New To Using a Lubrisizer

[Bigscot]

I recently bought a Lyman 450 from another member here and was wondering if anyone had any tips for it's use as I have never even seen a lubrisizer in use.

I currently pan lube with FWFL and tumble lube w/LLA.

Are there any tricks to using FWFL? Does it need to be made any particular or different way? (thinner, thicker, harder, softer, warmer, cooler etc) I assume from reading here, since it is not in stick it can be heated and poured in the luber.

Thanks for any info.

Bigscot

[Dale53]

Bigscot;
Lyman may have a manual for the 450 on their web site. The 4500 is quite similar and is their current offering.

I don't use FWFL, so I have no experience to offer you on that. Someone WILL chime in on that, I am sure. Just be patient...:-D

Dale53

[Maven]

Bigscot, You asked:

Are there any tricks to using FWFL? Does it need to be made any particular or different way? (thinner, thicker, harder, softer, warmer, cooler etc) I assume from reading here, since it is not in stick it can be heated and poured in the luber.

You may find that the original recipe for Felix Lube results in a slightly hard lube, i.e., one that needs a bit of heat initially to get it to flow. As my basement is ~53-56 deg. F at this time of year, I add several tablespoons of Vaseline/petrolatum (cheapest brand is perfectly good) to the molten mixture to soften it. If you preheat the #450's chamber with a hair dryer, you can pour the hot FWFL in it without fear of cracking the casting. As to the #450, the only tips that come to mind are to crank the wrench (to get the lube to flow) in small increments and keep pressure on it (the wrench) when the CB is at the bottom of the stroke. This insures better filling of the lube grooves and less lube on the bullet base. Also, reverse the wrench and give it ~6 full turns to relieve pressure on the lube at the end of a sizing & lubing session.

[Buckshot]

............You guys don't mind me, I'm just following Maven around :-)

..............Buckshot

[1hole]

I recently bought a Lyman 450 from another member here and was wondering if anyone had any tips Bigscot

Tips:

1. Install the proper top punch to prevent damage to the bullet's nose. There is a small allen head set-screw on the right upper side of the body casting to hold the top punch in place.

2. Install a sizer die & center punch (H&I dies) either the same or .001" larger than the nominal diameter for the cartridge. Press the die body fully into the lower base and secure it with the wide, thin "nut" (being careful not to cross those fine threads!) and use a wrench to LIGHTLY snug it down.

3. Adjust the "screw" thing below the size die so it allows you to pull down on the handle and push a bullet onto the inner punch enough to let the bullet just fully enter the die. Do not allow the bullet to go so far the ogive gets below the upper lube hole or you will get lube all over the nose.

4. Fill the lube cavity by lifting off the steel cap from the top, the black one the inner threaded rod goes thru. Use the wrench to screw up the inner lube pressure cap and remove it. If you are using a formed lube-tube, just remove the wrap and slid it into the cavity. Then replace the threaded pressure cap and screw it down until it contacts the lube. Replace the top cap and wrench on the rod and you are ready to go. (If you are using unformed lube, as I do, melt the lube in a pot of water and pour the hot liquid into the cavity until it's about 1 1/2" from being totally full.)

5. After adjusting and filling the tool, put a bullet in place, base down, and press it fully into the size die. Then, while holding a bit of pressure on the handle with the right hand, use the left hand to work the lube-injection wrench and force lube into the grooves. Push the handle up to eject the bullet and check for proper filling of the grooves. If it's ok, install the next bullet!

NOTE: If you don't hold pressure down on the handle while lubing you will likely get a thick wad of lube under the bullet's base. If/when you get that blob, hold down harder next time and don't put so much pressure on the lube wrench. It's a learned thing!

Other tips:

6. Can't help with your lube, I no longer use any lube but the NRA Allox 50/50 formula. It is soft enough to flow without a heater, it gives excellant accuracy and protects from leading better than anything else I know of. You only need lube in about 80-90% of the groove rings to do the job.

7. Store your lubed bullets in a very clean box or bag to prevent picking up grit to errode your bore.

8. Chamfer case mouths to reduce shaving while seating your nice soft bullets.

9. Use a Lyman "M" expander die before seating the bullets to prevent damaging the heels. Expand mouths far enough to allow a bullet to fully start into the case mouth BEFORE you raise it into the seater die.

