I Have To Share My Experience, W/ Question - Lyman #358156

[DODGEM250]

I do not have my own 38/357 mold yet, though I am shopping for one, so, I decided to borrow my neighbors old Lyman SWC #358156 and "for the heck of it" cast up a few bullets while I had some free time this evening. All of my other molds are Lee and aluminum of course. This is my first experience with a Lyman mold, and with all due respect to those out there that prefer Lyman over Lee, I honestly can say, I'm not impressed. However, I also don't know much about the Lyman molds, but, with this experience, I don't think I would buy one.

The first thing I noticed is how the lead sticks to the mold, more so, than on my Lee molds, is this the way Lyman molds are ? Can't be.

The second thing I noticed is that this mold had a tough time making flat bases, a lot of the bases came out rounded, and went back on the pot.

The really annoying thing is those short little handles. Are all Lyman handle the same size ? I mean these things are tiny compared to my Lee handle lengths.

It's also a single cavity mold, and after 50 bullets I said "screw this" I want a double cavity.

[Mk42gunner]

All molds are different, in my opinion. I have four or five sets of Lyman handles, none of them are the same. One set of small handles is about a foot long the rest are the shorter handles, but they all close differently when a set of blocks are in them.

I have a small SC in 313445 that the only way I ever got decent boolits from it was to pressure fill it from a full Lee 4-20. I also have a small SC in 308284 that can't seem to drop a bad boolit, no matter how it is filled.

I almost forgot, I also have a small SC 358429HP that I bought from a member here, missing the HP pin. After making a pin; it drops good boolits, but boy is it fun keeping a small SC mold and HP pin hot.

I think the only single cavity molds Lyman makes now are for holow points or hollow based boolits, and they are in the double cavity blocks.

Robert

[gasboffer]

I have the Lyman 358156 double cavity. Works great! No problems and is very accurate in several pistols and .357 Lever-action carbine. Have killed a lot of deer with this boolet in .35
Rem. rifle.

[jimkim]

I have a few of both. The only thing that is certain is that every one of then regardless of brand or even if it's the same mold number, has a "personality" of it's own. That's the long way of saying I agree with Mk42gunner. One thing I've noticed is that I have more trouble casting lighter bullets than heavier ones. The 125 and lighter bullets give me fits. Brand has nothing to do with it. The other thing is if you are turning out good bullets, make as many as you possibly can in one sitting. The next time around for me is usually nerve racking. My favorite moulds are a couple of single cavity Ideal moulds, my two cavity Lachmiller, and two(one Lee one RD) of my six cavity moulds. The others are downright finicky. I'm thinking of moving the Lachmiller up on the list. Every bullet seems to look like it's chromed.

[felix]

If I were a deer hunter, the 358156 would be my choice too, Gasboffer. The reason would be to get the trajectory flatter for another 50 yards or so. My family has seldom killed deer with anything weighing more than 150 grains after smokeless powder has come aboard for the masses. ... felix

[beanflip]

A mold is like a woman treat it good it treats you good. If you treat it bad it will %&#* in your face. :groner:

[462]

Don't condem the mould or Lyman. I may be that your neighbor hasn't learned, or doesn't want to learn how to get the best from his mould. Too, it may be that he has, and can cast perfect boolits, but you didn't have the time nor inclination to learn its quirks. As has been stated, each mould has it's own personality -- it's up to the caster to understand it and then capitalize on it.

As with any casting or reloading tool, single cavity moulds serve a purpose. I have an Ideal 308291 single cavity that is a treat to cast with.

[alfloyd]

I have a 4 cavity mold in 357156. I love this mold, but it is not as easy to get good boolits from as an aluminum. Reason is that it takes a longer time to get the steel mold up to temp to make good boolits. Your single cavity mold need to be ran fast to keep it hot. After the iron molds get up to casting temp they cast great boolits for me. I think that the rounded bottoms is a sign that your mold is too cold or your lead is too cold. I use a RCBS bottom spout pot and it works great with the 4 cavity 357156 mold. I have not noticed the lead sticking to the mold more with iron over aluminum molds.

Just my own opinion.

Lafaun

[DODGEM250]

Don't condem the mould or Lyman. I may be that your neighbor hasn't learned, or doesn't want to learn how to get the best from his mould. Too, it may be that he has, and can cast perfect boolits, but you didn't have the time nor inclination to learn its quirks. As has been stated, each mould has it's own personality -- it's up to the caster to understand it and then capitalize on it.

As with any casting or reloading tool, single cavity moulds serve a purpose. I have an Ideal 308291 single cavity that is a treat to cast with.

I won't condemn Lyman, I will condemn this mold, it belongs in the trash. I'm just glad I borrowed it and I didn't buy it, I be... well, I can't say it here but it's an explicative for sure. I babied this mold, lubed it, heated it, loosened the sprue to lift it after pouring to hopefully fill the base void, nothing worked.

After 2+ hours and only getting 60 half-*** bullets, I gave up and just walked away from this mold. I would rather buy the bullets already made and lubed with GC's instead of playing with this little baby bullets anyway.

[pmer]

[QUOTE=DODGEM250;1543559]I do not have my own 38/357 mold yet, though I am shopping for one, so, I decided to borrow my neighbors old Lyman SWC #358156 and "for the heck of it" cast up a few bullets while I had some free time this evening. All of my other molds are Lee and aluminum of course. This is my first experience with a Lyman mold, and with all due respect to those out there that prefer Lyman over Lee, I honestly can say, I'm not impressed. However, I also don't know much about the Lyman molds, but, with this experience, I don't think I would buy one.

The first thing I noticed is how the lead sticks to the mold, more so, than on my Lee molds, is this the way Lyman molds are ? Can't be.

The second thing I noticed is that this mold had a tough time making flat bases, a lot of the bases came out rounded, and went back on the pot.

