I have now.

[MajorJim]

I've tried GRAPHITE, MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE and TITANIUM DISULFIDE. The last is by far the BEST!

Where does one get titanium disulfide? I am familiar with tungsten disulfide, but not titanium.

[geargnasher]

Have you tried the Saber outboard? looks like it might be better than the Professional, higher smoke/flash point and better lubricity.

The outboard formulas are on a different end of the trade-off spectrum between temperature range of use and fouling. TCW3-type oils with ashless detergents are for lower-temperature use (like outboard engines), and don't foul because the detergents burn clean, but are unable to do the same job as low-ash detergents at higher temperatures. Low-ash detergents are used in air-cooled formulas and need a lot of heat to burn off the ash or they leave a residue of metal salts behind. While this matters a lot in two-cycle engines, it may or may not matter in boolit lube. Just something to consider.

Gear

[gnoahhh]

+1 on the pencil rub. How much cheaper can you go for a substance that works?

[Circuit Rider]

BullPlate!!!! A little dab will do ya. CR

[dnotarianni]

Mobil One synthetic motor oil, Great for guns and molds. $3 a quart.

dave

[trk]

Where does one get titanium disulfide? I am familiar with tungsten disulfide, but not titanium.

You got it right, I didn't. TUNGSTEN disulfide.

[shooting on a shoestring]

A disenter here. I use Dri Slide. From the website: "Moly Dri-Plate is a molybdenum disulfide lubricant that is dispersed in a non-flammable solvent. It is designed for applications where an extreme pressure, high temperature dry lubricant is desirable." The solvent is very thin and takes the molybdenum disulfide into all the nooks and crannies. The solvent quickly evaporates with a ladle or two of lead through the mould. I use it on the sprue plates and alignment pins. Works great. A can should last close to a lifetime.

[Lefty SRH]

Where do you buy Bull plate?

[hanover67]

I tried the carpenter's pencil treatment and it worked fine. Lyman mold. No lead smearing or buildup. $.79 at my local Ace Hardware.

[Springfield]

The pencil should work fine for lead smears but don't you still need a lubricant for the pivots and the alignment pins?

[lead chucker]

What about anti seize I use that on my lee molds to lube the alignment pins. It's what the guy at lee said to use. Seems to work

[MtGun44]

Lithium grease will probably burn into nasty guck, and may get into the cavity, contaminating the
mold.

Bill

[sharpshooter81]

I used Permatex hi temp anti seize compound on my new Lee single cavity mold with no issues....works good

[HpGuy420]

Use Rapine Mold Prep for the outside of the mold and underside of the sprue plate to reduce lead-adhesion issues on the outside of the mold and reduce lead smear issues on the top of the blocks and underside of the sprue plate.

[DLCTEX]

Bullplate should be applied to the mould after it is hot with an almost dry Qtip. Less is more . I apply it to the top, bottom, and pivot of the sprue plate, then wipe with a cotton cloth if it looks wet. Also apply to the top of the blocks, a little away from the cavities, and on all alignment pins and surfaces. After several uses the need for additional applications declines as the metal is seasoned. After a few times you will know where to apply how much and your casting life will be happier. I am able to cut sprues that leave the boolit base appearing wet without smearing. That is a sign to slow down my casting rate. 4 ounces will last a lifetime, if you don't spill it or use it to make Speed Green boolit lube.

[DLCTEX]

Lefty SRH: I did a search to find a contact for Bullshop lube, but tired of the search without a good answer. I did find an address for snail mail, but don't even know if it is a current one since they moved a while back. You may try sending a PM to Bullshop. he is currently selling some other items in Swapping and Selling. It is worth the effort IMHO. I have not personally tried the High Temp Synthetic Chain Saw Gas additive. Husquvarna is a popular brand. Many have reported like results with it. Hope this helps.

[Springfield]

Lots of things will work and some actually work for a decent amount of time, but nothing I have tried will keep on working without making a mess for over 20,000 bullets, except Bullplate. It just keeps working and keeps NOT building up or making a mess of my moulds. It also doesn't smell like burning oil like some of the other ... oils... do.

[tonyjones]

Recently, Tina/Bullshop Mom has requested that they be contacted by email: bullshop@wildak.net.

Tony

[Stick_man]

+1 on Bullplate. It simply works, and works very well. Dan and Tina from The Bullshop are great folks to deal with. I just received my order of a couple pounds of Lotak and a pint of Bullplate. I should be set for a while now.

Turnaround time from sending MO to receiving order was just over 2 weeks.

[stubshaft]

Bullplate works for me.

[Lefty SRH]

I have sent Bullshop a check for some sprue lube.

How does Bull Plate compare to the sample Miha sends with his molds?

[badgeredd]

I'm using Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 cycle oil. It works like a champ. Use a quetip and dab a little bit where you see lead smears beginning, and it stops them dead in their tracks. You don't need much.

+1 or 2 or 3 or many more. I have been using Amsoil Sabre and I am very happy with it. Nice thing is one can put just a little on a que-tip and touch up the bottom of the sprue plate with a very thin coating during a long casting session and never have any problem with build up. One quart will likely last beyond my days on earth.

Edd

[casterofboolits]

I use some dry film spray lube I found at AutoZone, works great. Liquid wrench brand