10. Get a Lyman's "Cast Bullet Manual", and the "Lyman Pistol and Revolver Handbook" too, if that is what you're loading for. And also get a copy of the NRA's "Cast Bullets" book by E.H. Harrison if you can find one.

Good luck.

[redbear705]

I recently bought a Lyman 450 from another member here and was wondering if anyone had any tips for it's use as I have never even seen a lubrisizer in use.

I currently pan lube with FWFL and tumble lube w/LLA.

Are there any tricks to using FWFL? Does it need to be made any particular or different way? (thinner, thicker, harder, softer, warmer, cooler etc) I assume from reading here, since it is not in stick it can be heated and poured in the luber.

Thanks for any info.

Bigscot


BigScot....try here... http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/index.htm

EDIT.....
Darn it...this link gets you to lyman but not to the instuctions....you have to go to casting at the top of page and scan down to the 4500 sizer then right below that are the instruction tab.....the info for the 450's is below the 4500's......

This and the above instructions will get ya going!

JR

[monadnock#5]

If after running a boolit into the size die, and applying pressure to the lube reservoir, you should find that there is no lube in the grooves, adjust your boolit up or down so that the driving bands aren't blocking the lube ports.

Lyman states in their literature that incomplete fill out in the grooves is perfectly normal, and that if you don't like it, to raise the boolit, turn it 90°, lower it and lube it again. Now with enough heat and pressure you can lube 100% in one shot, but not without making a mess. So try it both ways and then decide for yourself which is best for you.

I've tried a bunch of different lubes, but haven't settled on which one I like the best. The only one that I have crossed off my list so far is the Lyman 50/50. It only flows well in the heat of summer. If any extra heat is needed (about 9 months of the year), it goes everywhere, fast.

Ken

[Norton]

I know Bigscot asked the question, but I needed that practical info myself. I am new to lubesizers also and an in a learning curb right now with my LAM II.
Thanks

[32 20 Mike]

Does any one have an idea to shim Lyman blt sizing dies to work in a Star lube machine? Thanks,32-20 Mike

[44man]

I just take my Felix lube and cut it into strips with a knife, then stuff the strips into the sizer with a dowel. It works just fine.

[32 20 Mike]

I have used # 7 1/2 size shot to plug sizer lube groves to "adjust" the lube flow. It keeps excess lube from over shooting blts lube groves when you are out of adjustment debth. 32-20 Mike

[AnthonyB]

Mike, that is an excellent idea! I don't think a shim would work, but an insert fitted to the Star and bored out for Lyman dies to be dropped into it might work. It would make blocking holes to control lube flow more difficult, though.

Buckshot, are you reading this one? Whatcha think?
Tony

[UweJ]

If the lube grooves don´t fill out completely the first time I just push it into the die again.The pressure should be enough to fill it the second time around.
Uwe

[Buckshot]

Mike, that is an excellent idea! I don't think a shim would work, but an insert fitted to the Star and bored out for Lyman dies to be dropped into it might work. It would make blocking holes to control lube flow more difficult, though.

Buckshot, are you reading this one? Whatcha think?
Tony

.............The whole rigamarol of Star dies and their lube hole placement gives me gas. I make the things (thankfully not too many) and I tell folks they have to specify where they want the holes :-). That usually results in a 'non-order', Ha!

The Star die has a major diameter of .750" forming a shoulder at either end, with a relief OD of .670" between them for lube flow.

A Lyman/RCBS die has a body OD of .700" to .702". Call it .700" and you only have .025" between the die and the machine's die bore, and that's with no clearance. Since the RCBS/Lyman die has no relief in the center how much room ya got for lube? I'm not familiar enough with the Star machine to know. They'd be some pretty skinny tubular shims.

Maybe better might be to cut grooves for 'O' rings in the RCBS/Lyman dies, but you'd also have to figure out how to retain the dies in the machine (regardless how you get them to fit). The Star die has a .875" flange which I assume holds it against the push of the pushrod. The RCBS/Lyman only has a .720" ring above the 'O' ring groove. It'd push right through the Star's die bore.

............Buckshot