The really annoying thing is those short little handles. Are all Lyman handle the same size ? I mean these things are tiny compared to my Lee handle lengths.

It's also a single cavity mold, and after 50 bullets I said "screw this" I want a double cavity.[/QUOTE


I was having the same issues with base not filling out on a 2 cavity 358156. It was the one near the sprew plate screw. It only did it for one batch of boolits. The possible causes I later concluded were some oil in the cavity and or the melt temperature was a little low.

The next batch was fine and the mold made great boolits. Hope this helps.

[DODGEM250]

I have a 4 cavity mold in 357156. I love this mold, but it is not as easy to get good boolits from as an aluminum. Reason is that it takes a longer time to get the steel mold up to temp to make good boolits. Your single cavity mold need to be ran fast to keep it hot. After the iron molds get up to casting temp they cast great boolits for me. I think that the rounded bottoms is a sign that your mold is too cold or your lead is too cold. I use a RCBS bottom spout pot and it works great with the 4 cavity 357156 mold. I have not noticed the lead sticking to the mold more with iron over aluminum molds.

Just my own opinion.

Lafaun

I 100% agree with that statement. I also tried higher lead temps, lower lead temps, both with the mold and with the lead. I held my time before I cut the mold open to drop the bullets, I tried backfilling the first pour, I did everything and some things against the normal practices of casting boolits, nothing worked. I said, "This is (*U$^ing ridiculous"... and as I said before, I set the mold to the side, and walked away from it.

HOWEVER, I did turnout about 50 each of the Lyman .44 #429244 255gr and they turned out great. But, those little baby boolits would not drop for the best efforts in the world. I had no intentions of casting the .44's BUT when my neighbor gave me the handles, the .44 blocks were already on there, so... before casting the .38 I just went ahead and made some of his .44's

Glad I did because some one gave me a fresh batch of 50 .44 Mag cases, cleaned primed, and polished, for free. People just give this stuff away, so, I may as well reload the fresh box of 50 I got today.

[Bullwolf]

I have a Lyman 358311 2 cavity mold that I like to use for 38/357. I also have a Lyman 356402 9mm TC mold that functions fine. Both of those Lyman molds are very decent casters, and in my opinion they are much more solidly crafted than the economical, yet higher production (faster casting) Lee 6 cavity aluminum molds.

My Lyman molds really shine when they are pre-heated on my cheap electric hotplate with a funky old skill saw blade set on top. Using the hotplate as a mold and ingot pre-warmer is really convenient for me, especially when I'm casting with 2 molds at the same time.

I wouldn't condemn all Lyman molds, or that specific design just because of 1 bad egg. Maybe it was just abused a bit before you got to it.

- Bullwolf

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_187904f1112d92fd48.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3437)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_187904f11132369454.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3438)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_187904f1115e1a2914.jpg (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3440)

[DODGEM250]

I have a Lyman 358311 2 cavity mold that I like to use for 38/357. I also have a Lyman 356402 9mm TC mold that functions fine. Both of those Lyman molds are very decent casters, and in my opinion they are much more solidly crafted than the economical, yet higher production (faster casting) Lee 6 cavity aluminum molds.

My Lyman molds really shine when they are pre-heated on my cheap electric hotplate with a funky old skill saw blade set on top. Using the hotplate as a mold and ingot pre-warmer is really convenient for me, especially when I'm casting with 2 molds at the same time.

I wouldn't condemn all Lyman molds, or that specific design just because of 1 bad egg. Maybe it was just abused a bit before you got to it.

- Bullwolf


Like I said in the above reply... The .44 blocks made great bullets, the .38 blocks were useless.

[Bret4207]

I won't condemn Lyman, I will condemn this mold, it belongs in the trash. I'm just glad I borrowed it and I didn't buy it, I be... well, I can't say it here but it's an explicative for sure. I babied this mold, lubed it, heated it, loosened the sprue to lift it after pouring to hopefully fill the base void, nothing worked.

After 2+ hours and only getting 60 half-*** bullets, I gave up and just walked away from this mold. I would rather buy the bullets already made and lubed with GC's instead of playing with this little baby bullets anyway.

To be blunt, and not meaning any offense, you just aren't willing to take the time or you don't have the knowledge of the various ways you can get a mould to working right. That fine, but if you play with it and your mould temp I bet you'd have good castings after you figured it out. My particular 358156 wants an air drop gap of about an inch from the spout and to one side of the sprue hole. I get perfect boolits with complete fill out once the mould is up to temp.

There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole. But, it is kind of refreshing to see someone trash LYman instead of Lee! They all have their quirks and if you can't/won't figure them out it's very frustrating.

[DODGEM250]

To be blunt, and not meaning any offense, you just aren't willing to take the time or you don't have the knowledge of the various ways you can get a mould to working right. That fine, but if you play with it and your mould temp I bet you'd have good castings after you figured it out. My particular 358156 wants an air drop gap of about an inch from the spout and to one side of the sprue hole. I get perfect boolits with complete fill out once the mould is up to temp.

There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole. But, it is kind of refreshing to see someone trash LYman instead of Lee! They all have their quirks and if you can't/won't figure them out it's very frustrating.

No offense taken at all, I understand you are "cynical, contrary, opinionated and cranky." But, I tried everything. I even made up a few things LOL.

I'm not trashing Lyman as a whole, but, this set of blocks are junk. When I decide to buy a mold for doing my own 38/357 bullets it will be a Lee, why ?, I don't see any advantage to buying a Lyman mold for $65.00 when a Lee costs half that and does just as good, if not, better in my opinion. Slightly off topic, but, it's like buying one expensive watch because you buy something with a specific name on it, instead of buying a couple cheaper watches that still tell you the time of day.

Seriously, what are you paying for when you buy "Lyman" ? The name mostly as far as I'm concerned. (now, back to the topic)

I'm not here to trash Lyman. I am not a Lee Mold Groupie. I am simply stating my experience and I'm not impressed with the "this" mold.

