Video or pics of the take down procedure of a Sharps?

[Bigbuckeye]

Just got my new Pedersoli and while I have read the manual, I still have no idea how to field strip this rifle. The manual is clearly a poor translation from Italian to English..

Does anyone have a YouTube vid or pictures of the procedure?

Thanks,

[Lead pot]

Cant get to complicated with only three parts:smile:

[Bigbuckeye]

I brought it to half cock, rotated the take down pin forward....then what?

[Seth Hawkins]

Turn it over. Remove the two screws holding the forearm to the barrel. This will expose a screw that retains the lever spring. Sometimes this spring doesn't need to be removed to get the block to drop, but removing the spring always makes it easier. So, remove that screw so that the lever spring can be removed. This will allow the lever to move freely with no tension. The lever and block should now just fall out the bottom when you turn the rifle over.

[Longwood]

Just got my new Pedersoli and while I have read the manual, I still have no idea how to field strip this rifle. The manual is clearly a poor translation from Italian to English..

Does anyone have a YouTube vid or pictures of the procedure?

Thanks,

It sounds like you may be a new shooter so I will give some advise so you and others can read it.

If you do not own a set, please get a good set of gunsmith screw drivers before you work on the gun.

Reason,,, I may want to buy it someday

Most screw drivers have tapered blades which will screw up the slot in the screws the first time you use them.
That immediately lowers the price of the gun pretty drastically because any buyer can now see that the gun had been tinkered with by a novice.

[Lead pot]

You dont need to take off the forearm.
Leave the breach closed. Rotate the pin and pull it out.
The block and extractor will drop right out.
Leaving the breach closed takes the tension off the retaining spring.

[Lead pot]

LW

When he said field stripping I dont think he meant pulling the lock apart.

[RMulhern]

These rifles ARE NOT M1s or M14s! They don't have to be torn completely apart! Make certain the bore is clean, blow the action out with air hose, maybe spray some type of canned cleaner into the innards, blow out again and then some good spray oil will work! On occasion YOU CAN take the block out, wipe off the face of the breech block and keep on shooting!!

[montana_charlie]

Here's the text copied from the manual.

2) The lever hinge pin (part. # 41) is located on the lower front of the frame on the right-hand side of the rifle. While pushing in on the tiny plunger pin, rotate the arm of the lever hinge pin forward past the plunger pin, approximately 180 degrees from its original position. Turn the rifle upside down. While rotating forward and backward a few degrees, and pulling outward, remove the lever hinge pin. After the lever hinge pin has been removed, slide the lever and the breech block up and out of the frame. To avoid that the hinge pin bumps against the forend (part. # 30), we suggest you disassemble the wood, loosen the screw (part. # 28) or remove the barrel’s bands.

Does the color help you see the light, or is the English translation still not up to snuff?

CM

[Lead pot]

:holysheep Well if the Imports would fit the wood better the hinge pin would not bump the wood. [smilie=f:

[Bigbuckeye]

Here's the text copied from the manual.

2) The lever hinge pin (part. # 41) is located on the lower front of the frame on the right-hand side of the rifle. While pushing in on the tiny plunger pin, rotate the arm of the lever hinge pin forward past the plunger pin, approximately 180 degrees from its original position. Turn the rifle upside down. While rotating forward and backward a few degrees, and pulling outward, remove the lever hinge pin. After the lever hinge pin has been removed, slide the lever and the breech block up and out of the frame. To avoid that the hinge pin bumps against the forend (part. # 30), we suggest you disassemble the wood, loosen the screw (part. # 28) or remove the barrel’s bands.

Does the color help you see the light, or is the English translation still not up to snuff?

CM

I got it now...thanks! I missunderstood that I needed to remove the lever pin completely. When it comes to firearms...or anything else with intricate pieces/parts, I never try to force anything until I completely understand what I am doing.

[Bigbuckeye]

It sounds like you may be a new shooter so I will give some advise so you and others can read it.

If you do not own a set, please get a good set of gunsmith screw drivers before you work on the gun.

Reason,,, I may want to buy it someday

Most screw drivers have tapered blades which will screw up the slot in the screws the first time you use them.
That immediately lowers the price of the gun pretty drastically because any buyer can now see that the gun had been tinkered with by a novice.

Just new to Sharps rifles...

[NickSS]

I own several sharps rifles and rarely ever field strip it. After shooting it I clean the barrel and whip down the action and exterior of the rifle with an oily rag. About the only time I take out the breach block is when the rifle is used in the rain and I want to make sure there is no water trapped in crevices. I also take the lock off and well as the fore end for the same reason. The only sharps I take apart regularly is my 1863 and 1859 percussion rifles as they need to be detailed striped and cleaned every time you shoot it.

[Bigbuckeye]

First I wanted to make sure that I completely understood how the rifle operates and second I wanted to clean and move any of the factory preservatives. Like you, I don't see any need for any regular sliding block removal.

[montana_charlie]

and second I wanted to clean and move any of the factory preservatives.
Did you remove and clean the firing pin?
CM

[Bigbuckeye]

No, should I?

[montana_charlie]

I wanted to clean and move any of the factory preservatives.
Did you remove and clean the firing pin?
CM

No, should I?
I just wanted to spotlight the fact that the firing pin is often overlooked. It usually gets ignored until it suffers from a problem of some kind.

If you take the trouble to remove and clean the breechblock, may as well open up the firing pin cavity for cleaning and inspection.

That (at least) means it won't be frozen shut when you need to replace a broken firing pin (in the field) with the spare that you carry.
Doing it on some kind of regular basis also keeps you in practice for 'not losing the spring' when you slide the plate open.

CM

[Freightman]

It sounds like you may be a new shooter so I will give some advise so you and others can read it.

If you do not own a set, please get a good set of gunsmith screw drivers before you work on the gun.

Reason,,, I may want to buy it someday

Most screw drivers have tapered blades which will screw up the slot in the screws the first time you use them.
That immediately lowers the price of the gun pretty drastically because any buyer can now see that the gun had been tinkered with by a novice.
Good advice! I traded for a Shiloh that had been worked on with a set of regular drivers, the screws were boogered up bad, I reworked them as good as I could but still not perfect. A good set of drivers is cheap compared to a $2-3000 rifle, false economy to cut corners on tools.

[Longwood]

Good advice! I traded for a Shiloh that had been worked on with a set of regular drivers, the screws were boogered up bad, I reworked them as good as I could but still not perfect. A good set of drivers is cheap compared to a $2-3000 rifle, false economy to cut corners on tools.

Even the screw driver sets with the interchangable bits can be a HUGE problem.
I had a tip break on one that I was working on a very tight screw with and when it went skidding acrass the gun, i almost cried.
That was one of the expensive Chapman sets too.
I was at a friends house recently and he had one of the Pachmyr sets and on one of the bits, the end simply twisted and boogered the screw.
Thanks to the web, screws are much, much easier that they used to be to find.

[waksupi]

To avoid buggering screws, grind the bit to fit. Put the screwdriver in the slot, and put a lot of weight on it with your left hand. With your right hand, tap the end of the driver with a small rawhide mallet, using it as an impact driver. It will help get out stubborn screws.