[GP100man]

I cast with Lyman & Lee molds & have good results mostly .

I store my molds in a airtite container with desicant just as I finished with em .

But every mold I borrow or use for the first time I have fill out or base problems from oils or some kind of residues left behind from cleaners.

I don`t look for "perfect boolits until the 3rd heat cycle (either casting or hot plate) of the mold to get all the hydracarbons out of the pours of the metal.

I`ve read the OP twice & saw no proceedures of cleaning or preheating the mold.
Cleaning & prepping the mold saves me a lot of recycling lead & usually better boolits faster.

Venting is easily over looked , pace of pour ,speed of alloy , temp of alloy & many more things play a part in achieving good results .

My official WAG is ya were looking at each boolit ,thus letting the mold kool off , as it sounds it barely got to temp.

Steel molds were a BIG change for me also, more time for the steel to heat up mostly ,but cured that with a hotplate, just gotta remember to plug it in !!!

WELCOME to :cbpour: Drag up a chair & visit a spell !!!

[DODGEM250]

I cast with Lyman & Lee molds & have good results mostly .

I store my molds in a airtite container with desicant just as I finished with em .

But every mold I borrow or use for the first time I have fill out or base problems from oils or some kind of residues left behind from cleaners.

I don`t look for "perfect boolits until the 3rd heat cycle (either casting or hot plate) of the mold to get all the hydracarbons out of the pours of the metal.

I`ve read the OP twice & saw no proceedures of cleaning or preheating the mold.
Cleaning & prepping the mold saves me a lot of recycling lead & usually better boolits faster.

Venting is easily over looked , pace of pour ,speed of alloy , temp of alloy & many more things play a part in achieving good results .

My official WAG is ya were looking at each boolit ,thus letting the mold kool off , as it sounds it barely got to temp.

Steel molds were a BIG change for me also, more time for the steel to heat up mostly ,but cured that with a hotplate, just gotta remember to plug it in !!!

WELCOME to :cbpour: Drag up a chair & visit a spell !!!

I did the cleaning, prepping, lubing, ect. Tried high temps, low temps, quick drops, slow drops, you name it I did it, nothing seemed to work with this mold block after 2 hours. You might want to read the whole thread instead of just the OP... ?

[Pigslayer]

I've been using the Lyman 358156 in single cavity for 30 years. Never a problem. For the best part of those years I used the old Lyman Lead Pot, a propane torch & Lyman Lead Dipper.

[HangFireW8]

I did the cleaning, prepping, lubing, ect. Tried high temps, low temps, quick drops, slow drops, you name it I did it, nothing seemed to work with this mold block after 2 hours. You might want to read the whole thread instead of just the OP... ?

I don't see that you tried inspecting for burrs or lapping. Maybe u did but I didn't see it mentioned.

HF

[happy7]

First off, iron and aluminum just cast different. When I was a new caster, I started with Lee. I got pretty comfortable casting with a Lee mold. Then I got my first Lyman. It was a learning curve. The first few times I cast with it were not too successful. But then the first few times with a Lee weren't too successful either.

Now I cast more bullets a day than probably most here cast in month. And I have dozens of both Lyman and Lee molds. For someone who has only cast with a few molds, it not possible to make accurate generalizations about a certain brand of mold. I have had issues with all brands of mold, even the hallowed H&G. I will also say that issues with either Lyman or Lee molds are not unusual, but normal. In fact, I can't say that of the over 100 molds I have that I have had many cast really well the first time. Again, the question is not what brand, but how good a mold is it. Now, I am not saying that some brands are not generally better than others. But if you get a good one, take care of it. Like an accurate firearm, a really good mold is a treasure. Some give good bullets easily, and others require more technique and work. A really well working mold is a real joy to use.

Bottom line is: Give me a GOOD mold from either brand. I have had bad Lee molds and I have had bad lyman molds. Sometimes I can work with them and make them good. Sometimes I have to give up and get something else. Having used different types of aluminum and iron and brass, I will say that I will pay more for a well cut iron mold for really good bullets. For really cranking out bullets in a hurry, give me a good Lee six cavity. Too bad they don't make an eight cavity!

When I can't get a mold to work right, I spend some quality time here on Cast Boolits with the search engine. Odds are that within a short time you will find an assortment of ideas, one or a combination of which will have you casting great bullets in short order. In the case of the base not filling out, if the mold is really clean, then cutting a v into the parting line to make a vent at the top of the mold will usually cure the problem. Of course you can't do this to your neighbors mold, but it works very well. Pressure casting is also another solution, and you should fill till you see lead jumping back up out of the mold. I am guessing that this is quite possibly your problem, due to the smaller holes in the Lyman sprue plate. Also make sure the sprue is big enough. These are just some of the possible solutions.

As far as the lead sticking to the mold, I have never ever seen this happen with an iron mold. With brass, yes, but not with iron. Or do you mean the face of the mold? That is different, but will happen with any type mold. But not in the cavities. If you mean the bullets are sticking, then the mold may have picked up some burs or imperfections.

The handles on the Lyman one and two cavity molds, the older style, are among my favorites. They open wider, and are quicker to use than the Lee. You can manipulate them one handed, and anytime I find a good deal on them, I snap them up.

[Bret4207]

No offense taken at all, I understand you are "cynical, contrary, opinionated and cranky." But, I tried everything. I even made up a few things LOL.

I'm not trashing Lyman as a whole, but, this set of blocks are junk. When I decide to buy a mold for doing my own 38/357 bullets it will be a Lee, why ?, I don't see any advantage to buying a Lyman mold for $65.00 when a Lee costs half that and does just as good, if not, better in my opinion. Slightly off topic, but, it's like buying one expensive watch because you buy something with a specific name on it, instead of buying a couple cheaper watches that still tell you the time of day.

Seriously, what are you paying for when you buy "Lyman" ? The name mostly as far as I'm concerned. (now, back to the topic)

I'm not here to trash Lyman. I am not a Lee Mold Groupie. I am simply stating my experience and I'm not impressed with the "this" mold.

No problem. I understand the feeling, I despise Lee BP pots. But they work way too well for way too many other people to say they are junk. You just found one that wouldn't work for you.

I've found the older Lymans easier to work with than the new ones.

[cbrick]

The second thing I noticed is that this mold had a tough time making flat bases, a lot of the bases came out rounded, and went back on the pot.

The single most common cause of rounded bases is a sprue plate that is too cool. Stop inspecting your bullets as you cast, the sprue is cooling off fast because it has far less mass to hold heat than the mold blocks. The next would be incomplete pour to allow the base to fill out properly. Kill two birds at one time and pour an extra large sprue puddle, it will add heat to the sprue plate and give the bullet base alloy to draw from. Keep the mold closed (including the sprue plate) and full of alloy as much as possible. Cast faster.


It's also a single cavity mold, and after 50 bullets I said "screw this" I want a double cavity.

Reading your posts in this thread it seems that you have made up your mind, this mold is junk and nothing is going to change your mind. Perhaps you are simply trying talk yourself into buying a new mold.

Rick

[cbrick]

I did the cleaning, prepping, lubing, ect. Tried high temps, low temps, quick drops, slow drops, you name it I did it, nothing seemed to work with this mold block after 2 hours.

Tell ya what Dodge, I'll make you an offer. Send me this mold and within a week I'll send it back to you with 50 bullets cast from it. I'll even pay the return shipping so all it will cost you is shipping to me. How's that sound?

Rick

[Recluse]

There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.

Bret,

Truer, more accurate words have never been written on this forum. This statement should probably be a sticky emblazened right under Lady Boolit.

Thing is, the same philosophy and attitude applies to reloading: There is a lot more to it than cramming in a primer, dumping in some powder and slapping a projectile on top.


I did the cleaning, prepping, lubing, ect. Tried high temps, low temps, quick drops, slow drops, you name it I did it, nothing seemed to work with this mold block after 2 hours. You might want to read the whole thread instead of just the OP... ?

Some friendly advice from an old-timer. . .

A. The member you're replying to in a snot-nosed manner has been around a lot longer than you, has cast and reloaded a lot longer than you, and has helped out a lot more members--both old and new--than you.

B. When you, the original poster, reply/respond after virtually EVERY post, you look combative, unwilling to listen, read or learn and we've learned over the years to gradually begin ignoring such members.

C. This is a public forum and everyone has more than their right to an opinion and to their thoughts and observations.

D. We've also learned over the years that what constitutes "cleaning" or "mold prep" or "alloy composition/temp" to new casters is often quite different than what it constitutes to some who have been casting for over thirty or forty years.

E. Sniping back with comments of (paraphrasing) "Try reading the original post and comprehending, won't ya" ain't gonna get you anywhere except on a list.

I've used that exact same mold, way more than once, and had one of the same issues you had. The solution to it has already been posted here. But since you seem to already have it figured out, go ahead and give the mold back to your neighbor and keep convincing yourself it's the problem.

:coffee:

[DODGEM250]

The single most common cause of rounded bases is a sprue plate that is too cool. ( my next option would be to have the sprue melting...)

Stop inspecting your bullets as you cast, ( I'm not. The round bases are rather obvious when they drop.) the sprue is cooling off fast because it has far less mass to hold heat than the mold blocks.

The next would be incomplete pour (hardly the case here) to allow the base to fill out properly. Kill two birds at one time and pour an extra large sprue puddle, ( yeah, did that too. ) it will add heat to the sprue plate and give the bullet base alloy to draw from. Keep the mold closed (including the sprue plate) and full of alloy as much as possible. Cast faster. ( been there.)



Reading your posts in this thread it seems that you have made up your mind, this mold is junk and nothing is going to change your mind. Perhaps you are simply trying talk yourself into buying a new mold.

Your so far off that assumption it's sad. The reason I borrowed the mold was so I didn't have to fork out for a new one. I've tried everything and no I have not only cast with this mold. The bullets from the .44 blocks came out great. I changed to the 38 blocks and nothing made a good bullet. It's the blocks, not me or my processes. It's almost like the sprue is creating an air bubble so the base does not fill in.

Rick

Yes. I blame this specific mold. None of my other molds have this issue.

[DODGEM250]

Bret,

Truer, more accurate words have never been written on this forum. This statement should probably be a sticky emblazened right under Lady Boolit.

Thing is, the same philosophy and attitude applies to reloading: There is a lot more to it than cramming in a primer, dumping in some powder and slapping a projectile on top.



Some friendly advice from a self-proclaimed know-it-all...

A. The member you're replying to in a snot-nosed manner has been around a lot longer than you, has cast and reloaded a lot longer than you, and has helped out a lot more members--both old and new--than you.

B. When you, the original poster, reply/respond after virtually EVERY post, you look combative, unwilling to listen, read or learn and we've learned over the years to gradually begin ignoring such members.

C. This is a public forum and everyone has more than their right to an opinion and to their thoughts and observations.

D. We've also learned over the years that what constitutes "cleaning" or "mold prep" or "alloy composition/temp" to new casters is often quite different than what it constitutes to some who have been casting for over thirty or forty years.

E. Sniping back with comments of (paraphrasing) "Try reading the original post and comprehending, won't ya" ain't gonna get you anywhere except on a list.

I've used that exact same mold, way more than once, and had one of the same issues you had. The solution to it has already been posted here. But since you seem to already have it figured out, go ahead and give the mold back to your neighbor and keep convincing yourself it's the problem.

:coffee:

Not sure how you come up with these statements, however, you are out of line. You have a great day as well, sir.

[DODGEM250]

No problem. I understand the feeling, I despise Lee BP pots. But they work way too well for way too many other people to say they are junk. You just found one that wouldn't work for you.

I've found the older Lymans easier to work with than the new ones.

This mold does have some years on it. It's a single cavity and I could not begin to guess the age of it. I know my neighbor said he has not used it in at least 15+ years. But like I said, the .44 blocks that were on the handles before I took them off to install the 38 blocks worked great and they are of the same age as the 38's. These 38 blocks are just awful.

[DODGEM250]

I don't see that you tried inspecting for burrs or lapping. Maybe u did but I didn't see it mentioned.

HF

Yes sir, did all that too.

[DODGEM250]

First off, iron and aluminum just cast different. When I was a new caster, I started with Lee. I got pretty comfortable casting with a Lee mold. Then I got my first Lyman. It was a learning curve. The first few times I cast with it were not too successful. But then the first few times with a Lee weren't too successful either.

Now I cast more bullets a day than probably most here cast in month. And I have dozens of both Lyman and Lee molds. For someone who has only cast with a few molds, it not possible to make accurate generalizations about a certain brand of mold. I have had issues with all brands of mold, even the hallowed H&G. I will also say that issues with either Lyman or Lee molds are not unusual, but normal. In fact, I can't say that of the over 100 molds I have that I have had many cast really well the first time. Again, the question is not what brand, but how good a mold is it. Now, I am not saying that some brands are not generally better than others. But if you get a good one, take care of it. Like an accurate firearm, a really good mold is a treasure. Some give good bullets easily, and others require more technique and work. A really well working mold is a real joy to use.

Bottom line is: Give me a GOOD mold from either brand. I have had bad Lee molds and I have had bad lyman molds. Sometimes I can work with them and make them good. Sometimes I have to give up and get something else. Having used different types of aluminum and iron and brass, I will say that I will pay more for a well cut iron mold for really good bullets. For really cranking out bullets in a hurry, give me a good Lee six cavity. Too bad they don't make an eight cavity!

When I can't get a mold to work right, I spend some quality time here on Cast Boolits with the search engine. Odds are that within a short time you will find an assortment of ideas, one or a combination of which will have you casting great bullets in short order. In the case of the base not filling out, if the mold is really clean, then cutting a v into the parting line to make a vent at the top of the mold will usually cure the problem. Of course you can't do this to your neighbors mold, but it works very well. Pressure casting is also another solution, and you should fill till you see lead jumping back up out of the mold. I am guessing that this is quite possibly your problem, due to the smaller holes in the Lyman sprue plate. Also make sure the sprue is big enough. These are just some of the possible solutions.

As far as the lead sticking to the mold, I have never ever seen this happen with an iron mold. With brass, yes, but not with iron. Or do you mean the face of the mold? That is different, but will happen with any type mold. But not in the cavities. If you mean the bullets are sticking, then the mold may have picked up some burs or imperfections.

The handles on the Lyman one and two cavity molds, the older style, are among my favorites. They open wider, and are quicker to use than the Lee. You can manipulate them one handed, and anytime I find a good deal on them, I snap them up.

This I understand as well, but, these are steel blocks. Not sure where the iron came from you're referring to.

[DODGEM250]

First off, iron and aluminum just cast different. When I was a new caster, I started with Lee. I got pretty comfortable casting with a Lee mold. Then I got my first Lyman. It was a learning curve. The first few times I cast with it were not too successful. But then the first few times with a Lee weren't too successful either.

Now I cast more bullets a day than probably most here cast in month. And I have dozens of both Lyman and Lee molds. For someone who has only cast with a few molds, it not possible to make accurate generalizations about a certain brand of mold. I have had issues with all brands of mold, even the hallowed H&G. I will also say that issues with either Lyman or Lee molds are not unusual, but normal. In fact, I can't say that of the over 100 molds I have that I have had many cast really well the first time. Again, the question is not what brand, but how good a mold is it. Now, I am not saying that some brands are not generally better than others. But if you get a good one, take care of it. Like an accurate firearm, a really good mold is a treasure. Some give good bullets easily, and others require more technique and work. A really well working mold is a real joy to use.

Bottom line is: Give me a GOOD mold from either brand. I have had bad Lee molds and I have had bad lyman molds. Sometimes I can work with them and make them good. Sometimes I have to give up and get something else. Having used different types of aluminum and iron and brass, I will say that I will pay more for a well cut iron mold for really good bullets. For really cranking out bullets in a hurry, give me a good Lee six cavity. Too bad they don't make an eight cavity!

This what it is boiling down to. I even walked away and came back and gave it a fresh attempt. Same results. I use all of my other molds and these steel blocks on the Lyman and they all work great, this one 38 mold is just not doing it.

When I can't get a mold to work right, I spend some quality time here on Cast Boolits with the search engine. Odds are that within a short time you will find an assortment of ideas, one or a combination of which will have you casting great bullets in short order. In the case of the base not filling out, if the mold is really clean, then cutting a v into the parting line to make a vent (this is what got me to the point of loosening the sprue plate screw enough to hold it up enough to try to remove the air pocket at the top if there was one, but, it didn't matter) at the top of the mold will usually cure the problem. Of course you can't do this to your neighbors mold, but it works very well. Pressure casting is also another solution, and you should fill till you see lead jumping back up out of the mold. I am guessing that this is quite possibly your problem, due to the smaller holes in the Lyman sprue plate. Also make sure the sprue is big enough. These are just some of the possible solutions.

As far as the lead sticking to the mold, I have never ever seen this happen with an iron mold. With brass, yes, but not with iron. Or do you mean the face of the mold? That is different, but will happen with any type mold. But not in the cavities. If you mean the bullets are sticking, then the mold may have picked up some burs or imperfections.

The handles on the Lyman one and two cavity molds, the older style, are among my favorites. They open wider, and are quicker to use than the Lee. You can manipulate them one handed, and anytime I find a good deal on them, I snap them up.

However. I appreciate the replies and ideas from the guys willing to offer help, but, it's now headed toward being off topic at this point.

[DODGEM250]

Bret,

Truer, more accurate words have never been written on this forum. This statement should probably be a sticky emblazened right under Lady Boolit.

Thing is, the same philosophy and attitude applies to reloading: There is a lot more to it than cramming in a primer, dumping in some powder and slapping a projectile on top.



Some friendly advice from an old-timer. . .

A. The member you're replying to in a snot-nosed manner has been around a lot longer than you, has cast and reloaded a lot longer than you, and has helped out a lot more members--both old and new--than you.

B. When you, the original poster, reply/respond after virtually EVERY post, you look combative, unwilling to listen, read or learn and we've learned over the years to gradually begin ignoring such members.

C. This is a public forum and everyone has more than their right to an opinion and to their thoughts and observations.

D. We've also learned over the years that what constitutes "cleaning" or "mold prep" or "alloy composition/temp" to new casters is often quite different than what it constitutes to some who have been casting for over thirty or forty years.

E. Sniping back with comments of (paraphrasing) "Try reading the original post and comprehending, won't ya" ain't gonna get you anywhere except on a list.

I've used that exact same mold, way more than once, and had one of the same issues you had. The solution to it has already been posted here. But since you seem to already have it figured out, go ahead and give the mold back to your neighbor and keep convincing yourself it's the problem.

:coffee:

Just so we're clear. "Snot-nosed manner" was not intended. If you'll notice, the reply was ended with a "?" It appeared as though the reply was posted without actually reading the previous threads, therefore, I just wanted ask if he actually read my previous statement, it did not appear so from his reply. If you took it as a snot-nosed comment, you're forgiven sir.

Also, I am not new casting bullets, I am however getting back in to the hobby, so please, do not assume I have been doing this only since tomorrow.

[Recluse]

My wife and I were at this parade one Saturday morning. It was on Main Street in our small town and the local high school band was marching in it.

Watching the band come marching down the street, our neighbor turned to my wife and said, "Why would you look at that? Everyone in that band is marching out of step except for my little Johnny."

*Sigh*

:coffee:

[OuchHot!]

I have had a great single cavity Lyman 358156 that convinced me that the design of the bullet is worth having around. If you feel the same way inspite of your experience with a problem mold, I suggest that you get on the group buy from Mihec. He builds a very fine mold. You can have it built the way YOU want it.

[Sonnypie]

This isn't worth my time.
I have a Lyman single on Lee commercial handles.
Casts beautiful boolits!

Bring to mind the adage about glass hammers and broken anvils... :violin:

[DODGEM250]

This isn't worth my time.
I have a Lyman single on Lee commercial handles.
Casts beautiful boolits!

Bring to mind the adage about glass hammers and broken anvils... :violin:

So what you're saying is, I need to put Lee handles on this Lyman mold so the basses will come out flat and level ? I knew I missed something. The dang handles is the problem. LMAO

[Sonnypie]

What I'm saying is you are having a tantrum because you borrow somebodies mold, then damn the mold and company that makes it, including the handles.
Quite obviously others don't have the troubles you are.
Nor do they continue to carry on with nonsense like you do.
So take a look in the mirror, there is the problem with the mold.

If you knew sh!t from Sh!nola, you would have worked with it, and around it.
You might even have called the guy you borrowed it from.
But Noooo....
Do you even know what carp you were dumping into it? Or was it just a conglomeration of carp you gathered up?

You are an idiot. Not hard to see that. [smilie=p:
Be careful, you appear to be capable of shooting yourself in the foot.
It won't be the guns fault. ;)

[fishhawk]

OK how fast and who wants the first point infraction here on this thread? I have not met my quota yet this month! In other words knock it off...

[DODGEM250]

What I'm saying is you are having a tantrum because you borrow somebodies mold, then damn the mold Yes buddy, I damned the mold, not the company, read the thread... and company that makes it, including the handles.

Quite obviously others don't have the troubles you are. True this is, otherwise I would not be posting wonder if it's me or the mold... read the thread

Nor do they continue to carry on with nonsense like you do. whatever that means, ok, you win.

So take a look in the mirror, there is the problem with the mold.

If you knew sh!t from Sh!nola, you would have worked with it, and around it. I tried everything ding dong... read the thread.

You might even have called the guy you borrowed it from.
But Noooo....
Do you even know what carp you were dumping into it? Or was it just a conglomeration of carp you gathered up? No carp harmed in this casting, just a few lead ingots and some goldfish.

You are an idiot. Not hard to see that. [smilie=p: Thank You ?
Be careful, you appear to be capable of shooting yourself in the foot. It won't be the guns fault. no sir, it won't be the guns fault because according to your math it will be the stocks fault. After all the your Lee handles make your Lyman molds pour better, correct ? ;)

Now. Where were we.

[DODGEM250]

OK how fast and who wants the first point infraction here on this thread? I have not met my quota yet this month! In other words knock it off...

I do not wish for any infractions to be given to any of them. I hold no grudges against their attacks. I'm sorry if they jump to assumptions and want to make unprovoked attacks, but, I won't stand by and let them have free shots when they are wrong. It's all good on my end. I am walking away before the fire gets too hot.

Again, I appreciate the intelligent replies from those of you who provided them.

[fishhawk]

They know the rules and if they chose to ignore them they know the consequences. And I will give infractions if the attacks continue. steve k

[cbrick]

The single most common cause of rounded bases is a sprue plate that is too cool. ( my next option would be to have the sprue melting...)

Stop inspecting your bullets as you cast, ( I'm not. The round bases are rather obvious when they drop.) the sprue is cooling off fast because it has far less mass to hold heat than the mold blocks.

The next would be incomplete pour (hardly the case here) to allow the base to fill out properly. Kill two birds at one time and pour an extra large sprue puddle, ( yeah, did that too. ) it will add heat to the sprue plate and give the bullet base alloy to draw from. Keep the mold closed (including the sprue plate) and full of alloy as much as possible. Cast faster. ( been there.)

Reading your posts in this thread it seems that you have made up your mind, this mold is junk and nothing is going to change your mind. Perhaps you are simply trying talk yourself into buying a new mold.

Your so far off that assumption it's sad. The reason I borrowed the mold was so I didn't have to fork out for a new one. I've tried everything and no I have not only cast with this mold. The bullets from the .44 blocks came out great. I changed to the 38 blocks and nothing made a good bullet. It's the blocks, not me or my processes. It's almost like the sprue is creating an air bubble so the base does not fill in.

Rick

I have but one regret . . . I wasted my time & efforts in an honest attempt to help someone, for my effort you get snotty with me.

Shame when an effort to help someone is a complete waste of time. That's ok, many that read these threads truly appreciate the suggestions & offers of help offered here. Some it seems do not.

Rick

[MT Gianni]

This I understand as well, but, these are steel blocks. Not sure where the iron came from you're referring to.

Lyman molds are iron not steel.

[DODGEM250]

Lyman molds are iron not steel.

On these two blocks that I have here, the .38 and .44, the mold blocks are steel. The handles are in fact made of cast iron.

On the .38 mold the number is 358156 - 468
On the .44 mold the number is 429244 - 95C

I have no idea what the last three digits refer to. Date ? Production number?

The description from Midway even states "steel" in the Lyman description as well. HERE (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/710069/lyman-2-cavity-bullet-mold-429244-44-special-44-remington-magnum-430-diameter-255-grain-semi-wadcutter-gas-check)

Lyman

Lyman 2-Cavity Bullet Molds are made from solid leaded-steel and machined to an exact and smooth super fine finish. The molds are then heat treated (that is why they are blue in color) and feature hardened steel alignment pins to provide many years of bullet casting service. Sprue plates are made from solid steel, ground flat and held tightly in place with tempered steel spring washers and screws. In addition, break-in is often half the time required for iron molds. Mold handles are not included.

Technical Information:

Material: Machined Leaded Steel Mold Blocks
Cavities: 2-Cavity
Features: Steel Sprue Plate
Common Sizer Die Diameter: .429"
Notes:
# Hardwood Handles are not included and must be purchased separately. For 1 or 2-Cavity molds please order MidwayUSA product # 698-819, for 4-Cavity molds please order MidwayUSA product # 290-391.
# Weight given are Lyman's weights with suggested allow; actual weight may vary due to alloy mixture used.


Technical Information:

Material: Machined Leaded Steel Mold Blocks
Cavities: 2-Cavity
Features: Steel Sprue Plate
Common Sizer Die Diameter: .358"
Notes:
# Hardwood Handles are not included and must be purchased separately. For 1 or 2-Cavity molds please order MidwayUSA product # 698-819, for 4-Cavity molds please order MidwayUSA product # 290-391.
# Weight given are Lyman's weights with suggested allow; actual weight may vary due to alloy mixture used.

[462]

At one time, Lyman moulds were made of iron, using the Meehanite process. Don't know if that's true of today's moulds. Because of that, it's almost a given that the moulds are iron, not steel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meehanite

[Bret4207]

M250, the older Lyman blocks were made of what they referred to as Meehanite Iron. Maybe the brand new ones are steel and that's part of the current Lyman quality process.

Has the owner of that mould had similar problems as you have? If so there may well be a venting issue or other issue with the mould. It may well be worth your time and a couple bucks to take CBRick up on his very generous offer and have him "finish" the mould. There are very few moulds out there that can't be made to cast a usable boolit. I'd hate to see anyone miss out on using one of the finest 38/357 designs ever made because of a cranky mould.

[DODGEM250]

M250, the older Lyman blocks were made of what they referred to as Meehanite Iron. Maybe the brand new ones are steel and that's part of the current Lyman quality process. Yep, that's what was disclosed in the post above. But, this mold is old and it is steel.

Has the owner of that mould had similar problems as you have? If so there may well be a venting issue or other issue with the mould. It may well be worth your time and a couple bucks to take CBRick up on his very generous offer and have him "finish" the mould. There are very few moulds out there that can't be made to cast a usable boolit. I'd hate to see anyone miss out on using one of the finest 38/357 designs ever made because of a cranky mould.

I have not had a chance to speak with my neighbor on the issue. He is in Florida this week, this is why I came here looking for some leads to the issue. I do like the bullet design very much, but, it's sort of useless when every attempt presents a mostly useless bullet.

One thing I did think of this morning was, this is GC base mould. Is it possible the GC design is causing the issue with the rounded bases on this little bullet ?

[462]

"Is it possible the GC design is causing the issue with the rounded bases on this little bullet ?"

No, the bases should be square.

[Bret4207]

I have not had a chance to speak with my neighbor on the issue. He is in Florida this week, this is why I came here looking for some leads to the issue. I do like the bullet design very much, but, it's sort of useless when every attempt presents a mostly useless bullet.

One thing I did think of this morning was, this is GC base mould. Is it possible the GC design is causing the issue with the rounded bases on this little bullet ?

Look, I know it looks like steel and I understand that you think it's steel and I also know the difference between steel and iron is just a little change in carbon, manganese, etc. But for your own sake on this forum, ya gotta trust me when I tell you that the older Lymans are iron. Not cast iron, not iron like their handles (which are cast steel BTW), but a special type of iron that Lyman called "Meehanite iron". Yes, finishes up just like "steel". It was chosen for it's easy machining and heat handling qualities. You can read all about it in the older Lyman books. That's why we call then "iron moulds", because they ARE iron. If you want to argue a point there are tons of them, but this one you'll lose on.

[BossHoss]

I have not seen a problem that could not be solved here.

That mold is proving to be a problem for you.

Time to let someone else have at it, and see what they experience.

Every mold is different, that seems to be a common find. And that certainly is true of all my molds. THey each have a personality. Some like a straight pour, somelike a bounce (of the sprue hole) pour, etc.

Good Luck. I cast a whole bunch of these with a 4 cav last night, took a while to find a goove....but most were good. That's the way it goes.

[DODGEM250]

Look, I know it looks like steel and I understand that you think it's steel and I also know the difference between steel and iron is just a little change in carbon, manganese, etc. But for your own sake on this forum, ya gotta trust me when I tell you that the older Lymans are iron. Not cast iron, not iron like their handles (which are cast steel BTW), but a special type of iron that Lyman called "Meehanite iron". Yes, finishes up just like "steel". It was chosen for it's easy machining and heat handling qualities. You can read all about it in the older Lyman books. That's why we call then "iron moulds", because they ARE iron. If you want to argue a point there are tons of them, but this one you'll lose on.

Ok, I will take your word for it from your experience with Lyman mold, but, my neighbor also made the comment that his molds were steel. We were having a discussion about my new Lee aluminum molds I just got, and I asked him if he by chance had a 38 / 357 mold and he fired back with something like "Yes, but, my molds are steel not aluminum" so, I have assume to the man of 73 years knows his sh.tuff, but, then again age is not a requirement for misunderstanding items you purchase... hell maybe he doesn't realize I have not a clue about that. However, this is not my mold, and I'm not going to ship another mans tool to another man.

[DODGEM250]

"Is it possible the GC design is causing the issue with the rounded bases on this little bullet ?"

No, the bases should be square.


Well, I figured I'd throw that out there too. I feel maybe the design or the mold might be fighting back some how. I am planning to go back out to the wood shop this evening and cast up some more with the .44 mold and then I'm going to play with this .38 mold some more. It's not mine, I can't own it, but, I just don't understand what the issue is. I'd like to find a nice design like this lyman in a 2 cavity mold though but without the GC base. Maybe a tumble lube mold.

[bosterr]

I gave up on Lyman molds a long time ago. I owned a 2 cavity 358156 and tried just about everything to get it to work right. Made a lot of junk, but had to shoot them anyway. I switched to Saeco molds. I run 3 4 cavity molds at a time, keeps me moving and no overheating issues.

[DODGEM250]

I think I have solved the issue on this Lyman mould going on a lead from another forum. My neighbor stopped by yesterday when he got in from Florida and asked how I was doing.

My first question to him was about this mold and I asked him if he ever had any issue with it, and he laughed and said, "Yes, it's a real stubborn SOB" Point is, I'm glad it was not just me having problems with this mold.

I asked him how long he's had it and he replied, "I bought it new back in the late 70's" This answers a few questions as well.

I then asked him if I could try something with his mold to make this thing drop a decent bullet and he said, "Sure" I told him if I screw it up then I will replace the part. So, I reached for my drill press and a counter sink bit and made a quick pass on the sprue plate hole to open it a bit, filed the sprue lightly, poured some lead in this thing a few times to test the mold and wouldn't you know it... I make the hole a hair bigger and this Bamalam of a mold starts producing the best bullets either of us have seen from it. We both were simply amazed.

Instead of rounded bases I now have about 400 Nice Boolits (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=1550094#post1550094) !

[Bret4207]

Glad you got it working. Your language is in violation of the TOS and rules. This is a family site, not a locker room. No offense intended, but we need to uphold the high standards here.

[DODGEM250]

Glad you got it working. Your language is in violation of the TOS and rules. This is a family site, not a locker room. No offense intended, but we need to uphold the high standards here.


What'd I do ? Nevermind Bret, I think I found the issue and I fixed it. Maybe add that one to the banned word list in the admin control panel.

[Bret4207]

Thank you very much for changing it. I'm as filthy mouthed as anyone one, but not here. That's one of the best things about this site- character and dignity.

[Mr.skrimps]

I know this is a dead thread but for anyone reading this- don’t just judge by your first cast session. Each mold does have a personality and preference. It takes at least till the second session to figure them out, sometimes it takes a few or more. Most molds will drop you some
Solid stuff.

[gnappi]

I happen to like zombie threads, and you're right a single session with a mold is not enough.

[thompsonm1a1]

I have used lyman molds for many years with no problems. get the mold up to temp and cast, the first 10 or so are bad but once the mold heats up good the bullets come out very uniform. they do get very hot but I let them cool down for a few minutes and cast again with no issues. I find that lee molds expand too much making the bullets hard to size but they do make nice ml molds. some of the lyman molds have trouble dropping the bullets out because of the style of the bullet and they stick in sometimes but a gentle tap with the wood stick they fall out.

[Conditor22]

You can get most molds to work with a little/a lot of TLC

Often just a good cleaning will get the job done,
Make sure the sprue pivot screw stays lubed, top of mold and bottom of the sprue plate, AND don't forget the alignment pins.
Do this at least once or twice a pot full.
some like a little smoke /carbon
some you just have to rub a piece of hardwood over the cavities to remove some burs
many the sprue plate is TOO TIGHT loosen it up
a few you need to polish the cavities to get them running nice
or lightly break (remove a little material on the upper inner edge of each mold half so they can vent better (JUST A LITTLE, BARELY INCREASING THE "LINE SIZE' --- YOU CAN'T PUT THE MATERIAL BACK IF you do mess up you can take a couple of thou off the top of the mold.

[farmbif]

ive got one that says ideal 156 on it and it casts beautiful bullets each and every time it's used. hey, it kind of sounds like you only like casting if everything is perfect. the 35 cal 156 bullet is very common, I'm sure there has to be commercial casters you can buy them from.
ive always accepted part of the casting hobby as making the tools work no matter what they are to make consistent reloads that will shoot well.
sometimes it takes some trial and errors to get certain molds or pots or tools to work well.
if you want some real short handles that can get real hot try the old time style brass bullet molds for cap and ball guns.